Anyone had any luck painting a stainless steel rifle barrel? I’m looking for a very durable matte black finish.
- Thread starter Crews
- Start date
I sprayed a stainless tikka with krylon and then put a matte clear coat on it. Seems to be very durable.
I've used multiple thin layers of ceramic BBQ grill paint and it's held up well but it hasn't seen much use or abuse either.
If you're not gonna get it Cerakoted the right way, then I'd take a hard look at Brownell's Alumahyde 2. I use that shit for when I need to make an FDE part black or a black part FDE. Almost as good as Cerakote but in spray can, much tougher than regular spray paint.
But my preferred method was to take the barrel down to this shop used to bead blast 'em for me. I'd prep it and he'd just blast it. Took a couple minutes and done. Call around. It leaves a dull gray color, and if still wanted to paint it, well, now you have a good surface for it. If you went that route, then they make a spray on Cerakote, one that bakes on and one that doesn't IIRC...
Stay away from Duracoat, it doesn't work.
If you're not gonna get it Cerakoted the right way, then I'd take a hard look at Brownell's Alumahyde 2. I use that shit for when I need to make an FDE part black or a black part FDE. Almost as good as Cerakote but in spray can, much tougher than regular spray paint.
But my preferred method was to take the barrel down to this shop used to bead blast 'em for me. I'd prep it and he'd just blast it. Took a couple minutes and done. Call around. It leaves a dull gray color, and if still wanted to paint it, well, now you have a good surface for it. If you went that route, then they make a spray on Cerakote, one that bakes on and one that doesn't IIRC...
Stay away from Duracoat, it doesn't work.
I've had good luck with regular old Rustoleum. I think the trick is in the prep. Use a Scotch-brite to rough it up a little and then prime two coats lightly and then season to taste with the color. I usually go as many light coats as I think it needs to look how I want. I use brake clean or alcohol before the primer to make sure it's degreased as well. It's actually pretty tough at that point and only takes like 30 minutes of actual time.
Various manufacturers have stainless compatible paints. Self etching primers etc.
I don't know what the name of the finish on my rifle barrel is, but it looked stainless to me.
And then i did this to it...
And then i did this to it...
"Bead Blasting" leaves a rounded out finish and whatever paint you try and apply is compromised as far as adhesion is concerned.
The best prep is to blast with aluminum oxide, between 80 and 120 grit. It leaves a finish that will grip the paint, whereas beadblasting leaves a smooth finish and will not grip the applied paint.
Bead blasting makes stainless barrels look great, in the raw, but if you try and paint them, the finish will chip/rub off.
The best prep is to blast with aluminum oxide, between 80 and 120 grit. It leaves a finish that will grip the paint, whereas beadblasting leaves a smooth finish and will not grip the applied paint.
Bead blasting makes stainless barrels look great, in the raw, but if you try and paint them, the finish will chip/rub off.
Aluma Hyde II works great for me. Prep is key, as well as following the application tips.
I sprayed krylon fde on my sendero that has a stainless barrel. It seems to be sticking pretty well after a trip to the range. I did not want anything permanent and I wanted to be able to strip it off if down the road if I wanted to. I'm happy with the results.
I just did a barrel in alumyde this weekend. I followed directions, did all the prep and when I went to spray it was a sputtering mess. I stripped it again and reprepped, soaked the tip in acetone and tried again. Same thing. Tried a third time after soaking the can in warm water. It finally worked, but it took the rest of the can to get the barrel done and way more time than it was worth.
In all honesty, it's wound up being pretty forgiving and came out damn nice for a rattle can. I wouldn't mess with it again though, and if you do, buy the extra nozzles if ordering from Brownells. Next time I'm going to do it the "right" way with cerakote and a gun.
In all honesty, it's wound up being pretty forgiving and came out damn nice for a rattle can. I wouldn't mess with it again though, and if you do, buy the extra nozzles if ordering from Brownells. Next time I'm going to do it the "right" way with cerakote and a gun.
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