Solvent Trap Suppressor?

Bowhunter57

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I'm interested in having a suppressor for several of my rifles. However, I'm NOT interested in the outrageous wait time. (n) I would like to build/buy a Solvent Trap and go with the Form 1 method. All of my rifles are 243 caliber or smaller, so a 30 caliber suppressor should cover everything.

I prefer titanium or stainless steel material. I don't think aircraft aluminum would last as long, but I could be wrong.
I've done some research and found that some solvent traps are anywhere from $200 to $600 price range...and higher. :rolleyes:

Which brand/model would you recommend?

I'm open to suggestions. :)
Your experience and knowledge is appreciated.
Bowhunter57
 
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steelsnob47

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i would love to hear this too as well as any advice on how to begin and proceed with form 1 documents
 

andrewsben

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I just got my first stamp by doing a form 1 a couple days ago. Just doing a 22 to get my feet wet. Went with the quietbore kit, seemed decent enough. But with how fast these get approved will probably put in for a couple center-fire cans on form 1. Haven't had time to research enough though so hoping to see some recommendations people have...
 

pucker

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Join the F1 forums to start and there’s a treasure trove of videos and threads to start your build off of. To start I’d go with a Ti tube 1.5”x8” or 1.625 x7-8” https://form1suppressor.boards.net/
Concur.

I just started this process a couple months ago, got F1 back in 3 weeks. Went with 7” Talon, and Lucid cups... first being SS, remaining 6 being Ti.

DM and SPC (TxWelder mentions) make nice stuff too.

There are less expensive routes.

Also several mounting options. Based on your desire to swap between brake and can, or just can, etc. will help decide best mounting option. Direct thread is simple, but only if all your rifles have same muzzle thread pattern.

I went the Area 419 Hellfire route to enable both 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 use, and quick swap between brake and can.

Lastly, think about whether you want the can / tax stamp belonging to you (as an individual) or a trust (with you as trustee...and any other adult you choose to add). Pros/Cons of each. You’ll need to make this decision prior to F1 submission.

ATF site sucks (it’s gov run, of course), but once you figure it out, you’re good. And the speed of stamp approval is worth the hassle.

Order fingerprint cards right from ATF, and get ink pad from Amazon...and DIY. Do NOT bother with going to sheriff office, etc.
 
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BullGear

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I'm interested in having a suppressor for several of my rifles. However, I'm NOT interested in the outrageous wait time. (n) I would like to build/buy a Solvent Trap and go with the Form 1 method. All of my rifles are 243 caliber or smaller, so a 30 caliber suppressor should cover everything.

I prefer titanium or stainless steel material. I don't think aircraft aluminum would last as long, but I could be wrong.
I've done some research and found that some solvent traps are anywhere from $200 to $600 price range...and higher. :rolleyes:

Which brand/model would you recommend?

I'm open to suggestions. :)
Your experience and knowledge is appreciated.
Bowhunter57
First and foremost, congrats on your new addiction of solvent trap/suppressor building. They aren't difficult to do with just a few proper tools. As far as material, never use aluminum for rifles. In my opinion, heat treated stainless steel will be the best for your baffles. However titanium is a close second. Some of the reason solvent trap/suppressors are expensive is because of the machining. If you just want a simple all purpose suppressor, it will be towards the lower end. If you want to tune your suppressor to your ammo, it will take additional machining thus adding to the cost.

As to brands, it would depend on if you want something simple or something more specifically tuned to your caliber and ammo.
I would suggest you go to form1suppressor.boards.net. There you will find some of the smartest guys who build some amazing suppressors. Just sit back and read. There are a few guys who post videos and these guys really know suppressors.

