I just recently purchased a GA precision tempest action. By far is this the smoothest action I have ever cycled. I installed a timney Calvin elite 2 stage trigger via the number 30 hanger. This is when the cycle of the bolt became hard. When going into lock, moving bolt handle down the effort is much higher. Even more than most bolt actions I have functioned. Has anyone ever worked with this action and can you advise me on what I should be looking to adjust? Thanks
- Thread starter Gunmutt
- Start date
I've been using a Timney 2-stage for nearly the entirety of my Tempest build. Using the 30 hanger and through nearly 300rds i've not had many issues. The sear engagement and subsequently the bolt came is stiffer but it just has to be run harder. I'll intend to try the Bix & Andy soon. I have not heard that GAP wasn't recommending the 2-stage Timneys though.
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Was your action cerakoated? I have had a nightmare of a time getting a trigger my Tempest likes to run without light primer strikes. Now that I have about 600 rounds through it and a lot more dry fires, I realized one thing that was a factor was the cerakoate job. It was cerakoated with the firing pin protrusion portion sticking out, and it added enough material to cause some friction while the pin was dropping. Now there is an area worn smooth and shiny from any cerakoate on the firing pin protrusion, and it finally clicked it was adding friction. I have been able to swap my .030 hanger to a .020 hanger on my Jewell and run it reliably now that I discovered this, and have not had any light primer strikes yet. I initially wanted to run a Timney CE (single stage) and couldn't get it to run on any of the hangers GAP told me to run without light primer strikes. GAP told me it should be able to run on the .020 or .030 and neither worked. Timney sent me a heavier spring to help, but I had already swapped the Jewell from my hunting rifle and installed in the Tempest, and in turn used the CE on my hunting rifle (Defiance action) so haven't installed the spring yet. After this season, or during a lull I plan to try to run the CE again on my Tempest and see if I can get it to run reliably. I would rather have that on my competition rifle due to the abuse it takes, and put my Trigger Tech on my hunting rifle. Lastly, I also ordered another batch of trigger hangers from GAP and they seem to be much better quality than my original ones. They seem to be machined better and fit better. I had a very early action, and it came with no instructions on hangers. Now they come with some info. There is a lot of info on the old hide floating around regarding light primer strikes. Search for light primer strikes and you should be able to find it.
I could definitely be wrong, but I'm fairly positive I saw one of the GAP guys say they no longer suggest running the Timney 2 stage with the tempest.
Anyone running the tempest in an XLT carbon chassis? I got mine in the other day and the action will not fit with the extended scope base. Has anyone ever changed out the scope base? If so what 20 MOA bases fit? GA offered to mill off my scope base but I would rather not send off my action just to have that work done. FFL shipping is a pain and not cheap
I just chopped off a few rows on the rail with a cut off wheel then shaped it up with a file to fit my carbon. Worked and looked fine. If it's not a tempest inlet you will also need a pocket milled just in front of the rear action screw to fit the trigger hanger.
Bix n Andy wont work with any of the hangers - tried it.
That's why they made their own I thought.
You mean BnA make a tempest hanger? I have seen their hangers for other actions (european actions that use hangers) , never seen one for the Tempest - guessing you would have to modify existing. I bought my BnA marksman for a TL3, but while i was waiting for my build i thought i would try on the tempest with the different hangers so wasnt vested in making it work,more i was impatient to try the trigger and the hanger system is nice to try different triggers without hammering the trigger pins and out of a R700 type action, alas didnt work for me.
Someone on here that is either with BnA or a retailer told me they made a hanger specifically for the Tempest.
Timney doesn't work well with stiller actions either. Lots of light strikes, even after they sent me a different sear to use.
I have to ask.
I keep reading and reading all kinds of trigger issues with the tempest in regards to the hanger. What does this system bring to the table that's positive? I'd contemplated one of these actions due to the 60 degree throw, but I dont want to buy an action that needs alot of effort to get a trigger to work.
