Many questions come across the board on picking a scope for a rimfire. What magnification? What reticle? What objective? What do I need in a scope to do "X"? Obviously a budget to purchase an optic comes into play, but hopefully the below will help to answer some of these questions to make a suitable purchase.
Probably the most important factor that everything else trickles into is what is your intended use for the rifle and optic? A dedicated hunter? A dedicated target setup? A "trainer" to help defray the cost of centerfire setups? Perhaps a hybrid of all? Disussions on which makes and models go on and on - there are numerous post about it that one can view. However hopefully the below can be applied to ALL choices that you have available, and be somewhat of a guide so you can make a checklist of things that each optic that you are looking has got, hasn't got, what you can live with, or what you can't live without - to help make a satisfying and applicable choice.
Once upon a time, the standard was a "lower end" fixed 4x or 3-9x Bushnell, Tasco or Simmons with a 32mm or less objective sitting on Grandpa's .22 squirrel rifle. That was just about all that was available for rimfires, and for that matter centerfires also. But how the times have changed, and the also the thinking for putting optics on rimfires.
As we as shooters ever expanded the way we use our rimfires from plinking cans a few yards away to full blown presicion matches, we now have specific uses - even incorporating different rifles for each use. Specific uses calls for specific options to help with the overall outcome for how you are using the rifle / optic combo, and now optic manufacturers offer many options on a variety of scopes to fit the specific need. You may rank the list of what is more important to you depending on your needs and budget but as a foundation, your concerns on your new optic choice should go something like this:
At the top of the list of scope requirements should be <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Clarity</span></span>. From personal experience, I can attest that having a scope that is bright, clear, and produces a sharp image is a lot more pleasurable than a dim, cloudy, yellowish sight picture. If one has the oppurtunity to look through different optics as they lay side by side at the store, you know what I'm talking about. Unfortunately, many times one may have to sacrifice some clarity for other options a scope may provide that are going to help with the overall use of the optic, especially if budget is a concern. The point is - <span style="font-style: italic">don't sacrifice <span style="font-weight: bold">TOO</span> much</span>- no matter what helpful options a scope has, they don't matter if you can't see the target!
That leads to another option - <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Adjustable objective</span></span> - Do you need it? If you are or plan on or are already shooting different distances, I would have to say that this gets my vote for the 2nd most important factor. Again, adjusting the objective helps to sharpen the image and reduce parallax. As far as the size of that objective, generally the larger diameter objective, the more light transmission which means a brighter image - that is if the glass and any coating put on that glass are of equal quality. But not to complicate things here, as said larger usually equals brighter. But larger objective also leads to barrel clearance issues, having to go to higher rings, and possible loss of eye alignment / cheek weld with the stock - just another thing to consider. Side focus scopes are a blessing in my opinion, as it is deffinately more convienant to adjust - but not something that would make or break a purchase. Another spoiler in the objective size is the casing / scope tube that is holing the lens. It may be thick enough to give the same clearance issues a larger objective gives. Side focusing scopes are a blessing in my opinion, as it is deffinately more convienant to adjust - but not something that would make or break a purchase, but a plus none the less.
The 3rd thing to look at is the <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Ocular lens or Eyebell</span></span>. Is that focusable to give you the sharpest image of both the reticle and the target? Another plus for a focusable eyebell.