Good luck!
 

awpk03s

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These are some of the companies making kits or individual components from quality materials like 17-4 SS and Titanium:

- Diversified Machine
- Maverick Precision
- JR Machine Pro
- Super Precision Concepts
- SD Tactical
- Muted Machine Works
- White Trash Tactical
- Dino Precision

Do a lot of research and buy quality stuff and you’ll certainly be happy with your results and turnaround time.
 

hlee

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This place needs a form 1 sticky for companies making this stuff. Tubes, baffles, end caps, mount adapters, spacer material. Most of the companies are not one stop shops. Add to that the obfuscation with sizes listed in battery diameters. Then, most are perpetually out of stock and none of them will answer emails. Anyway, you burn up your life doing the research to buy parts that are compatible. A sticky with the names of the companies and what they offer would be awesome- not even links, we can google from there...
 

Mr. Zick

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This place needs a form 1 sticky for companies making this stuff. Tubes, baffles, end caps, mount adapters, spacer material. Most of the companies are not one stop shops. Add to that the obfuscation with sizes listed in battery diameters. Then, most are perpetually out of stock and none of them will answer emails. Anyway, you burn up your life doing the research to buy parts that are compatible. A sticky with the names of the companies and what they offer would be awesome- not even links, we can google from there...
I agree. Please sticky.
@MarinePMI
@Dthomas3523
 
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Lunchbox27

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    Order fingerprint cards right from ATF, and get ink pad from Amazon...and DIY. Do NOT bother with going to sheriff office, etc.
    This! Rolling your own prints is easy. Watch a few youtube videos of how to do it and practice on paper, first. Write all your information on the cards first, as well. You won’t want your sweaty dick beaters to mess up the perfect prints you just rolled.

    I have done 3 Form 1’s rolling my own prints. All accepted.
     

    awpk03s

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    This! Rolling your own prints is easy. Watch a few youtube videos of how to do it and practice on paper, first. Write all your information on the cards first, as well. You won’t want your sweaty dick beaters to mess up the perfect prints you just rolled.

    I have done 3 Form 1’s rolling my own prints. All accepted.
    correct! I did all my Form 1’s this way. Same with my Form 4 can paperwork. Some looked kind of questionable, but flew right on through.
     

    BullGear

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    The biggest issue with e-filing a Form 1 is their web page. Don't get discouraged if the web page fails or does something stupid. It took me almost a week of trying to just get to page 2. This solvent trap to suppressor thing is addicting. You won't stop at just one.
     

    theLBC

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    of course i cannot own one form 1 or not where i live, and so i assumed these were some kind of trap, but not for solvents.
    perhaps they only track people in hearing impairment states.
     

    AMGtuned

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    Some great replies here. I am also building a couple form 1 cans. Ti tubes, HT SS internals. Will definitely update with progress. Here's a little contribution for those not on the form 1 boards

    Comprehensive List of All Known Solvent Trap & Form 1 Suppressor Vendors & Resources
    [Updated 4/26/2020]
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Premium Kits, Tubes, End Caps & Components

    Diversified Machine
    diversifiedmachine.us/

    Super Precision Concepts
    superprecisionconcepts.com/

    Maverick Precision
    maverickprecision.com/
    -------------------------------------
    Titanium, Aluminum, & Stainless Steel Kits & Components

    Quiet Bore
    www.quietbore.com/product/22lr-solvent-trap/

    Muted Machine Works
    mutedmachineworks.com/

    SD Tactical Arms
    sdtacticalarms.com/

    Hawk Innovative Tech
    www.hawkinnovativetech.com/

    Silencer Shop
    www.silencershop.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=solvent+trap

    JR Machine Products
    jrmachinepro.com/collections

    Solvent Traps Direct
    solventtrapsdirect.com/solvent-trap-kits/?sort=featured&page=1

    Solvent Trap Cups
    solventtrapcups.com/

    Prepper's Discount
    www.preppersdiscount.com/store/c3/Maglite_Adapters_.html

    Apogee Products
    apogeeproducts.com/

    A & L Machine
    www.aandlmachinearizona.com/

    KM Tactical
    kmtactical.net/product-category/default-category/accessories/solvent-traps-adapters/

