Gunsmithing Swapping Savage Barrels Back and forth

[THE MGD]

Got a question about savage's barrel nut and barrel swapping.

Rifle in question is a Savage 10FPSR LE 308win with a 22" stock barrel. with my 8" suppressor it puts it at a 30".

For hunting season I would like to swap it to a shorter barrel to accommodate barrel and suppressor combined length (18"bbl? maybe). Then I would like to swap it back to the 22" after hunting season for punching paper.

Will swapping back and forth in this fashion hurt the barrels?

Hunting distance: Under 250yrds, ideally within 100.
Target shooting: 400 - 600yards

Also any recommendations on BBL length or brands and if I should upgrade the recoil lug or nut while the barrels off.
Thanks

 

[jbjh]

Won't hurt anything as long as you're careful. Upgrading the nut and lug are worth it, but be aware that the thicker lug will push the nut forward in the channel and the lug is longer than factory. You might have to do a little cleanup on the inletting (just had to do this on a new Manners).

 

[fryj00]

Swapping barrels won't hurt anything as long as you properly set the headspace and torque the nut. You're sticking with the same caliber?

 

[shoots100]

I would cut it down to 16.5" and make it a dedicated suppressed rifle, and Buy/Build another savage rifle for target practice.
I cut one down for easier movement in ground blinds. I use subsonic loads without a suppressor(because NY sucks) and have taken coyote and deer out to 100 yards with it. I shoot it out to 200 yards confidently with full house loads, but the muzzle blast is brutal.

 

[JWV]

I swap savage barrels all the time. Get yourself some go gauges or a fired case that has been FL sized as your go. It is easy, but really make sure you get everything spaced and torqued correctly as nobody likes barrels that come unscrewed.

 

[THE MGD]

Thanks for all the good info.
a 16.5 does look great, I didn't think I could cut it past 18" without damaging my suppressor. At 16.5" will muzzle blast be an issue or visible and will the rifle still be hearing safe with subs and supers?
Also what's a good twist rate for a 16.5" barrel? I run 175 and 180s now, sometimes ill fire 168s but that's the lowest I've gone.

 

[Danco411]

I swap barrels like underwear. Sometimes just for something to do. My XLR chassis gets swapped from .308, .260 and 22-250 for range sessions. My hunting rifles swap .243, .308 and .223. I also have cut and crowned quit a few. Is a Savage thing and you can get hooked on it.

I cut a 22" sporter down to 18" and it shoots great. Still sub minute groups. It went from 2650 FPS to 2570. I'm sure 16.5 would not be an issue. See if you can pick up a used hog hunter barrel. They are 20" light varmint contour with a threaded .750 end that you can screw your can right on. If the 20 is too long you can cut and thread from there and still have a good contour. I see them for sale on savage shooters forum all the time for about $100.

 

[fryj00]

Thanks for all the good info.
a 16.5 does look great, I didn't think I could cut it past 18" without damaging my suppressor. At 16.5" will muzzle blast be an issue or visible and will the rifle still be hearing safe with subs and supers?
Also what's a good twist rate for a 16.5" barrel? I run 175 and 180s now, sometimes ill fire 168s but that's the lowest I've gone.

You will need 1-in-10 twist for those bullet weights. 16 inch barrel will be loud even with a good can. My Savage 10FP is 18 with a small can. It's much quieter with the can but still need muffs. It makes a pretty wicked high pressure hiss. Without a can, 18 is LOUD.

 

[PowerstrokeOBX]

I swap barrels like underwear. Sometimes just for something to do. My XLR chassis gets swapped from .308, .260 and 22-250 for range sessions. My hunting rifles swap .243, .308 and .223. I also have cut and crowned quit a few. Is a Savage thing and you can get hooked on it.

I cut a 22" sporter down to 18" and it shoots great. Still sub minute groups. It went from 2650 FPS to 2570. I'm sure 16.5 would not be an issue. See if you can pick up a used hog hunter barrel. They are 20" light varmint contour with a threaded .750 end that you can screw your can right on. If the 20 is too long you can cut and thread from there and still have a good contour. I see them for sale on savage shooters forum all the time for about $100.

