I followed the Lyman 49th Edition to the letter. I am shooting a Parker Hale 1200 270 Win., OAL 3.34". Using H4831sc powder, Win brass and primers along with 130 gr Barnes TTSX, and using between 52 gr to 58 grs of powder was able to string 5 shot groups anywhere between 4 moa to 1 moa (55 gr). I was opening up at 54 grs and 56 grs, 55 grs was the tightest group. Will I benefit from breaking down in .2 gr increments or just be happy with the 1 moa for a hunting rifle and stay at 55 grs? I don't know my twist rate and am wanting to try 150 gr Barns TSX bullets next. The box says that these bullets are for 9.5" twist or faster. Any ideas if my rifle has that twist rate and that the 150 gr will be more accurate? Had a blast shooting my reloads and look forward to doing more. It will be used primarily as a hunting rifle inside 200 yards, but would like to make it as accurate as I reasonably can.
- Thread starter Laser1
- Start date
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
Congrates it feels good when you send off your first reload. Especially when everything goes well. My first time I was waiting for the gun to blow up or something else to happen.
As far a twist rate go on the web and search. Also can do the cleaning rod count.
If your happy with the way it shoots. Be done with it and just start shooting. If not start adjusting and trying. If your geating MOA or a little better. Thats probably where the gun is going to be at.
Congrates it feels good when you send off your first reload. Especially when everything goes well. My first time I was waiting for the gun to blow up or something else to happen.
As far a twist rate go on the web and search. Also can do the cleaning rod count.
If your happy with the way it shoots. Be done with it and just start shooting. If not start adjusting and trying. If your geating MOA or a little better. Thats probably where the gun is going to be at.
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
This is where it starts getting fun. Play with it if you like, or leave it and shoot. With the latter, you will never know what is posssible, with the former, you will learn. Some rifles are frustrating, but it is fun. Then you will want a crony just to see what it is really doing. Then you will want to shoot farther, and will need more stuff. See, fun.
This is where it starts getting fun. Play with it if you like, or leave it and shoot. With the latter, you will never know what is posssible, with the former, you will learn. Some rifles are frustrating, but it is fun. Then you will want a crony just to see what it is really doing. Then you will want to shoot farther, and will need more stuff. See, fun.
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
Sound's like minute of moose to me!
Congradulation's!
Wasn't your heart just a thumping!!????
Sound's like minute of moose to me!
Congradulation's!
Wasn't your heart just a thumping!!????
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
Do a Google search for "ladder test." It will be a big help.
Do a Google search for "ladder test." It will be a big help.
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
If you have the gear, I say WHY NOT make it as accurate as you can?
Just because you shoot short distance doesnt mean you cant and shouldn't get her shooting well.
In my opinion, 1 MOA is the goal, and if anything Is what I consider the most I would want my rifles to shoot. Less would be much more preferable.
Those increments your talking about are huge.
Cut them down to 0.3 grain increments to start with.
Make sure your doing your part first as If your not load development is just a waste of time.
If you have the gear, I say WHY NOT make it as accurate as you can?
Just because you shoot short distance doesnt mean you cant and shouldn't get her shooting well.
In my opinion, 1 MOA is the goal, and if anything Is what I consider the most I would want my rifles to shoot. Less would be much more preferable.
Those increments your talking about are huge.
Cut them down to 0.3 grain increments to start with.
Make sure your doing your part first as If your not load development is just a waste of time.
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
The first time I shot my own reloads I was so nervous. All I could picture was my gun blowing up and taking some fingers off.
I squeezed the trigger and the load was so light it was like shooting a .22. Lol
Now the fun part starts. Different powders, different bullets. Daily deliveries of different components.
It never stops.
The first time I shot my own reloads I was so nervous. All I could picture was my gun blowing up and taking some fingers off.
I squeezed the trigger and the load was so light it was like shooting a .22. Lol
Now the fun part starts. Different powders, different bullets. Daily deliveries of different components.
It never stops.
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
I couldn't find what the twist rate is for this particular gun. I think the action is a FN Mauser 98. I'm going to try to move around the 55 gr mark by .3 grns and see if the accuracy increases. I will then try the 150 gr TSX and see if anything gets better or worse. First time I pulled the trigger on the reloads, I was definately nervous about being blown up, but after the initial adrenaline rush, was very pleased with my decisions. I did weigh my powder twice just to be sure. This twist rate has me confused so I guess the best way to see if the 150 grners are more accurate is just to load them up and shoot'em.
I couldn't find what the twist rate is for this particular gun. I think the action is a FN Mauser 98. I'm going to try to move around the 55 gr mark by .3 grns and see if the accuracy increases. I will then try the 150 gr TSX and see if anything gets better or worse. First time I pulled the trigger on the reloads, I was definately nervous about being blown up, but after the initial adrenaline rush, was very pleased with my decisions. I did weigh my powder twice just to be sure. This twist rate has me confused so I guess the best way to see if the 150 grners are more accurate is just to load them up and shoot'em.
Re: So I finally shot my first rifle reloads.....
