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SPR Bugnut vs Bighorn Barrel Nut: Can I really go wrong?

Xander3Zero

Just a normal dude.
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 10, 2017
499
284
Rhode Island
Okay, so I have come to a bit of a mental stalemate in determining a barrel setup for a new rifle I am building, and am curious what decision the wise Hide members would make...

I am planning to build a 223 on a Bighorn TL-3 and dropping it into a Manners T4A w/ mini-chassis. Bighorn is already on order, and the T4A will be on order shortly after I determine my barrel setup. My plan for the rifle is to be used as a target/bench/fun rifle while still maintaining the future capability to switch barrels without having to send out the rifle for any 'smithing work. My local range is only 300 yards, so I am building it in 223 Rem first, and leaving myself the capability to just order another bolt head and barrel in the future.

Here's my dilemma: I am torn between going with Southern Precision Rifle's Bugnut system, or using Bighorn's new 12-point barrel nut. With EITHER system, I am currently planning on having Greg @ SPR do the chambering work on a Bartlein barrel finished at 20-22".

Option 1:
Bartlein 1:7.7 twist, 5R rifling, Rem. Varmint or M24 profile, using Greg's Bugnut.

Option 2:
Bartlein 1:7.7 twist, 5R Rifling, Savage Small Shank Varmint or Target profile, using Bighorn's 12-point nut.

The cost for either option comes out to roughly the same amount. $335 (Barrel) + $180/160 (chambering bugnut/savage) + $40 (bugnut/bighorn nut).

The only real difference is that with the Bugnut I am pretty sure I will have to remove the scope rail on the TL-3 to give me access to removing the nut, whereas I don't think this is necessary with the Bighorn nut. This still isn't that much of a big deal to me, because I don't even anticipate using it as a switch barrel setup for at least a year or so. I do like that I can use standard contours with Greg's Bugnut and it is a very low profile design.

Any opinions or advice? Also, what do people think about finishing a M24 or Savage Target contour at 20-22"? Will this just look ridiculous? I mainly shoot from a bench and prone, would not be used for hunting. No PRS or action shooting at this time, but would maybe like to try it out at some point (nothing near me locally, but I foresee a move in my near future). The reason for keeping it to 20-22" is again because my local range is only 300 yards and it is convenient for storage/transportation to keep the rifle at the "handy" length.
 
I've got a similar build in progress. At the moment the plan to go with a PVA shouldered barrel for the Bighorn. No barrels nuts to mess with, just torque it on and go. I'm sure your smith could do the same with your Bartlein barrel.

http://patriotvalleyarms.com/replacement-match-barrel-bighorn-arms-tl3-origin-receiver/

My only hesitation with going with a PVA shouldered barrel is that I know Josh is moving shops and has a metric shit-ton of work lined up. I am worried that a 4-6 week lead time could turn into 5 months or more (not bashing PVA, just know that he is a very busy man, and in high demand). Right now I am looking at 8-10wks for the TL-3, 6 weeks for a Manners flat top, and 6 weeks for prefit work from SPR. I also just feel that getting myself setup with a barrel nut is a good move towards never having to send receivers to gunsmiths and dealing with long lead times again.
 
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Understandable, I'm not on any sort of timeline myself.

You can always go with a barrel nut on the next barrel if you decide to go shouldered on this one. You really can't go wrong with any of those options.
 
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I think part of my decision-making problem is that I know I can't really go wrong with any of these options. I am pretty confident that a Bartlein spun up by SPR will shoot, regardless of how it is attached to the receiver.
 
Depending on the barrel bore diameter etc the bugnut might be better I just ordered one as the savage profile Bartleins are not always in stock (I was going 7mm). Otherwise just go with either unless you have a profile preference.
 
