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Spin Drift at 1500 yards

TheBrewMaster

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 8, 2011
47
0
SLC, Utah
I'm dialing .7 mils for spin drift at 1500 yards.

Is this about what everyone else is dialing? That seems a bit much to me but I would like to know what others dial to compensate for spin drift when they are blessed with no winds.

I'm shooting 30 cal Hornady 225 gr out of an AI AW at 2820 FPS suppressed at an elevation of 4200ft.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Guess if you're hitting, then it must be right. I don't think I've EVER seen a day with zero wind out to that distance.

Topstrap
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I'm not needing any adjustment for spin drift. Same bullet @ 2850 out of a 28" 10tw Kreiger. Perhaps there is some wind you're not aware of.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I've held no wind at 1500. Once. But that doesn't mean that there was no wind.
wink.gif
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I know a place where there is kind of in a 3 way valley and on several occasions there is no wind where I shoot (on a smaller mountain) and then I drive down to my target and no wind there as well.

And yes that is not saying there is is no wind going up the mountain range that is on my right. But if anything I would expect wind to be coming off the mountain range pushing the bullet to the left???

I have the Ballistic FTE for my iPhone but I shoot Hornady 225 gr and their published BC just don't work worth a d@mn.

Does anyone know the BC of the 225 with a range of velocities?
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I'm using a BC of .710 G1 in FFS & .356 G7 on shooter. The posted BC is too low. I don't use, or need to calculate for spin drift with this brl. I did with my old brl tho. About 1 moa @ 1000yd. This one just shoots fast, & straight.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

The bullet is flying over your head, at 1500 yards, pretty close to 20ft give or take a few feet, the wind going up 10ft can have a 2MPH change on a calm day, going up 20ft can have more and you might not feel the difference on the ground at all.

The higher you go above the ground the less air resistance hence = more wind.

Look up Max Ordinate for the bullet and that will give you an idea of where the bullet is flying. Winds in the mountains are especially tricky and will channel and move the in a variety of ways... Shooting here measuring the wind I can have the kestrel and Ballistic calculator tell me i need to hold .8 mils of wind but the actual wind necessary at the target is .3, and that ain't because of SD, or CE, or anything else, except the wind is not doing what you think it should. I find using a ballistic program in the mountains, even with measuring the wind at the target and at the shooter, I have to enable multiple winds and then adjust for changes that are essentially unseen. By all accounts, an 8MPH wind measured at full value should be a bit more than .3 to hit the target, yet .3 is the right answer....

If the number works, than that is the answer, and I highly doubt you are holding the accuracy differences between a 1 MPH wind and what might be the actual SD, because in most cases that 1 MPH has a greater effect. Over 1500 yards very few are doping the wind to a 1 MPH degree of accuracy.

When I go to 1000 yards+, whatever the computer tells me I need for SD, i pretty know to use half of that, if I use any at all, which is to say, I pretty don't even turn the SD function on... maybe once and while just to compare.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

+1 what Lowlight said. I do all my shooting in the mountains, & for long shots (over 700-800 yd) I will want to observe the wind with my optics, my Kestrel, mirage, everything I can to get a handle on what the wind is really doing before I take a shot. That includes using my experience with wind over terrain to help dope the wind. It does some crazy stuff in the mountains. The last time I tried an ELR shot (1950yd) I watched the wind for over 20 min. & made my best guess @ direction, & speed through 3 zones before entering it in FFS, & doping the scope.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Now for some worthless information:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm dialing .7 mils for spin drift at 1500 yards.

Is this about what everyone else is dialing? That seems a bit much to me</div></div>

I'm going to skip the "no wind" part. I live in Wyoming.

For the "What its Worth" department, doing some rough math, (all my math is rough) .7 mils would be about 2.8 feet at 1400 yards.

I was just looking at a chart (created by Major Glen Wilhelm, IN, Ord Dept 1916) for the 1903 Springfield using 1905 Ammo (2700 FPS).

At 1400 yards this round drifts 4 feet. 1600 it drifts 6 feet (doesn't list 1500 yards)

From what the OP says, he uses a better bullet and higher velocities then the 1905 30 cal ammo.

To me, just thinking drift alone, the .7 mil should be close.

Problem is a 2 mph wind (which would be hard to detect at 1500 yards) would move the bullet about the same distance.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Spin drift, like gravity drop and aerodynamic drag, is a simple fact of life. It requires an adjustment to bring POA to POI.

Bigwheels, your barrel does not 'shoot straight', at least, if it's rifled.

