Stock/chassis Design and Recoil

Wiley2019

Private
Minuteman
Nov 15, 2022
71
46
Texas
I’m looking to hear yalls opinions on stock design and its effect on mitigating recoil. Right now I’ve got a 7PRC which I’ll admit I got a little overzealous on cutting weight and now I’m dealing with the consequences of my choices.

Rifle comes out just under 10lbs, with a suppressor and bipod. About 8.5lbs scoped weight without the can and accessories. I’m not scared of recoil but it’s pretty unpleasant to shoot anywhere besides off a bench and sandbags. It’s in a XLR element magnesium chassis, and it’s my first rifle that’s using essentially an AR buffer tube to connect the stock. I love the chassis but I’m wondering if that design is causing the significantly stiffer recoil impulse over my 28nosler pushing way heavier bullets in just over a 9lb package with a more traditional stock design.

I guess my question would be should I just start adding weight where I can to calm it down, or would I be better off going to a standard stock and using this chassis on something that isn’t as spicy? Would a different design geometry calm down the recoil significantly or is weight the only fix here?

I do love this chassis, I’m just not sure I’ve currently got on the best rifle for it to shine.
 
Weight certainly helps... rules of physics and all that fun stuff.

One design feature I like when dealing with recoil is a negative comb. When the rifle recoils and pushes to the rear (your head stays mostly still) and the stock slides away from your face.

Takes the kick in the jaw feeling out of it.
 
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Weight certainly helps... rules of physics and all that fun stuff.

One design feature I like when dealing with recoil is a negative comb. When the rifle recoils and pushes to the rear (your head stays mostly still) and the stock slides away from your face.

Takes the kick in the jaw feeling out of it.
That’s exactly what I’m wondering, I know nothing but weight will make it actually kick less, but it seems like a different stock design could change the way that recoil is felt.
 
... another (less favorable option) is ditch the suppressor for a good brake.

I love my suppressors, but modern brakes can cut more than 60% of the recoil. All that muzzle pressure from the PRC only helps make the brake more effective.
 
Keep it light for hunting, the other 9 months of the year add 4.5lbs with 2 sets of external, internal, butt tube weights. That’s around a 50% increase in mass to take some of the beating.

As to the stock design question, certainly can contribute but post traditional designed usually seem to have the opposite effect you noticed, they are worse for recoil. A batter pad can make a world of difference though and if you have the ultra light butt it’s not a 1” super squish, not sure how a slip on would fit.
Swap them if they are both the same footprint and see if the recoil follows the barreled action or if it stays with the stock.
 
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Keep it light for hunting, the other 9 months of the year add 4.5lbs with 2 sets of external, internal, butt tube weights. That’s around a 50% increase in mass to take some of the beating.

As to the stock design question, certainly can contribute but post traditional designed usually seem to have the opposite effect you noticed, they are worse for recoil. A batter pad can make a world of difference though and if you have the ultra light butt it’s not a 1” super squish, not sure how a slip on would fit.
Swap them if they are both the same footprint and see if the recoil follows the barreled action or if it stays with the stock.
That’s tomorrow’s plan, throw a stock with the same footprint on and see if it makes a difference. Should be an interesting experiment as I believe any stock I have access to will actually be lighter than the chassis by 6-7oz, if the recoil impulse is better that will tell me everything I need to know. Hoping some others on here have first hand experience with a barreled action in both styles so I know if I’m barking up the right tree or not.

And as to my original post “traditional” stock may have not been the right choice of words. I meant the rifle is in an actual stock as opposed to a chassis, I’m speaking of modern designs such as EH1 or AG alpine hunter type stocks, not traditional sporter style stocks.
 
I’ll also add incase someone reads this far, that I do have several different suppressors I could try ranging for very light to not as light, but not really heavy. However I’ve never really played with them back to back on the same rifle to see if they reduce recoil any more or less than the others. Currently this rifles is wearing a Scythe Ti, I also have a Nomad Ti, regular Nomad 30, and Omega 300. I may run through those back to back tomorrow as well to see if felt recoil changes at all. And it’s not like this rifle kicks so bad that I’m afraid of it, I’d just like to take some punch out of it for comfort sake and if at all possible, spotting my own shots.
 
.However I’ve never really played with them back to back on the same rifle to see if they reduce recoil any more or less than the others. Currently this rifles is wearing a Scythe Ti, I also have a Nomad Ti, regular Nomad 30, and Omega 300. I may run through those back to back tomorrow as well to see if felt recoil changes at all.
 
I’ll also add incase someone reads this far, that I do have several different suppressors I could try ranging for very light to not as light, but not really heavy. However I’ve never really played with them back to back on the same rifle to see if they reduce recoil any more or less than the others. Currently this rifles is wearing a Scythe Ti, I also have a Nomad Ti, regular Nomad 30, and Omega 300. I may run through those back to back tomorrow as well to see if felt recoil changes at all. And it’s not like this rifle kicks so bad that I’m afraid of it, I’d just like to take some punch out of it for comfort sake and if at all possible, spotting my own shots.
Add a @RecoilXBrakes to the Scythe Ti. It'll help a bunch.
 
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Xlr also has a funky recoil mitigation thing that goes on the tube no idea how well it works. At worst it's more weight 🤣


Could also build up a negative comb on the cheek rest with tape or something
 
Well I shot again today trying my different suppressors and going to the slightly heavier omega with anchor brake did help some, but it’s now obvious to me that whatever was causing the jarring recoil was some sort of form issue. I couldn’t tell you what it was I was doing wrong, but when I set up today and took my time it was significantly more manageable than before. I wish I knew exactly what I was doing wrong the other day so I could be sure not to do it again, but for now I’ll just try to get my reps in taking my time to do it correctly.

I’m still not super comfortable with the pistol grip vs any of my other stocks, but I can practice until that develops. The omega did help a little so I will be running that going forward since it’s not much more weight.
 
In my experience, stock/chassis design absolutely matters with felt recoil and recoil management.

Pic from the side of the rifle sitting in the chassis?

And if possible... pics from different angles of you behind the rifle??
Don’t have any any of myself behind the rifle, but here’s the rifle itself. Some things have changed since those photos, it has a good 1” recoil pad on it now as well as a thumb rest. But the overal geometry hasn’t changed.
 

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