Looking for advice on finding the most repeatable supressor mounting system. I have a YHM resonator that I swap between several guns and I'm noticing shifts in zero when the can is put back on after being taken off. I'm not referring to poi shifts from unsupressed to supressed. For some reason those are the only threads I find. Just want to make sure my zero stays the same after the can is whored out to the other rifles. I'm trying to replace the muzzle devices and mount on the can. I'd certainly appreciate the help from those of you with knowledge about the topic.
- Thread starter Ohioguy47
- Start date
Which guns are you swapping between? All bolt guns, bolts and semi’s, just semi’s, what types, etc.
Not exactly sure what you are asking but there is usually a POI shift when mounting a suppressor because of a change in barrel harmonics as well as additional weight added when attached. Are you trying to ask for a suppressor mount that does not change the POI when a suppressor is mounted?
I think he's saying that he's not seeing a return to zero after he puts the can back on the rifle where it was previously mounted and zero'ed with. Which is odd. My rifles with their respective cans (KAC, SAS and SF) all return to zero without issues shooting session to shooting session.
@Ohioguy47 -correct me if im wrong.
No, when he removes and re-attaches the suppressor, his zero shifts.
Area 419 mount is the way to go (if that supressor is compatible)
One of the reasons I went with PTP Tactical suppressor is because of no POI shift when reinstalling suppressor. It uses a combination or tri mount and taper mount when the suppressor is mounted. In other words, every time you install the suppressor it installs in the same position, no POI shift.
The most repeatable system without question is direct-thread. But if you're looking for the most repeatable QD, I've been extremely happy with the Dead Air KeyMo system and never once had an issue with POI shift. I hear good things about the TBAC SR system, as well, but no personal experience.
Use a mounting system that primarily uses coarse threads and a taper to secure and align rather than a mounting system that relies on a spring pressure and ratcheting teeth system. The YHM Phantom QD system won't be repeatable unless you crank it the same amount of turns and clicks (which requires a lot of counting) every time you put it on and take it off.
That's exactly what I'm referring to. There's no taper with the yhm mounts.
Bolts and semi's!
This is why KeyMo is king, IMO... It only locks down so far, and then you give it that little extra to get that last "click" for good measure, and it's always locked into the same position each and every time on that weapon.
This is why you always sight in your gun with the suppressor that you plan to use on it. That way you know it's going to be dead-on when you go to use it.
I swap my TBAC Ultra 7 556 and my TBAC Ultra 9 30 cal between several AR's, a 223 Ackley Improved and my Bergara B14R. I do have to keep track of which can is going on which rifle and I do have the DOPE written down and on cards but I can swap from rifle to rifle to rifle to rifle and back and forth and the DOPE cards are always nuts on.
I have a Gemtech rimfire can (I don't recall which) that does similar. I can take it off the Ruger MK3 and put it on the 10/22 and back to the MK3 without issue.
It's only a guess but I'd say it has something to do with your mount or maybe the torque value or something.
EDIT TO ADD: The TBAC rifles all use the CB brake to attach the can. Each rifle has its own dedicated CB brake, except 2 AR's that I use dedicated self timing flash hiding CB attachment things. The Gemtech is a direct thread.
I have a Gemtech rimfire can (I don't recall which) that does similar. I can take it off the Ruger MK3 and put it on the 10/22 and back to the MK3 without issue.
It's only a guess but I'd say it has something to do with your mount or maybe the torque value or something.
EDIT TO ADD: The TBAC rifles all use the CB brake to attach the can. Each rifle has its own dedicated CB brake, except 2 AR's that I use dedicated self timing flash hiding CB attachment things. The Gemtech is a direct thread.
I swap two YHM QD cans around between a bunch rifles. The TI 30 cal goes on as tight, then grip the ring and click the ratchet to the next spot. The YHM SS 5.56 goes on tight then unseat or back off less than a click or maybe 1 click. Both have been repeatable for zero doing this over the last how ever long it took me to put 3oz of carbon in each. I couldn't tell you how many times the retaining ring clicks while I tighten it.
It seems like when I first got the SS, I noticed when I shot it the zero would change. I think i noticed the can would slightly loosen after the first shot or two or three and the POI would change. ITs been so long its hard to remember why i do things a certain way. I might have to go the range and mess around with the SS a little.
I would say I agree relatable mounting is important, and its might be nessasry to mess around with them to get them to work.
I keep reading the first sentence trying to figure out what it means. My YHMs do use course threads and a taper. The spring and stuff on the QDs are just anti rotation.
If you don't require/want secondary retention, I also would suggest a taper mount like the Rearden Atlas system (Q Plan B pattern).
Almost every one of my rifles uses the Rearden Atlas system with their muzzle brakes. My suppressors are always removed when going to and from the range, including comps, and never an issue with POI shifts.
If you need/desire secondary retention, the TBAC SR system looks pretty good.
Almost every one of my rifles uses the Rearden Atlas system with their muzzle brakes. My suppressors are always removed when going to and from the range, including comps, and never an issue with POI shifts.
If you need/desire secondary retention, the TBAC SR system looks pretty good.
The small taper seal is breaking, whether it's because of angle, not enough surface, the tooth washer and spring preventing the taper from engaging, the design and individual parts have its unique quirks. For me it was threading it on firmly, then get final two clicks followed by a wrist snap motion for one mount and a thread on firmly, don't try for the extra 2 clicks but just wrist snap it. (I've since switched to another system)
The design also doesn't seem to utilize the taper was the primary friction locking surface and its use seems more like it's to deal carbon from getting into the threads. You can do this experiment, remove the spring and teeth washer from the mount, thread on the suppressor, give it a snap and see if it locks the way another taper system would. It doesn't, not in my experience. However, could've been an out of spec mount, not sure.
Compare it to a simple Plan A, Plan B, Atlas, Xeno, the new YHM SRX, etc where the larger taper surface combined with threads creates the friction lock when it's threaded on firmly without some external factor that could prevent a user from mating the surfaces of the taper together consistently.
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I prefer the direct thread connection, cut on my lathe turned barrel and muzzle threads with a live center. Straight threads centered on the bore, will repeat from rifle to rifle as long as the exit holes are large enough to account for a caliber change.
When mine are snug all I would ever get is another half click. IE. The play in the ring making it possible to get one more click. I treat both suppressors the same across half dozen or so mounts for each.
When I was shopping for my first suppressor repeatability was a concern. I ran across PTP Tactical. Because I wanted to run it on various rifles with different barrel threads their flash hider/muzzle brake setup seemed the best solution. Their muzzle devices have a three lug configuration so the suppressor will only go on in one orientation. It also has a taper seal at the rear. The suppressor always goes on and seals in the same position every single time. Being a 30 caliber can I can run it on anything 30 caliber and under and is full auto rated if that matters.
