What are the pros and cons of each?
Gunsmithing Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
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Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
Well, floaters allow flexibility and precision accuracy for matching pilot to bore tolerances. Some people have to have floaters because the solid pilot might leave 'marks' in the rifling ahead of the the throat during chambering.
I use both depending on the application, and have never had a problem, with regards to using one over the other.
'Marks' I have seen in barrels chambered with solid pilot have thus far been so slight, that after the first few rounds are fired, they disappear without a trace and appear to be mildly cosmetic.
Well, floaters allow flexibility and precision accuracy for matching pilot to bore tolerances. Some people have to have floaters because the solid pilot might leave 'marks' in the rifling ahead of the the throat during chambering.
I use both depending on the application, and have never had a problem, with regards to using one over the other.
'Marks' I have seen in barrels chambered with solid pilot have thus far been so slight, that after the first few rounds are fired, they disappear without a trace and appear to be mildly cosmetic.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
We have been using bushing piloted reamers and a floating reamer holder. They have been working out really well. Its nice being able to change bushings as need to ensure a proper fit to guide the reamer inline with the bore.
A solid pilot is doing the same thing but if you end up with a barrel with a tighter bore like a Oby you could run into problems. Any marks left by a solid pilot wouldn't last long like Beef pointed out.
We have been using bushing piloted reamers and a floating reamer holder. They have been working out really well. Its nice being able to change bushings as need to ensure a proper fit to guide the reamer inline with the bore.
A solid pilot is doing the same thing but if you end up with a barrel with a tighter bore like a Oby you could run into problems. Any marks left by a solid pilot wouldn't last long like Beef pointed out.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
Fixed pilot reamers are less expensive.
Floating pilot reamers allow a tighter and therefore more precise fit to a specific barrel.
Fixed pilot reamers are less expensive.
Floating pilot reamers allow a tighter and therefore more precise fit to a specific barrel.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel
By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johny B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel </div></div>
you only read the "drill" part not the "and bore" part of what he said.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johny B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel </div></div>
you only read the "drill" part not the "and bore" part of what he said.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johny B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel</div></div>
You can still pre-drill and bore if you are using a piloted reamer to save wear and tear on your reamer. Just drill and bore it slightly undersize (~0.020 or so) and make sure you don't drill deeper than the shoulder of the case. The pilot still rides in the bore, but the fb, neck and shoulder don't have to cut the entire way.
Edit: Removed incorrect information.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johny B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel</div></div>
You can still pre-drill and bore if you are using a piloted reamer to save wear and tear on your reamer. Just drill and bore it slightly undersize (~0.020 or so) and make sure you don't drill deeper than the shoulder of the case. The pilot still rides in the bore, but the fb, neck and shoulder don't have to cut the entire way.
Edit: Removed incorrect information.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wtopace</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johny B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel</div></div>
You can still pre-drill if you are using a piloted reamer to save wear and tear on your reamer. Just drill it slightly undersize (~0.020 or so) and make sure you don't drill deeper than the shoulder of the case. The pilot still rides in the bore, but the fb, neck and shoulder don't have to cut the entire way. If you are drilling it undersize like this and using a pilot in the bore I don't see the need for boring it (although I am still new to chambering). </div></div>
Johnny B is right about drilling without boring. a drill will not always make a perfectly round hole nor will it always drill concentric to the pilot hole. the pilot and small od of the reamer under the pilot are not strong enough to overcome an out of alignment body area of the chamber. people do drill the body without boring and get away with it but if you are looking for the best chamber possible, i'd bore after drilling.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wtopace</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johny B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By using a drill first are you not making an assumption that the drill is straight and wil not drill offcenter of the bore? I have thought about trying it on a scrap barrel but I always but the full chamber with my reamer taking .100 cuts at a time.
I'm not bad mouthing that approach just wandering if you have seen differences in how your chamber turns out and accuracy on from the barrel</div></div>
You can still pre-drill if you are using a piloted reamer to save wear and tear on your reamer. Just drill it slightly undersize (~0.020 or so) and make sure you don't drill deeper than the shoulder of the case. The pilot still rides in the bore, but the fb, neck and shoulder don't have to cut the entire way. If you are drilling it undersize like this and using a pilot in the bore I don't see the need for boring it (although I am still new to chambering). </div></div>
Johnny B is right about drilling without boring. a drill will not always make a perfectly round hole nor will it always drill concentric to the pilot hole. the pilot and small od of the reamer under the pilot are not strong enough to overcome an out of alignment body area of the chamber. people do drill the body without boring and get away with it but if you are looking for the best chamber possible, i'd bore after drilling.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
Sorry to get everone off topic, just wanted to hear what everone thought. To answer the original question at the top, I use a piloted reamer when building a competition rifle like a 6ppc or 30x48. If i am building a very accurate hunting rifle I will use a solid pilot reamer. The only reason is cost. We shoot a lot of comps and wear a barrel out every other year. I feel the piloted is just a little more accurate because you can adjust a couple tenths to the barrel id. For a hunting rifle that will probably never have 1000 rounds through it and I will only ever make a coulpe rifles ever it saves a little money to get the solid reamer. The rifle still shoots under half Moa with a good hand load. Well that's my two cents.
Sorry to get everone off topic, just wanted to hear what everone thought. To answer the original question at the top, I use a piloted reamer when building a competition rifle like a 6ppc or 30x48. If i am building a very accurate hunting rifle I will use a solid pilot reamer. The only reason is cost. We shoot a lot of comps and wear a barrel out every other year. I feel the piloted is just a little more accurate because you can adjust a couple tenths to the barrel id. For a hunting rifle that will probably never have 1000 rounds through it and I will only ever make a coulpe rifles ever it saves a little money to get the solid reamer. The rifle still shoots under half Moa with a good hand load. Well that's my two cents.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
If you don't go in an clean the hole up with a boring bar- you may as well not drill it all and ream it 100%. Otherwise you are asking for disaster.
If you don't go in an clean the hole up with a boring bar- you may as well not drill it all and ream it 100%. Otherwise you are asking for disaster.
Re: Solid pilot vs. removable pilot reamers
you absolutely have to bore the hole after drilling as others have said. The small shank where the pilot rides will not overcome the force of the off center hole where the reamer body is cutting.
you absolutely have to bore the hole after drilling as others have said. The small shank where the pilot rides will not overcome the force of the off center hole where the reamer body is cutting.
