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Suppressors Suppressor Data Buyers Guide

bgolf92

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 2, 2017
149
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I am in the suppressor market and have compiled some data on cans that I am looking to purchase. I thought it was easier to put the data in a document where I could easily look and compare each suppressor's specs. I figured I’d also share it with you guys as there are probably other people in my boat. This is purely data I’ve collected and I have not done any of the metering but have taken it from reputable sources which are listed below. I am by no means bashing or praising any one brand and the colors don’t define if a suppressor “failed” or “passed”. FOR THOSE IN THE BACK… Don’t blow up this thread cause the Surefire can , OSS can or another can have a red DB rating. Suppressors have a lot more to offer then just a DB rating, I just like looking at shit with colors. I tried to round all the DB ratings but if you watch a review and I rounded wrong forgive me, shit is close enough. If you got any experience with any of these suppressors I’d love to hear why you chose it so comment or PM me. *If anyone wants to donate the $ so I can actually test these things please feel free*

Sources:
Silencer Shop
Militaryarms Channel YouTube channel
Mrgunsngear Channel YouTube channel
Griffin Armament YouTube channel
Capitol Armory YouTube channel
Ray Sanchez YouTube channel (Thunder Beast Arms)
 

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Nice work. As a guy who does a lot of spreadsheets I dig the color coding.

I would point out that unless the data was produced on a PULSE via good repeatable scientific procedure, it is probably not valid. I say this having had us, as a company, waste years chasing numbers on 2209's, and then realizing the data was just not good. I think some of those sources use meters that are not even milspec and aren't even as "good" as a 2209, such as the LD LXT.

One other thing about metering on an AR15 is that the gas setup has to be comparable in some way to get comparable "shooter's ear" numbers. Just by tuning a gas port you may be able to change the SE number by 5-8 dB, which is a big difference.
 
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The other neat thing to see is on the 300 blk AR, the inversion of the Ultra 7 vs the RC2, it stands out because the numbers are the same just reversed. Quieter at the muzzle on an AR, the energy has to go somewhere (back).

Here are two videos that show an Ultra 9 vs 5 on a Seekins SP10, look at the muzzle vs. shooter's ear (SE) numbers:




SP10 / Ultra 9
Mil R- 136.4, 135.4,135.9,135.3,138 Avg- 136.2
Mil L- 136.1,133.8,133.5,135,134.7 Avg- 134.6
SE - 137.6,140.2,139.2,138.9,136.7 Avg- 138.5

SP10 / Ultra 5
Mil R- 152.9,152,149.8,147.4,150.3 Avg-150.5
Mil L- 151.9,152.7,149.9,145.3,151.2 Avg- 150.2
SE - 134.8,134.4,133.9,135.4,134.8 Avg- 134.7
 
I applaud the effort for sure. It definitely can be a good starting point for the new suppressor buyer. I think at one point or another we've all been there in focusing on DB numbers. That said (and not to rain on any parades) I see things from a totally different perspective now that I've gotten a few suppressors.

DB numbers can easily be fudged or not accurately captured for a whole host of reasons. The mere choice of ammunition in the tests is major. I can load up some 'subsonic' ammo in 300 BLK that will blast your ears but I can also load some that will be extremely quiet.

Basically put unless you are seeing tests run with the same ammo, same machine, doing the tests side by side on the same hosts it's not really that accurate of a measure.

Then in addition to that the actual cartridge and host matters. Cartridges like the 5.56 in a semi auto platform definitely require hearing protection still. Period. If that's the case and you will ALWAYS be wearing ear pro--why potentially compromise other aspects of the suppressor for the one with the 'lowest DB' in the advertisements?

Really it all boils down to purpose and what kind of host(s) more than anything. Personally how the suppressor attaches to the firearm is my number one consideration. After that it's build quality/materials, and so on and so forth. If you are into precision and are shooting primarily on bolt guns the criteria might be completely different than somebody who is shooting on 10.5 inch SBR's all the time.

At very least I would stay open to other ideas (like I just presented) because if you do ultimately you will be happier with your final choice in suppressors. Decibels are fine but they should be considered as 'guidelines' rather than rules.
 
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Thanks for the input Zak. I don't even pretend to know what metering equipment is better then another but I'll definitely look for that in future reviews. Honestly I kinda thought the Ultra 9 would be too long for what I'm looking for but those are solid numbers.

Alamo5000: Thanks for the input. I was hoping dudes with some 1st hand suppressor would chime in. I realize that there's a lot that goes into DB numbers like you mentioned but we gotta start somewhere. Honestly the more research I do the more it's really coming down to my application more than trying to find the quietest can.
 
Hate to say it bgolf92, but of your sources:

Silencer Shop
Militaryarms Channel YouTube channel
Mrgunsngear Channel YouTube channel

^Those three use meters that are unable to capture peak audio and are therefore worse than worthless. I'd strongly suggest removing them from you numbers. I do not know about capital armory's meter.

As stated above, you really cannot compare numbers take on different days with different ammo on different meters (even the good ones). Unless there is a HUGE gap you are well within margin of error. But if you still want to make a list (which does have some value) here are some better sources to pull from:

NFA Talk forum has a spreadsheet with legit testing numbers already, you can find it here once you sign up (free):http://nfatalk.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=0c0f223383cf99d5c6e3d40d07279c88&f=5 You just have to give them credit if you use their numbers.

