t3x do it all rifle

[Tallan87]

So a year ago I bought a t3x lite (I think thats the standard model) 6.5 creedmoore with intentions of it being my hunting rifle. A few months ago I thought about chopping down the barrel and getting it threaded for a supressor but my local smith stated there was not enough thickness to provide the proper shoulder for a 5/8 thread.

coming back around to this train of thought again I am looking at setting up the tikka as a do it all rifle. something that can take game and also be comfortable shooting out to 500 yards I really don't think I will be doing long strings of fire or competition shooting. I would like it to be handy (read shorter) and light.

I like the idea of a short rifle (16.5-18" barrel) threaded and in a light weight chassis perhaps the element 3.0 also looking at a krg bravo?


has anyone gone this route? using the factory barrel in more than just a hunting application.

re barreling is out of the question for now unless factory barrels bring good money.

 

[Supersubes]

Nothing unusual about what you want to do.

 

[winniethepooh]

I actually bought my 20” 6.5 ctr for the same reasons. Light enough for hunting for me

 

[LuvDog]

Get it threaded to 1/2-28 if 5/8 doesn't work

 

[CrabsandFootball]

Different tools for different jobs.

The things that make a good hunting rifle are the opposite of a good target gun.

Chasting compromises is not fun.

 

[LeftyJason]

So a year ago I bought a t3x lite (I think thats the standard model) 6.5 creedmoore with intentions of it being my hunting rifle. A few months ago I thought about chopping down the barrel and getting it threaded for a supressor but my local smith stated there was not enough thickness to provide the proper shoulder for a 5/8 thread.

coming back around to this train of thought again I am looking at setting up the tikka as a do it all rifle. something that can take game and also be comfortable shooting out to 500 yards I really don't think I will be doing long strings of fire or competition shooting. I would like it to be handy (read shorter) and light.

I like the idea of a short rifle (16.5-18" barrel) threaded and in a light weight chassis perhaps the element 3.0 also looking at a krg bravo?


has anyone gone this route? using the factory barrel in more than just a hunting application.

re barreling is out of the question for now unless factory barrels bring good money.

A few questions for you.

Do you have a suppressor yet? If not you can always go for a thunderbeast since thunder beast makes face mount CB brakes in 9/16-24. In that case you can keep it the same length if you wanted to, thread it, and not worry about having a shoulder.

Just a note. Many companies do not recommend going 1/2-28 on 6.5 or 30 cal sizes.

Bravos are great. Also give you getter capacity than factory.

One thing to keep in mind is that Tikkas are consistent enough that you can buy shouldered prefits for it.

I put together a post awhile ago on alot of the options for tikkas.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418

 

[LuvDog]

Who has crown shouldered 5/8 brakes? I’d like to get my superlite barrel threaded for a brake... and I’d prefer to stay at 5/8 of possible

 

[LeftyJason]

Who has crown shouldered 5/8 brakes? I’d like to get my superlite barrel threaded for a break... and I’d prefer to stay at 5/8 of possible

You are sol on 5/8. I measured my t3x lite 0.600" back from the muzzle and measured 0.6175". It is smaller at the muzzle. That is smaller than the published minimum for 5/8-24 class 3 threads which is what you want.

 

[Aaros143]

You mean like this?

 

[Tallan87]

the 9/16 is definitely an option. I dont have a can for it yet so I can specialize which one I get.

 

[Tallan87]

You mean like this?

specs?

 

[LeftyJason]

the 9/16 is definitely an option. I dont have a can for it yet so I can specialize which one I get.

I would get a brake type mount so that it is easier to move around to other guns or future guns or rebarrels vs direct thread cans. The overwhelming recommendation here is for thunderbeast arms (Zak Smith and TBACRAY are active here).

 

[cliffy110]

I like where you're going with this. The idea has a name. You're going for a "general purpose" rifle or GP. The Steyr Scout is a GP rifle and the idea is to be good at any number of tasks while not necessarily the best at any specific task. You don't need a "scout" to be a very good GP rifle and many have argued that a light, handy bolt gun with a low power variable optic will work great from 10 to 500 yards. I'm a big believer in this kind of system and the T3X Lite is a perfect platform for that.

