Range Report seating depth
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Re: seating depth
Thanks for the reply.Let me clarify that the cutting of the neck is used to apparently allow for the bullet to be slightly pushed into the neck of the unloaded,deprimed sized case.Then that round is pushed gently into the chamber and the bolt closed.The round is extracted by the cycling of the bolt.The bullet is now seated just touching the lands.I just have read the proceedure on accurate shooter.I have never heard nor have done seating this way.
Thanks for the reply.Let me clarify that the cutting of the neck is used to apparently allow for the bullet to be slightly pushed into the neck of the unloaded,deprimed sized case.Then that round is pushed gently into the chamber and the bolt closed.The round is extracted by the cycling of the bolt.The bullet is now seated just touching the lands.I just have read the proceedure on accurate shooter.I have never heard nor have done seating this way.
Re: seating depth
stoney point...i guess now hornady make a trinket that can precisely figure at what length to load to jam the lands
stoney point...i guess now hornady make a trinket that can precisely figure at what length to load to jam the lands
Re: seating depth
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: roaddog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the reply.Let me clarify that the cutting of the neck is used to apparently allow for the bullet to be slightly pushed into the neck of the unloaded,deprimed sized case.Then that round is pushed gently into the chamber and the bolt closed.The round is extracted by the cycling of the bolt.The bullet is now seated just touching the lands.I just have read the proceedure on accurate shooter.I have never heard nor have done seating this way. </div></div>
I thought that was the case, but couldn't quite get it. Getting old is a bitch. Anyway, been there done that. it's difficult to keep the bullet where you want when you try to extract it. I would strongly recommend the Stony Point OAl gauge, or Hornady OAL gauge as Boltripper recommended. It's about $30 dollars but worth it. Now getting the modified case is another story. I think they are over priced. If you want to invest, and do it yourself modified cases, I would recommend using the tap size 5/16" x36. Now, you are not going to find them in your garden variety Lowe's or Home Depot. I suggest the Google-foo to do your search. I have used it for my 338 LM case and 50 BMG. Also, drilling a small case such as the 223 may be a bit difficult, but can be done. To do that, take a spent case and decap it, don't resize it. drill it and tap it. With a little work, the tap itself pays for its cost.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: roaddog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the reply.Let me clarify that the cutting of the neck is used to apparently allow for the bullet to be slightly pushed into the neck of the unloaded,deprimed sized case.Then that round is pushed gently into the chamber and the bolt closed.The round is extracted by the cycling of the bolt.The bullet is now seated just touching the lands.I just have read the proceedure on accurate shooter.I have never heard nor have done seating this way. </div></div>
I thought that was the case, but couldn't quite get it. Getting old is a bitch. Anyway, been there done that. it's difficult to keep the bullet where you want when you try to extract it. I would strongly recommend the Stony Point OAl gauge, or Hornady OAL gauge as Boltripper recommended. It's about $30 dollars but worth it. Now getting the modified case is another story. I think they are over priced. If you want to invest, and do it yourself modified cases, I would recommend using the tap size 5/16" x36. Now, you are not going to find them in your garden variety Lowe's or Home Depot. I suggest the Google-foo to do your search. I have used it for my 338 LM case and 50 BMG. Also, drilling a small case such as the 223 may be a bit difficult, but can be done. To do that, take a spent case and decap it, don't resize it. drill it and tap it. With a little work, the tap itself pays for its cost.
Re: seating depth
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">stoney point...i guess now hornady make a trinket that can precisely figure at what length to load to jam the lands </div></div>
What he said.
I have one and it's EZ as pie.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">stoney point...i guess now hornady make a trinket that can precisely figure at what length to load to jam the lands </div></div>
What he said.
I have one and it's EZ as pie.
Re: seating depth
The tool is great but not neccessary. You can also use a neck die like a Lee collet and barely size the neck so the bullet can move up and down in the case. Barely seat the bullet in the cartridge, Chamber the cartridge, release the bolt while holding your finger or something of that nature to hold the case from ejecting from your chamber. This will prevent the bullet from being knocked loose. This is not a one time and your done process...it will take a few times with measurements to make sure its touching the rifleings. From that measurement you can back it off in your die as far as you want from the lands. There are actually many ways to do this without spending $30 on a tool you will you use maybe a handfull of times.
Oh and yes the cutting technique works too but this way you can save your brass.
The tool is great but not neccessary. You can also use a neck die like a Lee collet and barely size the neck so the bullet can move up and down in the case. Barely seat the bullet in the cartridge, Chamber the cartridge, release the bolt while holding your finger or something of that nature to hold the case from ejecting from your chamber. This will prevent the bullet from being knocked loose. This is not a one time and your done process...it will take a few times with measurements to make sure its touching the rifleings. From that measurement you can back it off in your die as far as you want from the lands. There are actually many ways to do this without spending $30 on a tool you will you use maybe a handfull of times.
Oh and yes the cutting technique works too but this way you can save your brass.
Re: seating depth
Just seat a bullet long and chamber it. If it's too long, seat it deeper until it just touches. Pretty easy, actually.
Just seat a bullet long and chamber it. If it's too long, seat it deeper until it just touches. Pretty easy, actually.
Re: seating depth
Why go to all that trouble when the Hornady tool is so inexpensive?
I've found that using the bolt to seat a bullet, then retracting it gives you bad data. If you have a tight neck tension, you don't know how far into the lands it jammed, if it's too loose, the bullet might pull out a little when you eject.
Trust me, I've tried it all...
Why go to all that trouble when the Hornady tool is so inexpensive?
I've found that using the bolt to seat a bullet, then retracting it gives you bad data. If you have a tight neck tension, you don't know how far into the lands it jammed, if it's too loose, the bullet might pull out a little when you eject.
Trust me, I've tried it all...
Re: seating depth
Personally I dont seat my bullets to the lands anyway. If my rifle shoots 1/4 inch groups at maglength whats the purpose? Im a tactical shooter/hunter not a benchrest shooter. Again tryin to save you some coin but if you want to buy a tool you will use maybe a handfull of times and then let sit and collect dust go right ahead.
Personally I dont seat my bullets to the lands anyway. If my rifle shoots 1/4 inch groups at maglength whats the purpose? Im a tactical shooter/hunter not a benchrest shooter. Again tryin to save you some coin but if you want to buy a tool you will use maybe a handfull of times and then let sit and collect dust go right ahead.