Speaking of the <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Reticle</span></span>, this is probably my 4th most important consideration and is probably tied going hand in hand with <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Magnification</span></span>. Many may put this at the top of the list ahead of Clarity and the ability to focus, but what good is areticle if you can't see that target clearly? Let's tackle the reticle first, if you are using the rifle / optic for, lets' say, benchrest or silhouette shooting, most opt for a target dot or fine crosshair. It' allows a no-nonsense presice uncluttered view of your target, and helps put your attention to one area. On the other hand, a duplex or duplex BDC combo reticle that has thicker crosshairs are usually preferred for hunting optics - you usually "don't loose" the reticle when the action is on when there is game in front of you, and there are ways of using the duplex for ranging. Then there are mildots and other ranging specific reticles, effectively used for estimating target distances at unknown distances. The graduations on the reticle can also be used for holdovers and / or windage effectively to some extent rather than having to turn adjustment knobs or holdover without a designated point of reference. These types of reticles can be applied over many types of situations; long and short range target shooting, hunting, etc. as they usually incorporate crosshairs and different aiming / adjustment points. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Illumination?</span></span> Illumination can be helpfull in low lit settings, such as dawn, dusk, or at night. For nighttime use, some scopes are too illuminated or bright which causes you to loose your "night vision" or washes out the target in the sight picture. If an illuminated reticle is chosen, I like the 8-11 multiple setting type as you the lowest setting is usually dim enough not to loose that "night vision" or have washout in the sight picture. Another coice on lower less settings for illumination is by using batteries that are nearly drained. It's a little more risky as yo don't know if they are going to be drained completely and fail, but it is an option. I wouldn't have an illuminated reticle make or break a purchase, but it is a plus if it has it. On to <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Magnification</span></span> - Variable or Fixed? Variables have more moving parts that can fail (albeit rarely, but does happen) but does offer more flexibility to see your target "up close or far away". Depending on what your application is, a higher range of magnification (variable or fixed) can be more beneficial than lower, as in the case of a dedicated target rifle. In the case of a hunting rifle, a lower range (variable or fixed) is usually best so one doesn't loose the target as in the case of a higher magnified optic. I generally like a variable 3-12x, 4-16x for hunting for those reasons, and a 6-18x, 6-24x, 8-32x for target not only to see the target better, but to spot hits. Benchrest shooters tend to use higher fixed magnification as they know the distance to their target, and like to have that "up close" look at the target and hits. Again, magnification should be applied to what your purpose(s) will encompass and what will be advantagous or a detriment to your goals. Keep in mind that with many lower priced scopes, you may not get the full magnification out of it before it starts going gray, or the image is distorted in another manner. Example a "lower end" scope may stat 24x, but in reality you may only be able to see clearly up to 20 or 22x, then all sorts of distortion and clarity problems start to wher you can't reach that true 24x. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Field of View </span></span> - this may be important to you depending on your application - For example, "FOV of 9ft at 100 yards on 12x" means that at 12x you will see 9 ft of "ground". FOV is especially helpful on hunting set ups so as not to lose the game in the optic, and having to search around for it. It would be alot quicker to spot game in a FOV covering 16 feet of "ground" than 9 feet - 5 feet of error in possibly not seeing the target. Again this is most applicable to hunting, as shooting paper off a bench allows you more time to "find" the bullseye.
When talking reticles, magnification, and focusing, we can't not mention <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">FFP (first focal plane)</span></span> and <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">SFP (second focal plane)</span></span>. A reticle located in the first focal plane appears to change size with adjustments in magnification, but in fact it remains in the exact same ratio to the target across the scope’s entire magnification range. The first focal plane location is especially appropriate for use with rangefinding reticles, since the reticle’s markings remain consistent relative to target size at all magnification settings. In a second focal plane optic, the reticle is installed towards the rear of the erector, past the lenses that help control the magnification of the image. This means that the scopes’ reticle will appear to stay the same size relative to the shooter throughout its magnification range. Since the reticle isn’t changing size relative to the target, the reticle subtensions are only good for range estimation and trajectory compensation at one spot along the magnification range, typically on the highest power. There are many articles and posts that describe both in detail, but just wanted to mention it, as more "budget minded" optics are beginning to filter in the FFP, and is definately a plus if rangefinding is in your requirements.
So we covered Clarity, Adjustable objectives and size, Reticles and magnification, FFP and SFP.