A GP rifle is not really easy. As was pointed out, things that make a good target rifle are not the things that make a good hunting rifle. It is MUCH easier to specialize than to generalize.

Other things to consider is the sling. I find Andy's Leather Rhodesian 1" to be fantastic as both a carry strap and a loop sling for shooting stability in the field.

If you haven't yet, you really should look into a Practical Rifle class like the ones given by Randy Cain. Your rifle will be idea for his class and you'll be running it like a fighting rifle by the end. What one can do with a GP is remarkable if you're ready to put in the effort. You'll also be confident in making first round hits at reasonable distances (not 1000 yards) every time. Well worth the time and money invested.

 

[drew_235]

You mean like this?

Am I seeing correctly that you have the slings attached to opposite sides front and back? Is there an advantage to doing it that way?

 

[Aaros143]

specs?

Tikka T3X CTR 6.5 chopped to 16"
KRG Bravo stock // MDT Mags
Murphy Precision 20 MOA base ( One of the nicest bases I've ever seen)
Nightforce NX8 2-20 MIL XT Reticle
Silencerco Saker on a Q plan B attachment system // Should have gone with the Griffin Plan A

 

[Aaros143]

Am I seeing correctly that you have the slings attached to opposite sides front and back? Is there an advantage to doing it that way?

Yes. It helps the rifle ride a bit higher.

 

[LeftyJason]

Meant to get this up yesterday.

Measured my t3x barrel last night for different diameters and how long it was at those diameters.

Data is diameter, amount to chop off, and (barrel length). Recommended diameters come from Tbac thread specs for shoulder diameters.

Muzzle 0.616, (24.33)
.620, 1.358 (23)
.630, 2.57 (21.75)
.640, 3.81 (20.5)
.650, 5.05 (19.25)
.660, 6.27 (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662, 6.625 (17.7)
0.673, 8.08 (16.25)

Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of factory tupperware 0.711 (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 shoulder 0.725 (9.33)

 

[Tallan87]

how does the factory contour compare to a light palma? and would that suit the build better? I have no issues with the factory stock at the moment. If I could fit a thicker better suited contour in the factory stock I can use my stock money to buy the barrel. for now.

 

[LuvDog]

You are sol on 5/8. I measured my t3x lite 0.600" back from the muzzle and measured 0.6175". It is smaller at the muzzle. That is smaller than the published minimum for 5/8-24 class 3 threads which is what you want.
View attachment 7464828

What is the published minimum for 5/8-24 class 3 threads.

And if 1/2-28 is not recommended for 6.5.... what are the options? Just re-barrel?

 

[drew_235]

Here are a couple of rifles that fall in line with what you are trying to accomplish - I'm going to list everything attached to these rifles so you can add/subtract weight as required. The top rifle is a T3x Lite in 6.5CM that I had chopped to 16.5" and threaded 1/2-28. In this picture, it was mounted in a surplus varmint stock that weighs ~3oz more than the "Lite" stock. The scope is a Vortex Razor LH 3-15x42 with Butler Creek caps and a Banish 30 suppressor.

This rifle is a stainless T3x Lite in .22-250 that has been shortened to 20", mounted in a KRG Bravo. The additions that are tough to see are the KRG polymer m-lok pic rail at the front of the forend, a Magpul 2 slot ARCA rail, and a QD sling point on the other side of the forend. The scope is a Vortex Razor HD-LHT 3-15x50 and the can is a Banish 30.

1.5 pounds is the difference in actual weight. If I was going to sit in a blind/hide, I would take the KRG Bravo. If I was going to hike, I would take the OEM stock which seems to carry and balance a lot better (but that may be that there is 3.5" less barrel on the 6.5CM). If you don't already own a suppressor, get one on order. Shooting these rifles with the shortened barrels is obnoxious without a can.
I would have no problem taking either to the range for a plinking session, but make sure your expectations on the rate of fire are inline with these lightweight barrels and what they can handle. Ultimately, I'd suggest making your rifle into a suppressed hunting rig and, if the need arises, get another one to play with at the range.

