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Gunsmithing Sneak Peak at LongRifles Inc LH Tikka T3 Build "more pics"

Jeff in TX

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 5, 2004
315
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McKinney, TX
Chad called me today to let me know my Tikka T3 build was almost ready and would ship early next week. He also sent me a few photos to tease me that I thought I'd share

The build consisted of facing off the small transition on the front of the receiver
Blue printed and trued the bolt and action
Designed, cut and pinned a custom Remington style recoil lug that matches the outer contour of the T3 receiver
Installed a 24" 1:8 SS #3 Brux barrel for .243 win - threaded for my muzzle break/QD suppressor adapter
Pillar bedded into a LH McMillan Sako hunter stock with LongRifles Inc prairie sage digital camo pattern
Black Ceracoked the barreled action

The crown


The bedding, note the recoil lug in green tape matching the contour


The whole rifle
 
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I like that idea - Zip tie it together

Zip ties work great for holding an action into a stock while bedding. It keeps a nice even pressure on everything without distorting the stock.

Years ago I watched a guy take all the precautions in the world. Clay was perfect, released everything, mixed on a flat plate to mitigate air bubbles, etc.

Only to squash the thing in the stock with a big ol C clamp right in the middle between the pillars. He'd leave it like that cause if he loosened it, the "bellows" effect would take over and it'd pull air between the stock/action. Trying to educate him failed as he thought it'd stay that way.

-Sure, if you never take the clamp off.

Zip ties were my solution. Just gotta make sure you get the good ones. The cheapo ones in mass circulation these days will drive you nuts cause they always break as you snug them up. RC hobby shops to the rescue! RC planes are held together by zip ties. The store owners know where to get the good ones.

We'll be popping her out in the am boss!

C.
 
I was hoping you would post something on your build. Cant wait to see the final product.
 
Machine work got wrapped up Friday afternoon as we were headed out to the races. It was the last dash for the season here and we never tire of watching late models and sprints run. Street stocks are kinda fun too as the action is so close.

Saturday morning started with a number of walk in clients so we only made it as far as primer on the stock.

Stock will be in base color and 2nd/3rd color sometime today.

This is my first "real" build on a Tikka. I have to say I am rather surprised/happy with how things went. It's a very easy action to work with for the most part. Bedding them is a snap. The owner and I talked and agreed that the feeding is amongst the best of anything/anywhere. Rivaling the smoothness of a well setup control round feed even. Half the time I had to look to ensure it actually peeled the cartridge out of the magazine cause you cant really feel it!

Curious to see how it shoots although I doubt there will be any issues. Between the bedding and the Brux barrel I'm optimistic.

Neat project!

PICS:

Right after popping the receiver:

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Magazine well sealing:

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Tikka uses the stock as the magazine well. Since this was a hard fill stock I had little "fuzzies" of fiberglass sticking out from various places. In the interest of cleaning that up and to give some added durability I ran the initial inlet, then painted resin all inside and "cooked" it with some halogen lamps. Once cured, we ran the same program again to give a nice slick/sealed finish. I also modified the profile a bit from the factory Tikka stock. Just widened the guide rails so that more contact was made with the magazine.
Seems to have worked well.

Surfacing the barrel channel ahead of the lug:

I never bed a barrel. One of the byproducts of how I bed a rifle however is residual bedding creeping up ahead of the lug. To clean it off I wright a quick surfacing program that mills away the bedding and leaves the stock untouched. Gives a nice clean finish ahead of the lug that preserves the original barrel contour surfed out during the initial inletting. This action was modified for a conventional tombstone style lug. I made that from scratch and finished it at .200" since this is a light weight huntin n killin rifle.

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Floormetal inletting:

Pretty simple process with this design. Wish they all went this fast!

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Fitup to check function:

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Soon as we get some paint worth looking at I'll post a few more pics. (who really wants to look at primer and spot puddy?)
 
