So, I was putting an EGW base on my 10/22, using my friend's torque wrench set to 20 in/lbs (just like EGW said on the package) and the screws kept turning. I was careful not to cross thread them when getting them started, and tightened them very loosely with a regular allen key before using the torque wrench. It seemed strange that they didn't start to lock the base down, so I took them out and had a closer look. Somehow the screws stripped the threads out of the receiver before even reaching 20 in/lbs (maybe because it's aluminum?!). What do you guys think is the best fix for this? (Other than buy a steel receiver... Which I would like to do, but don't have the money for right now.)
- Thread starter Tanman
- Start date
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
Rethread to the next bigger size.
I seem to Remember somebody selling a tap and drill set.
Rethread to the next bigger size.
I seem to Remember somebody selling a tap and drill set.
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
Drill and tap. Probably best to let a gunsmith with a real machine do it. I don't think you are going to get real square/concentric holes if you do it at home with typical garage tools.
Drill and tap. Probably best to let a gunsmith with a real machine do it. I don't think you are going to get real square/concentric holes if you do it at home with typical garage tools.
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
<span style="font-weight: bold">DO NOT TORQUE TO 20 INCH/lbs.</span> per EGW's package print on a 10/22 aluminum receiver. Believe its a print for all their rails, but based off steel receiver torque values/spec.
Torque from now on to: <span style="font-weight: bold">10-12 INCH/lbs. w/ BLUE LocTite</span> for Aluminum
Here is a quick fix:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153133
Buy the <span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">WEAVER STYLE .146"-48 X 1/2" "OVERSIZE" 6-48 SCR</span>EWS</span> here:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3104/pid=795/sku/1_Dz__Weaver__146__48_Screws
<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">NOT, the "Fillister" Head.</span></span></span>
* The supplied EGW 6-48 Weaver Scope Base Screws only go about half way down into the receiver. So, You should still have half of the threads left.
- Strip the 10/22 from its trigger group, bolt, bolt handle.
- Replace it back in the stock & support it in a cradle or even off the bipod and something to support the rear/sides. If you use a padded vise make sure you dont crush/squeeze the receiver.
* Make a tap from one of the new oversized screws with a radius about 1/3 from tip up and cut two slits on each side with a dremel.
- Use some cutting oil, kroil, somethings better than nothing.
- Make sure you have a nice fitted driver tip to the screw head and tap like anything else.
- The remaining threads will guide you.
- Make sure you CLEAN the exposed Screw/Tap from the inside of the receiver before backing it out.
- Clean out the new threads/holes
- Install Base & TORQUE Base Screws to 10-12 INCH/lbs w/ BLUE LocTite.
___________________________________________________________________
<span style="font-weight: bold">MORE OPTIONS</span>
Drill/Tap receiver to: 8-32
Base: RimFire Technologies
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/10_22_20MOA_Picatinny_Scope_Rail_p/tpsr-020.htm
-or-
Drill/Tap Receiver & Base to: 8-40
<span style="font-style: italic">Link/Credit for info. below goes to:</span>
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270368
Do it right . drill and tap to 8-40. Brownells has everything you need for the job. This was posted someplace in here :
Supplies (Brownell’s):
1. 8-40 Taper Tap (#395-840-001)=$1.82
2. 28gauge wire jobber-length drill bit (#891-128-140)=$2.45
3. *Pack of 8-40x1/4" torx screws (#080-924-484)=$5.22. That’s enough screws for at least 2, maybe receivers.
4. 1/4" drill bit (#891-201-400)=$3.23 (if you already have one that's close to this size you can use it...its for countersinking the screw heads into your base).
Optional:
5. T-handle for taps (I used a pair of vicegrips instead) (#395-311-001)=$3.67
6. 16ga jobber length drill bit for opening the receiver holes to allow the bigger screws to clear (#891-116-177)=$3.21
Process:
1. Remove receiver from stock.
2. Remove barrel and all internals from receiver.
3. (Assuming the base is already on the receiver) remove only the two middle screws, leaving the base attached by just the two end screws.
4. Starting on the base side, use the 28ga bit to drill out the two vacant holes.
5. Tap the two holes all the way through the base and receiver.
6. Insert new screws into the newly tapped holes and tighten to ‘snug’.
7. Remove the other two original screws (leaving the new ones in place).
8. Repeat steps 4 & 5.
9. Remove the base from the receiver.
10. Now you need to open the holes in the base to allow the screws to spin freely. I simply put a screw in the holes (in the base only) and just stripped them out. You can use the 16ga bit if you’d prefer. Result is the same.
