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So I’m buying a Dillon 750…..

PinesAndProjectiles

Formerly MinnesotaMulisha
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Minuteman
  • Jul 30, 2013
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    I’ve come across a 750 for sale. Has the 9x19 and the 6.5 man bun conversion kits and a set of Hornady 6.5 dies.

    Also comes with 1700 primers and all the OEM accessories.

    There’s a roller handle installed too, but other than that, it’s a factory setup.

    The guy selling has pumped out about 300 round with it and doesn’t use it anymore.

    Other than an Inline Fabrication mount, is there any other things that helped make it easier to use the press? Meaning make it more ergonomically friendly?

    I don’t want to dump a ton of money into it as I don’t shoot enough to justify the extra costs quite yet.

    Initially, I’ll only load pistol rounds on it. Start with 9 and then maybe buy another setup for 40.

    Is there anything you learned that was an “oh shit” moment?
     
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    I’ve come across a 750 for sale. Has the 9x19 and the 6.5 man bun conversion kits and a set of Hornady 6.5 dies.

    Also comes with 1700 primers and all the OEM accessories.

    There’s a roller handle installed too, but other than that, it’s a factory setup.

    The guy selling has pumped out about 300 round with it and doesn’t use it anymore.

    Other than an Inline Fabrication mount, is there any other things that helped make it easier to use the press? Meaning make it more ergonomically friendly?

    I don’t want to dump a ton of money into it as I don’t shoot enough to justify the extra costs quite yet.

    Initially, I’ll only load pistol rounds on it. Start with 9 and then maybe buy another setup for 40.

    Is there anything you learned that was an “oh shit” moment?
    You'll probably hate me for this.......

    If you remove the powder measure more than once a year, the QD setup is the way to go.


    Buy a spare parts kit. Sooner or later, you'll end up digging into it. Beats waiting a few days or a week for parts from Dillon.

    I have a couple of Inline Fab mounts for XL650 (I think they're the same for the 750), if you're interested.

    I generally like my 650's, but they (and the 750's) require a fair amount of maintenance. There are some mickey mouse items on the 650's, but at the end of the day, I still think they're probably the best presses in their class/Dollar category.

    If you ever end up adding a bulletfeeder, you'll have to go to a single seater/crimp die at station five (if you also use the powder check). Lee makes a nice die for that. Mr. Bulletfeeder is the way to go.

    The geometry of the Dillon powder check is not good for pistol cartridges and can be a PITA to set up. It can be done, but it's finicky.

    If you end up buying it, make sure to get the original ball handle. I've never used a roller handle, but it really doesn't appeal to me. I never had any issues or wants because of the ball handle.
     
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    You'll probably hate me for this.......

    If you remove the powder measure more than once a year, the QD setup is the way to go.


    Buy a spare parts kit. Sooner or later, you'll end up digging into it. Beats waiting a few days or a week for parts from Dillon.

    I have a couple of Inline Fab mounts for XL650 (I think they're the same for the 750), if you're interested.

    I generally like my 650's, but they (and the 750's) require a fair amount of maintenance. There are some mickey mouse items on the 650's, but at the end of the day, I still think they're probably the best presses in their class/Dollar category.

    If you ever end up adding a bulletfeeder, you'll have to go to a single seater/crimp die at station five (if you also use the powder check). Lee makes a nice die for that. Mr. Bulletfeeder is the way to go.

    The geometry of the Dillon powder check is not good for pistol cartridges and can be a PITA to set up. It can be done, but it's finicky.

    If you end up buying it, make sure to get the original ball handle. I've never used a roller handle, but it really doesn't appeal to me. I never had any issues or wants because of the ball handle.
    Most of those pets look relatively inexpensive. I want to get set up and start loading rounds before I make any adjustments or start tinkering.

    It does come with the factory handle also so that’s an option.

    I’ll send a PM about the mounts.
     
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    One of these

    Forgot to mention, it also comes with a light setup. Looks something like this.
    FA97E13E-BD7A-40A4-8A76-FC0194D40B94.png
     
    There's a real temptation to buy all kinds of aftermarket doodads........AMHIK. :unsure::ROFLMAO:

    Some are worth it, some are a waste of money. I'd be happy to discuss with you. PM me about the mount and I'll give you my cell number.
     