The simple fact is most people simply include all horizontal drift effects into the wind call, because if you hit, you accounted for it, even if it was not deliberate on your part.

I like to dial on spin and CE. It's not because it's such a large value, it's not really. It helps to generate a good wind call. I want the gun to be 'zeroed' for windage. Would you want to shoot a 1 MOA target at 1000 yards with the gun set to 1 MOA RIGHT at 100? I doubt it. You want the gun to be set to zero windage. Yet this is what is actually happening, the gun is effectively off zero. Now for most people and most ranges and target sizes, the value is small enough that it's lost in the noise of wind, aiming error and shooter errors.

Even if your shooting ability and aiming ability are not a problem, you build the compensation into your wind call.

Since I shoot and observe many different rounds/rifles/shooters in many different locations, I like to simplify the process.

Since I normally have nothing but visual cues to get the wind, I'd like to have those cues mean the same thing no matter if its left-to-right or right-to-left. Since I use the computer for ELR shots, and the computer can precisely compute the horizontal effect at the same time it's giving me the elevation, it's not an extra step or big chore to account for it. So now, when I see what looks like 8 mph of crosswind value, I hold that amount, L or R it's the same. If I did not dial on the SD/CE value, I would have to add or subtract from the wind, even if it's subconsious. What looks like 8 from R-L would need to appear like more, and if L-R it would need to appear to be less. Even if the physical effects (mirage, flags, dust, etc) look EXACTLY the same, the end result is NOT.

This is what most shooters really do, even if they don't realize what it is they are doing. They learn to adjust differently, and if they don't they just presume they were wrong, then adjust off the miss and drive on.

If you are new to the game, I will tell you in class to dial on the effects that can be computed, put the gun on actual zero for the given range. This just makes learning to make a good wind call that much easier.

In the end, it's still all about the shooter executing the shot. However, the more we can reduce the complexity and variables, the better the results will be overall.

Now, the OP's original question I compute closer to .4 or .5 for spin alone, but I don't have the bullet length and BC handy for that particular bullet. .7 might be SD and CE combined, but it's a lot for spin alone.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I beg to differ sir. I have had several opportunities to shoot @ 700-1000 yd in calm conditions with patches of fog lingering down range. I can attest that the fog wasn't moving , & the muzzle smoke was also hanging in front of the ffp so there couldn't be any wind. With my old brl I needed to account for spin drift, but with this brl I will hit left. As I understand it spin drift is caused by the angle of repose that the bullet settles into, & that is caused by the crown as much as spin so it's as much a result of the brl as spin. I read this in an article somewhere on spin drift. Don't remember who wrote it.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I know this spin drift argument can last an eternity, and this may be a silly, simple, or stupid question, but wouldn't spin drift be already factored into your windage (azimuth) zero? Another words, just for the sake of argument, if spin drift has 0.01% influence on the bullets drift at 100-yards, will it be linear, and cause a 0.10% affect at 1000-yards, 0.15% at 1500-yards, etc.? If this is true, why must it be calculated if you're already corrected for it?
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Bigwheels, spin drift is dictated by twist rate and bullet length/stability factor. Perhaps the old barrel was a different twist rate, in any event, fog or not, spin drift was present. No matter what you do to the crown, if the bullet exits stable and remains stable, the rotational and Magnus forces will put it nose up and tip to the right (for right hand twist) and it WILL therefore drift right. At 1000 yards, that may be from 5 to 10 inches of drift, depending on twist rate and bullet. That's not much really, and even if your group was perfectly centered, how many shots in the group and what size is the group? You really need 20 or more shots into less than 1 MOA to see that, which is of course why most people simply ignore it altogether. Just a little cant or scope not tracking perfectly vertical can move you that much. Pretty easy to think it's not there at all. When TOF extends to 3 seconds, spin drift is a big enough factor that you MUST do something, even if you don't actually know you are doing it.

Alpine, the only spin that's 'corrected' is at your zero range, which for most of us is 100 yards. At 100, it's less than the bullet diameter. As the bullet travels farther and slows down, the drift increases and the 'zero' does not have that built in. A 6-DOF calculation for a 175gr MatchKing at 1000 yards from a 1 in 12 twist barrel is 9.85" and a 1 in 9 twist is 13.08" (Bryan Litz, Applied Ballistcs). So, with a 100 yard zero dialing up to 1000 (assuming vertical reticle movement and no shooter cant), you'll be off on windage by that amount.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

If it were already corrected for your zero @ 100 yds, it will still bring your bullet right at longer ranges because your .01% @ 100 yds is accounted for , but .10% will still be to the right of your line of sight. Your zero is still just a place where your poa, & poi are in the same place at a known distance.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

In my above post mentioned 1905 30 cal ammo. It's 1906 ammo with a 1905 sight.