Laser, welcome to the addiction. First off, good advice on folks saying tweak the powder charge in .3 gr increments, BUT..
what I would focus on at this point, especially with that bullet (TSX), is the COAL, or specifically the seating depth of your bullet. TSX's (whether tipped or not) are very picky about their 'jump' into the lead (or lands). Barnes recommends having 50 thousandths of jump, or more.
I would load several rounds with the bullet seated 10 thousandths further into the case, e.g. start with the seating depth you are currently using, say 5 rounds. Then load 5 with everything the same EXCEPT seat the bullet 10 thou further into the case. Then 5 more that are 10 thou further into the case than those, and so on...obviously you have to use common sense, and if you KNOW you are already more than 50 thou off the lead, than seat some out progressively at some increment, say 10 thou at a time, maybe 5 thou, until you have some that ARE at 50 thou off the lands. You can certainly get closer than 50 and have good/better accuracy, I do in some of my rigs, but the bottom line is, seating depth really affects accuracy with TSX's especially, IME, and I typically find best accuracy somewher between 30-60 thou of jump.
The next thing I would be looking at is case to chamber fit, I always achieve best accuracy with a case with a slight crush fit to what I call a zero headspace fit, meaning that to the best of my ability the case is sized during the reloading process such that the headspace changes zero from pre-firing to after firing--which is a slight fallacy, as the shoulder move forward a small amount, even with a slight crush fit, but in short, I look for a case that is sized to fit the chamber as closely as possible. The Nosler reloading manual--and I'm sure lot's of threads on sites like this--speak to this type of case sizing--called PFLR (partial full lenght resizing)- it helps when ringing out the best accuracy you can get.
To find out the twist on your barrel, put your rifle in the cleaning cradle/vise, and put a tight fitting patch on your cleaning rod (it has to be a rod where the rod rotates in the handle) and then mark your handle with a sharpie or piece of masking tape or whatever. Push the rod into your barrel until the tight patch just engages the rifling, and then count the turns the rod makes as you slowly pass it through your barrel, and then do the math, i.e. 20" barrel and rod rotated two full times, 20/2 = 10, so one in ten twist in that example.
Keep tweaking with it, that's a lot of the fun-- I will say that in my 270's that I shoot H4831 in, I have found accuracy at a tad higher charge, around 59 grains usually. This is where the previously mentioned ladder test can help, but frankly, I think you are pretty close, and I've never been one to push the envelope on charges, I'd rather find a really accurate load several grains under max, than one a little north of listed maximums!
Beware, next you may be chasing concentricity, or as folks usually refer to it 'runout' which CAN make a pretty big difference--but that's for a little while later, how long just depends on your personal curve, and gear buying appetite!!
Good Luck
Laser, welcome to the addiction. First off, good advice on folks saying tweak the powder charge in .3 gr increments, BUT..
what I would focus on at this point, especially with that bullet (TSX), is the COAL, or specifically the seating depth of your bullet. TSX's (whether tipped or not) are very picky about their 'jump' into the lead (or lands). Barnes recommends having 50 thousandths of jump, or more.
I would load several rounds with the bullet seated 10 thousandths further into the case, e.g. start with the seating depth you are currently using, say 5 rounds. Then load 5 with everything the same EXCEPT seat the bullet 10 thou further into the case. Then 5 more that are 10 thou further into the case than those, and so on...obviously you have to use common sense, and if you KNOW you are already more than 50 thou off the lead, than seat some out progressively at some increment, say 10 thou at a time, maybe 5 thou, until you have some that ARE at 50 thou off the lands. You can certainly get closer than 50 and have good/better accuracy, I do in some of my rigs, but the bottom line is, seating depth really affects accuracy with TSX's especially, IME, and I typically find best accuracy somewher between 30-60 thou of jump.
The next thing I would be looking at is case to chamber fit, I always achieve best accuracy with a case with a slight crush fit to what I call a zero headspace fit, meaning that to the best of my ability the case is sized during the reloading process such that the headspace changes zero from pre-firing to after firing--which is a slight fallacy, as the shoulder move forward a small amount, even with a slight crush fit, but in short, I look for a case that is sized to fit the chamber as closely as possible. The Nosler reloading manual--and I'm sure lot's of threads on sites like this--speak to this type of case sizing--called PFLR (partial full lenght resizing)- it helps when ringing out the best accuracy you can get.
To find out the twist on your barrel, put your rifle in the cleaning cradle/vise, and put a tight fitting patch on your cleaning rod (it has to be a rod where the rod rotates in the handle) and then mark your handle with a sharpie or piece of masking tape or whatever. Push the rod into your barrel until the tight patch just engages the rifling, and then count the turns the rod makes as you slowly pass it through your barrel, and then do the math, i.e. 20" barrel and rod rotated two full times, 20/2 = 10, so one in ten twist in that example.
Keep tweaking with it, that's a lot of the fun-- I will say that in my 270's that I shoot H4831 in, I have found accuracy at a tad higher charge, around 59 grains usually. This is where the previously mentioned ladder test can help, but frankly, I think you are pretty close, and I've never been one to push the envelope on charges, I'd rather find a really accurate load several grains under max, than one a little north of listed maximums!
Beware, next you may be chasing concentricity, or as folks usually refer to it 'runout' which CAN make a pretty big difference--but that's for a little while later, how long just depends on your personal curve, and gear buying appetite!!
Good Luck