    Badger Ridge Industries
    www.badgerridgeind.com/store/c1/Store

    Hansohn Brothers
    hansohnbrothers.com/

    Quell Technologies
    www.quelltech.shop/

    XRT Tactical
    form1suppressor.boards.net/user/6604

    Gallagher Machine
    gallaghermachine.com/

    JMPF Company
    www.jmpf.company/

    Solvent Trap Parts And More
    www.solventtrappartsandmore.com/

    Precision Armament Engineering
    www.precisionarmamenteng.com/solvent-trap-1
    -------------------------------------
    Aluminum Kits & Components

    Medlining Machine Works
    medliningmachineworks.com/

    Form 1 Builder
    www.form1builder.com/

    5 Second Firearm
    www.5secondfirearm.com/

    OldPhatVet
    oldphatvet.com/

    Infinite Product Solutions
    www.infiniteproductsolutions.com/

    NTC Trading Co
    www.ntctrading.net/

    Diesel Destruction
    shop.dieseldestruction.com/Napa-4003-Maglite-Misc-Parts_c13.htm
    -------------------------------------
    Imported Aluminum Kits - ORDER AT YOUR OWN RISK*

    SPELAB
    www.spelabautoparts.com/collections/fuel-filter

    LAFOAUTO
    www.lafoauto.com/collections/24003-fuel-filter

    eBay (Key Search Terms: Wix 24003, Napa 4003, Fuel Filter, 1/2-28, 5/8-24)
    www.ebay.com/

    Aliexpress (Key Search Terms: Wix 24003, Napa 4003, Fuel Filter, Solvent Trap, Solvent Filter, 1/2-28, 5/8-24)
    www.aliexpress.com/

    DHGate (Key Search Terms: Fuel Filter, Solvent Trap, Solvent Filter, 1 2-28, 5 8-24)
    www.dhgate.com/

    *DO NOT PURCHASE kits with any pre-drilled components (including pre-drilled cups, cones, end caps, or monocores).
    *DO NOT PURCHASE kits that mention "suppressor", "silencer", or includes any other references to firearm suppression in the description.
    *IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to only consider ordering kits if a "SHIPS FROM: USA" or "USA STOCK" domestic shipping option is available.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Cones & Cups

    Wedge Machine Works
    www.wedgemachineworks.com/

    Twin Tech Tactical
    twintechtactical.com/

    White Trash Tactical
    wttactical.net/

    Pure Performance Armory
    www.pureperformancearmory.com/

    Cerberus Manufacturing
    www.cerberusmfg.com/
    -------------------------------------
    Thread Adapters

    Hughes Precision
    hughesprecision.com/
     

    TheHorta

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    Filed / paid for my six (6) Form-1’s (4x silencers, 2x SBRs) on June 5. Not a peep since then. ☹

    Quick question — which cones are more effective? Stepped or smooth? 50 or 60? For 5.56 / 7.62.
     
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    AMGtuned

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    Filed / paid for my six (6) Form-1’s (4x silencers, 2x SBRs) on June 5. Not a peep since then. ☹

    Quick question — which cones are more effective? Stepped or smooth? 50 or 60? For 5.56 / 7.62.
    Research shows a mix of both smooth and stepped. Pending cartridge and host, maybe a blend of both angles.
     
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    Ape_Factory

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    Still debating going this route myself vs a form 4. One thing I haven't considered until last night is gas blowback since I'll be using it on two AR's. I look at something like the OSS helix line which isn't the quietest (by far), cheapest (by far) or lightest (by far, sensing trend) but does appear to eliminate much of the issue of gas blowback and excessive chamber/BCG contamination and blowback in the shooter's face. Not as much of an issue with a bolt gun.

    Do any of these solvent trap kits address that or are they primarily for bolt guns in that regard? Seems like all of them are internal cone baffles with an outer tube, hence the name solvent trap.
     

    awpk03s

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    You’re not going to find a “kit” with features machined in like an OSS can design. Now, if you’ve got a lathe, a mill, and your own raw material, sure you can make anything you want.

