Suppressors TBAC 22 takedown

[mdmp5]

Hello everyone,

Got me a 22 takedown, and keep getting the rear endcap stuck against the shoulder regardless of how tight I wrench it on. It unscrews every time and the cap has to be taken off the muzzle with a wrench. Is there a remedy for this outside of loctite, which Pretty much defeats the purpose of the takedown?

Edited: is it a good idea to secure the rear cap?

Thanks

 

[Krob95]

@Zak Smith may be able to suggest something.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Subscribed. I had the same issue with the TBAC 22 during my 1st session.

 

[Rillhurst]

The “good” pair stays in the Tundra just this purpose...
Plasti Dip as needed.

 

[CountryShooter]

Hello everyone,

Got me a 22 takedown, and keep getting the rear endcap stuck against the shoulder regardless of how tight I wrench it on. It unscrews every time and the cap has to be taken off the muzzle with a wrench. Is there a remedy for this outside of loctite, which Pretty much defeats the purpose of the takedown.

Thanks

It doesn't defeat the purpose. I have an ECCO Machine rimfire can. He used something to keep the end cap from unscrewing. It's still a take down since the muzzle cap comes off. I'm considering doing the same to my .22TD.

 

[mdmp5]

I took a shot and used blue loctite on the threads to try it out.

 

[XTREM HTR16]

I just wait for it to cool down while still on the rifle and then use a crescent wrench on the cap to loosen it.

 

[CountryShooter]

I took a shot and used blue loctite on the threads to try it out.

Post how it works out. Like I said, I'm thinking about doing the same thing with the Loctite to my Takedown.

 

[carbonbased]

Uh oh, I have one in jail! I know some makers use Rocksett to stop end caps from coming off.

edit: I assume the front cap comes off? If not, if you rocksett the back one, there's no way to take it apart (obv).
edit again: Yeah, the front cap comes off. Looked at pics online. Whew.

 

[TBACRAY]

Let cool, grab can by muzzle end pulling up putting a little pressure on rear cap. Should spin right off.

 

[XTREM HTR16]

Let cool, grab can by muzzle end pulling up putting a little pressure on rear cap. Should spin right off.

Saving this... thanks Ray!

 

[mdmp5]

Post how it works out. Like I said, I'm thinking about doing the same thing with the Loctite to my Takedown.

Ok, turns out putting some blue loctite on the rear cap was the money. Can works like a charm now. I didn’t mention it earlier but it was spraying the rounds before the loctite.

One thing I’ve noticed with cans that disassemble, is if the caps are not on with hard positive engagement against the baffle stack, vibration is induced, which causes random points of impact between shots, sometimes as much as several feet away from point of aim. Probably thru mechanism of baffle rubs. Saw this years ago with my Shark Jaws can. I’ve also seen this same thing happen not with a suppressor, but with the end weights on a 30” stabilizer on my target compound bow. The weights were loose, creating a loud twang crank sound, making the arrows miss the point of aim every time. Solution is easy though in either case; with the can, just secure the rear cap with some blue loctite (or red for centerfire if it gets crazy hot) and it’s all good.

I’m very happy with the 22 takedown

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Ok, turns out putting some blue loctite on the rear cap was the money. Can works like a charm now. I didn’t mention it earlier but it was spraying the rounds before the loctite.

One thing I’ve noticed with cans that disassemble, is if the caps are not on with hard positive engagement against the baffle stack, vibration is induced, which causes random points of impact between shots, sometimes as much as several feet away from point of aim. Probably thru mechanism of baffle rubs. Saw this years ago with my Shark Jaws can. I’ve also seen this same thing happen not with a suppressor, but with the end weights on a 30” stabilizer on my target compound bow. The weights were loose, creating a loud twang crank sound, making the arrows miss the point of aim every time. Solution is easy though in either case; with the can, just secure the rear cap with some blue loctite (or red for centerfire if it gets crazy hot) and it’s all good.

I’m very happy with the 22 takedown

Thanks for sharing your experience with the LocTite.
I'll have to give that a try next time I have my "visit" with the jailed TBAC.
Happy New Year

 

[Jefe's Dope]

I also use blue loctite and just remove the muzzle cap for cleaning.

 

[carbonbased]

I have this can as well. Haven’t used it yet, but it looks nicely designed except for that muzzle endcap unscrewing. None of my other suppressors do that.

@TBACRAY I will try your technique. However, is there any downside to Rocksetting the rear cap on? Seems like I could still get the stack out for cleaning.

Btw instead of plastidipping a wrench with serrations, for applicstions like this try a German Knipex Pliers Wrench. They have smooth and flat jaws. Something like +1:10power ratio to really grip stuff (go easy on suppressors!).

They also sorta replace a bunch of sockets in a lightweight tool bag (unless you’ve got some nuts in tight places).

I like the 150mm for gun stuff. They also make them with fat handles (don’t like them). https://www.knipex.com/products/pip...&sort_by=field_top_product&items_per_page=100

 

[Holliday]

I designed this for my 22TD and had my brother 3d print one for me. Works great! I did leave out the middle hole on the 3D print version though.