Anyway:

[qute]calculation for a 175gr MatchKing at 1000 yards from a 1 in 12 twist barrel is 9.85" and a 1 in 9 twist is 13.08"[/quote]

That' pretty close to what Major Wilhelm gave for the M1906 Ball ammo used in Machine Guns. He states the drift is 12 inches at 1000 yards.

Odd these guys figured it out without all the fancy computers/
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

CoryT. I do agree that there is spin drift, & that it must be accounted for @ long range. I should have said that the angle of repose, along with gyroscopic drift is the cause of the drift, & that some brls/loads will enhance it more than others. The times I have been out with verified no wind days were few, & far between, like maybe 5 days in the past 10+ yrs, & the tw of the 2 brls was listed as the same, & the groups were about 3.5"-4" @ 700 yd. I can't explain why I have less to none with this brl, & needed about 1 moa @ 1000 with the old one. The article I referred to was done with high speed camera footage, etc to provide reference, but it was a long time ago, & I can't find it now. I can only post my experience with these 2 brls, & the fact that if I make any correction for SD with this brl/load I will be assured a miss left by the amount I adjusted for it.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

The problem is, and I know everyone & their brother can debate what the books and computer says, but the<span style="font-weight: bold"> "human factor"</span> overrides anything calculated for drift.

Anytime I have spoken to any one about data collected from a fixture shoot versus shot by a human it doesn't line up... taken that one step farther.

At a class we zeroed a rifle in a mechanical rest @ 100 yards. The rifle was zeroed to the scope with as little Human input as possible.

We then had 10 students from the class shoot at 10 1" dots at 100 yards to include 1 left handed shooter.

The results were 4" of horizontal variation from shooter to shooter. Some hit the 1" dot, some hit as far as 2" to either side to include the left side. So once you figure in the <span style="text-decoration: underline">human factor</span> your personal <span style="font-style: italic">"Shooter drift"</span> can easily add too or eclipse the recorded (calculate) SD. So saying that a bullet will drift 9 or 10 inches from center at 1000 yards is great, but without knowing the Human Factor Calculation or Shooter Drift... you're guessing. Also without knowing the "exact" twist of your barrel, and not what the manufacturer says, but what it really is, you can easily be off as well. If the program you are using does not calculate the stability factor and is not adding in the twist rate, all it is doing is giving you a flat rate that falls within an area they hope you won't notice.

Does it work, sure, but the <span style="text-decoration: underline">Human Factor</span> is bigger than both SD and Wind in 90% of the cases out there, so saying 1 MOA works for Bob, Joe, Bill, Tom, Steve, etc simply doesn't work. Which is why there is so much debate.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"Shooter drift"</div></div>

That's the answer, that's what we should be working on.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

That's as good an answer as any. When I re-barreled my rifle, I also changed stocks, & did a bedding job as well, so I guess it's just as likely to be my new position, or recoil characteristics, as anything else.
So to the OP. If you are hitting the target @ 1500yd with .7 mil adjusted for SD, then go with it. A hit is a hit, & the bullet doesn't lie.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

LL, was that test done at RO during a PR3A class?
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I'm still amazed that everyone is able to get their scopes tracking vertically that perfectly when cranking in that much elevation. I'm sure someone on here can calculate how little cant it would take at that distance to be off .7 mil if everything else was perfect? I track mine on a verticle line thru way more than I'll need to 1000 yards with our guns and still even a few thousandths of an inch off that would be hard to see with the naked eye on our target line could be enough to cause that miss that you are thinking is your wind drift.

We've been at the range with other shooters that really take the time to set their scopes up as best they can and we all shoot similiar calibers/loads and some are always putting in more wind when others don't. Still think a lot of it is slight variations in scope setup and shooter variances.

I'm sure the drift may be real at those distances but like LL and others are saying, human factor will always be the major factor even if everything else is factored in and perfect.

Topstrap
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

LB3 sent out a free upgrade today to users (btw great to get free upgrades...love that feature from Gus)...i can't say i've studied up on the change from the original but i suppose this also goes to show there is more than one way to calculate twist and stability so even after shooter drift there appears to be different approaches to calculating stability factor depending on bullet type...

