Shilen AR barrels?

lte82

Shooter
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  • Mar 12, 2013
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    Looking at building another upper for service rifle / across the course matches, and I saw that I can get a shilen barrel with a matched bolt for about $200 less than a Krieger with a matched bolt.

    Is there anyone with experience on the shilen barrels? Obviously Krieger is top of the line, but the wait is long and the prices are steep. Im currently shooting a WOA upper (Wilson blank) and it shoots great, but I want to get something a bit better, plus this barrel probably has about 2000 rounds through and will be relegated to practice only after another 1000 or 2.
     
    Rainier uses the Shilen blanks in their Ultra Match Barrels. I had really good luck with a .223 build; sub moa gun. I went for a 20" .308 and it shot like crap. Hopefully just had a lemon though. I have a 20" Lilja barrel that replaced the Rainier .308 Shilen/Ultra Match and I couldn't be happier. I would look into the Liljas if you haven't.
     
    Looking at building another upper for service rifle / across the course matches, and I saw that I can get a shilen barrel with a matched bolt for about $200 less than a Krieger with a matched bolt.

    Is there anyone with experience on the shilen barrels? Obviously Krieger is top of the line, but the wait is long and the prices are steep. Im currently shooting a WOA upper (Wilson blank) and it shoots great, but I want to get something a bit better, plus this barrel probably has about 2000 rounds through and will be relegated to practice only after another 1000 or 2.

    I have used krieger, Lothar Walter, Rock etc.. but I also have a couple of shilen barrels and had excellent results with both. They use good stock and have very nice bores for the money. Most of the problems I see with some sold as match barrels are not related to rifling or bore issues but rather how the barrel was cut/profiled and chambered. Folks who take the time to do it right it shows. Standard AR barrel profiles should be pretty safe if they come from a reputable barrel maker, not just the brand of the blank. Two recommendations I have is to skip the 1/2 thread in favor of a 5/8 and never get a carbine length porting. Both are design mistakes inherited from the M4's stupid design.
     
    I have used krieger, Lothar Walter, Rock etc.. but I also have a couple of shilen barrels and had excellent results with both. They use good stock and have very nice bores for the money. Most of the problems I see with some sold as match barrels are not related to rifling or bore issues but rather how the barrel was cut/profiled and chambered. Folks who take the time to do it right it shows. Standard AR barrel profiles should be pretty safe if they come from a reputable barrel maker, not just the brand of the blank. Two recommendations I have is to skip the 1/2 thread in favor of a 5/8 and never get a carbine length porting. Both are design mistakes inherited from the M4's stupid design.

    I have to agree with this assessment. If you get a Shilen blank and have someone who does top-notch barrel work for the AR, you will usually have a superb shooter. Let someone profile it off concentric, and chamber out of true, and it will be a waste. Might as well buy a beater chrome-lined pipe at that point.

    As to the history behind the military SCHV rifle thread pattern, that was dictated by the early lightweight barrels, and there was no way a larger pattern could be used with a .600" muzzle. The carbine-length porting for the 14.5" barrel actually has a good dwell time for that barrel length, and came way before the M4 when the Colt Model 653 became the next major Commando variant after the 11.5" XM177E2. None of this matters since the OP is getting a service rifle barrel (20" RLGS)

    I agree that a 5/8x24 will be better for accuracy, since there is more substantial mass at the muzzle, but service rifle shooters go without muzzle devices anyway.
     
    I have to agree with this assessment. If you get a Shilen blank and have someone who does top-notch barrel work for the AR, you will usually have a superb shooter. Let someone profile it off concentric, and chamber out of true, and it will be a waste. Might as well buy a beater chrome-lined pipe at that point.

    As to the history behind the military SCHV rifle thread pattern, that was dictated by the early lightweight barrels, and there was no way a larger pattern could be used with a .600" muzzle. The carbine-length porting for the 14.5" barrel actually has a good dwell time for that barrel length, and came way before the M4 when the Colt Model 653 became the next major Commando variant after the 11.5" XM177E2. None of this matters since the OP is getting a service rifle barrel (20" RLGS)

    I agree that a 5/8x24 will be better for accuracy, since there is more substantial mass at the muzzle, but service rifle shooters go without muzzle devices anyway.


    It is not only the issue with the dwell time but how hot a short AR group runs on DI systems. Bolts run on fire.
    I understand the limitations in some matches to postban barrels. But I am saying because preban National Match barrels are also sold with 1/2 threads that is a mistake.
     
    I have 3 shilen barrels and from my experience so far, all are submoa shooters. I've got 2 in 6.5x47 on some savage builds I did and one on my AR build. The AR build has been sub moa consistenly except for my last range trip. But after I got home I found my YHM hand guard was pretty loose and moving around. Since I was shooting from a bipod mounted to the handguard, that may be been the problem. I will try to post some pics of my AR groups if I can find them. For the money I don't think you will be upset.
     
    +1 on all of the above...very sound advice indeed!

    My experiences with Shilen tubes I have had done by quality/competent smiths over the years have been extremely positive, including a couple of different AR barrels and one recent SDM profile barrel based on a Shilen ratchet-rifled blank.
     
    Yea I've read good things about them too. Like you I was kinda weary and on the fence. But after this thread too I feel its a safe bet.
     
    Also... if you want to squeeze every single drop of accuracy potential make sure the matched bolt doesn't have too much play/tolerance greater than 4 or 5 thousands.
    I have seen up to 16 thous. that is great for military chambers to drag through the mud but it also produces inconsistent results and accuracy suffers.
    Also skip set screw or drilled gas blocks and go for a clamp system. Those provide the best seal and uniform pressure all around. ...assuming it is allowed by the rules in whatever tournaments you shoot at.