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Suppressors suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

wildbill9ball

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 3, 2010
147
0
56
Avondale ,AZ
So I have an AAC SPR/M4 and a AAC 7.62SD . I put the spr on a rock river m4 and the other on a AR10T . The rock is not to bad you can shoot about 200rds and then you have to clean it. But the AR10 is good for about 70rds and that's it.

thinking about going to a piston system or JP adjustable gas block any advice would appreciated
Picture071.jpg
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

I'm considering the Noveske Switchblock. Or maybe the AA piston conversion. I think the piston systems are the real answer to the problem.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

An adjustable gas block will help you out. I have over 500 rounds on my 10.5" AR it wears a KAC NT4 can and it still runs great. A little oil and it keeps on ticking. I will clean it in another 200 or so rounds.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

nothing beats a piston system suppressed for cleaning, period.
I have a 2 Noveske switchblocks and they're still dirty mofo's to clean, my LWRC M-6A3 is my go-to gun when I want to run a lot of rounds suppressed IMHO
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

Piston guns are going to be louder then DI.
Its a gun, you have to clean them.... when suppressed you just need a little more elbow grease.


You will be ok
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">An adjustable gas block will help you out. I have over 500 rounds on my 10.5" AR it wears a KAC NT4 can and it still runs great. A little oil and it keeps on ticking. I will clean it in another 200 or so rounds. </div></div> wow I have to clean mine every time I shoot them I guess Im a little anal I will add a adj gas block
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

I too am considering going to piston on my Grendel. I should have my AAC M4-2000 at some point, and have a quesetion about a piston conversion. My AR has a mid length quad rail installed and am worried about it not being compatible with the piston system. Any advice out there? I do not want to use the standard guardrails that come with the kits. Currently, amd considering the Osprey kit... Thanks.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

Wow!!! I'm at over 1000 round suppressed on my Noveske 10.5" with aac m4-2000 & I still haven't cleaned it. I've shot 1k in a weekend before suppressed & still no issues.

Are you actually having failures or just don't like how dirty it gets?
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KaneK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow!!! I'm at over 1000 round suppressed on my Noveske 10.5" with aac m4-2000 & I still haven't cleaned it. I've shot 1k in a weekend before suppressed & still no issues.

Are you actually having failures or just don't like how dirty it gets?</div></div> I have had rounds stuck in the chamber and failure to feed on the AR10 . The ar15 still runs but has black cake everywhere
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

My guns get cleaned every time I take them shooting 1rd or 200rds that is just the way I was raised and x-military
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

I have gone well over 1k also without cleaning.

Going with a piston setup isn't going to make it run any cleaner. Most of the blow back is going to come through the chamber, not the gas system.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bacarrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have gone well over 1k also without cleaning.

Going with a piston setup isn't going to make it run any cleaner. Most of the blow back is going to come through the chamber, not the gas system. </div></div>

+1000

Piston guns run a lot cleaner than DI when unsuppressed. When you put a suppressor on a gun I can tell no difference between a DI and piston system. Dont buy the hype.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m1garand30064</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bacarrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have gone well over 1k also without cleaning.

Going with a piston setup isn't going to make it run any cleaner. Most of the blow back is going to come through the chamber, not the gas system. </div></div>

+1000

Piston guns run a lot cleaner than DI when unsuppressed. When you put a suppressor on a gun I can tell no difference between a DI and piston system. Don'T buy the hype. </div></div> gun runs great with out suppressor so I ordered a adj gas block and i will adj down until it just works with out the suppressor then we will see how it runs with
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

I have run a lot more than 1k through my 16" with an spr/m4 without cleaning it.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wildbill9ball</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m1garand30064</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bacarrat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have gone well over 1k also without cleaning.

Going with a piston setup isn't going to make it run any cleaner. Most of the blow back is going to come through the chamber, not the gas system. </div></div>

+1000

Piston guns run a lot cleaner than DI when unsuppressed. When you put a suppressor on a gun I can tell no difference between a DI and piston system. Don'T buy the hype. </div></div> gun runs great with out suppressor so I ordered a adj gas block and i will adj down until it just works with out the suppressor then we will see how it runs with </div></div>

You could have got a Slash buffer, Tubb CWS, Tubb Buffer Spring. Running suppressed is dirty regardless. Your failures are probably related to overpressure. Your over pressure could have been solved with just a heavier buffer.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wildbill9ball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My guns get cleaned every time I take them shooting 1rd or 200rds that is just the way I was raised and x-military </div></div>

You are wasting your time and money with this mindset. Run a bore snake down the barrel and wipe it down with an oily rag. You dont need to detail clean them after each outing. More barrels have been tossed due to excessive cleaning then being shot out.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Apollo11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keep in mind that a piston does nothing for the gases coming back through the chamber. This accounts for a lot of carbon build up. </div></div>

Really?

