Gunsmithing Stock Camo Finish

[woodsy]

For years I've been using Norrell's Moly Resin on all metal parts. I've had excellent luck with this finish so see no need to change.

Work now requires a focus on camo finishing stocks and Moly Resin offers limited options with regard to colors. Of course some will mention using Krylon but I'm interested in a more quality finish. Cerakote C Series seems the most logical choice but I have no experience with it. I realize some use the H Series for this application but I'm not comfortable applying that kind of heat to fiberglass stocks (Manners, Bell & Carlson, HS Precision) that have already been bedded.

Obviously I'm pretty green with regards to using CeraKote so any and all tips for applying this stuff (especially the C Series) for stock work would be appreciated.

 

[jasonfaz]

I've done my fair share of Cerakote jobs, and I can tell you that C Series won't give you the finish you're looking for. I haven't used the Gen II, but have used a bunch of the Gen I. It's night and day difference from how H Series will turn out. I use H Series for EVERYTHING now. You don't have to bake at 250-300. I put everything that is "heat sensitive" in at 160-170 for 45-60 mins and let cool for about 20 before another 60 mins at 160. Results are dramatically better than any C Series job that I've done or those I've seen from certified applicators. Trick would be finding an oven big enough with out having to drop a bunch of coin on something custom built for larger curing tasks...

 

[woodsy]

So I can use the H Series and cure at 160 degrees for an hour between coats and then do a final overall cure at the same temp and time? This method will result in a complete cure of the H Series? If this is true then I can handle that. The oven is not a problem.

 

[Gunsmith Dan]

Hi All.

I am a certified Cerakote Applicator and Gunsmith so I can answer some of your questions.

Cerakote is cured between 150 degrees F and 180 degrees F for Plastics and woods for 2 hours to get to a hardness that is good on plastics and woods. While C series is a good product the H series is actually harder and more durable with MANY more colors to choose from PLUS doing multiple layers for a Camo job is much easier. Cerakote is a very flexible coating and the lower cure time on plastics is enough to cure to a level that works for plastics. If you increase the time to 3 hours then you do get a hard cure which depending on the stock material might be better or worst. (fiber glass, carbon fiber longer cure, Nylon type shorter cure better). You a constant temp when curing or it will screw up the cure cycle. You want a steady (do not open and close the doors on the oven to much for to long) temp and when doing multiple coats make sure to remove tape/stencils while still warn then wait till cool to apply the next layer of stencils/tape and to coat it. The other thing to remember you have a 4 hour time window from the time you apply the first "flash cure" before Cerakote cures enough on it's own to prevent proper adhesion of the coats. Then you do a full 2 hour cure after the LAST layer has been coated to have a full cure of all layers ( last layer do a flash cure then remove all tape and stencils then allow 2 hour cure).

All of the major name and high end manufactures use high quality durable synthetics since depending on your situation a stock can reach temps of up to 200 degrees F if sitting in a car trunk in full sun. The only thing you need to do before applying Cerakote is get a cotton swab and dip it in Acetone of Nail Polish remover with Acetone in it and rub it in a interior spot. If you see plastic melting on the surface or rubbing off on the cotton swab DO NOT use Cerakote ( very rare for this to happen on stocks but better safer than sorry).

The flash cure between coats should be done around 150 to 180 degrees for both Metals, Plastics or woods for 20 to 30 minutes but not longer than 30 minutes (will affect adhesion to the lower layer).

ALWAYS wear powder free latex gloves (the powder in gloves causes defects in the finish) and make sure to not get the surface contaminated. If it does or you want to be extra sure use a lint free cloth dipped in Acetone and VERY lightly in one direction wipe the surface, flip to another clean side and wipe in one direction again.

