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Solved my Problem with Fliers and Intermittent Accuracy Loss.

I'm not sure the red Loctite is going to give a proper bedding. It acts as more of an adhesive than a bedding compound. I've used JB Weld to good effect. Basically, you use a lubricant to stop it from adhering to the top of the action (shoe polish works well) and from seeping into the screw holes. Then you screw it in with one screw and let it almost cure. This lets it adhere to the rail and fill the gaps between the rail and action without torquing the rail out. Then you pull it, clean up the epoxy while it's still somewhat pliable and let it fully cure.

There are a number of videos out there on how to do this.
 
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Another option for the Loctite you're using on the screws: Permatex has their version of threadlocker also. They make an orange version that they say is 3 times stronger than the blue stuff, but it doesn't require heat to break it loose like the red stuff does.

Just a thought.
 
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Wow....that's kinda cool. Too late for me now but someone else reading this thread later may benefit. I did an experiment or two with the Red Loctite and it's not all that difficult to get pinpoint heat on an individual screw and back it out easily. I used an old, worn Torx bit and heated the big end of it with a pinpoint heat torch until the Red Stuff released and then quick pulled the old bit out and inserted a waiting new bit on the torque driver and it comes out like butter.

Red Loctite don't skeer me and the Blue just didn't hold *but* I suspect that this was because the screws supplied with the new 20 MOA rail from EGW were too dang long and not getting sufficiently torqued down especially on the front two holes which are shallow and the rear two holes are not threaded all the way to the bottom. by the way, Red Loctite being kind of jelly like makes a dandy bedding agent.

I fixed the rear holes by tapping them all the way too. We'll see...

VooDoo
 
Obvious to who? How was I supposed to know they didn't thread the fucking hole to the bottom/all the way thru? I torqued it to spec and the rail was seemingly rock solid. The torque driver snapped at 20 inch pounds and the rail was solid. How was I supposed to know the fucking screw was bottomed out and only really giving me 8 inch pounds of compression on the fucking rail?

I suppose I could have got all Smarty Pants and measued the depth of the hole and the length of the screw to within thousandths but I failed. I didn't do that.

VooDoo

Wow. I didn't mean to touch a nerve. But, I apparently did.

After the 1st time it came loose is when I would have checked to ensure the screws/holes where proper. And that's not getting "all Smarty Pants," either. It's something that happens on production rifles.

BTW: It's a lot easier to screw the screw all the way in (without the base on of course), measure how much is sticking out. Then compare that measurement to the base. Not many people have a way to measure the inside of a 6 or 8 hole.
 
My apologies - I was cranky because of having to d o it again and was bitchy about it. I appreciate your help and information.

VooDoo
 
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