Because most pistons dump their gas out of the front of the piston assembly which would be closest to the gas block....
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

some piston guns are louder as mentioned, but overall the piston guns with the adjustable gas system are the ticket, all of my AR's have NP-3 coating applied to the BCG's for easy cleaning and self-lube or at least hard chrome /OBR and my MWS
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

when iam done cleaning you could take a white glove to my guns but i don't use chemicals except for 3 patches of hoppes solvent followed by 3 clean patches for each one i don`t think that wiping the gun off with q tips and paper towels will wear it out<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wildbill9ball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My guns get cleaned every time I take them shooting 1rd or 200rds that is just the way I was raised and x-military </div></div>

You are wasting your time and money with this mindset. Run a bore snake down the barrel and wipe it down with an oily rag. You dont need to detail clean them after each outing. More barrels have been tossed due to excessive cleaning then being shot out. </div></div>
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Apollo11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keep in mind that a piston does nothing for the gases coming back through the chamber. This accounts for a lot of carbon build up. </div></div>

Really?

Because most pistons dump their gas out of the front of the piston assembly which would be closest to the gas block.... </div></div>

I think so.

Was listening to Noveske talk about this on "gun talk" and had a conversation about this with them. The two piston guns I have seen run supressed had a lot of fouling on the rounds in the mags and the spend casings. There is still gas being forced back that the piston gas block is not going to relieve, this gas is hot and dirty.

Obviously there is much more fouling in a DI gun, but the piston IMHO is not the end all solution. As you stated lube goes a long way in keeping things happy.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Apollo11</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Apollo11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keep in mind that a piston does nothing for the gases coming back through the chamber. This accounts for a lot of carbon build up. </div></div>

Really?

Because most pistons dump their gas out of the front of the piston assembly which would be closest to the gas block.... </div></div>

I think so.

Was listening to Noveske talk about this on "gun talk" and had a conversation about this with them. The two piston guns I have seen run supressed had a lot of fouling on the rounds in the mags and the spend casings. There is still gas being forced back that the piston gas block is not going to relieve, this gas is hot and dirty.

Obviously there is much more fouling in a DI gun, but the piston IMHO is not the end all solution. As you stated lube goes a long way in keeping things happy. </div></div>


I said most, not all. They do foul the chamber but most gas is thrown out from under the rails. Check your rails or rail covers, look at how black they are. I have put a LWRC 10.5" up against my Noveske 10.5" and after 1000 rounds over a weeks time, they still took a lot of time to clean.

Go DI if you want to run suppressed and keep quiet, run a switchblock.
Go piston if you really hate cleaning and are not worried about a little more noise.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Apollo11</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Apollo11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keep in mind that a piston does nothing for the gases coming back through the chamber. This accounts for a lot of carbon build up. </div></div>

Really?

Because most pistons dump their gas out of the front of the piston assembly which would be closest to the gas block.... </div></div>

I think so.

Was listening to Noveske talk about this on "gun talk" and had a conversation about this with them. The two piston guns I have seen run supressed had a lot of fouling on the rounds in the mags and the spend casings. There is still gas being forced back that the piston gas block is not going to relieve, this gas is hot and dirty.

Obviously there is much more fouling in a DI gun, but the piston IMHO is not the end all solution. As you stated lube goes a long way in keeping things happy. </div></div>


I said most, not all. They do foul the chamber but most gas is thrown out from under the rails. Check your rails or rail covers, look at how black they are. I have put a LWRC 10.5" up against my Noveske 10.5" and after 1000 rounds over a weeks time, they still took a lot of time to clean.

Go DI if you want to run suppressed and keep quiet, run a switchblock.
Go piston if you really hate cleaning and are not worried about a little more noise. </div></div>

I agree.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

Step One: Do your own research and come to your own conclusions.

Pretty much everyone has the same reaction as you the first time that they shoot an AR pattern rifle suppressed.
The reality is that the majority of the fouling that is creating issues while shooting suppressed is coming from the bore, not the gas tube.
All the GP system will do is keep the BCG a bit cleaner and degrade accuracy.