 

[Tallan87]

Here are a couple of rifles that fall in line with what you are trying to accomplish - I'm going to list everything attached to these rifles so you can add/subtract weight as required. The top rifle is a T3x Lite in 6.5CM that I had chopped to 16.5" and threaded 1/2-28. In this picture, it was mounted in a surplus varmint stock that weighs ~3oz more than the "Lite" stock. The scope is a Vortex Razor LH 3-15x42 with Butler Creek caps and a Banish 30 suppressor.

View attachment 7465767

This rifle is a stainless T3x Lite in .22-250 that has been shortened to 20", mounted in a KRG Bravo. The additions that are tough to see are the KRG polymer m-lok pic rail at the front of the forend, a Magpul 2 slot ARCA rail, and a QD sling point on the other side of the forend. The scope is a Vortex Razor HD-LHT 3-15x50 and the can is a Banish 30.
View attachment 7465768

1.5 pounds is the difference in actual weight. If I was going to sit in a blind/hide, I would take the KRG Bravo. If I was going to hike, I would take the OEM stock which seems to carry and balance a lot better (but that may be that there is 3.5" less barrel on the 6.5CM). If you don't already own a suppressor, get one on order. Shooting these rifles with the shortened barrels is obnoxious without a can.
I would have no problem taking either to the range for a plinking session, but make sure your expectations on the rate of fire are inline with these lightweight barrels and what they can handle. Ultimately, I'd suggest making your rifle into a suppressed hunting rig and, if the need arises, get another one to play with at the range.

so that is the factory 6.5 cm barrel?

I am wondering If I should get a heavier barrel rather than a chassis right now. looking into light palmas as that is what the ctr seems to be. but could go thinner.

 

[drew_235]

so that is the factory 6.5 cm barrel?

I am wondering If I should get a heavier barrel rather than a chassis right now. looking into light palmas as that is what the ctr seems to be. but could go thinner.

Yes, that is the factory barrel. I had ~8" cut off of it and that reduced the barrel weight by about 8 ounces. If you replace the barrel with a heavier variant, you will likely need to open up the barrel slot on the Lite stock to accommodate.
If I were you, I would keep the 6.5CM Lite with the barrel it has and have a local smith chop/thread it. That would be my hunting rifle and range toy for the time being. I would then save up my pennies and buy one of these for a range toy, which would fit really well in a KRG Bravo but a LOT of people run it in the OEM CTR stock and are very happy with it.
However, I said the above with no idea of what type of hunting you do (mixture of walking, sitting, mountains, etc.)

 

[drew_235]

Keep in mind these are just suggestions from TBAC for optimum. Many smith's with cut a 9/16x24 as long as the major barrel od at the muzzle is 630 or more. I personally do not suggest 1/2x28 on anything larger than a 22 cal.

Is that based on strength of the threads?

 

[LeftyJason]

What is the published minimum for 5/8-24 class 3 threads.

And if 1/2-28 is not recommended for 6.5.... what are the options? Just re-barrel?

Published sizes for just the thread od is 0.618-0.625. Recommended od for shoulder diameter for 5/8 is 0.725. A face mount break for suppressor use is possible but not everybody makes one. Only one I've seen so far is thunderbeast but I don't know their requirements for sizes on one.

You can get it cut for 9/16-24. 0.662 recommended for shoulder size. Worst case scenario in that you can't get a face mount type you can do that with a barrel chopped to 18". Depends on your muzzle device though. Direct thread can youre more in trouble. Brake attached can be worked with. A 1/2-28 brake could be opened up.

 

[Tallan87]

the issue is I am getting quotes of 150-200 for the chop and thread.

but a new barrel I have gotten quotes for 450 installed.

I want to maintain a rifle I can hike with.

 

[LeftyJason]

the issue is I am getting quotes of 150-200 for the chop and thread.

but a new barrel I have gotten quotes for 450 installed.

I want to maintain a rifle I can hike with.

Check out long rifles Inc for threading. Phenomenal work though. Including shipping for me was 130.

But you might be better off getting a different barrel. That's up to you. We are here just to help you with what you might not've known.

 

[Tallan87]

was looking at another thread where roggom put his ctr in a sporter stock and converted to standard t3 mags. might be the best route. everything I am reading says a ctr is a light palma barrel. so looking at a 16.5-18" light palma barrel threaded 5/8 in the factory stock inleted.