I keep reading and reading all kinds of trigger issues with the tempest in regards to the hanger. What does this system bring to the table that's positive? I'd contemplated one of these actions due to the 60 degree throw, but I dont want to buy an action that needs alot of effort to get a trigger to work.
There is a list on the scout hide with all the compatible triggers and which hangers work with them. Problem is triggers not listed. Like the Timney. Though i've been using the 30 hanger for nearly 500rds and with the Timney 2-stage and haven't had an issue.
I love the action and would never go back especially after running it in K&M this past weekend.
What trigger are you thinking of going with Mill?
I currently have a Mausingfield with Timney Calvin ellite single stage trigger. Love that trigger, or possibly may consider a triggertech. I'm looking to build a second rifle and can't decide if I want to use a Tikka action that I already own or go all out again and get a Tempest or another Mausingfield in long action. The Mausingfield has been flawless for 3k rounds so far, but I like variety. I'm wanting a 7 or 6.5 SAUM
I, personally, wouldn't run a SAUM in a Tempest unless they have come out with a long action that I haven't seen. If they have, it would be a sweet piece.
I have about 500 rounds through mine. Had some teething issues but I think the heart of the matter is the lighter firing pin spring combined with the 60° throw. Something has to give to get the energy you need to light the primer. You can have an action that cycles lightning fast and may be limited to specific primers or you can have one that will light off any primer you like but it's gonna require a slightly heavier spring, which equals more closing effort. Change the trigger (cocking distance) and you get to start over with figuring out that balance. I had a heavier spring installed and haven't looked back. When I did, we had to totally readjust both of my triggers. No free lunch . And before the AI nutsack swingers roll in and say their shit cycles itself, I have an AI six lug and I had to drop my load .5gr so I didn't have to hammer the bolt open. No free lunch with a 60° throw.
I have six 60° actions at this point. The Tempest is pretty damn nice. Maybe not a Barnard, but its a different beast for a different job. Everyone who has shot it comes away smiling.
I have about 500 rounds through mine. Had some teething issues but I think the heart of the matter is the lighter firing pin spring combined with the 60° throw. Something has to give to get the energy you need to light the primer. You can have an action that cycles lightning fast and may be limited to specific primers or you can have one that will light off any primer you like but it's gonna require a slightly heavier spring, which equals more closing effort. Change the trigger (cocking distance) and you get to start over with figuring out that balance. I had a heavier spring installed and haven't looked back. When I did, we had to totally readjust both of my triggers. No free lunch . And before the AI nutsack swingers roll in and say their shit cycles itself, I have an AI six lug and I had to drop my load .5gr so I didn't have to hammer the bolt open. No free lunch with a 60° throw.
I have six 60° actions at this point. The Tempest is pretty damn nice. Maybe not a Barnard, but its a different beast for a different job. Everyone who has shot it comes away smiling.
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So the rifle is back from my Smith and shoots lifts out. The only issue I am having now is failure to hit the primers hard enough. Out of 50 rounds 6 fail to ignite. How does one disassemble the bolt to check the firing pin? It has to come apart some way
Firing pin assembly must be in the rifle to check the cocking distance. Cock the action without a round in it and measure the protrusion of the firing pin out the back of the cocking piece. If he coated it, the pin is probably screwed too far forward.
To remove the FP assembly remove the bolt, grab the cocking piece and twist it to the right.
To remove the FP assembly remove the bolt, grab the cocking piece and twist it to the right.
I believe youre right at the bottom end. Top is around .2 if i recall. Which hangar are you using?
I am using a 30.
Hows your rifle been performing?
Im not a fan of the CE 2 stage. I ended up with jewels and .010 hangars on both of the tempests I built.