 

[carbonbased]

I designed this for my 22TD and had my brother 3d print one for me. Works great! I did leave out the middle hole on the 3D print version though.

View attachment 7787544

Oh, hey! So it looks like it’s big enough to fit over the can while it’s attached to the gun and then you move it fwd to engage, right? Nice. I’d prob buy one (without the middle hole, good call).

TBAC should incorporate this idea with their included plastic wrench.

 

[Holliday]

Oh, hey! So it looks like it’s big enough to fit over the can while it’s attached to the gun and then you move it fwd to engage, right?

Yea that was the idea, to have it slide down the can but retain some of the strength of a closed wrench design. The final revision looks a little different but you get the idea.

 

[carbonbased]

Well, if you want to sell one, let me know. I found a site that sells other types of suppressor tools (not TBAC ones, unfortunately).

SUPPRESSORTOOLS.COM | Pooler | 31322

www.suppressortools.com

 

[Holliday]

Well I am not set up for selling here but I plan to get my own printer sometime this year. I’ll send you one free when I do.

 

[CountryShooter]

I've been using my 22TD over a year now. Very happy with it. I TIGHTEN the muzzle end cap with the supplied tool. Insert baffle stack. TIGHTEN the front cap. Nothing ever comes loose. Use TBACRAY's suggestion above. Pull the can straight from the barrel when you break it loose from the gun. Never had the cap stay on the gun.

 

[Colorado S14]

I designed this for my 22TD and had my brother 3d print one for me. Works great! I did leave out the middle hole on the 3D print version though.

View attachment 7787544

Willing to share the file? My father-in-law 3D prints. Maybe he can do it for me. Thanks!!

 

[TBACRAY]

Just grab the can by the muzzle end and apply a little downward pressure while turning it off.

 

[Colorado S14]

Just grab the can by the muzzle end and apply a little downward pressure while turning it off.

Sure. Makes sense. But what if I want to over-complicate shit!?

 

[rust4brains]

Just grab the can by the muzzle end and apply a little downward pressure while turning it off.

Soooo, I was thinking my TBAC 22 Takedown came with a couple of little wrenches for getting off the cap & I have been very frustrated in not being able to find them. I also have been cussing myself for leaving the can on my Ruger 22/45 Lite for who know how many rounds over many months. The damn thing just would not come off, just kept unscrewing itself. As I was contemplating putting channel locks or a wrench on it, I saw the above post & didn't think it would work.. but I tried it & eureka!!!! Thank you @TBACRAY for ALWAYS supporting this site and your customers.

 

[CountryShooter]

The little factory tool is for the end caps. It won't slide over the tube, so you couldn't have used it to remove the can from the barrel anyway.

 

[FuhQ]

Just incase anyone sees this in the future, get one of the Spire Gunworks aluminum tools. He makes top-notch stuff. I have a bunch of his wrenches for my different cans. Mask, 22TD, Obsidian 45, KeyMo, and Nomad/Primal.

Take Down 22 Wrench

Thunderbeast Take Down 22 wrench. This tool is used to remove your suppressor end cap or mount for cleaning and it makes switching configurations a breeze! CNC machined from 6061 aluminum and sandblasted for a smooth finish. Proudly made in the USA If you have any questions or want a specific...

www.spiregw.com

 

[Maelstrom]

I designed this for my 22TD and had my brother 3d print one for me. Works great! I did leave out the middle hole on the 3D print version though.

View attachment 7787544

Has anyone ever been able to print these? Even with holding the can and letting the rifle hang I keep getting the rear endcap stuck on my barrel. I got in the habit of putting the small factory tool on the barrel before I screwed the suppressor on but unfortunately I ended up breaking the tool Monday when I went to take the end cap off the barrel after shooting.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Same here. A little bit of blue LocTite goes a long way. The attachment end cap stays the n place when hand tightened/loosened. I use the TBAC disassembly tool to take it apart.
YMMV, happy shooting

 

[FuhQ]

Has anyone ever been able to print these? Even with holding the can and letting the rifle hang I keep getting the rear endcap stuck on my barrel. I got in the habit of putting the small factory tool on the barrel before I screwed the suppressor on but unfortunately I ended up breaking the tool Monday when I went to take the end cap off the barrel after shooting.

Literally look 1 post up... Solid aluminum CNC tool... If they break, you're doing something wrong.

 

[chevy_man]

The “good” pair stays in the Tundra just this purpose...
Plasti Dip as needed.
View attachment 7510860

You heathen!

Pliers are never the tool you need, only the lazy way.


Wrenches are required. Turns out they don't leave marks like your animalistic methods.

 

[K80/6.5]

You heathen!

Pliers are never the tool you need, only the lazy way.


Wrenches are required. Turns out they don't leave marks like your animalistic methods.

At least use Knipex plier wrench.

 

[chevy_man]

At least use Knipex plier wrench.

I'll admit I have a pair of those for using on conduit fittings. They hold surprisingly well.

 

[K80/6.5]

I'll admit I have a pair of those for using on conduit fittings. They hold surprisingly well.

I love all things knipex. I’m hard on things and they hold up pretty well only broke a couple pairs at work but you send them in and they send you a new pair.