    Highly recommended:
    Inline fab mount
    Case Feeder

    For Rifle:
    Powder funnel with extension for dropping powder (Area 419 or similar)
    Armanov toolheads or similar

    This will make life easier initially but there is a ton of other stuff - search away!
     
    with my old eyes, the light kit is a must. the 750 is my favorite press, simple, reliable and pretty darn fast...I load o ton of 9's on mine. You can not go wrong with one imo.
     
    Dillon’s are a sinkhole that swallow money the way a Top Fuel Dragster sucks down nitromethane.

    Don’t ever even think about changing calibers without a complete caliber conversion. (Including the tool head, caliber conversion and powder throw) Also tool head stands and of course, a strong mount and bullet holder. They are not cheap, but when you have all the bells and all the ”wish”tles, they can really make things go quick and smooth.

    For information, I use my son’s Dillons and he swears by the roller handle, mounting them on all three of his Dillons. I use the original handle with the ball on my two Dillons, it may be just me, but I really feel no difference.

    The strong mounts are worth every penny. Really take the strain off of the edge of the table. Put the tool up to eye level. Just really nice.
     
    I’ve only used a Lee Loadmaster up until now, but it gave me an idea of each step, what needs to happen, how it happens, etc

    Granted, the Dillon is a different animal, it’s experience.

    I’ve family that I’m sure will want to use it also, so caliber conversions will be required but I’m going to have them pay for them.

    And the idea is to have each caliber set up on its own tool head with powder dropper and dies.

    There’s no way I want to change everything over just to change calibers. The whole reason I’m purchasing this beast is to save time, not money.
     
    I once made the mistake of thinking I could use a Lee Loadmaster as my entrance into the progressive press world. After 2 solid days of setting it up, re-setting it up, watching 20 youtube videos etc it still wouldn't complete 1 cycle. Sent it back for a refund and bought a Dillon 550. I was reloading without a hitch within 1 hour of mounting it on the bench.
     
    For 9mm loading on a 650/750....case feeder is must...you really want to crank our 9mm like I do bullet feeder is a must.. from there, dial it in and don't touch it.. hahah

    I've got 2 XL650's....one setup for 9mm with bullet and case feeder and the other setup for 5.56....

    Once you have it all setup and dialed in for a caliber it's a PITA to tear down, re-tool and dial back in properly.. yes, you can do it but it takes time...

    Roller bearing is a must...to prevent the shell plate click/jump that spills powder out of cases....

     
    For 9mm loading on a 650/750....case feeder is must...you really want to crank our 9mm like I do bullet feeder is a must.. from there, dial it in and don't touch it.. hahah

    I've got 2 XL650's....one setup for 9mm with bullet and case feeder and the other setup for 5.56....

    Once you have it all setup and dialed in for a caliber it's a PITA to tear down, re-tool and dial back in properly.. yes, you can do it but it takes time...

    Roller bearing is a must...to prevent the shell plate click/jump that spills powder out of cases....

    Absolutely this. All of it.
     
    For 9mm loading on a 650/750....case feeder is must...you really want to crank our 9mm like I do bullet feeder is a must.. from there, dial it in and don't touch it.. hahah

    I've got 2 XL650's....one setup for 9mm with bullet and case feeder and the other setup for 5.56....

    Once you have it all setup and dialed in for a caliber it's a PITA to tear down, re-tool and dial back in properly.. yes, you can do it but it takes time...

    Roller bearing is a must...to prevent the shell plate click/jump that spills powder out of cases....

    Our son uses his 650 for 9mm exclusively. Uses his two 550’s as I use my two, one for large primer rounds, one for small primer rounds
     
    For 9mm loading on a 650/750....case feeder is must...you really want to crank our 9mm like I do bullet feeder is a must.. from there, dial it in and don't touch it.. hahah

    I've got 2 XL650's....one setup for 9mm with bullet and case feeder and the other setup for 5.56....

    Once you have it all setup and dialed in for a caliber it's a PITA to tear down, re-tool and dial back in properly.. yes, you can do it but it takes time...

    Roller bearing is a must...to prevent the shell plate click/jump that spills powder out of cases....

    Is it as simple as changing out the tool head to swap between 9 and 5.56?

    Other than having to adjust a bullet or case feeder is it just a tool head swap?

    What about changing from 9 to 40? Cases and bullets are similar size but I’m not sure if the tooling would be different.
     