I prefer 2-stage triggers as well. I tried a huber two stage. It was ordered to pull at 2.5 lbs total. When installed on the tempest, it pulled at a shade under 5 lbs. That was a common theme with the triggers I tried, except for the jewell, which didnt seem to notice the extra pin spring load at all. They’ll will be my go-to for now. 5rwill posted about the bix & andy triggers for the tempest here somewhere. I played with them at SHOT, on various Bat actions. They seemed nice.
Now another I noticed along with the light primer strikes is a good bit of my fired rounds had cratered primers. These were not hot loads by any means but it did seem odd to have both light primers strikes and craters. Just FYI I am using sellier and bollot small rifle primers. The loads did have extremely low spreads. Less than 10 FPS
I have over 1k rds down down my GAP /Tempest 6 Creedmoor build and countless dry cycles w/Jewell trigger running CCI primers and nothing has failed me in 7 matches, wouldn't give it up for nothing!
my next step would be to remove the FP assembly, take the spring off (better be ready for this) take the two set screws out and make sure your pin isn't a full turn forward. 10 minutes, an Allen key and some blue loctite and you could be GTG. If you're not comfortable with that, I would send George an email and see if they would take on checking it.
Have you pulled the FP assembly out? if so, inspect the stop (beveled part) for any rubs or burrs.
Have you pulled the FP assembly out? if so, inspect the stop (beveled part) for any rubs or burrs.
Anyone get a Trigger Tech to run with any of the GA trigger hangers in their Tempest? I have tried a TT regular, pro, and now Diamond with no luck. These are by far my favorite triggers. The only trigger I can run is a Jewell, which I don't like in a Match rifle. Would love any update from the increased Tempests in the field! When I try the .00, .010, .020, and .030 hangers with any TT, the firing pin releases when I close the bolt.
Curious if this question was ever resolved? I have a tempest action and just purchased a Diamond Trigger.
Running a diamond and never had a single issue with the 20 hanger. That's strange man i'd have to let GAP check it out, i had issues with the BnA if i slapped the handle down the firing pin would fall but i couldn't slam fire it for the life of me.
Podigga,
On the "Tempest Builds...Lets See em" thread, pages 6-7 have the info I used to resolve my trigger issues. I pasted the revenant info below. Let me know if you have any specific questions I can help with, I've got her dicked now.
"Got off the phone with GAP. After working with several of their guys over the last week (ALL very helpful), they passed it to George. Sounds like I have an early TT Diamond with a .028 sear drop, which they did to mirror the B&A sear drop on early diamond models for increased lock time. The COA's are use the B&A trigger hangar which is basically a .020 hangar with a .028 drop to get the sear to the right height, or to call TT and swap for a current model with the standard Rem 700 sear height. Just wanted to pass along for anyone else trying to run a TT Diamond and having issues. Take it with a grain of salt...have not spoken to TT about any of this. I went with the B&A hangar route since I have multiple triggers in this same boat."
"Update to my post above, the B&A trigger hangar was perfect for the TT Diamond version that I had (the one with .028 lower sear). Finally, my Tempest is running the way I want it to."
On the "Tempest Builds...Lets See em" thread, pages 6-7 have the info I used to resolve my trigger issues. I pasted the revenant info below. Let me know if you have any specific questions I can help with, I've got her dicked now.
"Got off the phone with GAP. After working with several of their guys over the last week (ALL very helpful), they passed it to George. Sounds like I have an early TT Diamond with a .028 sear drop, which they did to mirror the B&A sear drop on early diamond models for increased lock time. The COA's are use the B&A trigger hangar which is basically a .020 hangar with a .028 drop to get the sear to the right height, or to call TT and swap for a current model with the standard Rem 700 sear height. Just wanted to pass along for anyone else trying to run a TT Diamond and having issues. Take it with a grain of salt...have not spoken to TT about any of this. I went with the B&A hangar route since I have multiple triggers in this same boat."
"Update to my post above, the B&A trigger hangar was perfect for the TT Diamond version that I had (the one with .028 lower sear). Finally, my Tempest is running the way I want it to."
Are you running a hanger for your Jewell if so which one
