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Switch Barrel Rifles Questions

SHKyle

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Minuteman
Apr 25, 2017
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How many with switch barrel rigs actually switch on the line. I’m contemplating a build for a PRS rig and also utilize the rig for training in a different caliber. My question pertains to is it better to just have two rifles and switch back and forth when one gets hot? Or maybe go the route of two switch barreled builds and be able to swap??
 
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I use a Bighorn TL3 with an American Rifle Company BarLoc. Using Savage pre-fit barrels and the appropriate headspace gages, I can switch at the range in well under 5 minutes. I would use my .223 for practice and even some matches (NRA High Power) but would switch to my 6mm Comp Match before a match, and confirm my zero.
 
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If the only reason you're considering this route is because you have a hot barrel there is much easier ways to manage that at the range. If it's to extend the life of your match barrel it makes total sense. It's pretty straight forward changing barrels and verifying zero before heading home. With that said one day you'll get caught with your practice barrel on the day before a match and no time to go to the range. Shouldn't be the end of the world but it will get in your head some.
 
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since you’re running prefits I’ll ask another question that I think is prudent to the topic:

I’m assuming you handload (if not I think the question is still valid). Do you notice changes in your group size when you remove and replace the same barrel? I’m curious if the small changes in headspace from installation to installation (that would also alter the length of your jump) make an appreciable difference in your group size. I’m betting not but have always at least theorized that this might be the case
 
It is more the method you use to switch than the action. I was looking at doing this just recently and while the smith was willing to fit the lug with a Deviant, they said it was easier with a Curtis. Point here, talk to your smith and see what they are comfortable with. They may bring up things like indexing concerns since every barrel they cut will have a different timing. You mind find the conversation will change your mind, at the very least you will understand what you are really getting by going that route.
 
It is more the method you use to switch than the action. I was looking at doing this just recently and while the smith was willing to fit the lug with a Deviant, they said it was easier with a Curtis. Point here, talk to your smith and see what they are comfortable with. They may bring up things like indexing concerns since every barrel they cut will have a different timing. You mind find the conversation will change your mind, at the very least you will understand what you are really getting by going that route.


I was leaning towards the vector at the moment. I did like the bighorn or the impact but the vector represented an easier switch in the field with their design.
 
I have two switch barrels that I can switch on the line in about 2 or 3 mins. Return to zero and maintain headspace to the thou. No small fiddley bits like headspace guages needed. And my barrels will switch in between the two rifles equally. Bighorn TL3's

Did you have to have your barrels special chambered or threaded with your setup?
 
Guys don't over think this. First everything has to be clean. Then it's no different than changing a light bulb. A shoulder barrel greatly simplifies things. I've done over 7000 barrels in the last ten years. 99% of them I didn't have the action in hand. How difficult can it be. If indexing the lettering is important then the GS would need the action one time to establish the location. It's very easy.
Did you have to have your barrels special chambered or threaded with your setup?
 
The set screw in their tenon might work as well, but their introductory video demo'ing the switch clearly shows a zero shift.

I agree with the above statement, when you head space off of a shoulder (including the shoulder of a permanent barrel nut) and tighten to a repeatable torque value, the zero shift is going to be minimal - especially for the game most of us are playing. Now, if you're in the Benchrest score competitions, then you may want to double check it, but for me, tighten it all down, and it's good to go.

I also have a few Savage style prefits that I loctited the barrel nut at headspace and

I have started to do this with my barrels as well - but a little differently. I'm still using the ARC Barloc on my Bighorn TL3, each barrel has it's own nut that is loctited on. With the BarLoc I still use the headspace gauges, and I don't need a long torque wrench, i use a Borka Kit (PTL2565K ) it has what I need in a little kit for the entire rifle (action screws, BarLoc, and scope rings). If you use a TL3 and just a shouldered barrel (talk PVA or Keystone Accuracy to name a couple) and you use the flats on the barrel like @reubenski shows above - it would be very consistent with no real concerns for zero shift.