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Gunsmithing Separated case stuck in AX.

LRJammer

LRJammer

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 3, 2011
416
9
Southwest US
I had a case head separation on my AI AX yesterday (260). Tried getting it to push out with a brush but I couldnt get that lucky. Plugged the inside of the case up and ran some Kroil down from the muzzle end and let it sit overnite. This morning I wrapped a patch around a nylon 30 cal bore brush and worked it down (tight) in an attempt to push the case out. Still no luck.

Anybody have any experience extracting a stubborn case?
 
I saw an interesting youtube video by midway that uses cerrosafe to remove a broken shell. Otherwise maybe try a broken shell extractor. Also, since it is an ai, i assume you have removed the barrel for easier access?
 
All of the extractors that I have seen were just for a torn out rim. The entire case head is separated on mine. I dont yet have an action wrench for mine but one may be in the works. I may just take it to my smith. I do a lot of my own work on my other rifles but I am leery of doing something unconventional on this one. Too much money invested in it to screw up the barrel with only 400 rounds down the tube!
 
In Iraq i had an AK lock up on me. Same thing. Poofed case.

get a 338 bore brush and roll it in some whipped up jb quick. Then stuff the brush in the case. Let her sit for 5 minutes.

quick pop and it just might come out.

i used Haji 5 minute resin in my case.

c.
 
I loaded a 300WM case one too many times,(have had others that were borderline seperation...) and experienced case head separation. I tried brushes, Kroil etc. My gunsmith poured cerrosafe into the case and slightly into barrel and tapped it out. Both pieces still sit on top of the gunsafe as a reminder to not use cases to the point of failure ;) (I should stick them in a picture frame and put it above the loading bench). Seems like I tried the freezer too to no avail.

OP, Hope you're able to pop it out with one of the suggested methods.
 
Last edited:
Get some of the epoxy putty. The kind that you knead together in your fingers. Push a ball of it into the stuck case and wait for it to set (about 10 minutes). Then pop it out with a cleaning rod inserted from the muzzle.
 
Usually flash cooling/freezing of the case works great. This can be done with Co2 or Freon with a hose inserted into the chamber. Different expansion rates between the barrel and the case releases the grip and the case taps out with the conventional cleaning rod trick.
 
I've had good luck with a bore snake from the muzzle. Drop lead through muzzle, pull so the wide part of snake is almost at chamber then hit the case with canned air and yank the snake.
 
I carry a 1/2" round rat tail file. The body is taped up to protect the action. Run the file into the case, give it a twist to engage the case walls. I grab the file in front of the handle with pliers then tap on the pliers with a hammer, rock or even the bolt. The case pops right out. You will need to have the chamber polished as I have yet to see one that didn't etch the chamber walls and later cause extraction issues. The file should be standard equipment at all ranges and matches.
 
Took longer to post this thread than it would be for your fav smith to fix it. Unscrew the barrel, insert tool of choice into casing, remove casing, reinstall barrel. 1/2 hour tops including coffee break
 
Simple problem to solve. I made a "stuck case removal tool" using a 10mm "easy out" available at the hardware store. Put it on the end of a socket extension. Remove the bold, and from the rear, insert the easy out into the breach. Twist a could of times and pull out the round. A 10mm easy out fits a 260 or 308 case nicely. Takes about 30 seconds. I carry this with me to the range and competitions and have used it many times to solve this proble.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
After trying Dave Tooley's rat tail file method and still no luck, I have come to the conclusion that it is well and truly stuck. I am waiting on an action wrench and will remove the barrel and have my smith pour a Cerrosafe slug in and tap it out. Dave said and my smith agreed that after getting one this stuck out, the chamber is going to need to be polished to ensure smooth functioning again.

Thanks for your suggestions everyone.
 
As mentioned above twice.. A ruptured case extractor is all you need . You have a complete head seperation right ? I would hate to see what the chamber looks like now after jamming a rat tail file in there.
 
MAGUA said:
As mentioned above twice.. A ruptured case extractor is all you need . You have a complete head seperation right ? I would hate to see what the chamber looks like now after jamming a rat tail file in there.
Click to expand...

The file only went into the case itself. The remainder of the file body was taped to prevent contact with anything else. The chamber was not touched.
 
Not to mention, rupture case extractors don't always work. Especially if the owner doesn't realize they had a case head separation, and rammed another round into the chamber, slamming the bolt forward a few times, wondering why it wouldn't close. By the time you get it, a little gremlin f**ker might as well have just sat there with punch, and driven that case head into the fore end of the chamber, leaving nothing for the case extractor to grab onto. Don't ask how I know...

If a file doesn't work, then a chamber reamer is in order...carefully.
 
When the file trick didn't work I've used a tap to get more of a bite on the casing. Just be careful. Too much of a good thing can go south very quickly.
 
DAVETOOLEY said:
I carry a 1/2" round rat tail file. The body is taped up to protect the action. Run the file into the case, give it a twist to engage the case walls. I grab the file in front of the handle with pliers then tap on the pliers with a hammer, rock or even the bolt. The case pops right out. You will need to have the chamber polished as I have yet to see one that didn't etch the chamber walls and later cause extraction issues. The file should be standard equipment at all ranges and matches.
Click to expand...

This is good advice, I'm picking up a file soon.

Now I want to know if it was an AINA barrel...cause I'd blame the chamber job :) Just kidding, Dave!
 
I use a long wooden dowel or a brass rod. Close the bolt, carefully slide dowel down barrel, mark the rod at the end of the barrel. Remove. Place a small piece of TP into the barrel and tamp down. Continue to do this until the dowel sticks out the barrel the length of a normal case. Make sure to tamp tightly with each piece of TP. Then remove the bolt and tap sharply on the dowel. The case/TP should come right out. The most it's taken me is 3x.
 
Just a quick update. The 10mm EZ out worked like a charm. I have functioned rounds through the chamber and so far, everything looks good. I know the acid test will be when rounds are actually fired to see of there is any scuffing in the chamber.

I kind of have to smack myself for not thinking of that since I spent 12 years in the car business as a dealership technician in my previous line of work!
 
Went out this evening and fired 6 round and there was no extraction issues and no marking on the brass that one would expect to see if there was a rough spot in the chamber. May have just lucked out this time!
 
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