• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Swapping barrels between one action

mynamejeff

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
May 17, 2021
107
73
USA
I have a 6.5CM tikka that I really like. I've got dies/brass/bullets/powder for the 6.5CM and it's a good gun for the longest ranges I can shoot where I live, so I think I'd regret selling it all. I want to start shooting 6BR for PRS, but don't want to buy another action/barrel/scope etc. My barrel is a barrel nut system, so I was thinking of just getting a 6BR barrel and swapping it on my current rig. I'd mark the timing on the barrels to keep the headspace consistent for my brass. Is there any downside to this? Anything I'm not thinking of? I probably wouldn't swap back and forth a lot, but would like to have the option to. Would it cause weird uneven wear on my bolt lugs or the action?
 
Highly not advised with a barrel nut unless you pin the nuts to the barrel (I’ve only seen this done and have no advise on doing it). Cannot be consistent refitting a non-shouldered barrel and is not advised for accuracy
 
  • Like
Reactions: PappyM3
Yeah you can do that but I wouldn’t use a mark on the barrel as the exact mark for headspace. Just get a go/no go gauge for it and set the headspace when swapping barrels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NewsShooter
Just get the BR done up as a shouldered barrel, so your comp barrel you don’t have to worry as much about the headspace variance and when you go back to 6.5CM just take the time setting the headspace and make sure your ammo will still chamber
 
  • Like
Reactions: kthomas
The Tikka bolt has an undercut on the bolt behind the lugs; it may catch the BRs shoulder at the body junction. I had to take down the edge of the undercut on my bolt for it to feed smoothly. I'm using MDT BR mags in an MDT Oryx chassis. Maybe the problem is unique to my setup, just something to look out for.
I would agree to just do a shouldered barrel for a comp rig.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DIBBS
Swapping barrels with a barrel nut is a PITA and I never had one headspace exactly the same when reinstalling even with witness marks.

Sounds like a good excuse to buy an Origin and some shouldered prefits and have a better action in the process.
 
One can buy shouldered pre-fits for Tikka actions, right? That’s what I would do instead of doing one that needs to be timed with a barrel nut.

You can still use the barrel nut with your existing barrel.
 
My first thought when reading your post was that the 6.5 Creedmoor is just fine for PRS, and is actually coming back into favor with a lot of shooters.

That said, I've used permanent thread locker (red Loctite) to do something like what you're thinking of, and it worked fine.

This was with Savage threaded pre-fits from Northland, their precision ground barrel nut, and a Zermatt action. The thread locker goes on in place of grease between the barrel and nut (but not on the threads that go into the action!). One obviously must be careful to keep Loctite out of the action, and must be comfortable setting headspace, but it did work and the two barrels I did this with (a Dasher and 223 AI) maintained headspace and would return to with a few tenths of zero when swapped. The nuts can be removed with the aid of a torch if it doesn't work out to your satisfaction. Ideally one would also have a gunsmith either thread the nut for set screws or pin the nut in place.

I got the idea from a long time member (reubenski) who has since deleted his account, and with it all of his posts.

Still, I much prefer shouldered barrels. Gluing barrel nuts on was an interesting experiment because I already had the parts on hand to try it. Every barrel I've purchased since has either been a shouldered pre-fit or a premium blank cut to the action by y gunsmith.

If you can, my advice would be for your new 6mm BR barrel to be shouldered.
 
I know that some love the Tikka actions but man getting an origin and using pre fits is so much better imo. Also, barrels for origins are easy to come by. There's a reason with all my other actions I have and have had, I don't give up my origins and will probably buy another. Jmo though
 
Thanks everyone. Good info here and I really appreciate it. Now I’m kinda wondering if I should just shoot the 6.5. So far I’ve been shooting 223 TAC pretty well but wanted to try out open. I shoot suppressed (nomad with e brake) so the gun isn’t super flat. Weighs about 22lbs. I like crown ridge barrel works barrels since they’re cheap and shoot well. I’ve always liked the barrel nut so I can set my own headspace. Is there any other advantage to a shouldered prefit other than headspace repeatability? I’ve also read about tikka’s and 6br and most didn’t have feeding issues so I’m a little worried now with what I read here. I don’t want to have to modify my action.

I was eying the mac bros evo 2 action with a crown ridge barrel as well. I’d like to stick with tikka since I’m so used to their triggers and all my bolt guns have identical tikka trigger pulls.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tx_Aggie
My first thought when reading your post was that the 6.5 Creedmoor is just fine for PRS, and is actually coming back into favor with a lot of shooters.

That said, I've used permanent thread locker (red Loctite) to do something like what you're thinking of, and it worked fine.

This was with Savage threaded pre-fits from Northland, their precision ground barrel nut, and a Zermatt action. The thread locker goes on in place of grease between the barrel and nut (but not on the threads that go into the action!). One obviously must be careful to keep Loctite out of the action, and must be comfortable setting headspace, but it did work and the two barrels I did this with (a Dasher and 223 AI) maintained headspace and would return to with a few tenths of zero when swapped. The nuts can be removed with the aid of a torch if it doesn't work out to your satisfaction. Ideally one would also have a gunsmith either thread the nut for set screws or pin the nut in place.

I got the idea from a long time member (reubenski) who has since deleted his account, and with it all of his posts.

Still, I much prefer shouldered barrels. Gluing barrel nuts on was an interesting experiment because I already had the parts on hand to try it. Every barrel I've purchased since has either been a shouldered pre-fit or a premium blank cut to the action by y gunsmith.

If you can, my advice would be for your new 6mm BR barrel to be shouldered.

Man, Reubenski is gone? What happened there?

I agree. 6.5 cm is just fine for PRS - though playing around with different cartridges is fun.

If you want a new cartridge and barrel, I would recommend a shouldered barrel. If not, you can go barrel nut and do the above. Just be advised that there are variables in play now that can make getting consistent headspace, well, inconsistent.
 
Man, Reubenski is gone? What happened there?

I agree. 6.5 cm is just fine for PRS - though playing around with different cartridges is fun.

If you want a new cartridge and barrel, I would recommend a shouldered barrel. If not, you can go barrel nut and do the above. Just be advised that there are variables in play now that can make getting consistent headspace, well, inconsistent.

Nothing bad:

 
  • Like
Reactions: kthomas
Thanks everyone. Good info here and I really appreciate it. Now I’m kinda wondering if I should just shoot the 6.5. So far I’ve been shooting 223 TAC pretty well but wanted to try out open. I shoot suppressed (nomad with e brake) so the gun isn’t super flat. Weighs about 22lbs. I like crown ridge barrel works barrels since they’re cheap and shoot well. I’ve always liked the barrel nut so I can set my own headspace. Is there any other advantage to a shouldered prefit other than headspace repeatability? I’ve also read about tikka’s and 6br and most didn’t have feeding issues so I’m a little worried now with what I read here. I don’t want to have to modify my action.

I was eying the mac bros evo 2 action with a crown ridge barrel as well. I’d like to stick with tikka since I’m so used to their triggers and all my bolt guns have identical tikka trigger pulls.

You might already know this, but if you want to stick with the Tikka trigger you can buy a stripped action from J&A Outdoors and barrel it how you like:

 
  • Like
Reactions: mynamejeff