Starting Over Gear list

[Mojo0254]

So I did reloading many years ago and as I look at building my precision rifle I am comparing costs of reloading vs just buying ammunition. In doing my gathering of costs I want to make sure my below lists is accurate and would like to ask what am I missing vs what is not really needed. I will be reloading for 6GT so I realize finding components isn't really that easy right now and neither is 6GT Ammo but the hope is they will both become available fairly close together.

RCBS Rock Chucker
.308 shell plate
RCBS Charge Master Lite
Matchmaster Die Set
Magneto Speed Sporter
Reloading Block
Anti-Static Powder funnel
Digital Caliper
Comparitor
Bullet Puller
Primer flip Tray
Case lube
Brass
Bullets
Primers
Powder

So once again am I missing anything? Anything I don't really need?

 

[Graye2]

Immediately the only thing I see missing is something to clean your brass. Tumbler - wet or dry or ultrasonic. I have all 3. I wet tumble after depriming, dry tumble to remove lube. The ultrasonic is only used for gun parts now. As well as something to trim your brass. Tons of options and price points here. I use a Giraud but you can go a much cheaper route.

Nice to have will be an annealer. But once you get started you’ll find tons of additional equipment to buy and/or test. You’ll have to shoot a lot to “save money” and if you only shoot one caliber the math probably won’t work out.

That said I really like being able to dial in my load and I do so for multiple calibers but I’m never going to try and add up all the money I’ve spent on equipment and calculate how much factory ammo that would be just like I don’t add up how much I’ve spent on rifles.

 

[mheimer_45]

Also I’d skip on the chargemaster lite and get the match master or auto trickler.

 

[Mojo0254]

Immediately the only thing I see missing is something to clean your brass. Tumbler - wet or dry or ultrasonic. I have all 3. I wet tumble after depriming, dry tumble to remove lube. The ultrasonic is only used for gun parts now. As well as something to trim your brass. Tons of options and price points here. I use a Giraud but you can go a much cheaper route.

Nice to have will be an annealer. But once you get started you’ll find tons of additional equipment to buy and/or test. You’ll have to shoot a lot to “save money” and if you only shoot one caliber the math probably won’t work out.

That said I really like being able to dial in my load and I do so for multiple calibers but I’m never going to try and add up all the money I’ve spent on equipment and calculate how much factory ammo that would be just like I don’t add up how much I’ve spent on rifles.

So at current pricing not factoring in a dry tumbler I save about $500 at 1000 rounds. Now I’m not sure how often I will shoot yet so that 1000 rounds may take a year or so. As far as a trimmer goes I don’t plan on annealing so really only plan on shooting Hornady brass about 3 times then toss it in a bucket for “if I ever have an annealer”. Based on previous experience that’s not enough to worry about trimming either.

I’m also considering just buying 400 rounds and see how long it lasts. If I find myself needing ammo quickly then maybe I switch to reloading. If that 400 rounds lasts me 6-8 months maybe I just stick to factory ammo. Thanks for the input

 

[HemiPowrd]

You can seat primers with the Rock Chucker, but it's a pain to use. I'd recommend a separate primer seater.

 

[Dogtown]

And on primer seating, you can get by with all kinds of inexpensive options these days, but if you’re serious about precision you should consider something like the 21st Century hand primer. It’s a single primer tool (so one at a time by hand) but is adjustable and precise. Personally, I still use a tray-based hand primer for my run-n-gun loads, but all precision loads go through the 21st Century primer.

You also need a case trimmer. Lots of options there depending on what you want to spend. I hate have to setup the trimmer each time I use it, so I like using the a Little Crow Gunworks WTF trimmer. Its a unit you connect to a power drill and it indexes off of the brass shoulder for consistency. The WTF2 is modular so one unit can be used for many cartridges, but that defeats my purpose of wanting something I don’t have to set. If you’re only loading one or two cartridges this is an economical way to go.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Also I’d skip on the chargemaster lite and get the match master or auto trickler.

This. If you're really chasing precision, all roads lead to the autotrickler.

I'd also argue you don't need the magnetospeed. If the options were chronograph and CM vs no chrony and AT, I'd get the AT.

If you get a trimmer without a three way cutter, remember you're gonna have to chamfer and debur by hand too. It's a $6-9 tool, but kind of a pain.

Beyond the basics - upgrades will either buy a little precision, or your time back. I don't see a budget, but trimming and the autothrow bought me the biggest time savings. You can decide the $/minute that works for you - you may be better off with factory ammo. I never saved any money reloading, but I do shoot a lot more.

 

[SporterII]

400 once fired brass , in your chamber, is a good start. No rush to collect all this stuff. Just a thought.

 

[Krob95]

I went the autotrickler no chrono route. Granted my range has both a magnetospeed and a labradar for member use so I’ll just chrono there and do load dev. I had the chargemaster 1500 and it worked good enough for my 6BR but the auto trickler is infinitely better and I can have a charge thrown in 8-10 seconds vs 30 seconds or more with the chargemaster. I save about approx 40 minutes per 100 rounds with the AT.

 

[Ravenworks]

Are you a veteran or civil servant?
Sign up for the VIP program and save a minimum of 40% across the board to start.
If you PM the RCBS rep here I'm sure they'll give you a code to stack even more savings.
The VIP program also follows you throughout all the relative companies too (Bushnell Hoppes etc)

 

[Mojo0254]

Are you a veteran or civil servant?
Sign up for the VIP program and save a minimum of 40% across the board to start.
If you PM the RCBS rep here I'm sure they'll give you a code to stack even more savings.
The VIP program also follows you throughout all the relative companies too (Bushnell Hoppes etc)

View attachment 7665877

I am and I'm pretty sure the user agreement for the VIP program says you aren't supposed to disclose those prices.

 

[Yoteski]

Are you a veteran or civil servant?
Sign up for the VIP program and save a minimum of 40% across the board to start.
If you PM the RCBS rep here I'm sure they'll give you a code to stack even more savings.
The VIP program also follows you throughout all the relative companies too (Bushnell Hoppes etc)

View attachment 7665877

Usually companies don't appreciate their discount program prices being posted. Not sure about RCBS but just say'n.