In the TWIST & STABILITY feature, a new and improved algorithm for calculating the necessary Stability Factor is included. It’s based on the latest work by Don Miller and Michael Courtney and basically addresses the polymer-tipped bullets, for a much more precise SF value.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

"Does that help?"

In the Northern hemisphere, yes... but since neither SD, nor CE manifest as a linear function of projectile drift, you will have no way of knowing exactly how much without some very specific information about the individual projectile/barrel combination.

Not only rpm, air density, and velocity decay, factor in, but engraving footprint, depth, groove count, and projectile bearing type... a jacketed bullet will display more spin-drift than an engraving-band layout.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I'm going to skip the "no wind" part. I live in Wyoming.
</div></div>

The raw truth of this made me chuckle a little. I have seen a couple of no-wind days in WY, but have never been fortunate enough to be shooting on one of them.

Casey
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chanlynn put a left hand twist barrel on mine. Does that help? </div></div>
It wont hurt.
SD and CE are added together in the Northern Hemisphere with a right twist. Down here we get left drift with CE so it reduces the overall effect. Your left twist barrel will have the same effect up north. Makes the total so low that I can never see the effect of drift even in the "No wind" days that we get down here quite a lot during March till June.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

It doesn't make sense to me to ignore a source of error just because there are also other sources of error.

That said, at the ranges I shoot at, spin drift isn't a large enough value for me to be overly concerned about it.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

It's only an error if your personal shooting style makes it an error, or if you are shooting from a fixture which none of us are doing. In fact with some it can actually help center the shot.

The idea it is error is assuming everyone is shooting on the same center line with no deviations in technique, or scope / bore alignment, but experience says we're doing things slightly different from one another, so until we all get laser straight systems and techniques, this "error" is debatable.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's only an error if your personal shooting style makes it an error, or if you are shooting from a fixture which none of us are doing. In fact with some it can actually help center the shot.

The idea it is error is assuming everyone is shooting on the same center line with no deviations in technique, or scope / bore alignment, but experience says we're doing things slightly different from one another, so until we all get laser straight systems and techniques, this "error" is debatable. </div></div>

I've seen a repeatable 1 MOA horizontal shift at 100 yards depending on what clothing I'm wearing, and how I'm wearing it. The idea that SD or various other minor variables matter, even at those distances, is nothing but a hopeful conceit.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

If SD can "help center the shot", is that also a "conceit"?

The notion that small errors are without consequence within a budget containing more significant budget items is fallacious when seen within the context of hit probability.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

How can one devise a hit probability without factoring in the shooter?

I can upset any SD considered hit and adjustment model simply by inserting a left handed shooter into the mix. While the average right handed shooter will tend to pull the shot right, which plays into the need and visualization of an SD adjustment. A left handed shooter does the opposite and pushes the shot left, negating it.

I have witnessed 20 shooters all shooting the same rifle and ammo at 1000 yards under the same conditions have a 2 Mil variation in their windage to hit the same target. This is 70" of variation across the line, to say they can and should utilize a sub MOA adjustment and it will work for each and every shooter is unrealistic.

The human factor, over shadows it all and any model not figuring it speaks only to a minority of people.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Wow....

Shit like this is why we need more trigger time and less keyboard time folks.

If what you are doing works, then work it. If it doesn't then change it. Don't let math and theory get in the way of putting lead on target.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Frank,

Of course you cannot devise a hit probability without including the shooter, but even a poor marksman will have an enhanced probability of hitting a target by eliminating smaller error budget items, they will simply constitute a relatively less significant percentage of the error... unless, of course, the shooter is so bad that he adds *zero* bias in hitting the target (the shots are absolutely random in all directions).

The more precise the shooter, the greater the observed effect of small error elimination. Shooting style is totally irrelevant, as mentioned already, SD is not a linear function of drift.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's only an error if your personal shooting style makes it an error, or if you are shooting from a fixture which none of us are doing. In fact with some it can actually help center the shot.

The idea it is error is <span style="font-weight: bold">assuming everyone is shooting on the same center line with no deviations in technique, or scope / bore alignment</span>, but experience says we're doing things slightly different from one another, <span style="font-weight: bold">so until we all get laser straight systems and techniques</span>, this "error" is debatable. </div></div>

It's called a level. If you can shoot straight up a plumb line at 100 yards, then you'll be perfectly vertical all the way out with the only deflections being spin drift and wind. You don't need lasers or magic or perfect technique, paying attention to a simple $30 level will keep you straight.