What did you use to crown it?

Could you locktite the nut on the barrel so you don't have to headspace it every time?


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[fryj00]

What did you use to crown it?

Could you locktite the nut on the barrel so you don't have to headspace it every time?


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1. I would not recommend that. I would rather KNOW that the barrel is headspaced correctly every time because I measured it. It really isn't difficult to do.

2. You would have to have a barrel nut for every barrel

3. You would likely never be able to fit that barrel through the spindle of a lathe again. (in case you needed work done for some reason)

 

[PowerstrokeOBX]

Swapping Savage Barrels Back and forth

3. You would likely never be able to fit that barrel through the spindle of a lathe again. (in case you needed work done for some reason)

Depending the compound you use the nut could still be removed.

How much does a nut cost?!

 

[fryj00]

Depending the compound you use the nut could still be removed.

How much does a nut cost?!

I am willing to bet that you could just headspace and torque faster than you can clean up and reapply some permanent adhesive.

I paid $40 for my stainless precision nut from Northalnder. I'm sure you could find used factory nuts for less. Beware, Savage barrel nuts all look the same on the outside but are not the same on this inside (large/small shank).

 

[PowerstrokeOBX]

I am willing to bet that you could just headspace and torque faster than you can clean up and reapply some permanent adhesive.

Maybe I am wrong but I don't think you are understanding what I am thinking. You set the headspace the first time. Mark the barrel, nut, and reliever. Remove the barrel and locktite the nut on one time with correct marked headspace. This essentially turns your barrel into a shouldered barrel. That nut stays on the barrel all the time. You would have to have a nut for every barrel though. Once it's setup all you have to do is unscrew the old barrel and screw in the new barrel to the marks. It would only take 1.5 minutes to completely swap barrels and you don't have to headspace everytime.

Or I could be completely wrong.


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[fryj00]

Maybe I am wrong but I don't think you are understanding what I am thinking. You set the headspace the first time. Mark the barrel, nut, and reliever. Remove the barrel and locktite the nut on one time with correct marked headspace. This essentially turns your barrel into a shouldered barrel. That nut stays on the barrel all the time. You would have to have a nut for every barrel though. Once it's setup all you have to do is unscrew the old barrel and screw in the new barrel to the marks. It would only take 1.5 minutes to completely swap barrels and you don't have to headspace everytime.

Or I could be completely wrong.


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Yeah, I understood what you meant. I just think it sounds problematic and shortcuts usually lead to undesirable results.

 

[Danco411]

Maybe I am wrong but I don't think you are understanding what I am thinking. You set the headspace the first time. Mark the barrel, nut, and reliever. Remove the barrel and locktite the nut on one time with correct marked headspace. This essentially turns your barrel into a shouldered barrel. That nut stays on the barrel all the time. You would have to have a nut for every barrel though. Once it's setup all you have to do is unscrew the old barrel and screw in the new barrel to the marks. It would only take 1.5 minutes to completely swap barrels and you don't have to headspace everytime.

Yes you can do this. Lots do but I find it not necessary and do like fryj200 and just headspace and set each time. Every new caliber I get I buy a go gauge. One set of precision ground nut and lug from NSS that stays with the receiver. Only the barrel gets swapped. I do not torque the barrel nut anymore. Set head space finger tight and 1/4 turn tighter. You don't need massive torque as all the nut does is set the space. The barrel will never come unscrewed. I read that some Savage bench rest shooters leave them just finger tight. 1/4 turn is about 20lbs and easy enough to get off. I can swap barrels in about 10-15 minutes.

I use the 79 degree crowning tool from Brownells. It has interchangeable pilots for calibers. Works like a charm. Every barrel I have recrowned pick up a 1/4 minute in accuracy. I also have a PTG recessed crown tool in .22 that works great too. You can buy the tool for $70 with one pilot or pay a gunsmith $50 each time.