    As for the gas blowback, include some of the basic stuff like an adjustable gas block on your rifle, a PRI gas buster charging handle, and the rest you’ll have to figure out with a combination of tube diameter/length (interior volume), and cone design and spacing. Also the “clipping” of the cones can make a difference here.

    Find a cutaway picture of a known good can and apply that to your process.

    From my experience, and being a left handed shooter, I use a PRI charging handle, and I don’t have any gas to face experience with my Form 1 cans. Point of deference, I also shoot a Dead Air Sandman-S, and no gas to face.
     
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    AMGtuned

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    Still debating going this route myself vs a form 4. One thing I haven't considered until last night is gas blowback since I'll be using it on two AR's. I look at something like the OSS helix line which isn't the quietest (by far), cheapest (by far) or lightest (by far, sensing trend) but does appear to eliminate much of the issue of gas blowback and excessive chamber/BCG contamination and blowback in the shooter's face. Not as much of an issue with a bolt gun.

    Do any of these solvent trap kits address that or are they primarily for bolt guns in that regard? Seems like all of them are internal cone baffles with an outer tube, hence the name solvent trap.
    I believe you are looking for a coaxial type system. The OSS is blow -through or something. Have a look at the FLO can. However, spacing, clipping, and as mentioned above, some added doodads, you might get out cheaper and lighter. All designed for your particular host
     

    Ape_Factory

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    Appreciate the info from both of you. Both rifles (.308, 5.56) have adjustable gas blocks, the .308 has a rifle-length gas port and a "normal" adjustable gas block and the 5.56 is mid-length and has the Superlative Arms gas block. Honestly, I just want something that works and will last a long, long time as I don't have time to fiddle. I'm continuing to read and then read more and am now looking at the YHM R2 when it becomes available. Fair price and the engineering is done for me, full auto rated. Don't care about pretty. I'll continue to look at form 1, have a lathe/mill but just no time to experiment. Sometimes, you just want easy.
     

    ButterBean556

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    There is a step by step tutorial on YouTube as well for the form 1 process, mine took 3 weeks, as stated earlier yje Form 1 Forum has tons of info and parts, I used the Hawk Hybrid for the simplicity but there are some really quite form 1 cans available
     

    Longshot85

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    As mentioned above the website is TERRIBLE AT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY

    don't be discouraged, just be motivated to get through it and know you will be frustrated

    I would recommend having all of your files already to scanned and ready to upload BEFORE you even try to submit

    I've built 2 form 1's so far....the first was "do it all" can and it has excelled in that aspect. I run .22LR, 5.56 and 6.5cm through it. Being 9 inches long x 1.5 inches in diameter I wanted it to be versatile and be able to handle 7wsm (I built this one in 2012 .....7wsm was still a thing back then...), .300WM and possibly .338

    With that 9 inch can on it is as accurate as the rifle and I can shoot. I'm not big on bragging about groups but it will consistently crank out sub 0.5 MOA groups on my 6.5CM and SPR (IMI 77 grain....handloads in the works.)

    .22LR with subs is crazy quiet

    The 9 inch build is literally a freeze plug build. I spent a lot of time on silencertalk researching/lurking during my 11 month wait back in 2012 when form 1's were still done by paper like form 4's.

    The latest build is a 6 inch shorty can mostly tasked to stay on my new .300 BO build 95% of the time.

    I run SD tactical tubes and caps. The new 6 inch can is rocking the wedge precision cups for the inside.

    Here's some info on it, I still need to trst it after adding ports to baffles.

     

    Longshot85

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    And here's a hunting video that shows that the form 1 can is capable of accurate and precise shots

     
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    Flashooter22

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    There are many options out there for Form 1 stuff these days. As already suggested, check the Form1 suppressor forum and their is a couple Facebook groups out there as well. I have done 2 personally and assited my dad with 2 more, and currently have three in the works. The first couple were rifle cans. I would suggest a ASR thread tube in a 1.5 OD (D cell size) around 7.5-8 inches long for a good overall rifle can. First baffle or two stainless and th rest titanium. 50 degree cones seen to be a great choice, with 60s not too far behind it. The Flow kit (Quelltech) also has some great reviews. I have used "cups" from White Trash Tactical, Dino Precision and SPC. All have been very nicely machined.
    My last form 1 I did last month was approved in 14 days.
     