To open another can of worms, lets talk about <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Adjustment knobs, Target Turrets,</span></span> and amount of adjustment or <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Click Value".</span></span>
A seasoned shooter can generally get by without adjustment knobs / turrets as they have experienced enough to hold over and adjust from their set zero, and use the reticle they have to the fullest potential. The thought of the target turret is more of a "want" than a "need". Once again, depending on your application - such as having to semi-quickly and precisely adjust for multiple distances and having to precisely compensate for windage during a target competiton windage - such as in benchrest shooting - target turrets come in very handy. On a rimfire, the ability to adjust the reticle in the same manner for different distances is nice to have. On the flip side, on a dedicated hunting rifle, high turrets (even with the covers on is so equipped), become a bit of a liability as they get bumped around and caught on things, leading to possible loss of zero or damage. As you can see, depending on your setup, what you are using it for, and personal preference will dictate target turrets. As of late, they have become more of a "need" than a "want" for me as they allow me to be more flexible to dial in for different distances, and with proper notes, gives me the ability to switch to different ammos more easily. I do feel that turrets are a plus in most situations, especially on an optic that has a reputation for a good return to zero. In other words, if you are zeroed for 50 yards, then dial the turret to different ranges, you still want the scope to to hit dead on at 50 yards again, time after time. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Click Value"</span></span> - whether you choose fraction of an inch, MOA, or MIL adjustments (there's more than enough information to search on the advantages / usages of each, and way to indepth to discuss here), the important thing again is your rifle / optic usage and goals to determine what will work for you. To save argument and as it's typically most widely used optics on rimfires, let's use fraction of an inch for example. A benchrest shooter will generally use 1/8" adjustment as it is a small graduation to move the point of impact, which can be the difference between winning and losing a match. Those guys and equipment are that exact, and 1/8" adjustments are practically a "need" for them. Don't forget that 1/8" is at 100 yards, and the benchrest boys shoot at 50 - making it 1/16th" adjustment! On the other hand, 1/8" adjustment on someone that is changing from 100 to 200 yards may not be so critical and 1/4" perhaps even 1/2" will do fine. Certainly any small game hunting doesn't require an 1/8" degree of precision, center mass or "minute of squirrel head" will do just fine. Also, going from 25 to 200+ yards and back requires a HUGE amount of turning that turret and time, 1/4" and 1/2" helps out with that aspect. Don't get me wrong, I like 1/8" adjustments, but it becomes more of a "want" than a "need" for my style of shooting, it may be reversed for you, again, depending on your situation.
Back on the subject of turrets, there are variations ranging from unlocking to locking turrets using rings, pull up - turn - push down to lock, and other variations. Along with that are different gripping surfaces, heights, the way the numbers / marks are printed or engraved, etc. Which is the the best? Again I must refer back to personal preference, usage, and what are available on the scope that's in your budget. I would further put on the table that turret design or their presense at all should not be substituted for sacrificing too much in the way of clarity, ability to properly focus the scope, reticle or magnification. Properly applied, these can be used to compensate properly without the use of turrets. So even though they are a plus, should not be an option that makes or breaks a purchase.
Another factor to be considered may be <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Length and Weight</span></span> (as mentioned earlier). Certain diciplines of competition have rules governing it, and many longer, wider "bulkier" scopes may actually hinder you in the hunting woods. Again this is of personal preference and usage of the rifle / optic setup. What <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Tube (body) size</span></span>? 1", 30mm, other? The tube size offers afew advantages. The 1" has been in service forever, and it is relatively easy to find mounting rings. The 30 mm and larger scopes offer better light transmission (in concert with the objective size) and more tube to have additional space for additional adjustment amounts. As they are bigger bodied, they are heavier. If weight is an issue, this may be a factor along with the metal composition of the tube, usually aluminum, but some steel and other "tougher" metals.
One thing not to forget about - <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">The Warranty</span></span>. Whether the scope is $100.00 or $1,000.00, it's good to know that a company backs their product. But make sure to read the warranty, as some are 90 days, 1 year, lifetime (to the original owner), and lifetime transferrable - adds value for any future sale of the optic or rifle / optic combo. Also look for the conditions of the warranty. Some lower cost brands make YOU pay for the sipping TO the company AND BACK and you have to pay insurance on the value of the optic! This warranty work may not cover labor and cover parts, sometimes it's one or another, sometimes both are covered. Sometimes they will find the user at fault, and not replace or fix the scope. Now you are out shipping costs back and forth, and still with a broken scope. Anyway at the end of the day, it really stinks when you think the warranty is rock solid, but have to pay a few dollars less to get your reworked used scope back than just going out and getting another.