11. Replace base onto receiver with all 4 screws to make sure everything fits.
12. **With the ¼” bit and some trial and error, countersink the holes in the base so that the screw heads don’t stick up too far, and so that the screw ends just barely protrude down into the receiver (too far and they’ll bind on the bolt, not far enough and they won’t hold anything).
13. Remove everything again and thoroughly clean the receiver inside and out. Reassemble. Apply your favorite lube. Shoot.
Now you can actually tighten the base to the receiver with little worry of stripping. Ruger should have used 8-40 screws to begin with!
*This is for the standard Weaver T-09 base. If you have a Power Custom, or some other brand of base, your screw length (and corresponding Brownell’s number) may differ.
**A standard drill bit will not exactly match the angle on the Weaver screws, but its close enough considering that your using a steel screw to mate 2 aluminum pieces. If you can find a bit that exactly matches the angle, go for it.
Also, the ¼” is just an approximate size, the one I used was actually 15/64” because that’s what I happened to have on hand.
<span style="font-weight: bold">DO NOT TORQUE TO 20 INCH/lbs.</span> per EGW's package print on a 10/22 aluminum receiver. Believe its a print for all their rails, but based off steel receiver torque values/spec.
Torque from now on to: <span style="font-weight: bold">10-12 INCH/lbs. w/ BLUE LocTite</span> for Aluminum
Here is a quick fix:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153133
Buy the <span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">WEAVER STYLE .146"-48 X 1/2" "OVERSIZE" 6-48 SCR</span>EWS</span> here:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3104/pid=795/sku/1_Dz__Weaver__146__48_Screws
<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">NOT, the "Fillister" Head.</span></span></span>
* The supplied EGW 6-48 Weaver Scope Base Screws only go about half way down into the receiver. So, You should still have half of the threads left.
- Strip the 10/22 from its trigger group, bolt, bolt handle.
- Replace it back in the stock & support it in a cradle or even off the bipod and something to support the rear/sides. If you use a padded vise make sure you dont crush/squeeze the receiver.
* Make a tap from one of the new oversized screws with a radius about 1/3 from tip up and cut two slits on each side with a dremel.
- Use some cutting oil, kroil, somethings better than nothing.
- Make sure you have a nice fitted driver tip to the screw head and tap like anything else.
- The remaining threads will guide you.
- Make sure you CLEAN the exposed Screw/Tap from the inside of the receiver before backing it out.
- Clean out the new threads/holes
- Install Base & TORQUE Base Screws to 10-12 INCH/lbs w/ BLUE LocTite.
___________________________________________________________________
<span style="font-weight: bold">MORE OPTIONS</span>
Drill/Tap receiver to: 8-32
Base: RimFire Technologies
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/10_22_20MOA_Picatinny_Scope_Rail_p/tpsr-020.htm
-or-
Drill/Tap Receiver & Base to: 8-40
<span style="font-style: italic">Link/Credit for info. below goes to:</span>
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270368
Do it right . drill and tap to 8-40. Brownells has everything you need for the job. This was posted someplace in here :
Supplies (Brownell’s):
1. 8-40 Taper Tap (#395-840-001)=$1.82
2. 28gauge wire jobber-length drill bit (#891-128-140)=$2.45
3. *Pack of 8-40x1/4" torx screws (#080-924-484)=$5.22. That’s enough screws for at least 2, maybe receivers.
4. 1/4" drill bit (#891-201-400)=$3.23 (if you already have one that's close to this size you can use it...its for countersinking the screw heads into your base).
Optional:
5. T-handle for taps (I used a pair of vicegrips instead) (#395-311-001)=$3.67
6. 16ga jobber length drill bit for opening the receiver holes to allow the bigger screws to clear (#891-116-177)=$3.21
Process:
1. Remove receiver from stock.
2. Remove barrel and all internals from receiver.
3. (Assuming the base is already on the receiver) remove only the two middle screws, leaving the base attached by just the two end screws.