GP vs. DI argument is pretty old, but the consensus agrees on at least these points:
- GP overall is a cleaner running platform.
- GP increases reliability if you don't take into account setting up a DI for high reliability.
- GP does not have near the parts availability or standardization of DI.
- GP is inherently less accurate due to the additional reciprocating mass in a separate plane than the barrel and additional pressures exerted on the barrel assembly.
(The accuracy claim is old and if you have any doubt, ask George Gardner of GA Precision or Jered Joplin on American Precision Arms.)
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2307383
*BOTTOM LINE*
Gas Piston is perfect for people that like to have a clean gun but don't like spending two hours to get there.
All bets are off though when you add a suppressor.

The two solutions that I have seen work the best is a "Switch Block" type setup and / or appropriate rifle setup.
What is appropriate rifle setup?
I would consider appropriate rifle setup as keeping the BCG and locking lugs well lubricated in a quality product like Mobil-1 or SLIP 2000 EWL.
It is also appropriate to use a heavy buffer and spring to slow down the action.
(This allows more dwell time for gas to escape the bore / chamber.)

Start with the cheap solutions and work your way up:
- Oil is cheap, use it...
- Buffers are not too expensive and they are easily swapped in seconds.
- A Noveske Switch Block or other comparable products are pricey, but they are purpose built for what you are trying to do.

Remember "Step One" though...
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dr. Phil</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Step One: Do your own research and come to your own conclusions.

Pretty much everyone has the same reaction as you the first time that they shoot an AR pattern rifle suppressed.
The reality is that the majority of the fouling that is creating issues while shooting suppressed is coming from the bore, not the gas tube.
All the GP system will do is keep the BCG a bit cleaner and degrade accuracy.

GP vs. DI argument is pretty old, but the consensus agrees on at least these points:
- GP overall is a cleaner running platform.
- GP increases reliability if you don't take into account setting up a DI for high reliability.
- GP does not have near the parts availability or standardization of DI.
- GP is inherently less accurate due to the additional reciprocating mass in a separate plane than the barrel and additional pressures exerted on the barrel assembly.
(The accuracy claim is old and if you have any doubt, ask George Gardner of GA Precision or Jered Joplin on American Precision Arms.)
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2307383
*BOTTOM LINE*
Gas Piston is perfect for people that like to have a clean gun but don't like spending two hours to get there.
All bets are off though when you add a suppressor.

The two solutions that I have seen work the best is a "Switch Block" type setup and / or appropriate rifle setup.
What is appropriate rifle setup?
I would consider appropriate rifle setup as keeping the BCG and locking lugs well lubricated in a quality product like Mobil-1 or SLIP 2000 EWL.
It is also appropriate to use a heavy buffer and spring to slow down the action.
(This allows more dwell time for gas to escape the bore / chamber.)

Start with the cheap solutions and work your way up:
- Oil is cheap, use it...
- Buffers are not too expensive and they are easily swapped in seconds.
- A Noveske Switch Block or other comparable products are pricey, but they are purpose built for what you are trying to do.

Remember "Step One" though...
</div></div>

And there will be a pop quiz at the end of this lecture. As usual Phil took me to school. Thanks Phil, you answered several questions I've had for some time.
smile.gif
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

JUst get a jp or pri gas block and it will help keep gas out of your face. Less gas less cleaning
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dr. Phil</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Step One: Do your own research and come to your own conclusions.

Pretty much everyone has the same reaction as you the first time that they shoot an AR pattern rifle suppressed.
The reality is that the majority of the fouling that is creating issues while shooting suppressed is coming from the bore, not the gas tube.
All the GP system will do is keep the BCG a bit cleaner and degrade accuracy.

GP vs. DI argument is pretty old, but the consensus agrees on at least these points:
- GP overall is a cleaner running platform.
- GP increases reliability if you don't take into account setting up a DI for high reliability.
- GP does not have near the parts availability or standardization of DI.
- GP is inherently less accurate due to the additional reciprocating mass in a separate plane than the barrel and additional pressures exerted on the barrel assembly.
(The accuracy claim is old and if you have any doubt, ask George Gardner of GA Precision or Jered Joplin on American Precision Arms.)
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2307383
*BOTTOM LINE*
Gas Piston is perfect for people that like to have a clean gun but don't like spending two hours to get there.
All bets are off though when you add a suppressor.

The two solutions that I have seen work the best is a "Switch Block" type setup and / or appropriate rifle setup.
What is appropriate rifle setup?
I would consider appropriate rifle setup as keeping the BCG and locking lugs well lubricated in a quality product like Mobil-1 or SLIP 2000 EWL.
It is also appropriate to use a heavy buffer and spring to slow down the action.
(This allows more dwell time for gas to escape the bore / chamber.)