A bugnut barrel has been to this day the most accurate ive had. That's not saying a whole lot since i havent had many custom rifles but it was really good. However, i doubt it had anything to do with the nut and more to do with the fact that it was Bartlein, and was chambered by SPR. So if youre getting it chambered by SPR anyways, then it truly comes down to aesthetic appeal.
The Bugnut looks better. But the Bighorn nut allows changing with the rail you say? Id say if you dont plan to do much barrel switching... Bugnut. Its a close choice but thatd be my vote! Simply because i thought id be swapping my barrels a ton once i got a nut setup, and i actually never did lol. Just being able to do barrel swaps at home is convenient enough for me. Ill already be needing tools and time, so removing a scope+base is not really that bad, or worth the aesthetic sacrifice imo.
But ymmv. You may not think the Bighorn nut to be bad looking. In which case, take that route!
 
A bugnut barrel has been to this day the most accurate ive had. That's not saying a whole lot since i havent had many custom rifles but it was really good. However, i doubt it had anything to do with the nut and more to do with the fact that it was Bartlein, and was chambered by SPR. So if youre getting it chambered by SPR anyways, then it truly comes down to aesthetic appeal.
The Bugnut looks better. But the Bighorn nut allows changing with the rail you say? Id say if you dont plan to do much barrel switching... Bugnut. Its a close choice but thatd be my vote! Simply because i thought id be swapping my barrels a ton once i got a nut setup, and i actually never did lol. Just being able to do barrel swaps at home is convenient enough for me. Ill already be needing tools and time, so removing a scope+base is not really that bad, or worth the aesthetic sacrifice imo.
But ymmv. You may not think the Bighorn nut to be bad looking. In which case, take that route!

Thanks for your opinion. One of the aesthetics that I like about the 12-point nut is that no matter where it "times" when tightened it should look pretty good, whereas the Bugnut could look a little un-symmetrical once it is installed due to only have 6 flats.

I guess it really comes down to what contour I want to run. I am really on the fence whether I want to run a varmint profile, or a heavy taper like the M24 or Savage Target. Can't tell if the M24/Target will look goofy when its finished 20-22".
 
Shucks I've only ever had varmint/Med-Palma contours. I've never felt the need to go thicker. But since you say it's mostly just going to be a range gun and you won't be walking with it much at all, then I guess anything goes! As far as looks go, I don't mind the look of a stubby M24 contour, but some people do think it looks a little strange. And of course, I think a varmint @ 20-22 inches would look more natural, so I would personally go that route, but like I say, that's because I've never really cared much for any thicker to begin with.
If you plan to maybe get another barrel down the road anyways though (especially if you decide to take up some PRS action) in which case you'd get a varmint profile-ish barrel, then I'd get the M24 contour for now, just so you can have both lol.
 
Shucks I've only ever had varmint/Med-Palma contours. I've never felt the need to go thicker. But since you say it's mostly just going to be a range gun and you won't be walking with it much at all, then I guess anything goes! As far as looks go, I don't mind the look of a stubby M24 contour, but some people do think it looks a little strange. And of course, I think a varmint @ 20-22 inches would look more natural, so I would personally go that route, but like I say, that's because I've never really cared much for any thicker to begin with.
If you plan to maybe get another barrel down the road anyways though (especially if you decide to take up some PRS action) in which case you'd get a varmint profile-ish barrel, then I'd get the M24 contour for now, just so you can have both lol.

Who would have thought that the decision that would hang me up would be the barrel profile... lol.

I think I've decided to go the route of the Bighorn 12-point nut so that I can have access to the nut with the rail installed and I think the DLC'd nut will blend in nicely with the DLC'd TL-3. Also my GF pointed out that the profile of the 12-point nut kinda blends/transitions with the fluting of the bolt, whereas the flats on the Bugnut tend to do the opposite. You know your torn when you have to request assistance from your girlfriend haha.

So at this point I now need to decide on a Savage Varmint or a Savage Target contour. I'll make the decision eventually...
 
Huh. I never considered how the nut looked with the Bighorn fluting... She has a good eye! I know how you feel though. I ask all my friends and family before deciding on gun stuff. Drives them nuts.
I think the logic behind going with the Bighorn nut is solid so go for that! As for contour... No clue lol. But these are good problems to have!
 
Ending up coming a full 180° and ordered a shouldered prefit for my TL-3 from Greg at SPR. Going to be a 22" M24 contour using his 223 reamer. Greg was great to deal with, answered all my questions and he's timely with email/phone response. For a one-man shop, he is on top of the process. Also placed an order for a T4A from Manners, so now I play the waiting game... really excited to get this all put together.
 