4. Starting on the base side, use the 28ga bit to drill out the two vacant holes.
5. Tap the two holes all the way through the base and receiver.
6. Insert new screws into the newly tapped holes and tighten to ‘snug’.
7. Remove the other two original screws (leaving the new ones in place).
8. Repeat steps 4 & 5.
9. Remove the base from the receiver.
10. Now you need to open the holes in the base to allow the screws to spin freely. I simply put a screw in the holes (in the base only) and just stripped them out. You can use the 16ga bit if you’d prefer. Result is the same.
11. Replace base onto receiver with all 4 screws to make sure everything fits.
12. **With the ¼” bit and some trial and error, countersink the holes in the base so that the screw heads don’t stick up too far, and so that the screw ends just barely protrude down into the receiver (too far and they’ll bind on the bolt, not far enough and they won’t hold anything).
13. Remove everything again and thoroughly clean the receiver inside and out. Reassemble. Apply your favorite lube. Shoot.
Now you can actually tighten the base to the receiver with little worry of stripping. Ruger should have used 8-40 screws to begin with!
*This is for the standard Weaver T-09 base. If you have a Power Custom, or some other brand of base, your screw length (and corresponding Brownell’s number) may differ.
**A standard drill bit will not exactly match the angle on the Weaver screws, but its close enough considering that your using a steel screw to mate 2 aluminum pieces. If you can find a bit that exactly matches the angle, go for it.
Also, the ¼” is just an approximate size, the one I used was actually 15/64” because that’s what I happened to have on hand.
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
Wow, who woulda thought they wouldn't even put the correct torque value on the package!?
Thanks a bunch fellas, I think I'll try my hand at drilling and tapping. The weaver style screws doesn't mean they are for weaver bases, does it? Mine is the 20 MOA Picatinny.
Wow, who woulda thought they wouldn't even put the correct torque value on the package!?
Thanks a bunch fellas, I think I'll try my hand at drilling and tapping. The weaver style screws doesn't mean they are for weaver bases, does it? Mine is the 20 MOA Picatinny.
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tan Man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks a bunch fellas, I think I'll try my hand at drilling and tapping. The weaver style screws doesn't mean they are for weaver bases, does it? Mine is the 20 MOA Picatinny. </div></div>
Weaver Head Screw profile. I have the same EGW 20MOA Base.
Have a great one
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tan Man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks a bunch fellas, I think I'll try my hand at drilling and tapping. The weaver style screws doesn't mean they are for weaver bases, does it? Mine is the 20 MOA Picatinny. </div></div>
Weaver Head Screw profile. I have the same EGW 20MOA Base.
Have a great one
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/Action_Takedown_Tool_Kit_p/attk-001.htm
The R/T tap kit $17.95
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/Action_Takedown_Tool_Kit_p/attk-001.htm
The R/T tap kit $17.95
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
yeah they should change that listing for customers sake. i think most people know that 20 ft lbs is a value for steel on steel and that seems high, i would have thought 15 ft lbs would be the value. but yeah, EGW posts here. they may want to put a sticker on that package to cover the 20 ft lbs they reccommend.
also, did you strip all 4 holes?
yeah they should change that listing for customers sake. i think most people know that 20 ft lbs is a value for steel on steel and that seems high, i would have thought 15 ft lbs would be the value. but yeah, EGW posts here. they may want to put a sticker on that package to cover the 20 ft lbs they reccommend.
also, did you strip all 4 holes?
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
I stripped two of the four.
EGW just sent me a response to my email about this saying they have never heard of anyone having a problem torquing to 20 inch (not foot) pounds like it says on the package. If I need the oversize screws, they will send them to me.
Might take them up on that.
I stripped two of the four.
EGW just sent me a response to my email about this saying they have never heard of anyone having a problem torquing to 20 inch (not foot) pounds like it says on the package. If I need the oversize screws, they will send them to me.
Might take them up on that.
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SPDGG</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">DO NOT TORQUE TO 20 INCH/lbs</span> per EGW's package print on a 10/22 aluminum receiver. Believe it's a print for all their rails, but based off steel receiver torque values/spec.
Torque from now on to: <span style="font-weight: bold">10-12 INCH/lbs. w/ BLUE LocTite</span> for Aluminum
Here is a quick fix:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153133
Buy the <span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">WEAVER STYLE .146"-48 X 1/2" "OVERSIZE" 6-48 SCR</span>EWS</span> here:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3104/pid=795/sku/1_Dz__Weaver__146__48_Screws
<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">NOT, the "Fillister" Head.</span></span></span>
* The supplied EGW 6-48 Weaver Scope Base Screws only go about half way down into the receiver. So, You should still have half of the threads left.