There are also other <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Goodies / Accessories"</span></span> that are included with the purchase of a scope - rings, flip up lens covers, sunshades, etc. Though these are nice extras, they shouldn't "distract" you from what you are purchasing - the scope itself. There's a good chance that the rings included are either too high or too low and you'll have to buy another set anyhow, and the lens caps are usually of marginal quality. I do like a sunshade, but generally is another "want" and not neccessarily a "need". All these "goodies" can be added later, and up front one should concentrate more on the quality of the optic itself.
So at the end of this long post, I would stress that when looking for a scope for a rimfire (or for that matter a centerfire) that the above suggestions be looked at so that you know that you are comparing apples to apples. When you have a group of scopes that you are interested in but still have yet to choose "the one", make a checklist of those subjects mentioned to include the "needs and wants" and the "plus and minus" of each, and in each of the price catagories within or near your budget. All that information and price is available either at the sporting goods store, on the internet store (many to choose from), or the manufactures sight. If shopping smartly, you may be able to afford a better optic than you think. Compare shipping costs and tax also, along with any rebates, specials, closeouts, or sales. Like a car, last year's model may be on clearance.
You'll be pleasantly surprised how well the checklist works at weeding out the "not needed" and highlights the "must have" for your application - It basically picks the optic for you. An optic that makes the shooting experience more enjoyable for your style of shooting and stays within or around your budget is a beautiful thing.
From there you can search around on various sites (Natchez, Midway, Optics planet, SWFA etc.) until you can find something that interests you for your purpose and falls within your budget.
Then ask about a 2 or 3 that you have narrowed down to, or use a search EASIER TO FIND STUFF - sniper's hide google search to find the multitude of posts / reviews / comparisons that already probably exist for the ones your deciding on. If there is a certain question about a model that isn't already covered, that's the time to ask about it. You'll at least have some data on a scope that fits your needs and hopefully will base your purchase on facts and not opinions.
Otherwise just a generic question of "which scope should I get" is like asking "what pickup".....the Chevy guys will say Silverado, the Ford guys F150, Dodge guys Ram - mostly based on personal brand loyalty and perhaps not truly based on facts.
Probably the most important factor that everything else trickles into is what is your intended use for the rifle and optic? A dedicated hunter? A dedicated target setup? A "trainer" to help defray the cost of centerfire setups? Perhaps a hybrid of all? Disussions on which makes and models go on and on - there are numerous post about it that one can view. However hopefully the below can be applied to ALL choices that you have available, and be somewhat of a guide so you can make a checklist of things that each optic that you are looking has got, hasn't got, what you can live with, or what you can't live without - to help make a satisfying and applicable choice.
Once upon a time, the standard was a "lower end" fixed 4x or 3-9x Bushnell, Tasco or Simmons with a 32mm or less objective sitting on Grandpa's .22 squirrel rifle. That was just about all that was available for rimfires, and for that matter centerfires also. But how the times have changed, and the also the thinking for putting optics on rimfires.
As we as shooters ever expanded the way we use our rimfires from plinking cans a few yards away to full blown presicion matches, we now have specific uses - even incorporating different rifles for each use. Specific uses calls for specific options to help with the overall outcome for how you are using the rifle / optic combo, and now optic manufacturers offer many options on a variety of scopes to fit the specific need. You may rank the list of what is more important to you depending on your needs and budget but as a foundation, your concerns on your new optic choice should go something like this:
At the top of the list of scope requirements should be <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Clarity</span></span>. From personal experience, I can attest that having a scope that is bright, clear, and produces a sharp image is a lot more pleasurable than a dim, cloudy, yellowish sight picture. If one has the oppurtunity to look through different optics as they lay side by side at the store, you know what I'm talking about. Unfortunately, many times one may have to sacrifice some clarity for other options a scope may provide that are going to help with the overall use of the optic, especially if budget is a concern. The point is - <span style="font-style: italic">don't sacrifice <span style="font-weight: bold">TOO</span> much</span>- no matter what helpful options a scope has, they don't matter if you can't see the target!