This thread has me chomping at the bit to get all the parts for my Tikka build, and let you work your magic on it.
 
Rock on, it's nice to see something outside the norm & lefty to boot! Good looking rig OP, what's it chambered in?



Episode #2: Left Hand Manners T-5 adjustable cheek piece install ;) hint, hint.

t
 
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Rock on, it's nice to see something outside the norm & lefty to boot! Good looking rig OP, what's it chambered in?



Episode #2: Left Hand Manners T-5 adjustable cheek piece install ;) hint, hint.

t

Chambered in .243 win.

Needed a light weight tac driving hunting rifle for Wyoming and the Texas hill country. Manners T5 stock didn't fit those requirements. At the time I started the build I talked to Tom at Manners and his line of hunting stocks didn't meet my T3 requirements. At the time his stocks were set up for the CDI bottom metal and said they would not support the factory bottom metal, which is what I needed. McMillan had exactly what I needed so I went that direction.

It's been great working with Chad on this project as we've talked about features and the setup through out the build. Can't wait to get it and see how it shoots.
 
Chambered in .243 win.

Needed a light weight tac driving hunting rifle for Wyoming and the Texas hill country. Manners T5 stock didn't fit those requirements. At the time I started the build I talked to Tom at Manners and his line of hunting stocks didn't meet my T3 requirements. At the time his stocks were set up for the CDI bottom metal and said they would not support the factory bottom metal, which is what I needed. McMillan had exactly what I needed so I went that direction.

It's been great working with Chad on this project as we've talked about features and the setup through out the build. Can't wait to get it and see how it shoots.



The good ole .243 is a great cartridge, good choice.

The T-5 comment was a jab to Chad's ribs. He's got a non-adjustable Lefty T-5 of mine on a Stiller 7-saum he's installing adjustable hardware on & painting up for me :)


t
 
Sneak Peak at LongRifles Inc LH Tikka T3 Build "more pics"

I ran the action on this on saturday and will second the smoothness of this action. I was very impressed with how smooth it runs. Should make a nice little package.
 
Chad,

I'm wondering why you puttied up the original Tikka lug slot in the receiver and stock, and didn't bed it to use it as a secondary bedding surface?

And, what stainless did you make the lug out of?

Jeff-looking good. I just got my 708 in the Sako Classic back. This makes it my 4th custom Tikka build with my custom lug design. Break-in loads are loaded up. 5 more lugs, drilled, are in too. Right now I have 6 drilled lugs, and 3 faced, drilled actions ready to build. Can't wait to see yours finished. It's been a long time coming. And a sensible caliber at that. I bet you're chomping at the bit!

Al
 
Unless its an M14 you run one recoil lug on a gun. Least thats how I do it. Lug is made from prehard 4130. Didnt use ss. Dont really see the need and its more "chewy" to machine. Even the 17-4ph stuff I have is more work to cut nice. My lugs tend to have a broader/deeper footprint than most others. I just like the increased surface area against the stock.

For the mighty 243 winny Im bettin this bugger will hammer. Tikka has earned a newfound appreciation from me. Enough that we may look at offering some aftermarket options once the GB simmers down. Have to see. . .
 
id be in for a 260 rem, I have a tikka sitting right here,



Unless its an M14 you run one recoil lug on a gun. Least thats how I do it. Lug is made from prehard 4130. Didnt use ss. Dont really see the need and its more "chewy" to machine. Even the 17-4ph stuff I have is more work to cut nice. My lugs tend to have a broader/deeper footprint than most others. I just like the increased surface area against the stock.

For the mighty 243 winny Im bettin this bugger will hammer. Tikka has earned a newfound appreciation from me. Enough that we may look at offering some aftermarket options once the GB simmers down. Have to see. . .
 
Unless its an M14 you run one recoil lug on a gun. Least thats how I do it.


Sorry Chad, I might not have been clear about what I meant. What I've been doing is the lug up front, remove the Tikka lug, and just let bedding material fill both the factory hole in the stock, and the lug recess in the action. It really pulls things together.