- Strip the 10/22 from its trigger group, bolt, bolt handle.
- Replace it back in the stock & support it in a cradle or even off the bipod and something to support the rear/sides. If you use a padded vise make sure you dont crush/squeeze the receiver.
* Make a tap from one of the new oversized screws with a radius about 1/3 from tip up and cut two slits on each side with a dremel.
- Use some cutting oil, kroil, somethings better than nothing.
- Make sure you have a nice fitted driver tip to the screw head and tap like anything else.
- The remaining threads will guide you.
- Make sure you CLEAN the exposed Screw/Tap from the inside of the receiver before backing it out.
- Clean out the new threads/holes
- Install Base & TORQUE Base Screws to 10-12 INCH/lbs w/ BLUE LocTite.
___________________________________________________________________
<span style="font-weight: bold">MORE OPTIONS</span>
Drill/Tap receiver to: 8-32
Base: RimFire Technologies
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/10_22_20MOA_Picatinny_Scope_Rail_p/tpsr-020.htm
-or-
Drill/Tap Receiver & Base to: 8-40
<span style="font-style: italic">Link/Credit for info. below goes to:</span>
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270368
Do it right . drill and tap to 8-40. Brownells has everything you need for the job. This was posted someplace in here :
Supplies (Brownell’s):
1. 8-40 Taper Tap (#395-840-001)=$1.82
2. 28gauge wire jobber-length drill bit (#891-128-140)=$2.45
3. *Pack of 8-40x1/4" torx screws (#080-924-484)=$5.22. That’s enough screws for at least 2, maybe receivers.
4. 1/4" drill bit (#891-201-400)=$3.23 (if you already have one that's close to this size you can use it...its for countersinking the screw heads into your base).
Optional:
5. T-handle for taps (I used a pair of vicegrips instead) (#395-311-001)=$3.67
6. 16ga jobber length drill bit for opening the receiver holes to allow the bigger screws to clear (#891-116-177)=$3.21
Process:
1. Remove receiver from stock.
2. Remove barrel and all internals from receiver.
3. (Assuming the base is already on the receiver) remove only the two middle screws, leaving the base attached by just the two end screws.
4. Starting on the base side, use the 28ga bit to drill out the two vacant holes.
5. Tap the two holes all the way through the base and receiver.
6. Insert new screws into the newly tapped holes and tighten to ‘snug’.
7. Remove the other two original screws (leaving the new ones in place).
8. Repeat steps 4 & 5.
9. Remove the base from the receiver.
10. Now you need to open the holes in the base to allow the screws to spin freely. I simply put a screw in the holes (in the base only) and just stripped them out. You can use the 16ga bit if you’d prefer. Result is the same.
11. Replace base onto receiver with all 4 screws to make sure everything fits.
12. **With the ¼” bit and some trial and error, countersink the holes in the base so that the screw heads don’t stick up too far, and so that the screw ends just barely protrude down into the receiver (too far and they’ll bind on the bolt, not far enough and they won’t hold anything).
13. Remove everything again and thoroughly clean the receiver inside and out. Reassemble. Apply your favorite lube. Shoot.
Now you can actually tighten the base to the receiver with little worry of stripping. Ruger should have used 8-40 screws to begin with!
*This is for the standard Weaver T-09 base. If you have a Power Custom, or some other brand of base, your screw length (and corresponding Brownell’s number) may differ.
**A standard drill bit will not exactly match the angle on the Weaver screws, but its close enough considering that your using a steel screw to mate 2 aluminum pieces. If you can find a bit that exactly matches the angle, go for it.
Also, the ¼” is just an approximate size, the one I used was actually 15/64” because that’s what I happened to have on hand.</div></div>
Thanks for the good info!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SPDGG</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">DO NOT TORQUE TO 20 INCH/lbs</span> per EGW's package print on a 10/22 aluminum receiver. Believe it's a print for all their rails, but based off steel receiver torque values/spec.