That leads to another option - <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Adjustable objective</span></span> - Do you need it? If you are or plan on or are already shooting different distances, I would have to say that this gets my vote for the 2nd most important factor. Again, adjusting the objective helps to sharpen the image and reduce parallax. As far as the size of that objective, generally the larger diameter objective, the more light transmission which means a brighter image - that is if the glass and any coating put on that glass are of equal quality. But not to complicate things here, as said larger usually equals brighter. But larger objective also leads to barrel clearance issues, having to go to higher rings, and possible loss of eye alignment / cheek weld with the stock - just another thing to consider. Side focus scopes are a blessing in my opinion, as it is deffinately more convienant to adjust - but not something that would make or break a purchase. Another spoiler in the objective size is the casing / scope tube that is holing the lens. It may be thick enough to give the same clearance issues a larger objective gives. Side focusing scopes are a blessing in my opinion, as it is deffinately more convienant to adjust - but not something that would make or break a purchase, but a plus none the less.
The 3rd thing to look at is the <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Ocular lens or Eyebell</span></span>. Is that focusable to give you the sharpest image of both the reticle and the target? Another plus for a focusable eyebell.
Speaking of the <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Reticle</span></span>, this is probably my 4th most important consideration and is probably tied going hand in hand with <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Magnification</span></span>. Many may put this at the top of the list ahead of Clarity and the ability to focus, but what good is areticle if you can't see that target clearly? Let's tackle the reticle first, if you are using the rifle / optic for, lets' say, benchrest or silhouette shooting, most opt for a target dot or fine crosshair. It' allows a no-nonsense presice uncluttered view of your target, and helps put your attention to one area. On the other hand, a duplex or duplex BDC combo reticle that has thicker crosshairs are usually preferred for hunting optics - you usually "don't loose" the reticle when the action is on when there is game in front of you, and there are ways of using the duplex for ranging. Then there are mildots and other ranging specific reticles, effectively used for estimating target distances at unknown distances. The graduations on the reticle can also be used for holdovers and / or windage effectively to some extent rather than having to turn adjustment knobs or holdover without a designated point of reference. These types of reticles can be applied over many types of situations; long and short range target shooting, hunting, etc. as they usually incorporate crosshairs and different aiming / adjustment points. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Illumination?</span></span> Illumination can be helpfull in low lit settings, such as dawn, dusk, or at night. For nighttime use, some scopes are too illuminated or bright which causes you to loose your "night vision" or washes out the target in the sight picture. If an illuminated reticle is chosen, I like the 8-11 multiple setting type as you the lowest setting is usually dim enough not to loose that "night vision" or have washout in the sight picture. Another coice on lower less settings for illumination is by using batteries that are nearly drained. It's a little more risky as yo don't know if they are going to be drained completely and fail, but it is an option. I wouldn't have an illuminated reticle make or break a purchase, but it is a plus if it has it. On to <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Magnification</span></span> - Variable or Fixed? Variables have more moving parts that can fail (albeit rarely, but does happen) but does offer more flexibility to see your target "up close or far away". Depending on what your application is, a higher range of magnification (variable or fixed) can be more beneficial than lower, as in the case of a dedicated target rifle. In the case of a hunting rifle, a lower range (variable or fixed) is usually best so one doesn't loose the target as in the case of a higher magnified optic. I generally like a variable 3-12x, 4-16x for hunting for those reasons, and a 6-18x, 6-24x, 8-32x for target not only to see the target better, but to spot hits. Benchrest shooters tend to use higher fixed magnification as they know the distance to their target, and like to have that "up close" look at the target and hits. Again, magnification should be applied to what your purpose(s) will encompass and what will be advantagous or a detriment to your goals. Keep in mind that with many lower priced scopes, you may not get the full magnification out of it before it starts going gray, or the image is distorted in another manner. Example a "lower end" scope may stat 24x, but in reality you may only be able to see clearly up to 20 or 22x, then all sorts of distortion and clarity problems start to wher you can't reach that true 24x. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Field of View </span></span> - this may be important to you depending on your application - For example, "FOV of 9ft at 100 yards on 12x" means that at 12x you will see 9 ft of "ground". FOV is especially helpful on hunting set ups so as not to lose the game in the optic, and having to search around for it. It would be alot quicker to spot game in a FOV covering 16 feet of "ground" than 9 feet - 5 feet of error in possibly not seeing the target. Again this is most applicable to hunting, as shooting paper off a bench allows you more time to "find" the bullseye.
