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Testing Ammo

4sfed

4sfed
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 4, 2017
69
14
I'm new to precision .22 rimfire ... ordered a Vudoo V-22 that's expected in a couple weeks. What do you do to condition the barrel when switching brands of ammo? Fire "x" number of rounds, clean the barrel and fire "x" number of rounds ...? I'm anxious to see what this rifle can do.
 
I'm about the furthest thing from an expert but here's what I did with my V22: 2 x boresnake, 10 fouling rounds, 4 x 5 shot groups. I think consistency is probably more important than the actual routine as long as you are reasonable. I haven't tested any truely top notch ammo but i've had pretty good results with Wolf MT, Eley Target (yellow box), and SK standard. CCI standard was good enough, not as good as the above ammo's. I'm in california so finding the really good stuff has been challenging. Have fun, my V22 is rediculously nice in every aspect-Norcal911
 
From my experience there is no need to clean between lube changes (different brands), here is what I do:

-New rifle: clean the bore with a quality solvent (I like Kroil, TM, or Butches), then dry the bore & chamber very good!
*when cleaning use a bore guide, a quality rod like a Dewey coated rod or similar, and lately I have been using the VFG felts for rimfire and really like them: http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=CLCRVF

-start with ammo #1 and it can take 15-20 (sometimes more) to season a freshly cleaned barrel, but on a good quality properly chambered barrel normally 15 or so it will settle down, shoot that until you are satisfied that you know how it shoots

-change to ammo #2 and your first 3-7 rounds will more times than not be super accurate, don't get excited this is not what to expect, it is just an anomaly I see in very good shooting rifles when changing lubes. The next 5- 10 rounds will start to scatter a bit but after 10-15 rounds with the new ammo it will be settled down and shooting consistent.

-continue this cycle with all your ammo and you will see the trends that your rifle has, but I bet it will be very similar to what I just outlined above, personally I don't waste time cleaning or dry patching b/c you will have to shoot at least the same or more rounds to season if you clean, a dry patch may save you 5 or so rounds but that is not a guarantee, I use the fouling rounds to confirm my position and work on the basic mechanics of building a position.

One other thing to note some rimfire barrels (more specifically chambers) may need to brake in a bit depending on how clean the chambering job was done. This can take much longer than with a CF as to be expected with less pressure and softer bullets, so if your accuracy isn't what you expect for the first 50-100 rounds be patient and give it a few hundred more paying attention to accuracy trends. There is no need to do any sort of 1 shot and clean method for "brake in". However if your accuracy isn't as expected and your approaching 100 rounds or so give the bore a good cleaning, b/c if the throat is a little rough it at be stripping some lead and accumulating in the bore.

Lastly do not forget about what a huge effect atmospherics has on rimfire, a 1-2 mph full value wind at 50 yards is worth around 0.100" in POI shift (about 1/2 of bullet diameter). Temperature is also a big consideration, I see accuracy start to degrade around 45f-50f, from 30f-45f it can significantly be affected, and in the 20's and below it can be total crap.

These are just my thoughts on the subject, I am no expert and I don't claim this it the only method.
 
Thanks for all the replies and the link to the barrel break-in thread. I don't think break-in will be an issue with the Kreiger barrel, but having an idea of the transition period helps a lot.

Are you doing your evaluation at 50 yds or greater?
 
I'm just testing at 50 right now and only going with 4 x 5 shot groups in the intetest of time. It lets me divide up the ammo into 2 groups......save for dad or bulk-let the kids shoot it. After that's all complete and i get some truely premium ammo, i'll increase the range, start getting drop info, and potentially start playing with torque's on action screws. I'm also working on an 85 yard bullet trap for my winter range which will help a little-Norcal911
 
From my experience there is no need to clean between lube changes (different brands), here is what I do:

-New rifle: clean the bore with a quality solvent (I like Kroil, TM, or Butches), then dry the bore & chamber very good!
*when cleaning use a bore guide, a quality rod like a Dewey coated rod or similar, and lately I have been using the VFG felts for rimfire and really like them: http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=CLCRVF

-start with ammo #1 and it can take 15-20 (sometimes more) to season a freshly cleaned barrel, but on a good quality properly chambered barrel normally 15 or so it will settle down, shoot that until you are satisfied that you know how it shoots

-change to ammo #2 and your first 3-7 rounds will more times than not be super accurate, don't get excited this is not what to expect, it is just an anomaly I see in very good shooting rifles when changing lubes. The next 5- 10 rounds will start to scatter a bit but after 10-15 rounds with the new ammo it will be settled down and shooting consistent.

-continue this cycle with all your ammo and you will see the trends that your rifle has, but I bet it will be very similar to what I just outlined above, personally I don't waste time cleaning or dry patching b/c you will have to shoot at least the same or more rounds to season if you clean, a dry patch may save you 5 or so rounds but that is not a guarantee, I use the fouling rounds to confirm my position and work on the basic mechanics of building a position.

One other thing to note some rimfire barrels (more specifically chambers) may need to brake in a bit depending on how clean the chambering job was done. This can take much longer than with a CF as to be expected with less pressure and softer bullets, so if your accuracy isn't what you expect for the first 50-100 rounds be patient and give it a few hundred more paying attention to accuracy trends. There is no need to do any sort of 1 shot and clean method for "brake in". However if your accuracy isn't as expected and your approaching 100 rounds or so give the bore a good cleaning, b/c if the throat is a little rough it at be stripping some lead and accumulating in the bore.

Lastly do not forget about what a huge effect atmospherics has on rimfire, a 1-2 mph full value wind at 50 yards is worth around 0.100" in POI shift (about 1/2 of bullet diameter). Temperature is also a big consideration, I see accuracy start to degrade around 45f-50f, from 30f-45f it can significantly be affected, and in the 20's and below it can be total crap.

These are just my thoughts on the subject, I am no expert and I don't claim this it the only method.
Is it necessary to use the bore guide & Dewey rod with a cheaper gun? Say a savage mk11, or would this be for more expensive guns like the Vudoo? I had planned on just using a bore snake but don't wanna ruin any accuracy.
 
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