Torque from now on to: <span style="font-weight: bold">10-12 INCH/lbs. w/ BLUE LocTite</span> for Aluminum
Here is a quick fix:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153133
Buy the <span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">WEAVER STYLE .146"-48 X 1/2" "OVERSIZE" 6-48 SCR</span>EWS</span> here:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3104/pid=795/sku/1_Dz__Weaver__146__48_Screws
<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">NOT, the "Fillister" Head.</span></span></span>
* The supplied EGW 6-48 Weaver Scope Base Screws only go about half way down into the receiver. So, You should still have half of the threads left.
- Strip the 10/22 from its trigger group, bolt, bolt handle.
- Replace it back in the stock & support it in a cradle or even off the bipod and something to support the rear/sides. If you use a padded vise make sure you dont crush/squeeze the receiver.
* Make a tap from one of the new oversized screws with a radius about 1/3 from tip up and cut two slits on each side with a dremel.
- Use some cutting oil, kroil, somethings better than nothing.
- Make sure you have a nice fitted driver tip to the screw head and tap like anything else.
- The remaining threads will guide you.
- Make sure you CLEAN the exposed Screw/Tap from the inside of the receiver before backing it out.
- Clean out the new threads/holes
- Install Base & TORQUE Base Screws to 10-12 INCH/lbs w/ BLUE LocTite.
___________________________________________________________________
<span style="font-weight: bold">MORE OPTIONS</span>
Drill/Tap receiver to: 8-32
Base: RimFire Technologies
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/10_22_20MOA_Picatinny_Scope_Rail_p/tpsr-020.htm
-or-
Drill/Tap Receiver & Base to: 8-40
<span style="font-style: italic">Link/Credit for info. below goes to:</span>
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270368
Do it right . drill and tap to 8-40. Brownells has everything you need for the job. This was posted someplace in here :
Supplies (Brownell’s):
1. 8-40 Taper Tap (#395-840-001)=$1.82
2. 28gauge wire jobber-length drill bit (#891-128-140)=$2.45
3. *Pack of 8-40x1/4" torx screws (#080-924-484)=$5.22. That’s enough screws for at least 2, maybe receivers.
4. 1/4" drill bit (#891-201-400)=$3.23 (if you already have one that's close to this size you can use it...its for countersinking the screw heads into your base).
Optional:
5. T-handle for taps (I used a pair of vicegrips instead) (#395-311-001)=$3.67
6. 16ga jobber length drill bit for opening the receiver holes to allow the bigger screws to clear (#891-116-177)=$3.21
Process:
1. Remove receiver from stock.
2. Remove barrel and all internals from receiver.
3. (Assuming the base is already on the receiver) remove only the two middle screws, leaving the base attached by just the two end screws.
4. Starting on the base side, use the 28ga bit to drill out the two vacant holes.
5. Tap the two holes all the way through the base and receiver.
6. Insert new screws into the newly tapped holes and tighten to ‘snug’.
7. Remove the other two original screws (leaving the new ones in place).
8. Repeat steps 4 & 5.
9. Remove the base from the receiver.
10. Now you need to open the holes in the base to allow the screws to spin freely. I simply put a screw in the holes (in the base only) and just stripped them out. You can use the 16ga bit if you’d prefer. Result is the same.
11. Replace base onto receiver with all 4 screws to make sure everything fits.
12. **With the ¼” bit and some trial and error, countersink the holes in the base so that the screw heads don’t stick up too far, and so that the screw ends just barely protrude down into the receiver (too far and they’ll bind on the bolt, not far enough and they won’t hold anything).
13. Remove everything again and thoroughly clean the receiver inside and out. Reassemble. Apply your favorite lube. Shoot.
Now you can actually tighten the base to the receiver with little worry of stripping. Ruger should have used 8-40 screws to begin with!
*This is for the standard Weaver T-09 base. If you have a Power Custom, or some other brand of base, your screw length (and corresponding Brownell’s number) may differ.
**A standard drill bit will not exactly match the angle on the Weaver screws, but its close enough considering that your using a steel screw to mate 2 aluminum pieces. If you can find a bit that exactly matches the angle, go for it.
Also, the ¼” is just an approximate size, the one I used was actually 15/64” because that’s what I happened to have on hand.</div></div>
Thanks for the good info!
Re: Stripped threads on 10/22 receiver
I got nervous about messing up worse than I already did, and took it to the gunsmith.
$80 mistake. Ooops..
I got nervous about messing up worse than I already did, and took it to the gunsmith.
$80 mistake. Ooops..
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