Start with the cheap solutions and work your way up:
- Oil is cheap, use it...
- Buffers are not too expensive and they are easily swapped in seconds.
- A Noveske Switch Block or other comparable products are pricey, but they are purpose built for what you are trying to do.

Remember "Step One" though...
</div></div> should have said the rock m4 has a h2 buffer I have a jp adj. gas block coming we will see how adj gas flow will help
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wildbill9ball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">should have said the rock m4 has a h2 buffer I have a jp adj. gas block coming we will see how adj gas flow will help </div></div>
There are even heavier buffers to try beyond the H2.
There are H3 Buffers, The Spike's tactical buffer, and then finally Slash's buffers.
CAR10%20SS%20Buffer%20Web.JPG

http://www.heavybuffers.com/

This chart may help:
Buffer%20Table.jpg


Just food for thought.
FWIW, this post is not an endorsement of Slash's products.
It is just to provide you more options in your quest for suppressed AR perfection.
wink.gif

+ PRI Gas Buster CH is a no brainer

Edited to add:
Normally I don't post what I run because everyone always tends to endorse their setup as the best.
In this case, my setup may help you determine what is best for you by providing more data.

For 5.56 NATO
H2 Buffer
Standard CS Action Spring
PRI Gas Buster CH
Full Auto LMT Enhanced BCG (GEN II)
14.5" Bushmaster Heavy Barrel
SRT Universal Typhoon Sound Moderator

For 300 BLK:
H2 Buffer
Standard CS Action Spring
PRI Gas Buster CH
Semi Auto LMT Enhanced BCG (GEN I)
10" Noveske Barrel
TBAC 30P-1 Sound Moderator

Both setups are very reliable and have minimal "Gas Face".
The 5.56 setup had a lot more gas prior to switching to the GEN II LMT Enhanced FA BCG.
Gen II version has an extra vent port to slow down bolt velocity even more and being the Full Auto version there is even more mass in the BCG.
There is a measurable difference in 5.56 when transitioning between the two BCGs.
As far as the Noveske 10" 300 BLK barrel goes, the ammount of gas used is tuned to perfection.
(I couldn't have tuned it better if I was using an adjustable gas block.)
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

I run a JP adjustable gas block on my JP CTR-02 for prairie dog shooting out west. I've gone over 600 rounds with minimal maintenance. The only amount being liberal drops of Butch's Oil into the LMOS ports every 100, or so, rounds in order to keep the action well oiled. Per John Paul's recommendation for peak performance, and accuracy, from the gas block, the JP gas block should be adjusted as follows:

1. Tighten the screw adjustment down on the gas block.
2. Remove the magazine and single load a loaded round.
3. Fire the round and observe the short stroke.
4. In 1/4 turn increments, turn out the screw and single fire a round until you observe a full lock back.
5. For reliability's sake, give another 1/4 turn beyond the last lock back.

Work's like a charm.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wildbill9ball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My guns get cleaned every time I take them shooting 1rd or 200rds that is just the way I was raised and x-military </div></div>

You are wasting your time and money with this mindset. Run a bore snake down the barrel and wipe it down with an oily rag. You dont need to detail clean them after each outing. More barrels have been tossed due to excessive cleaning then being shot out. </div></div>


Use caution when you run bore snakes through your bore as they tend to shed their brass bristles in your bore when they get some mileage on them........
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Use caution when you run bore snakes through your bore as they tend to shed their brass bristles in your bore when they get some mileage on them........</div></div>

I fail to see how the 16+" of floss after the bristle section on a bore snake would fail to pick up any lost bristles?

To the op: I run a Noveske w/switchblock pretty wet and have yet to have any issues. Yes its dirty when suppressed but the vast majority of the fouling is coming through the bore as stated previously. Nothing can be done about that. Even delayed-blowback systems such as H&K are still dirty when suppressed, its a fact of life for a semi no matter the system.

One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is hand-loading your ammo. Not sure if it is an option for you, but i have found that some powders are better choices than others in suppressed format. Tac is my favorite, some others such as AA2520 make my eyes water, Benchmark leaves some seriously nasty grey-green coating on everything, even 5 rounds deep in the mag.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wildbill9ball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My guns get cleaned every time I take them shooting 1rd or 200rds that is just the way I was raised and x-military </div></div>

You are wasting your time and money with this mindset. Run a bore snake down the barrel and wipe it down with an oily rag. You dont need to detail clean them after each outing. More barrels have been tossed due to excessive cleaning then being shot out. </div></div>


Use caution when you run bore snakes through your bore as they tend to shed their brass bristles in your bore when they get some mileage on them........ </div></div>

Your talking about a battle style rifle, not an accuracy rig. I will go with what the pro's often use for a quick clean and I always follow with a patch. Never seen a bristle left in the bore yet.
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

Just to add my own personal experiences...