Using a properly installed level will allow you to shoot straight up the plumb line the same weather you're left handed or right handed. After that, dial on the *known* spin drift for the range you're shooting. <span style="text-decoration: underline">Now it's just you and the wind</span>. When you get it narrowed down to the true cause-effect relationship of horizontal deflection, it's amazing how quickly average shooters become overnight masters at reading wind! All of a sudden everything makes sense because what they see is a direct result of wind, and only wind. Not wind plus an unknown cant, plus an un-corrected spin drift which makes it nearly impossible to observe a repeatable result and learn the actual wind.

Don't get me wrong, learning to read wind is still hard, but it's amazing how quickly it can be learned when you put a level on your rifle and eliminate the +/- 15" of random 'shooter drift' and account for known influences like spin drift.

-Bryan
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

What LoneWolf said,only double !
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

"Don't let math... get in the way."...

This is a really bad idea. Range time that can attribute the inexplicable to the gods is not a formula for enhanced shooting skills.

I am in complete agreement with Bryan.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

If the shooter can't execute the firing task properly, then most anything we correct for has little meaning. The solution is not to ignore the corrections, but fix the shooter.

If there is a 2 Mil variation in holds with the same rifles and ammo, some shooters need an adjustment. Even if it gets a hit, it's still wrong and needs to be addressed.

In some prior threads we all agreed that mechanical zero is zero, it does not change for other shooters. If it does, there is a shooter problem, and the real fix is not to reset the knobs on the scope.

Seriously, if I get assigned to someone as a spotter, and he tells me "I yank about 1.5 MOA right, so you'll want to adjust your wind calls for that", should I suggest he get a left twist barrel to even that out?

The physics of the shot are just that, it's math, and there is AN answer, not an answer that works for you. If you can't apply the fundamentals and get the answer to work, it's not the math that's flawed.

Factoring in the shooter just means we account for the percentage of time the shooter fails to execute properly. If the rifle/ammo combo produces 1/2 MOA groups at a given range, then a 100% shooter would hit a 1 MOA target 100% of the time, presuming all variables like wind were properly accounted for in the solution. If the shooter only executes 50% of the, then under the best of conditions you can only expect a 50% hit rate. The solution is still correct. Certain variables, like wind, cannot be precisely measured, so there is some error there, along with potential range and angle errors. We cannot know the actual velocity for a given shot, nor the actual drag of the bullet. The solution forms the CEP, circular error probable. Our job as a shooter is to center that CEP on the target each and every time. The more often you do that, the more often you hit. If you ignore spin drift, you are moving the CEP away from center, therefore reducing your hit probability. How much depends on the size of the CEP, the target size and the amount of drift.

Try this. At 2000 yards, 1 MOA is 20.94". Make a 21" circle from a piece of cardboard. Now center that on an IPSC target, 18"x24" in the body. If you are perfect, there is still a percentage chance you miss, since the bullet can land anywhere in that circle and some of the circle is not on the target. At 2000 yards, spin and CE for a 250gr Scenar at 2970fps is about 41", depending on latitude, etc. Move the center of the circle 41" to the right. How much is on the target now? 1 mph of wind is about 17" of drift, so spin and CE are about 2.4 times more in value that a 1 mph wind value. Even if you are a perfect shot and make a perfect wind call, what's the percentage chance of making the shot. If you put in the SD and CE, a 1 MPH error still leaves some chance of a hit. If not, you need to make a 2.5 mph error in the wind call, TO THE LEFT, or you have about 0% chance.

This is what I mean about lack of correction screwing with your wind calls. You need to see the exact same downrange indcators with a 2.5 mph differance if it's L-R or R-L. It's hard enough to see what the wind is doing, you really want to make it MORE complicated?

Now, if you keep yanking the trigger, or have a chronic flinch, PIP, or other shooter error, please ignore all this right now and get to a class and get it fixed, because until that's done, this does not matter.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't get me wrong, learning to read wind is still hard, but it's amazing how quickly it can be learned when you put a level on your rifle and eliminate the +/- 15" of random 'shooter drift' and account for known influences like spin drift.</div></div>

Crap, that explains a lot, I've seen, hell I've done that. Damn I'm stupid.

Years ago when I was coaching for the Guard we use to shoot against a team of bolt gunners. I could read the wind as well as the best of them THROUGH THE TEAM SCOPE, but when it comes to actual shooting, they'd get me in the wind department.

Never dawned on my untl I read Bryan's post, AND IT SHOULD HAVE. Those bolt guns had levels on their front sight. I was shooting a service rifle (M14/M1A).