Nice job on Jeff's rifle. I'm really liking the stock work.
 
Using bedding as a lug can work, however I felt in this case there wasn't enough meat for it. Long term. Imagine a service life if tearing down/assembly. One little slip and a corner gets chipped, etc.

Imagine an accidental overcharge on a case. Is it enough to crack that narrow boss sticking out of the bedding? I don't know. I know though that a tombstone type lug tolerates all this stuff well. Especially one with generous radius features in the corners. It allows an easy entry into the stock so as to avoid rocking/shoe horning to get it fitted up. It reduces the skill set involved and that increases the likelyhood that the gun will stay in one piece.

That's how I try to look at this stuff. Hoped it helps.

3rd color is being stenciled up right now. John and I are pulling a late one to get some stuff caught up. I'm back to building a few guns a week now. This helps the backlog tremendously. Trying for 3 of em this week. We'll see. . . :)

Here's some of the metal stuff all coated and ready for final assy.

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FYI don't use the tika rings..... Super soft aluminum. We played hell keeping my buddy's tight. About when we get the scope spot on things would come loose. Or better get a pictinny rail and better rings? You'll love that tika smoothest production bolt by far!
 
FYI don't use the tika rings..... Super soft aluminum. We played hell keeping my buddy's tight. About when we get the scope spot on things would come loose. Or better get a pictinny rail and better rings? You'll love that tika smoothest production bolt by far!

Bubb,

This will be a two scope gun. This will be my primary deer and night time hog hunting rifle here in Texas. I'm going with Warne quick detachable Tikka rings a Leupold 1-6x24 VX-6 30mm Riflescope duplex firedot reticle. Since my near catastrophic hog hunting incidence last winter I'm going with a true 1 power scope for my night time hog hunting adventures. Most shots at the ranch are less than 250 yards (usually 150 yards or less) though I could reach out to 400 in a few places I’m good with the 6X.

For hunting out west in Wyoming Warne QD rings and a Leupold 3-18x44 VX-6 30mm Riflescope duplex firedot reticle

Chad, the rifle looks fantastic, can’t wait to see the finished product and get it out the range.
 
Chad,

All I can say is WOW! This project exceeded my expectations, can't wait to get it on the range and see how it shoots.

Many Thanks!
 
Paint is awesome! Whole rifle is awesome! What colors on the stock/metal if you don't mind sharing?
 
Very, very sharp. The colors/pattern go together perfectly. Nice job Chad.

Jeff-I've never seen a deer or a hog take a step after being hit with a 95gr NBT out of a .243. And I've seen a bunch of them hit...
 
Just a shout out to Chad at Long Rifles Inc....


He did some minor work to my Tikka T3 .260 Sporter. Threaded muzzle, epoxied a steel recoil lug into the stock, and put in a LA bolt catch.

Work quality was excellent. Communication was excellent. Just an all around great experience.

In the gunsmithing world it is rare to be treated so well!
 
Chad, very nice again. How do you like working with the Tikka rifles, and Sako for that matter? Do they seem to be well made from the factory, how far out are the critical surfaces on average? How does the steel seem to cut, does it appear to be good quality? Any other observations as far as using them as a custom platform? Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us...
 
Chad, very nice again. How do you like working with the Tikka rifles, and Sako for that matter? Do they seem to be well made from the factory, how far out are the critical surfaces on average? How does the steel seem to cut, does it appear to be good quality? Any other observations as far as using them as a custom platform? Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us...

I had a lengthy discussion with Chad on my build and how good/bad the Tikka receiver was for the build. My Tikka was his first true rebuild he did on a Tikka a action.

He said when he got the barrel off (also an easy process) and receiver in the mill all set up to blue print the only thing he had to do was face off the recess on the end of the reviecer. Believe it or not everything on the receiver including the threads were dead nuts on. There was nothing else for him to do to it. He was extremely impressed with tolerances and the receiver. He also said the bolt slid like goose poop through something ( I forgot what but it was a classic Chad) He felt once the tomb stone style recoil lug was on it was as good as any custom action to build a rifle on.