    Dnttech

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    For those with a desire to do a Form 1, I've used many of the sites which have been advertised on this page.....If you're looking for higher end components, take a look at Hawke Innovative Technology. I've used many of their parts (mostly titanium) and could not be happier. Pretty much a one stop shop, aside from a QD. No affiliation with them other than a satisfied customer.
     
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    frankxtc

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    This thread is an amazing find for me.
    Just a few months ago started my first F-4 trust process, looking like almost a year before I will have the stamp.
    But I have a TIG machine, lathe, mill……time to study the F-1 forms & procedures…this could be fun!
     
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    TxWelder35

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    Filed / paid for my six (6) Form-1’s (4x silencers, 2x SBRs) on June 5. Not a peep since then. ☹

    Quick question — which cones are more effective? Stepped or smooth? 50 or 60? For 5.56 / 7.62.
    Probably on a list after getting ahold of big brothers toys they didn’t want to share
     
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    ButterBean556

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    For those with a desire to do a Form 1, I've used many of the sites which have been advertised on this page.....If you're looking for higher end components, take a look at Hawke Innovative Technology. I've used many of their parts (mostly titanium) and could not be happier. Pretty much a one stop shop, aside from a QD. No affiliation with them other than a satisfied customer.
    X-2, Very satisfied with my Hawke Hybrid, very fast shipping
     

    Dnttech

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    Probably on a list after getting ahold of big brothers toys they didn’t want to share
    I'm new here and don't want others to get the idea I'm being or trying to be a know-it-all. Truth is, I'm at the opposite end of the line from that. You asked about the difference between stepped and un-stepped as well as the currently accepted number of degree of cone. I've seen virtually no difference between stepped and unstepped cones when it comes to sound at the ear. I don't know if an electronic measurement may make my remark invalid or not, but in all honesty, I can't tell the difference. When it comes to the angle of the cone, 60 degrees is the currently accepted standard if you will, but like all things when it comes to suppression, that may change. One question you didn't ask was the difference between cups/spacers and 60 degree cones. While cups/spacers allow you to modify and change height/distance between baffles to your heart's a content, in practice, they're a bit more of a PITA that simply modifying the skirt of a cone. Difference in sound between the two...unless you can hear like my wife, IMHO, it's negligible. Again, and I mean this with most sincerity, this is not the opinion of someone trying to know everything, simply my own experience.
     

    AMGtuned

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    I'm new here and don't want others to get the idea I'm being or trying to be a know-it-all. Truth is, I'm at the opposite end of the line from that. You asked about the difference between stepped and un-stepped as well as the currently accepted number of degree of cone. I've seen virtually no difference between stepped and unstepped cones when it comes to sound at the ear. I don't know if an electronic measurement may make my remark invalid or not, but in all honesty, I can't tell the difference. When it comes to the angle of the cone, 60 degrees is the currently accepted standard if you will, but like all things when it comes to suppression, that may change. One question you didn't ask was the difference between cups/spacers and 60 degree cones. While cups/spacers allow you to modify and change height/distance between baffles to your heart's a content, in practice, they're a bit more of a PITA that simply modifying the skirt of a cone. Difference in sound between the two...unless you can hear like my wife, IMHO, it's negligible. Again, and I mean this with most sincerity, this is not the opinion of someone trying to know everything, simply my own experience.
    While its nice to have multiple input on such a topic; most of what you said is only partially correct. There is a proven difference in step cone vs. not, there is also evidence to prove one step better than the other. 50° cones are the acceptable "standard", if you will, for supersonic builds. And while some prefer cones with skirts, a significant weight loss is also proven, when using cones and spacers. This is due to most wanting some SS cups, and Ti spacers. One can also get Ti spacer material in different thickness, which also can be different than skirted cone wall thickness.

