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Gunsmithing The most stubborn scope ring screw

MoAli31

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 3, 2014
52
1
Detroit
Hi fellow members, I recently noticed a slight cant in my scope reticle after doing a couple modifications to my gun and I definitely know that the scope itself is not level with my gun. So after getting most of the scope ring screws off so I could adjust the scope, one screw would not budge. The type of screw is a torx style key and after attempting to lubricate, heat, and using one of the strongest torx key wrench I had, nothing would make it move. Hell, I even tried so hard that I broke 3 different torx wrenches which all snapped in half. I also tried to use a drill bit to take it out but since the screw is so narrow, it’s hard to drill it out without bending the bit. If anyone has had a similar problem or knows how to deal with this stuff, please I need all the advice y’all can give.

Thanks

Mike
 
I also tried to use a drill bit to take it out but since the screw is so narrow, it’s hard to drill it out without bending the bit. If anyone has had a similar problem or knows how to deal with this stuff, please I need all the advice y’all can give.

Thanks

Mike

Drilling from the bottom? You could use a very small carbide burr to get a hole started in the base of the screw, but you're never going to get it perfectly centered, and drilled out without effing up the female threads in the ring.
Surprised an overnight soak with Kroil and heat wouldn't do it, and that the wrenches are snapping (?!)

Perhaps CAREFULLY running a very thin cutoff wheel on a Dremel into the gap between the top and bottom halves of the rings to sever the screw (assuming you have enough gap).
 
Had a guy bring me a scope once to get loose that the screws were put on with a lug wrench! The screws were not stuck radially, just too tight. I had to put the rings in a vice to relieve pressure from the screw by clamping in just the outside edge. Screws came right out. The scope tube was probably warped from over-torque, so what little I added to relieve screws didn't matter.
 
I would drill the head off. Choose a bit the next size larger than the shank of the screw.
The good thing is the Torx recess will help you center your drill bit. Once you get down far enough the head will pop right off.
This will allow you to remove the top ring cap. You will be left with the remaining shank exposed.
Apply liberal heat, some good penetrating oil and a pair of small Vise-grips and you should be able to extract the little bastard.
 
​​Suggest using a real driver and a quality, hardened tip, instead of a skinny key...
You'll be able to get a lot more torque on it with a driver handle, figure out a way to provide support for the assembly so you can put some ass behind it.

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