He was impressed so much with the reciever that once after the group guy's are done being built he wants to do more Tikka projects and may start offering some custom after market items. He let me know he had already received a couple Tikka rifles in for builds like mine just after the first pictures went up.

This was all welcome news for me as I may have him start my next 6.5 creed Tikka build the first of the year. He'll be fininshing up my Modle 70 build shortly.

I'm looking forward to getting it back and taking it out to the range. Hopefully that answered your questions, maybe Chad will chime in with some direct input.
 
Thank you for the reply. I kinda figured that would be the answer. From what I have seen the Finnish turn out some high quality products. Let us know how it shoots for you.
 
I had a lengthy discussion with Chad on my build and how good/bad the Tikka receiver was for the build. My Tikka was his first true rebuild he did on a Tikka a action.

He said when he got the barrel off (also an easy process) and receiver in the mill all set up to blue print the only thing he had to do was face off the recess on the end of the reviecer. Believe it or not everything on the receiver including the threads were dead nuts on. There was nothing else for him to do to it. He was extremely impressed with tolerances and the receiver. He also said the bolt slid like goose poop through something ( I forgot what but it was a classic Chad) He felt once the tomb stone style recoil lug was on it was as good as any custom action to build a rifle on.

He was impressed so much with the reciever that once after the group guy's are done being built he wants to do more Tikka projects and may start offering some custom after market items. He let me know he had already received a couple Tikka rifles in for builds like mine just after the first pictures went up.

This was all welcome news for me as I may have him start my next 6.5 creed Tikka build the first of the year. He'll be fininshing up my Modle 70 build shortly.

I'm looking forward to getting it back and taking it out to the range. Hopefully that answered your questions, maybe Chad will chime in with some direct input.


This is John. First of all Jeff I am still cussing you. I liked this little gun enough that as I was wandering through Cabela's I stumbled upon a used long action T3 lefty and had to have it. So I will be starting one of my own. Similar to yours but in 6.5-284 ( I have a barrel as a result of a bad day at the keyboard on the lathe) This will be a build that will be in the works for a while as we prototype some parts along the way. So you Tikka owners rejoice as hopefully LRI adds some products that you are interested in adding to yours as well. A lot of the details of the build no doubt will evolve along the way. I am still up in the air on overall feel cant decide if it is a freezer filler or steel ringer. Decisions

JWP
 
Yep practically anyone that buys a Tikka can't praise them enough. Here in Europe that's basically the only game in town when it comes to donor action as used Tikkas can be had for 500-600€ and since all actions are the same you can even have multiple barreled actions for single stock. The only change must be recoil lug (best option imo is to use aluminum chassis and simply machining lug as a part of chassis) to use steel or stainless one or using remington style collar lug. I wish action was a bit bigger as it looks funny with 1.2" barrel on it but i don't think looks matter all that much.
Just a bit of warning as it appears that quality has dropped a bit (at least here locally or just luck of a draw) as two new tikkas (6.5x55 and .308) i've seen shoot somewhere in 0.7MOA and they used to be all around .3-4MOA rifles. Still factory advertises <1MOA so nothing wrong with .7MOA just saying how increase of sales to USA might have caused a slight drop in quality.
 
Looks great! I met Chad about a month ago and he did a bolt and handle job on my Remy Bolt. He has a great shop and everyone there were great to met. A very professional individual. I'm sure this gun will shoot. Save that inletting program Chad. I'm in the middle of putting a shilen barrel on a T3 and after a while will probably be looking to restock it.
 
Thanks for documenting another great build! The entertainment value of these is great, I love seeing quality rifles come together. Pleased to hear that you are looking into more Tikka services. I'm nearly finished with my first Tikka, and I know it won't be the last.