 

[cliffy110]

The amount of barrel left on the thread minor od/undercut is an average od of .465" bore groove diameter of 224 leaves 0.120" of steel around the bore. I do not trust that small amount of material to maintain its integrity throughout a 1500-3000 round barrel life. My 22.7" Tikka is being cut 9/16x24 and its a 22-250.

Whelp... okay but you realize that every Steyr Scout made in the past decade or so has threads at 1/2"'-20. Yes, that is an odd pitch but it is a .308 cut from the factory with only 1/2" diameter of steel at the muzzle. They don't seem to be suffering.

I've had 2 .308 rifles cut to 1/2-28 for suppressor use and have run them hard. I don't worry about them.

 

[MarinePMI]

Tikka T-3 CTR, rebarreled from .260 to 6.5 CM with a 24" Carbon 6 CF barrel, put into a KRG Bravo with enclosed fore end. If I want to go lighter I can put the regular fore end back on. Moving to AICS mags allows me a hunting legal mag option of 5 rds. I'm unsure if Tikka makes a 5rd CTR mag to be hunting legal in most states...

Hunting suppressed.

 

[drew_235]

Tikka T-3 CTR, rebarreled from .260 to 6.5 CM with a 24" Carbon 6 CF barrel, put into a KRG Bravo with enclosed fore end. If I want to go lighter I can put the regular fore end back on. Moving to AICS mags allows me a hunting legal mag option of 5 rds. I'm unsure if Tikka makes a 5rd CTR mag to be hunting legal in most states...
View attachment 7466722

Hunting suppressed.

View attachment 7466723

What's the weight on this with/without the enclosed forend?

 

[MarinePMI]

With enclosed for end (and ARCA rail), and scope it weighs a little over 12 lbs. I never weighed it with the standard fore end, but the KRG site i believe lists the weight of the components. So you could use that to give a decent estimate.

I found, even for hunting, I like a little bit more weight, so I can see my impacts/splash. If I were mountain hunting (versus overwatch hunting) it'd be a different story. Make your gear fit your hunting, or tailor your hunting to your gear...

 

[drew_235]

With enclosed for end (and ARCA rail), and scope it weighs a little over 12 lbs. I never weighed it with the standard fore end, but the KRG site i believe lists the weight of the components. So you could use that to give a decent estimate.

I found, even for hunting, I like a little bit more weight, so I can see my impacts/splash. If I were mountain hunting (versus overwatch hunting) it'd be a different story. Make your gear fit your hunting, or tailor your hunting to your gear...

That all makes total sense and I'm trying to dial in my systems right now.
Speaking of overwatch hunting - that bottom photo makes it look like you're hunting a golf course.

 

[drew_235]

was looking at another thread where roggom put his ctr in a sporter stock and converted to standard t3 mags. might be the best route. everything I am reading says a ctr is a light palma barrel. so looking at a 16.5-18" light palma barrel threaded 5/8 in the factory stock inleted.

There have been a lot of good ideas in this thread but there is one that I am not sure has been mentioned.
If you're thinking of going with an 18" light palma barrel, you could always just purchase a 20" CTR and sell the current T3x Lite setup. I am not sure if the current rifle has ever been fired, but it should be easy to get rid of right now. Plus, if you want to get a KRG Bravo or XLR Element, you can sell the CTR stock/magazine down the road for $120+ in the PX. The CTR comes threaded 5/8x24 and the stock will fit the barrel...
My T3x Lite barrel was ~1oz/in, so you could conservatively estimate the CTR barrel at 2oz/in and say that you'd only be gaining 4oz by sticking with a factory 20" CTR vs a new barrel from McGowan in the 18" range.

 

[MarinePMI]

That all makes total sense and I'm trying to dial in my systems right now.
Speaking of overwatch hunting - that bottom photo makes it look like you're hunting a golf course.

LOL! You're the second person that has said that, but in actuality, that's a hay field, recently mowed and bailed (I'm actually hunting from the hay bail lot). That hay bail lot is about 20 ft higher than the hay fields and gives 200* FOV overwatch position before you start having to worry about shooting over a road (that heads right up into the Beartooth Mtns). It's pretty cool in the early morning to watch the mulies come down the ravines out of the mountains, and see the whitetails up come out of the river bottoms...