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Gunsmithing Securing buffer tube to Howa HCR chassis

old_gregg

Private
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2018
10
0
Hello all,

Im new here, and this is my first post. I have a quick question about buffer tube/stock mounting on aluminum chassis rifles. I recently acquired my first precision rifle, a Howa HCR (got a killer deal btw) and i decided to have the chassis cerakoted. Not wanting to shell out the extra dough to pay the applicator for disassembly, i took the rifle apart myself and sent the chassis in. Now here is my question (when i go to reassemble the parts) how do i firmly secure the buffer tube to the chassis? When i built my AR-15, i read that you always stake the castle nut in place after torquing it down. The chassis has no steel plate like an AR to do this. Would you recommend loctite? Or just torque it down to spec? It seems from the factory to have just been torqued, but i really dont want it to come lose when i least expect it. Thanks.
 
Okay, so do you put it on the buffer tube, the castle nut, or both? I doubt i would ever take it off again (unless it somehow got damaged) but i do want to be able to remove it if i have to.
 
Just tighten it to spec and be done. Don’t forget to tighten the set screw in the bottom of the chassis into the slot on the buffer tube.
 
There is no set screw for the buffer tube. I wondered that too, as AR backplates have that lug to match the keyway on the buffer tube. But this chassis does not have one.
 
There is no set screw for the buffer tube. I wondered that too, as AR backplates have that lug to match the keyway on the buffer tube. But this chassis does not have one.

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Turn the rifle over and look at the bottom. I have two HCR Accurate chassis and they are both the same.
 
Well i guess i missed that during disassembly. I cant look now because the chassis is out for cerakoting. Thanks for the heads up. The set screw on mine must not have been tight from the factory because the buffer tube screwed out easily after i loosened the castle nut. If it had been tight, i would have either found it and removed it, or stripped out my buffer tube lol.
 
No worries mine was pretty loose too. Good luck with your Howa I sure like mine going to use them in local PRS matches this year.
 
Thanks. I already own a different Howa rifle and love it. I hope to use this one for some medium range deer hunting and casual range time.
 
I had one of those and it comes with the mil-spec buffer tube. I tried a commercial tube and liked it much better due to the tighter fit to the butt stock.

That buffer tube will eventually twist loose even with torquing it down with an AR wrench - at least mine did.

I did not use loctite though. I did try using teflon tape like used on water lines etc. which did work to hold it. You could also use black electrical tape.

One other thing - do you notice how nose heavy that rifle is? I took the buffer tube and placed it hollow side up inside of a canister of water. I melted lead in a pot and filled the tube with the hot lead. It cooled, and then I put 5 ton epoxy over the end to hold it in place. The lead would slide out of the tube. It was a very tight fit, but could come out so I epoxied it into place. Balanced the rifle perfectly where the pivot point was just under the action.

 
I dont really want to add any more weight (already going to be probably 15lbs with optics and accessories) by putting lead in the buffer tube. Did/do you have the Howa HCR with the Accurate-Mag chassis? Because they come with a Luth-AR stock, which has a set screw to tighten down so it doesnt rattle on the buffer tube like other stocks.
 
Use loctite - torque the nut to spec. Note that spec on that nut is higher than most people think (35 ft-lbs). ft-lbs. not in-lbs.
 
Just tighten it to spec and be done. Don’t forget to tighten the set screw in the bottom of the chassis into the slot on the buffer tube.
(Not to hijack and I hope I'm using the forum correctly as this is my first post.)
I recently acquired all pieces needed to assemble an HCR my self. As this is my first chassis type rifle I was wondering if you simply screw the buffer tube all the way in to chassis then unscrew to line up the bottom set screw in to groove, or is there a certain depth or number of threads to aim for?