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Nice, yeah for the TL-3, shouldered pre-fits is what I prefer. I can't believe i didn't recomend them first, guess I just thought it was already ruled out. Congrats! Post pics when it's done!
 
Just curious, why not consider the ARC Barloc? You wouldn't need an action wrench or a special wrench for the nut. All it takes is an Allen wrench and it properly loads the tenon threads. I'd agree your choices are better looking but the Barloc is pure function and maybe deserves a chance?
 
Just curious, why not consider the ARC Barloc? You wouldn't need an action wrench or a special wrench for the nut. All it takes is an Allen wrench and it properly loads the tenon threads. I'd agree your choices are better looking but the Barloc is pure function and maybe deserves a chance?

Aesthetics are certainly important to me when putting up this kind of money to build a rifle. I also think that the rail of the TL-3 may interfere with the Barloc because of the way it extends forward of the receiver face.

Another thing to consider is that no one has any idea when Barloc's will be shipping out, and I am looking to be shooting this rifle in 2-3 months or so. I am not big on purchasing something without having an expected lead time. This will be a dream rifle for me, and I aimed for tried and true components. As much as I appreciate ARC's innovation in this field, and believe the Barloc will prove to be a reliable design, I usually stray from relatively new concepts. This rifle probably won't see much "switch-barreling" except to replace a shot out barrel or to maybe change calibers in a year or two, so a shouldered prefit fit the bill.
 
Another thing to consider is that no one has any idea when Barloc's will be shipping out,

This is killing me. Don't create this awesome product and make me wait!!!!
I just picked up a TL3 and I'm in the same boat. I would like to use my rig as a switch barrel. I've ordered a Bighorn 12pt barrel nut to use in the mean time until my ARC Barloc shows up.

Good luck,
Ross
 
Have Greg machine two flats at the muzzle so you can remove and install the barrel with a torque wrench and not have to remove the action from the chassis.

Also, Manners mini-chassis. Don't be surprised if you have to bed it. When you get your stock, install the action and torque it down. Then slowly release the front Action screw while watching the point where it meets or dissapears into the stock. If the action raises up it's stressed into the v-block.

I'm not worried about having to remove the BA from the chassis to change barrels, it won't be happening that often anyways.

As far as the mini-chassis goes, I have read a lot of conflicting information regarding that sort of information. Just the other day I saw a post from Tom Manners about the design of their v-block and that it was by design that the front of the action will lift up slightly when you loosen the front screw. I believe he mentioned it being about using select contact points to work with the tolerances of the action body. I am going to try and see if I can find this old thread...

If the rifle shoots, then I am not going to worry about bedding it. The whole point of me getting the mini-chassis is so that I can drop other actions into it down the road if I want to.

EDIT: Here is the link to the thread I mentioned above, Tom Manners' post is #5.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/manners-mini-chassis-bedding-no-need-pics-added.105500/

Also from searching about bedding vs. mini-chassis, etc, etc... there is obviously quite a bit of debate on the topic. The theme of this build is to limit gunsmith costs and wait times, hence ordering a mini-chassis stock, and a prefit barrel. Its also a bonus to me to have a non-bedded stock that I can put another action in, or sell if I decide to change routes.
 
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I have had three chassis in which the action raised up in the v block and every time I bedded them they shot better. In some cases they had a cold bore issue and the bedding solved it and in every case accuracy improved. I don't know what your standard for accuracy is, you may not notice the difference.

I read his post but all he is explaining is that they're making a general-purpose vblock to try to fit all the different deviations in the various actions out there. That would not give me confidence.

If the action raises up in the chassis when you release the front action screw that means the action is bending....

But you do what you need to do. I just thought it would be worth mentioning to you so you could have a look at it when you got everything in hand

No problem, I appreciate the heads up. Curious if you bedded the chassis yourself, or had someone else do it? I have read that bedding a mini-chassis is kinda stupid because you basically have to put enough bedding in there to raise the receiver up off the v-block completely, at which point the chassis is not doing anything at all. I've read that if you plan to bed, you should just get pillars instead.