    Still new-ish in the form 1 game myself, but I take pride in the reading and research I've done while building and sourcing my material. Lots of great info out there for all interested. Pretty sure I linked a master list of form 1 type companies here somewhere
     

    Dnttech

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    AMGtuned, I'll certainly defer to your opinion; however, I think the 14 completed Form 1 builds I've done gives me a bit of experience in the matter also. As far as reading and research, I'll stick by my 60 degree "standard." I will revisit the stepped cones. While I only finished 2 of those early in my builds, I was never truly satisfied I had found the correct cup spacing...nor had I begun clipping, nor had I determined my blast chamber dimensions were optimal...hence, my comment about no difference in sound to my ear. I'm due to begin another build this week for a gentleman's rifle...his would be a great place to renew my attention to stepped cones. Now, if you wouldn't mind a question for you...what have you found to be the most trouble free QD mount? I'm using DA Kymo's right now for my 1.5" builds and am looking at their micro for the smaller cans....any other suggestions would be most welcome. P.S. Virtually all the builds I do are cone and spacer..a PITA to be sure, but I prefer the modularity.
     
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    TxWelder35

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    AMGtuned, I'll certainly defer to your opinion; however, I think the 14 completed Form 1 builds I've done gives me a bit of experience in the matter also. As far as reading and research, I'll stick by my 60 degree "standard." I will revisit the stepped cones. While I only finished 2 of those early in my builds, I was never truly satisfied I had found the correct cup spacing...nor had I begun clipping, nor had I determined my blast chamber dimensions were optimal...hence, my comment about no difference in sound to my ear. I'm due to begin another build this week for a gentleman's rifle...his would be a great place to renew my attention to stepped cones. Now, if you wouldn't mind a question for you...what have you found to be the most trouble free QD mount? I'm using DA Kymo's right now for my 1.5" builds and am looking at their micro for the smaller cans....any other suggestions would be most welcome. P.S. Virtually all the builds I do are cone and spacer..a PITA to be sure, but I prefer the modularity.
    YHM qd system is know for working well, not carbon locking, not loosing, reliability, and is pretty affordable
     
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    AMGtuned

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    AMGtuned, I'll certainly defer to your opinion; however, I think the 14 completed Form 1 builds I've done gives me a bit of experience in the matter also. As far as reading and research, I'll stick by my 60 degree "standard." I will revisit the stepped cones. While I only finished 2 of those early in my builds, I was never truly satisfied I had found the correct cup spacing...nor had I begun clipping, nor had I determined my blast chamber dimensions were optimal...hence, my comment about no difference in sound to my ear. I'm due to begin another build this week for a gentleman's rifle...his would be a great place to renew my attention to stepped cones. Now, if you wouldn't mind a question for you...what have you found to be the most trouble free QD mount? I'm using DA Kymo's right now for my 1.5" builds and am looking at their micro for the smaller cans....any other suggestions would be most welcome. P.S. Virtually all the builds I do are cone and spacer..a PITA to be sure, but I prefer the modularity.
    Touché

    Clipping and step placement is critical. I'm using custom made adaptors and brakes. The brakes are the same as what would be used on my rifle anyway, modified to have a thread and shoulder. Tubes are all 1.625 OD. I know Keymo is popular, if I went different, it would be YHM or Griffin, because I like their simple lockup, and they make brake designs I like
     

    TxWelder35

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    Hey guys I saw a “water filter” that advertised very low back pressure on here somewhere. Had small holes drilled on the out side edges of the baffles. Any idea who makes it?
     

    AMGtuned

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    Theyre in version 1.5 right now. It was a limited run of all Ti, and numbered. There will be a 2.0 that is all SS, and should be quite similar to 1.5
     

    TxWelder35

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    Theyre in version 1.5 right now. It was a limited run of all Ti, and numbered. There will be a 2.0 that is all SS, and should be quite similar to 1.5
    Hoping they do one that’s a little shorter also