    For 9mm on an XL750, I have/recommend the following:

    case feeder (must have)
    Inline Fab Ergo Handle (better than the Dillon roller handle IMO, but the Dillon roller-handle isn't bad, stock ball sucks)
    Frankford Arsenal Vibra Prime (fill up the Dillon tube, then fill up the Vibra Prime's tube again and set it aside as a reload, 1 primer tube is all you'll ever need if you can take ~2-3min break every 200rds)
    Inline Fab Mount (as tall/short as you need with your bench to get the handle near shoulder height... ergos are your friend, save your shoulder)
    Inline Fab locator pin tabs (must have)
    Mr. Bullet Feeder (makes ~800-1000rds per hour easy)
    ...and the most important thing: .45ACP case with a 9mm projectile inside (as a weight on top of your primer follower rod)

    tempImagek2zlxG.png

    For spent primers:


    I like this light far better than the specific press lights, simpler, less BS, has a magnet to stick to the Inline Fab base:



    Mirrors for the case feeder and MBF bowls:

     
    Last edited:
    Is it as simple as changing out the tool head to swap between 9 and 5.56?

    Other than having to adjust a bullet or case feeder is it just a tool head swap?

    What about changing from 9 to 40? Cases and bullets are similar size but I’m not sure if the tooling would be different.
    Not quite. There is a “Caliber Conversion” kit with a shell plate, some pins, and parts to swap for case feeding (use a case feeder!). This stuff isn’t bad to swap. some parts may be the same for similar calibers but I’d recommending just buying the kit for each.

    If primer size is changing there are parts to swap for that.

    if using a dedicated toolhead for each caliber (highly recommended) you can set up dies and powder and leave it. Otherwise you are switching dies out on the toolhead and have to get everything set up each time.

    Each step isn’t bad but it can take a bit to make the change.
     
    For the light kit, I strongly prefer the KMS UFO light kit vs the skylight or other single point setups. More light, better angles, no popping an extra piece/cable in and out of your toolhead. Stick it properly once and you're good to go.
     
    ...and the most important thing: .45ACP case with a 9mm projectile inside (as a weight on top of your primer follower rod)
    I gotta try this on my 550. Since primers have gotten so expensive and sometimes unobtanium I've started priming on my rockchucker to keep from mangling so many when they get turned on their side during seating on the Dillon.
     
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    So many things you can get for the 650/750 that are useful. Light and primer stop are probably the most useful I would say. The inline arm for mounting bins off of the main mount is good for dumping your bullets in. Oh, and another 750 so you don't have to change primer system from small to large :)
     
    I gotta try this on my 550. Since primers have gotten so expensive and sometimes unobtanium I've started priming on my rockchucker to keep from mangling so many when they get turned on their side during seating on the Dillon.

    IIRC the 550's priming system is the same priming system they used on the 750. The .45ACP case w/ bullet weight on top of the follower rod and then bending in a little more "kick" to the rod that moves the priming shuttle back and forth (so it'd come all the way back and scoop up new primers under the primer magazine tube more happily) cured all of its misbehavior for me.
     
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    And....IIRC, this is one of the items that Dillon says will void your warranty. I have one, it works well. They've never asked, I've never mentioned it.

    Dillon also says that adding an Autodrive to a 650/750 will void it's warranty. They say that the 650's/750's weren't designed for those kinds of forces. About the only thing that I see that would be a breakage candidate through normal use is the plastic "Ring Indexer". It you don't know what that is now, you'll become familiar with it at some point. The spare parts kit has one in it. The spare parts kit is worth it, buy one.
     
    Good morning everyone. I’m mocking up this press on my bench.

    I’ve got a 6 foot by 4 foot L shaped bench and I want it on the short side.

    Anyone see anything wrong with this set up?

    Will I need more room than this?

    12A0A9F9-C7DF-4315-B86B-BA9284AC284E.jpeg
     
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    After 50+ years of reloading, I can say, you will never have enough room or enough storage. Right now, my nicely organized loading space is a mess. My only recommendation is get a shelf system set up with tools, parts, dies powders and primers in their own space. Makes it easier to find what you are looking for and promotes safety.
     
    After 50+ years of reloading, I can say, you will never have enough room or enough storage. Right now, my nicely organized loading space is a mess. My only recommendation is get a shelf system set up with tools, parts, dies powders and primers in their own space. Makes it easier to find what you are looking for and promotes safety.
    Although you’re not wrong, that doesn’t really answer my question.