When talking reticles, magnification, and focusing, we can't not mention <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">FFP (first focal plane)</span></span> and <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">SFP (second focal plane)</span></span>. A reticle located in the first focal plane appears to change size with adjustments in magnification, but in fact it remains in the exact same ratio to the target across the scope’s entire magnification range. The first focal plane location is especially appropriate for use with rangefinding reticles, since the reticle’s markings remain consistent relative to target size at all magnification settings. In a second focal plane optic, the reticle is installed towards the rear of the erector, past the lenses that help control the magnification of the image. This means that the scopes’ reticle will appear to stay the same size relative to the shooter throughout its magnification range. Since the reticle isn’t changing size relative to the target, the reticle subtensions are only good for range estimation and trajectory compensation at one spot along the magnification range, typically on the highest power. There are many articles and posts that describe both in detail, but just wanted to mention it, as more "budget minded" optics are beginning to filter in the FFP, and is definately a plus if rangefinding is in your requirements.
So we covered Clarity, Adjustable objectives and size, Reticles and magnification, FFP and SFP.
To open another can of worms, lets talk about <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Adjustment knobs, Target Turrets,</span></span> and amount of adjustment or <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Click Value".</span></span>
A seasoned shooter can generally get by without adjustment knobs / turrets as they have experienced enough to hold over and adjust from their set zero, and use the reticle they have to the fullest potential. The thought of the target turret is more of a "want" than a "need". Once again, depending on your application - such as having to semi-quickly and precisely adjust for multiple distances and having to precisely compensate for windage during a target competiton windage - such as in benchrest shooting - target turrets come in very handy. On a rimfire, the ability to adjust the reticle in the same manner for different distances is nice to have. On the flip side, on a dedicated hunting rifle, high turrets (even with the covers on is so equipped), become a bit of a liability as they get bumped around and caught on things, leading to possible loss of zero or damage. As you can see, depending on your setup, what you are using it for, and personal preference will dictate target turrets. As of late, they have become more of a "need" than a "want" for me as they allow me to be more flexible to dial in for different distances, and with proper notes, gives me the ability to switch to different ammos more easily. I do feel that turrets are a plus in most situations, especially on an optic that has a reputation for a good return to zero. In other words, if you are zeroed for 50 yards, then dial the turret to different ranges, you still want the scope to to hit dead on at 50 yards again, time after time. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Click Value"</span></span> - whether you choose fraction of an inch, MOA, or MIL adjustments (there's more than enough information to search on the advantages / usages of each, and way to indepth to discuss here), the important thing again is your rifle / optic usage and goals to determine what will work for you. To save argument and as it's typically most widely used optics on rimfires, let's use fraction of an inch for example. A benchrest shooter will generally use 1/8" adjustment as it is a small graduation to move the point of impact, which can be the difference between winning and losing a match. Those guys and equipment are that exact, and 1/8" adjustments are practically a "need" for them. Don't forget that 1/8" is at 100 yards, and the benchrest boys shoot at 50 - making it 1/16th" adjustment! On the other hand, 1/8" adjustment on someone that is changing from 100 to 200 yards may not be so critical and 1/4" perhaps even 1/2" will do fine. Certainly any small game hunting doesn't require an 1/8" degree of precision, center mass or "minute of squirrel head" will do just fine. Also, going from 25 to 200+ yards and back requires a HUGE amount of turning that turret and time, 1/4" and 1/2" helps out with that aspect. Don't get me wrong, I like 1/8" adjustments, but it becomes more of a "want" than a "need" for my style of shooting, it may be reversed for you, again, depending on your situation.