The Firearms Blog had a guy (Pete) with a proper meter (calibrated 2209) getting good numbers for a while, you can find his work there.

Suppressed Nation youtube uses a legit meter: https://www.youtube.com/c/SuppressedNation/videos

Pew Science is also using a legit meter (you have to pay for at the ear numbers but it is well worth it): https://pewscience.com/sound-signature-reviews

There have been some other one-off head to head suppressor comparisons you can find with good meters (pulse or correctly calibrated and setup BK 2209 only basically) like this: https://www.silencercentral.com/blog/we-tested-27-rifle-suppressors-heres-what-we-found/ (although people will still debate results hotly as noted above). You'll also find people who rent a pulse like this:

Off to an OK start, but a long road ahead.
 
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After using them for close to a decade, we consider 2209 meter numbers taken side by side less than about 5 minutes apart to "most of the time but not always" represent the correct relative relationship (ie can "A" is 2 dB louder than can "B"), but the absolute values are not valid. This was ultimately the result of having two calibrated 2209's and a PULSE. With the 2209's you could have "loud days" and "quiet days" and from session to session everything would change. Like up to 6 dB. With the PULSE, we have a "control can" and it always meters the same on the PULSE over a 2 year period, the difference in averages is less than the S.D. of a single string. B&K pulled a dozen "LNIB"/stored 2209's from storage and only one of them produced numbers statistically the same as a PULSE. Like it or not, the PULSE or mini-PULSE is the only thing on the market that produces good numbers. It is also easy to screw up the experimental procedure, and this is often obvious from the data or simply watching a video of the experiment.
 
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Alamo5000: Thanks for the input. I was hoping dudes with some 1st hand suppressor would chime in. I realize that there's a lot that goes into DB numbers like you mentioned but we gotta start somewhere. Honestly the more research I do the more it's really coming down to my application more than trying to find the quietest can.

"Quietest" is a function of ammunition choices, or rather that to me is one of the biggest contributing factors. Like I said though above, research based on other criteria just as much if not more before making a final call. I've seen/heard of a lot of people bitching about weight of a can. I've handled other people's rifles that when I picked them up I was like 'this would get annoying after a while' because it was so out of balance (IE extremely nose heavy). Not saying weight is a end all and be all because it depends on what you put it on. A 9 inch 300 Blackout will generally have a different feel than a 24" bolt gun.

In a lot of cases I nerd out hard on precision or trying to shoot tiny groups. If that's you the type of mount you pick is a HUGE deal. I typically like cans with some form of taper mount. Some people will get into the weeds with stupid arguments about thread placement but the fact is the taper style of mounts (more than one company uses them) is more repeatable.

Things like Griffin's 'gate lock' might be good for some applications but not mine. That 51T mount, I was like not only no, but hell no. I don't like moving parts. They will eventually wear out and break and in my opinion there are substantially better options out there.

Also stuff like user serviceable cans are kind of interesting but I don't have any. If I was shooting a lot of cast lead bullets it might be a good idea. That said I read the thread on cleaning suppressors (here on this forum) with a lot of interest. I have at least a couple thousand rounds (plus) of subsonic 300BLK through one can and as an experiment I cleaned out enough stuff to make me a believer from my Recce 7.

Another thing that is a 'thing' is gas flow balance. I don't know the technical terms for it so I just made up that name. That means if you are shooting on a bolt gun you can pretty much restrict the flow of gas with no major issues. It can produce insane muzzle numbers, but the minute you put that same can on an AR with some slightly gassy powders used in the ammunition and you will be choked out in no time. What lots of manufacturers do now is try and 'tune' their cans to provide less back pressure to help mitigate that. If you are hunting it's not a big deal, but if you are practicing clearing rooms it's a huge deal. It sucks when you literally can't see because you got stuff in your eyes.

I am going on and on here not just to ramble about it but rather to show more specifically what kind of criteria that can be considered. Meter numbers are important, sure. I got a suppressor from the get go so that I could shoot more and piss off the neighbors less. Also I have animals (dogs) and it makes my shooting a lot more tolerable all around when I try to be considerate of other people. So yes meter numbers matter but they are not a definite end all, nor should they be a starting point in my opinion.

Get the can that meets your needs but that happens to also have good meter numbers. It's easy to get off in the weeds about metering for sure. It's not really needed for most people to understand how various meters work other than having a general idea that is.
 
i think SilencerShop just got a BK Pulse system and will be using that for tests going forward.
first one was their Dead Air Nomad Ti video.
 
"Quietest" is a function of ammunition choices,
Yep!

The most dramatic way to illustrate this is to take "any" .22 pistol and can, and shoot 4 different "subsonic" types of ammo. You'll be able to rate them easily by ear for loudness, and you'll be able to hear the difference in flight noise also!
 
100% Zak, thanks for the post. That is what I meant when I said "huge differences." When you are seeing 6-7db+ from can to can on different days that means that really unless it is on a pulse you can only look at very large 6db+ differences between cans (or ammo) as significant. Which some of this 2209 data does show so it isn't totally useless, but not great. So glad you guys are still publishing pulse data, I hope you keep doing more competitors cans too!
 
Perhaps someone will do an "overlay" graph showing 1) cost, 2) length of time from payment until an actual serial number is produced, 3) DB Rating and 4) Warranty.

Hobo