    Is the press in a good enough spot?

    Does the right or left side need more room?
     
    Although you’re not wrong, that doesn’t really answer my question.

    Is the press in a good enough spot?

    Does the right or left side need more room?
    I would say that’s up to you. I prefer my press on the right but it’s just how I like to work. I also don’t think it would matter if it’s on the left. That is why I installed a track system. I can move everything around and see what fits best and if I decided to change it I can.
     
    Although you’re not wrong, that doesn’t really answer my question.

    Is the press in a good enough spot?

    Does the right or left side need more room?
    That’s about where mine is as far as distance from the right edge of the bench and I like it. Leaves plenty room on the left for bullets, working with manual powder drops for rifle loads, etc. Also leaves a larger open space on the bench for other tasks not related to the Dillon. I see the InlineFab sticker - are you using one of their mounts? I‘d suggest the mounted height is more important than the positioning.
     
    With the presses on each end, it leaves the entire middle of the bench open. With an RCBS accessory plate in the middle, I can put my case trimmer, automatic primer machine, an extra press (which I have been using more and more regularly) and my lubrizerser. I also really appreciate the strong mounts for actually adding room to the room by moving. The presses towards the middle of the benches. They also take stress away from the edge of the bench.

    So, to answer your question, having the press more towards the end is my preference. With the Dillon, leave room for the box that holds empty cases.

    An interesting point, with the strong mount and bullet tray, even though I am right handed, it removes the issues with being right handed or left handed. However, single stage presses, with the right hand operating the press handle, having the press on the far right side, maximizes use of bench top space to work.

    1583350E-6537-49FD-B57A-5F0E230C074D.jpeg
     
    That’s about where mine is as far as distance from the right edge of the bench and I like it. Leaves plenty room on the left for bullets, working with manual powder drops for rifle loads, etc. Also leaves a larger open space on the bench for other tasks not related to the Dillon. I see the InlineFab sticker - are you using one of their mounts? I‘d suggest the mounted height is more important than the positioning.
    I do have one of their mounts but it’s for a Forster Coax.

    My bench is elbow height for me so ergonomically I may not need a mount for the Dillon. Time will tell.
     
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    With the presses on each end, it leaves the entire middle of the bench open. With an RCBS accessory plate in the middle, I can put my case trimmer, automatic primer machine, an extra press (which I have been using more and more regularly) and my lubrizerser. I also really appreciate the strong mounts for actually adding room to the room by moving. The presses towards the middle of the benches. They also take stress away from the edge of the bench.

    So, to answer your question, having the press more towards the end is my preference. With the Dillon, leave room for the box that holds empty cases.

    An interesting point, with the strong mount and bullet tray, even though I am right handed, it removes the issues with being right handed or left handed. However, single stage presses, with the right hand operating the press handle, having the press on the far right side, maximizes use of bench top space to work.

    View attachment 8115540
    Perfect. Thanks!
     
    I've found with the 750, that the closer you can get it to shoulder height the better. I recommend the 9.75" Inline Fab mount... it'll save your shoulder and make it much easier to run the press for longer stretches.
     
    I like having more room on the right. Eventually if start loading precision rifle ammo on there you will want your v3 with ig trickler in the right 🤣 to throw powder in
    Yeah - OP should definitely consider which side. I like keeping my hand on the handle and drop powder and grab a bullet with my left.
     
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    Although you’re not wrong, that doesn’t really answer my question.

    Is the press in a good enough spot?

    Does the right or left side need more room?
    Actually owe you a bit of thanks. My reloading benches were getting quire cluttered. So, this evening, I took the time to get everything cleaned up. Got a full box of empty plastic bullet boxes and a larger box filled with empty powder keg bottles. Was saving them for reasons I really can’t understand.
     
    Although you’re not wrong, that doesn’t really answer my question.

    Is the press in a good enough spot?

    Does the right or left side need more room?
    Keep the press on the outside. You will have plenty of room to work.

    Inline fabrication everything with the QC plates. You're life will be easier. Allow tons of room above the press for the casefeeder and Bulletfeeder.