Back on the subject of turrets, there are variations ranging from unlocking to locking turrets using rings, pull up - turn - push down to lock, and other variations. Along with that are different gripping surfaces, heights, the way the numbers / marks are printed or engraved, etc. Which is the the best? Again I must refer back to personal preference, usage, and what are available on the scope that's in your budget. I would further put on the table that turret design or their presense at all should not be substituted for sacrificing too much in the way of clarity, ability to properly focus the scope, reticle or magnification. Properly applied, these can be used to compensate properly without the use of turrets. So even though they are a plus, should not be an option that makes or breaks a purchase.
Another factor to be considered may be <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Length and Weight</span></span> (as mentioned earlier). Certain diciplines of competition have rules governing it, and many longer, wider "bulkier" scopes may actually hinder you in the hunting woods. Again this is of personal preference and usage of the rifle / optic setup. What <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Tube (body) size</span></span>? 1", 30mm, other? The tube size offers afew advantages. The 1" has been in service forever, and it is relatively easy to find mounting rings. The 30 mm and larger scopes offer better light transmission (in concert with the objective size) and more tube to have additional space for additional adjustment amounts. As they are bigger bodied, they are heavier. If weight is an issue, this may be a factor along with the metal composition of the tube, usually aluminum, but some steel and other "tougher" metals.
One thing not to forget about - <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">The Warranty</span></span>. Whether the scope is $100.00 or $1,000.00, it's good to know that a company backs their product. But make sure to read the warranty, as some are 90 days, 1 year, lifetime (to the original owner), and lifetime transferrable - adds value for any future sale of the optic or rifle / optic combo. Also look for the conditions of the warranty. Some lower cost brands make YOU pay for the sipping TO the company AND BACK and you have to pay insurance on the value of the optic! This warranty work may not cover labor and cover parts, sometimes it's one or another, sometimes both are covered. Sometimes they will find the user at fault, and not replace or fix the scope. Now you are out shipping costs back and forth, and still with a broken scope. Anyway at the end of the day, it really stinks when you think the warranty is rock solid, but have to pay a few dollars less to get your reworked used scope back than just going out and getting another.
There are also other <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Goodies / Accessories"</span></span> that are included with the purchase of a scope - rings, flip up lens covers, sunshades, etc. Though these are nice extras, they shouldn't "distract" you from what you are purchasing - the scope itself. There's a good chance that the rings included are either too high or too low and you'll have to buy another set anyhow, and the lens caps are usually of marginal quality. I do like a sunshade, but generally is another "want" and not neccessarily a "need". All these "goodies" can be added later, and up front one should concentrate more on the quality of the optic itself.
So at the end of this long post, I would stress that when looking for a scope for a rimfire (or for that matter a centerfire) that the above suggestions be looked at so that you know that you are comparing apples to apples. When you have a group of scopes that you are interested in but still have yet to choose "the one", make a checklist of those subjects mentioned to include the "needs and wants" and the "plus and minus" of each, and in each of the price catagories within or near your budget. All that information and price is available either at the sporting goods store, on the internet store (many to choose from), or the manufactures sight. If shopping smartly, you may be able to afford a better optic than you think. Compare shipping costs and tax also, along with any rebates, specials, closeouts, or sales. Like a car, last year's model may be on clearance.
You'll be pleasantly surprised how well the checklist works at weeding out the "not needed" and highlights the "must have" for your application - It basically picks the optic for you. An optic that makes the shooting experience more enjoyable for your style of shooting and stays within or around your budget is a beautiful thing.
From there you can search around on various sites (Natchez, Midway, Optics planet, SWFA etc.) until you can find something that interests you for your purpose and falls within your budget.
Then ask about a 2 or 3 that you have narrowed down to, or use a search EASIER TO FIND STUFF - sniper's hide google search to find the multitude of posts / reviews / comparisons that already probably exist for the ones your deciding on. If there is a certain question about a model that isn't already covered, that's the time to ask about it. You'll at least have some data on a scope that fits your needs and hopefully will base your purchase on facts and not opinions.
Otherwise just a generic question of "which scope should I get" is like asking "what pickup".....the Chevy guys will say Silverado, the Ford guys F150, Dodge guys Ram - mostly based on personal brand loyalty and perhaps not truly based on facts.