 

[jasonfaz]

I would agree with what Dan said for the most part. I like to monitor the synthetics and polymers to be on the safe side and haven't had any issues with the curing process when doing so. That said, if I feel a synthetic can take 160 for 2-3 hours - which some can easily do - then I leave it in for the whole time and all has turned out good. Experience will show you what materials have what type of heat limits and how long they can withstand the high temps.

I'm not sure if Dan is suggesting that the only prep needed is an acetone soak or if he was just describing a way that you could test the strength/durability of any given synthetic. But to be clear, you absolutely need to sandblast synthetics and polymers as well as acetone soak just like the metals and aluminum parts. Back when I first started I tried to skip the blasting part of the prep on a batch of polymer and synthetic stocks and definitely regretted it. After redoing the whole batch from sandblasting with 80-100 grit alum oxide to acetone soak to cure the end result was night and day difference.

Sounds like you should be good to go - and yes - you can bake at lower heat and choose the duration of your curing bake based on the material. You'll be very pleased with the result.

That is a bad ass oven btw. Where did you find one that size?

 

[Gunsmith Dan]

No that was not for Prep that was a specific Acetone test for compatibility since some plastics used in firearms are NOT solvent resistant and will dissolve/melt if sprayed with a solvent based coating (like Cerakote).

When we do prep for our customers we:

Disassemble and put all parts into a degreasing tanks and scrub to get all the heavy crud, grease and wax off (Acetone not really good at cleaning some types of greases and wax).

Then we soak in Brake Cleaner ( as recommended by Cerakote) because pure Acetone not strong enough to completely remove some oils.

The we Sand Blast with Aluminum Oxide

The we dry brush (completely decontaminated and used only for this purpose) and air blast the parts to get ALL dust off (sometimes a fine dust layer forms and air blasting alone will not remove it).

Heat Degassing ( both to remove any trapped gasses as well as to allow trapped oils to wick out) at 300 degrees for 1 hour on Metals and at 150 to 180 degrees for 1 hour on plastics.

If any oil leaks out back to solvent cleaning.

That is the Prep part we do for a completely contamination free surface and best possible adhesion for Cerakote.

 

[jasonfaz]

Gotcha. That's what I figured, just making sure..... and to OP, Dan's outline of the prep process is SPOT ON. If you follow that, your Cerakote jobs will turn out perfect. They'll look like they came that way from the factory. Maybe better!

 

[woodsy]

Awesome! Thanks for the help guys! I need to order a few more colors but I'm looking forward to getting some of these stocks done.

Jason - I had messed around with small kitchen ovens and ones made from gun cabinets and even though they all worked there was always some sort of limitation. I've wanted to build a larger one but had never gotten around to it. A company in Bettendorf IA builds ovens and shot me a good price on this one so I went for it. I like it so far.

 

[Pinecone]

Realize that latex gloves are only for use with polar solvents. Like water and alcohol. There can also be serious problems with developing latex allergies.

Nitrile gloves are a better choice for most non-polar solvents (like paint solvents), although for some, the proper glove material is neoprene.

Check the MSDS for proper gloves to use with paint and solvent products.

 

[Gunsmith Dan]

Cerakote specifically states the use of powder free latex gloves because the solvent used in Cerakote will dissolve nitrile, powder free because the powder will cause defects in the coating, in fact nitrile a very bad choice for anything with high amounts of Acetone like brake cleaners. The only time I use Nitrile is when working with oils and greases as Latex a poor choice for some types of oils.

 

[Pinecone]

Hmm, from the C series SDS - http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/C series (Generic).pdf

Hands: Chemical-resistant, impervious gloves complying with an approved standard should be worn at all times. Solvent resistant (neoprene, nitrile or other nonporous) recommended.

H series Part A - http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/H-Series Part A (Generic).pdf

Hands: Chemical-resistant, impervious gloves complying with an approved standard should be worn at all times. Solvent resistant (neoprene, nitrile or other nonporous) recommended.

Latex is pretty much useless for any organic solvent.

Yes, nitrile is not good for acetone, you need butyl for that.