     
    Actually owe you a bit of thanks. My reloading benches were getting quire cluttered. So, this evening, I took the time to get everything cleaned up. Got a full box of empty plastic bullet boxes and a larger box filled with empty powder keg bottles. Was saving them for reasons I really can’t understand.
    We all do it. It's our nature to save those boxes and jugs in case we need it but I haven't really found much use for them either
     
    I will speak up and say you will enjoy your 750 a lot more feeding it processed 9 mm brass. loading with all same head stamp processed brass is a very different experience than grinding through a five gallon bucket of free range pick up.

    YMMV
     
    I will speak up and say you will enjoy your 750 a lot more feeding it processed 9 mm brass. loading with all same head stamp processed brass is a very different experience than grinding through a five gallon bucket of free range pick up.

    YMMV
    This is good info. Thank you.
     
    I will speak up and say you will enjoy your 750 a lot more feeding it processed 9 mm brass. loading with all same head stamp processed brass is a very different experience than grinding through a five gallon bucket of free range pick up.

    YMMV

    Couldn't agree with this more....you will have primer seating inconsistencies which will drive you nuts when loading random headstone brass... also you'll get inconsistencies with the sizing, flare and crimp...

    I do buy fully processed 4 gallon buckets of 1x 9mm....but I have my son sort them into bins of same headstamp then run each headstamp at a time....problem free that way
     
    Couldn't agree with this more....you will have primer seating inconsistencies which will drive you nuts when loading random headstone brass... also you'll get inconsistencies with the sizing, flare and crimp...

    I do buy fully processed 4 gallon buckets of 1x 9mm....but I have my son sort them into bins of same headstamp then run each headstamp at a time....problem free that way
    I almost hate to go here, but, oh well......

    I have a 650 set up for 9mm. Per what Padom says, I have seen as much as 0.022" variation in OAL of once fired, various headstamp, unprocessed brass.

    It really does play hell with sizing, flare and particularly, crimp. No matter where you set the crimp die, some rounds will have too little crimp, some will be just right and some will have too much crimp. You can't "adjust your way out of it" If you're running mixed headstamp brass all in the same pass.

    Most "rational" people would just sort by headstamp and adjust the crimp die for each reloading run of the same headstamp brass. Within a given manufacturer's/headstamp brass, there still will be OAL brass variations, but probably not more than 0.005". This (small amount of) variation won't usually give you problems with the crimp.

    I, on the other hand, didn't choose the "rational" route. What did I do ? I made a case trimmer to trim mixed headstamp brass OAL. It's a variation of the Dillon case trimmer, but for 9mm. No one makes a trim die for 9mm, so I took a .223 trim die and altered it dimensionally to accomodate 9mm brass.

    I went this route because I just couldn't bring myself to hand sort 9mm brass. I already was running a "prep pass" of the brass through the press, where I was resizing and swaging anyway, so adding the trimmer to the prep pass wasn't any big deal.

    The press has a Mr. Bulletfeeder on it, so I lost one of the die positions (that would otherwise be used for a seperate seater die). To compensate, I use a Lee factory taper crimp/seater combo die. I highly recommend both products.

    I also added an Autodrive to the press. The thing runs like a scalded cat. I get mixed headstamp processed brass out the other end that has OAL variation of maybe 0.003" max. It was a lot of work to put together, but it really saves me a lot of time/headaches, not having to hand sort brass.
     
    Couldn't agree with this more....you will have primer seating inconsistencies which will drive you nuts when loading random headstone brass... also you'll get inconsistencies with the sizing, flare and crimp...

    I do buy fully processed 4 gallon buckets of 1x 9mm....but I have my son sort them into bins of same headstamp then run each headstamp at a time....problem free that way
    I’ve been thinking about this.

    Wouldn’t you be better off measuring the OAL of the case and sorting by length as opposed to head stamp?

    I understand sorting by head stamp, but if the case length is what causes headaches, sorting by length would do a better job to eliminate them.
     
    I have never sorted by headstamp and have loaded -40,000+rds on my 750 without very many problems. Range pick-up stuff exclusively.

    IMHO, most people crimp 9mm too much, think of it not as a crimp die but as a “bell removal” die, you only need barely enough for rounds to drop into a Hundo or other case gauge, no more. That’s actually the best way to set a crimp die up for 9mm IMO, a 16th of a turn at a time on the crimp die until it’s enough.

    Once it’s set right it should work with any headstamp…
     
    I didn't read the whole thread but you can put a thrust bearing on top of the shell plate so you can tighten it down more to get the wiggle out.

    1/2" x 15/16" x 5/64"​



    key for rifle ammo