• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

This may be a question for quickload.....

AtownBcat

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 19, 2009
127
1
51
Aledo, Texas
So I hope this is in the right forum...

This question has been on my mind for a while and I do not believe I have seen it discussed as I will attempt to ask it here...

First a little background. I shoot a 300WM.
Kreiger 26 inch 1 in 10 twist barrel.
It will shoot 178 and 208 grain AMax's equally well.
I was shooting the 208's with 77.7 grains of Retumbo, CCI Mag primers, RWS Brass. It was a very accurate load but about every couple of shots, I was having a little trouble with heavy bolt lift. I figured no matter how great it shot, this was not going to work. So I started to lower the powder charge 77.5-77.3-77.1 still having trouble(new factory ammo no problem) I could be having a problem with my reloads but i just think the load is still a little hot.

So for the question:

How do you decide where the line is between speed(shooting the 178's) and BC is(the 208's) I mean how slow do I have to go with the 208's before the speed of switching to the 178's is more important(accurate) then the higher BC of the 208's?
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

Thanks for the link...

And whats the deal with no quickload?(really didnt know about this)
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

When's the last time you bumped the shoulder back and sized around the belt?

Bolt lift can be heavy even on a really light load if the brass is being jammed into the chamber.
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

Im using a forester press(co-ax) and a redding body die after every firing. I physicially cannot get the die any lower. The press would not go through the full stroke. I could be missing something....
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

A Larry Willis Die may become your best friend with a belted magnum.
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

OK, so I have a range update.

I Had already loaded some rounds 2g lighter than the 77.7 that I started with. (not the three that was recomended). I also found some virgin winchester brass.
I loaded the winchester brass with my starting load of 77.7 grains.

The RWS brass with 75.7 grains stuck just like the 77.7 did. But the virgin winchester brass had no pressure signs(the primers are a little on the flat side, but no ejector mark and no heavy bolt) and ejected perfectly. So it can only be either there is that much difference in the two brands of brass or the fact that the RWS (third firing) is not being sized all the way to the belt is causing the problems.
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

RWS brass is thick, Win brass is notoriously thin.

What's the fired case capacity of each? (weigh a fired case, fill with water, weigh again, subtract the difference)

For Fed. vs. Hornady brass in a friend's 3hun it was 2.7gr off the node.
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AtownBcat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Im using a forester press(co-ax) and a redding body die after every firing. I physicially cannot get the die any lower. The press would not go through the full stroke. I could be missing something.... </div></div>
Try raising the die up until you are able to get a full stroke. Being able to get a full stroke with a Forster press makes all the difference in the world when it comes to ease of sizing. One more note, IMPERIAL SIZING DIE WAX.
 
Re: This may be a question for quickload.....

What I meant was that ifit any further it would no longer be able to make the full stroke. It is currently able to.