It don't take much of a cant at 1000 yards with a 308. A simple non-detectable cant moving your sights 0.015 would put you off 20 inches (2 moa) which is about the same as a 5 MPH wind.

Crap I feel dumb.

 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

A level cannot fix trigger control, and most shooters cannot self diagnose a problem.

What your saying is a level fixes a poor technique, which it does not, what a level can do is in fact tell a shooter level is not the correct position and I heard Davis Tubb tell someone this same thing. If you level the gun and level the scope and every time you address the rifle you find the level is always off the same way, that is telling the shooter their position needs to be adjusted for and needs to be off level. The level is in fact giving them a clue which people are ignoring. You can level the scope on a slightly adjusted gun to allow the shooter to naturally hold the rifle otherwise they will simply move the rifle when they are not looking at the level and introduce a cant because level is the straight up and down position and the shooter is not designed that way.

You can level the scope but not need to level the gun.

Still none of this addresses trigger control and interestingly while most good shooters know it is the most important with the greatest cause and effect. The idea you can level it away makes no sense.

90% of the shooters out there have a series of issues and may never get to an instructor so the idea you can fix them with a level or expect them to execute the firing task even 75% is a bit unrealistic. Turning on SD in their iPhone App isn't gonna increase their hit rate unless it is just compensating for their lack of technique.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I read it that Bryan was saying a level will help fix cant.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Frank,

Slightly adjusting the gun, at an angle different than the scope, will create a system that is "slightly" (but increasingly) inaccurate the further you diverge from the point blank range.

I aknowledge the problem that you are describing, but the solution is an adjustable butt/cheek-piece.

I don't think Bryan was implying that rifle cant is the only source of shooter error.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

I never said a word about canting the rifle... if you look further up I also mentioned a test at 100 yards where cant wasn't a factor but a 4 inch variation was present across 10 shooters... that is trigger control.

Now that everyone is selling levels, the answer is more and more "canting" instead of trigger control because there is no $50 fix someone can sell for that. Once they figure it out, you'll see it shift.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

If a guy is shooting a big group because of poor technique, jerking the trigger, etc, I agree, a level won't fix that. Big groups at 100 yards is a shooter problem. But that's not what I'm talking about.
I'm saying if a guy shoots a 1/2" group at 100 yards, dead center on his POA, then dials up 30 MOA and shoots another 1/2" group 2" right or left of the plumb line (consistent cant), or worse yet, shoots a 1/2" tall group that's +/-2" from the plumb line (inconsistent cant) that IS a problem that will be corrected by using a properly installed level.

If you're (Frank) truly advocating that levels are simply 'gimics' with little to no value in long range shooting, then we'll just have to agree to disagree. I'm OK with that, we've left things like that before after both sharing our thoughts. It's the point of a public forum.

Show up at any long range conventional or F-class match and count how many rifles you see without levels. From being involved in that dicipline for many years, I can tell you 2 things you'll see:
1)it will be a small number
2)most of the shooters without levels will be among the beginner ranks.

-Bryan
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

If you say so Noel, better call McBros and tell them the Tubb 2000 is in accurate with its built in cant, as much as 10 degrees.

While i agree most should adjust the stock, most stocks don't give the the shooter than much adjustability. And the adjustment necessary is usually less than 3 degree from center, so adjusting you're not offsetting the bore enough to matter because you are leveling the scope to the fall of gravity.

Then again this thread is not about cant... is it.
 
Re: Spin Drift at 1500 yards

Bryan

So you're saying you never saw a person with poor trigger control but good groups ? Okay, I have seen plenty of people tap the trigger and not follow through at all and yet still group well, they tend to fall apart further out, and most of the time those guys are not shooting as far. the average range in the US is like 200 yards.

I never said it was a gimmick, it's a tool, if you want to use it, good for you, I find it a distraction and something I don't need. if I decide to venture into F Class I can always revisit that, but for what i do, my chosen discipline it;s not necessary. I will also say, owning and mounting a level doesn't mean you are actually using the level for its intended purpose.

I saw the use of levels increase 10 fold at the last SHC and took note of their use, short story the scores did not reflect the addition to a persons rifle and several people at the time of the shot were actually not level according to the level because we subconsciously move after looking at it. We relax and fall into a natural position.

I often wonder reading this stuff why, 1.) the USMC Manuals never included any of this after all these years, and 2.) How I ever managed to graduate sniper school not dialing SD or leveling my rifle with a bubble, after all the qual was too 1000 yards.