How are you guys sighting in your simrad, i have heard a few different ways and wanted to see what you guys that use one do. Also in your ballistics program are you using your scopes height over bore or the simrads?
Thanks,
Kurt
Thanks,
Kurt
Night Vision Sighting in a Simrad
- Thread starter kurtlaughton
- Start date
I would like to get a confirmation also for .
I probably doing it wrong, But I just put a 100 yard. POI Zero on the PVS9 witness to my scope . I not one for following the book, and I just use what works for what I am doing . But I do know there is a formal written factory recommended sight-in procedure .
But me, I Not doing longrange precision with my setup . and with using AR15 platform for night hunting . and all shots 200 yard and under with my shooting . And I just use the Reticule subtension as holdover for anything over 150 yard.
Here are 2 Pic's. right from the mil. issue manual .
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I probably doing it wrong, But I just put a 100 yard. POI Zero on the PVS9 witness to my scope . I not one for following the book, and I just use what works for what I am doing . But I do know there is a formal written factory recommended sight-in procedure .
But me, I Not doing longrange precision with my setup . and with using AR15 platform for night hunting . and all shots 200 yard and under with my shooting . And I just use the Reticule subtension as holdover for anything over 150 yard.
Here are 2 Pic's. right from the mil. issue manual .
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I zero rifle at 100yds normally. Then mount SIMRAD and measure distance between the centers of the two optics. For the gun I am zeroed on now it is 2.5 inches. I then aim normally at the center of the aiming point and adjust the simrad adjustment knobs until I am hitting 2.5 inches low. Then I am parallel zeroed with the two optics. I will always hit 2.5 inches low no matter what the distance. If this matters, I can hold up by this amount using the target as the reticle if hunting.
I have tested it several times on IPSC(2/3) steel at 500yds and it works fine hitting near the center of the target.
The manual says to dial up on your scope by the offset amount (after parallel zeroing). I don't do that for two reasons, one, I have four T3 reticle scopes and I don't dial them at all except when zeroing or shooting over 1,000 yds ... they are no dial scopes. Dialing them throws off the wind dot system. And two because I prefer the parallel zero, I think if you dial it you will be fine out to at least twice the distance you zeroed, but then will start to deviate after that (just like if you co-witness versus infinitely zero a laser).
I have tested it several times on IPSC(2/3) steel at 500yds and it works fine hitting near the center of the target.
The manual says to dial up on your scope by the offset amount (after parallel zeroing). I don't do that for two reasons, one, I have four T3 reticle scopes and I don't dial them at all except when zeroing or shooting over 1,000 yds ... they are no dial scopes. Dialing them throws off the wind dot system. And two because I prefer the parallel zero, I think if you dial it you will be fine out to at least twice the distance you zeroed, but then will start to deviate after that (just like if you co-witness versus infinitely zero a laser).
I have a 253 and a 203. I zero the day optics as normal. The 203 is on a K318i and needed a spacer on the spuhr in order to mount. I dial 1.1 MIL up on the day optic that runs the 203 and then made the needed adjustments on the simrad to make poi meet poa. From then on, I just dial the 1.1 MIL to the day optic when I mount the simrad and I use the reticle for all holds. For the 253 I use the same process but a .8 MIL adjustment to the day optic. For both rifle/simrad combos I have a second profile on the kestrel with the height over bore set from the center of simrad to center of bore. I've not had a chance to confirm it all on steel at distance but everything 600 and in I've pointed em at has died. I'm still learning all this night stuff but I've been given good advice this far from people on here.
I too do what the manual says, minus the part about dialing the day optic up so POA=POI @ zero distance. I use a KN203, so my added height over bore is 3.75."
1. Confirm zero of day optic @ desired zero distance (100 yd for most of my guns)
2. Add SIMRAD and boresight it to impact 3.75" below your point of aim. This is a parallel zero, so your dope at all distances would need an additional 3.75" (not MOA, a fixed number of inches) accounted for. Sounds complicated but it isn't. I rough calculate it in my head (100 yd, add ~4 MOA, 200 yd ~2 MOA, 400 yd ~1 MOA, split the difference for in between distances, etc).
3. If possible, confirm windage is good further out.
4. Shoot stuff at night.
Don't mess with the height over bore in your ballistic app unless you are doing the final step of dialing the SIMRAD offset out of your day scope. Doing that definitely works well too, but I don't like what it does to my trajectory (well above zero for quite a distance).
1. Confirm zero of day optic @ desired zero distance (100 yd for most of my guns)
2. Add SIMRAD and boresight it to impact 3.75" below your point of aim. This is a parallel zero, so your dope at all distances would need an additional 3.75" (not MOA, a fixed number of inches) accounted for. Sounds complicated but it isn't. I rough calculate it in my head (100 yd, add ~4 MOA, 200 yd ~2 MOA, 400 yd ~1 MOA, split the difference for in between distances, etc).
3. If possible, confirm windage is good further out.
4. Shoot stuff at night.
Don't mess with the height over bore in your ballistic app unless you are doing the final step of dialing the SIMRAD offset out of your day scope. Doing that definitely works well too, but I don't like what it does to my trajectory (well above zero for quite a distance).
on a 203 simply dial 1 mil up or .8 on 253 on your day optic after you zero it the way the manual says. I have thousands of rounds down range on simrads. this way works and is super effective. you have a true 100yd zero rifle that has a center hold to whatever your day dope is at 300yd. most calibers this gets you to somewhere around 300yd. point and click. after that simply start dialing your normal dope and add .2 to around 600yd. beyond 600 to 1k you can pretty much run your normal dope as the mechanical offset holds less value the further out you go.
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