Gunsmithing Switch Barrel Questions

[Smokin]

Wondering if its worth it before I commit to it. Do you have to remove the scope each time you switch the barrel? Can you switch the barrel often or will this cause damage to the threads? Do you put anti-seize on the threads? Do/can the receiver and barrel need to have indexing marks? Will the barrel markings (ie GAP Logo and Caliber designation) always end up on the same spot? Will the load for that barrel change after its removed and reinstalled?

 

[Hateca]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

It can be done and some still do it.

If you have the right tools the barrel can be removed without touching the scope. The markings will end up at the same place if you torque the barrel the same way every time, and yes it's a good idea to have indicating marks, it helps take the guess work out of putting on the barrel. Yes you can damage the threads but you would have to have done something very bad.

Having said all that every switch barrel rifle I built the owner would bring the extra barrel back within a year to have it put on its own receiver. Changing barrels can get old.

 

[Jeffvn]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

I agree with HateCA it gets old. I do it on my 7WSM, swapping an 26" barrel short throated for AI Magazine length rounds with a 28" F-Class long-throated barrel. I also have a .260 barrerl for the same rifle, but rearely have it installed.

My new Target Rig is also a swap barrel/swap bolt (7WSM and straight .284) I don't swap there so far - just use the 7WSM -
I had the two barrels and bolts ready to install so that I could swap if I wanted.

JEffVN

 

[Victor N TN]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It can be done and some still do it.

If you have the right tools the barrel can be removed without touching the scope. The markings will end up at the same place if you torque the barrel the same way every time, and yes it's a good idea to have indicating marks, it helps take the guess work out of putting on the barrel. Yes you can damage the threads but you would have to have done something very bad.

Having said all that every switch barrel rifle I built the owner would bring the extra barrel back within a year to have it put on its own receiver. Changing barrels can get old.
</div></div>

+1...

I agree with Randy. However one of my match rifles has several barrels threaded and fit to the receiver. I use the extra barrels primarily for testing or special purposes.

I knew it was a pain in the butt before I started it though.

Good luck with your choice.

 

[Monkeyman]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

I have a couple so I'll offer my $0.02.

First of all; purpose. If you have a Remmy 870 30" duck gun that goes ducking three times per season, it is worth having an 18" home-defense barrel on it the rest of the year - just changing the barrel completely changes the use and effectiveness of the gun. The same applies to a rifle, if you have a .243 for year-round varminting but go deer hunting a couple times in a season then a .308 switchbarrel is worth it, you'll only change it in November and change it back in January.

I have a Remmy 700 with .243 and .308 barrels, both of which are seasonal. The rings/mounts are quick-release Leupold and the barrel is not bedded, just the action. The recoil lug is pinned to the action.

Changing barrels involves: 1. Remove scope, clamp barrel in vise, open floor plate, pass wood spanner through action, unscrew action (still torqued in stock), reverse with new barrel, re-zero. It took me longer to type this than to do the job.

Another application might be with .223 and .300 Whisper; the Whisper may be task-specific, the .223 an all-rounder.

 

[Rootshot]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

I have a Surgeon based switchbarrel. The integral recoil lug in this action design simplies barrel changes.

As Monkeyman states, it is really fast once you've done it a few times.

Removing & replacing the scope is a cinch with good tactical rings and a torque wrench.

I do put anti-seize on the threads of new barrels. After that you don't have to bother because you have enough on the action threads to prevent galling.

I torque barrels to 50ft-lbs. This seems to be just right. I do own a rear-entry action wrench that minimizes stress on the action. For a barrel vise, I use a Davidson style aluminum vise and wrap barrels in paper to prevent marring.

Markings on barrels don't move as long as your torque is consistent. Indexing or headspacing is not necessary.

Personally, I love my switchbarrel flexibility. .308 for most shooting and a 6.5-08AI for long range / competition.

The biggest pain is re-zeroing the scope between barrels. Since this is generally no more than 2 MOA off, this is pretty minor.

--Rootshot

 

[Victor N TN]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rootshot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... ...

The biggest pain is re-zeroing the scope between barrels. Since this is generally no more than 2 MOA off, this is pretty minor.

--Rootshot </div></div>

I can change barrels on my match rifle without removing the scope or even pulling the action. I keep an index card with the adjustment data in the rifle case. It's something like "X" clicks down & "Y" clicks left. Then reverse it when the barrels switch again. Sit down & draw it out and write it down however you can to make the adjustments.

 

[Blackhawk95]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

I just got my switch barrel setup going last week. The rifle is Win M70. Right now Ive got 3 barrels for it. 2 are Broughton 5c's in 6mmBR and .243AI the other barrel is a Lilja .243AI that I use for hunting and fireforming AI brass.

It takes about 5 mins to completely swap barrels.

 

[B.Bates]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

i am having myself a switch barrel set up as well.

i went with 243 and 7-08, with all the wait times on barrels, smiths now a days why not get an extra barrel

 

[scotharr]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

I'm having a 243 / 308 switch setup made also. With as much dough as we plop down on action, stock, trigger, bottom metal, and scope, it seems much more economical to get a switch barrel than buying two separate rifles. 243 for up to deer-sized game and competitions and the 308 for larger game.

 

[our gang]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

If you start out with a Savage (or soon the new Marlin XL) you can do it with just a headspace gauge and the barrel nut wrench.
Brownells has the barrels, nut wrench and gauges for Savages now.

 

[NaHa]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

And a fellow Hider, sells wrenches: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=781755#Post781755

 

[was21]

Re: Switch Barrel Questions

I have a switchbarrel setup on a Win 70 in 243/308 built by Derrick Martin/Accuracy Speaks that is a great shooter.
I was thinking about doing up my Surgeon as a multi also.

The fixed lugs make them an easier swapover than a Rem [unless you have the remmy's lug pinned] IMO.

FWIW

Wes