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Suppressors Thunderbeast .22 takedown thread length.

BigTex

Dr. Dickweed
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Jul 14, 2013
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    I came across a strange problem today. While out shooting my new Bartlein barrel on my CZ, I noticed that it is threaded 1/2x28 but the threads are about 0.600" long. Significantly longer than any other .22lr I have more like an AR. My YHM Mite will screw right on but my uncles Silencerco Sparrow would not. It bottomed out before the shoulder. It has a stop built in that I guess is to keep it from screwing onto AR threads. My question is: will the TB .22 takedown screw onto my barrel?

    @TBACRAY

    I placed an order for one today, but if it won't screw on, I'm going to cancel it.

    If not TB, what quality can will work?
     
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    Rimfire thread specs
    1573702238342.jpeg


    You can use a spacer to shorten the effective length
     
    • Like
    Reactions: BigTex
    Anyone got a Dead Air mask that they could measure?
     
    Thanks, I may have to go put one in jail tomorrow. The TB is what I wanted, but it had to be ordered, and it will not work on my barrel. My dealer has a Mask in stock.
     
    Stick with the 22 Take Down. Longer than .400in threads on a .22lr barrel are common. Just put a purpose built spacer on the barrel to take up .200in. This shortens the effective length of the threads, as Zak wrote. I have successfully used a few
     
    That's just a little to jerry rigged for my liking. I realize that Bartlein's threads are what is out of spec, but I already have that part.

    What is the diameter of those spacers, I dont see it listed.
     
    I realize the hesitation to use a thread spacer. It seems like a band aid that most people don't like. But it's a 22 and it won't effect anything. They are really just a threaded washer that will let you use whichever can you want. The other issue is that if you used a can with shorter threads than the muzzle tenon, you could very well lock the can onto the barrel. That's not a good position to be in.

    My recommendation would be to take the barrel to a smith and have them trim the muzzle to .400, which is the standard for rimfire. They shouldn't charge too much for this, it's very simple. Secondarily, order a thread spacer from a reputable company in the diameter of your barrel. It will be square and won't hurt your accuracy one bit.

    Either one will allow you to get the 22 can you want, which is important to me if I'm going to pay $600 (with the stamp), and wait a year to get it. I would also check out the Rugged Oculus, I have a bunch (two of the ones you mention) and it's my favorite. But all of the ones you mention are really good and not aluminum. I can't understand why anyone would look at an aluminum 22 can in the US.
     
    That's just a little to jerry rigged for my liking. I realize that Bartlein's threads are what is out of spec, but I already have that part.

    What is the diameter of those spacers, I dont see it listed.

    How are Bartlein's threads out of spec? Talking with Frank they are book spec. I just measured my Bartlein 22lr CZ 455 barrel, they measure exactly 0.600" as well. I also just measured 2 Keystone Green Mountains, 1 is their 22lr AR barrel and the other their CZ 455 22lr from the group buy. They both also measure 0.600".

    I just measured the depth on my Rugged Oculus22 and depth to first baffle is 0.85" and my QuietBore Titanium Form1 can I built is 0.75" to first baffle.
     
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    Maybe "out of spec" is not the right term. Not meeting the standard convention for rimfire cans might be a little better.

    I will say that when I was having barrels cut for cans some of the companies were a little hesitant to send internal thread drawings like the one TBAC provided above, so I had to take measurements myself on the cans I still had in jail at the time.

    It seems like in this industry we are hesitant to make very many industry standards. Best example I can think of is trigger sear designs. Some triggers work great in one action and will barely cycle in another one.
     
    So my dealer just got my 22 TD and ultra 7 in to start the long wait.

    They have a range on site though so I can go play with the new toys. Will I need a spacer for a tikka t1x?

    My dealer is several hours away so I would like to order anything I need before I go try them out next weekend.

    Thanks
     
    So my dealer just got my 22 TD and ultra 7 in to start the long wait.

    They have a range on site though so I can go play with the new toys. Will I need a spacer for a tikka t1x?

    My dealer is several hours away so I would like to order anything I need before I go try them out next weekend.

    Thanks
    No, the t1x clears fine.
     
    How are Bartlein's threads out of spec? Talking with Frank they are book spec. I just measured my Bartlein 22lr CZ 455 barrel, they measure exactly 0.600" as well. I also just measured 2 Keystone Green Mountains, 1 is their 22lr AR barrel and the other their CZ 455 22lr from the group buy. They both also measure 0.600".

    I just measured the depth on my Rugged Oculus22 and depth to first baffle is 0.85" and my QuietBore Titanium Form1 can I built is 0.75" to first baffle.
    0.600" does not seem to be the industry standard for rimfire. All of my other rimfire guns that are threaded are around 0.400". 0.600 is pretty standard for center fire so maybe that's why keystone and bartlein cut them that way. I ended up buying an oculus. Thunder beast and silencerco cans will not work on 0.600 threads.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: padom
    0.600" does not seem to be the industry standard for rimfire. All of my other rimfire guns that are threaded are around 0.400". 0.600 is pretty standard for center fire so maybe that's why keystone and bartlein cut them that way. I ended up buying an oculus. Thunder beast and silencerco cans will not work on 0.600 threads.

    My .22lr pistols are .40 but all my 22lr rifles are .60-.625. ?‍♂️
     
    I think most of your barrels are custom. I have green mountain and whistle pig 10/22 barrels and the factory cz 457 all are 0.400.
     
    Old thread but I have a td22 and just got my ruger mark iv back.The threads are 0.4375
    My tikka tx1 is .4895
    Do I need to run a spacer?
     
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    Tbac emailed me back,said it would be ok on the mark with a peel washer but the tikka needs to be turned down to .400 unless it’s already at 16 inch.
     
    Tbac emailed me back,said it would be ok on the mark with a peel washer but the tikka needs to be turned down to .400 unless it’s already at 16 inch.
    I know you said no on the spacer, but I run a Christensen Arms spacer for my TBAC 22TD (Mask fits fine) on my Christensen Arms Ranger 22, because it has ultra long threads like your rifle. The spacer is milled flat on both sides for concentricity. They're very inexpensive. My groups have not had any affect, positive or negative. The only thing the spacer did was move the can out about 1/4" to clear the baffles.

     
    Have had the td22 on multiple tikkas now and they have all been fine. It’s damn close but not touching the baffle.

    I had the same concern, but it hasn’t effected accuracy and I havnt seen a need to re thread.
     
    Not crazy about having to run washers.
    Wish tikka would have been more to this spec.
    Is there not a industry standard?
     
    I wasn’t aware this was an issue till I read this thread.
    Ran about 75 through my T1X and brand new TBAC takedown a couple weeks ago. No issues. No accuracy weirdness.
    Measured not just the threaded portion but the whole extension and it runs pretty close to .5” on my chinesium calipers.
     
    I measured the whole distance as well
    I know Tbac is being upfront,cautious and proactive with there response and I appreciate that.Just don’t want to f up anything.
     
    As long as it's perfectly flat, that's a fine alternative
    Seems to be... I haven't had any baffle strikes or issues, and the groups have actually shrank when running my 22TD compared to the groups with my Mask HD. Not sure if that's barrel harmonics, or weight differences in the cans, but my particular rifle seems to really love the TBAC 22TD. The FDE finish looks good on there, too. That's why I ordered a 2nd one in black (waiting on the stamp now) for my other rifles/pistols.