I very much agree that gas pistons are not the be all, end all answer for running a cleaner suppressed AR (or similar) rifle. I've run piston systems including the Adams Arms conversion, the LWRC factory guns, HKs, SCARs, POF and a few others. When running these suppressed they all do still get dirty in the chamber for the reason already mentioned here - blow back is coming through the chamber.

As far as accuracy between DI and piston goes, I have limited personal experience here. What I have done is shot several DI AR-15s prior to and then immediately after installing a gas piston conversion kit. What I found was the same host weapon was always more accurate in the DI configuration. The difference on some hosts was minimal (but measurable) and others what I'd call pretty bad (I'll quantify that as groups opening up more than an MOA at 100-yards). The sample group with which I've had this first-hand experience is small at just over ten units (like maybe a dozen) but enough to prove in my mind that a DI host will be inherently more accurate than a comparable DI host. Without running the exact same host in both DI and piston configurations we can't really compare apples to apples.

I don't dislike piston ARs. I've yet to purchase one for my own collection because I don't like the lack of standardization of parts that I have with my DI rifles. It is just a psychological issue with me. I'm not sure why I feel that way about ARs but I do. I guess it is just after having owned so many DI rifles for so long that I have a hard time committing to a specific brand of piston. Parts availability in the future has always been a concern to me. Again, maybe this is just me being reluctant for goofy reasons. LOL.

I also have yet to adopt any of the adjustable gas block systems. I have lots of personal experience with various systems but still just don't like the idea of having to ensure something is set correctly on the rifle depending on whether I am running a suppressor. I don't like the chance of the rifle being in the "wrong" setting when I pick it up. Again, maybe this is just my goofy way of thinking. Instead I have chosen to setup my ARs in configurations to run 100% reliable in both suppressed and unsuppressed configuration. As others have done I've played with different combinations of buffers and springs to find that happy medium. This has been successful for me to this point so I see no reason for me to change.

There have been a lot of good comments made in this thread so far. I enjoy learning from other people's experiences so thanks to all for sharing your thoughts. Good stuff!
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Code</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Use caution when you run bore snakes through your bore as they tend to shed their brass bristles in your bore when they get some mileage on them........</div></div>

I fail to see how the 16+" of floss after the bristle section on a bore snake would fail to pick up any lost bristles? </div></div>

If I'm not mistaken, we are discussing firearms that all have a hole in the bore to allow them to operate - it might just me a good spot for those sneaky little bristles to hide and just peek into the path of the next bullet down the bore. I've seen it happen more than once. Just saying................
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C MAC</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Code</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Use caution when you run bore snakes through your bore as they tend to shed their brass bristles in your bore when they get some mileage on them........</div></div>

I fail to see how the 16+" of floss after the bristle section on a bore snake would fail to pick up any lost bristles? </div></div>

If I'm not mistaken, we are discussing firearms that all have a hole in the bore to allow them to operate - it might just me a good spot for those sneaky little bristles to hide and just peek into the path of the next bullet down the bore. I've seen it happen more than once. Just saying................ </div></div>

So you take it upon yourself to break down the rifle all the way to a bare barrel and inspect the gas ports?

So all of us using bore snakes and brass brush cleaning rods are all screwed? How do YOU clean out the barrel then?
 
Re: suppressing AR`S and cleaning them

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C MAC</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Code</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Use caution when you run bore snakes through your bore as they tend to shed their brass bristles in your bore when they get some mileage on them........</div></div>

I fail to see how the 16+" of floss after the bristle section on a bore snake would fail to pick up any lost bristles? </div></div>

If I'm not mistaken, we are discussing firearms that all have a hole in the bore to allow them to operate - it might just me a good spot for those sneaky little bristles to hide and just peek into the path of the next bullet down the bore. I've seen it happen more than once. Just saying................ </div></div>

So you take it upon yourself to break down the rifle all the way to a bare barrel and inspect the gas ports?

So all of us using bore snakes and brass brush cleaning rods are all screwed? How do YOU clean out the barrel then? </div></div>

I'm not as high speed as most guys on this forum, but "I" clean my bore the old fashion way on my DI carbine after every 1000 rounds or so. I then use a compressor or some canned air and blow out the gas tube from the upper receiver. I finally run a dry patch or two through the bore to clean up the solvent and other crap that made it's way in there and that's it. Nothing to get excited about...........