Gunsmithing Tight Tikka Base Screws
- Thread starter Mike 338
- Start date
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
Mike,
You might try tapping on the screw head with the bit in place with a brass hammer to shock the threads. Sometimes it will break the thread lock. Just a thought.
Regards, Paul.
Mike,
You might try tapping on the screw head with the bit in place with a brass hammer to shock the threads. Sometimes it will break the thread lock. Just a thought.
Regards, Paul.
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
+1 on factory loctite, also a soldering iron on the screw head will heat it nicely and makes it easy to remove.
+1 on factory loctite, also a soldering iron on the screw head will heat it nicely and makes it easy to remove.
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
Confirmed.
Heat does it. Two bent and one broken bit later, they're out. Soldering iron got two screws out and had to use a torch for the other two. It took a lot of heat. The rail was glued onto the receiver with generous amounts of something (probably Locktite). Had to use a torch, hammer and punch just to get the rail off.
There's Locktite globed all over the receiver that won't come off with anything that I've got. Will try to get a hold of some Locktite Chisel to dissolve the gunk. Who knows what they're using in Finland to glue these parts together.
I'm exhausted. I would have been happy to leave the base on this rifle if it accommodated aftermarket 30mm rings but the slots are to narrow. I guess your supposed to buy their rings. I will say that the stock rail, with guide pins and all that Locktite will never ever shift.
Confirmed.
Heat does it. Two bent and one broken bit later, they're out. Soldering iron got two screws out and had to use a torch for the other two. It took a lot of heat. The rail was glued onto the receiver with generous amounts of something (probably Locktite). Had to use a torch, hammer and punch just to get the rail off.
There's Locktite globed all over the receiver that won't come off with anything that I've got. Will try to get a hold of some Locktite Chisel to dissolve the gunk. Who knows what they're using in Finland to glue these parts together.
I'm exhausted. I would have been happy to leave the base on this rifle if it accommodated aftermarket 30mm rings but the slots are to narrow. I guess your supposed to buy their rings. I will say that the stock rail, with guide pins and all that Locktite will never ever shift.
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
Mike,
Glad you got it off. Sucks that is was 'dipped' in Loctite. The Finns are an interesting bunch, but they did bring us Lapua, Vihtavouri and TRG's.
There is a better, more user friendly solution, as you're probably well aware. My EGW HD base is double pinned. It's not going anywhere either, but it's a lot more user friendly to get off.
Thanks for getting back to us...
John
Mike,
Glad you got it off. Sucks that is was 'dipped' in Loctite. The Finns are an interesting bunch, but they did bring us Lapua, Vihtavouri and TRG's.
There is a better, more user friendly solution, as you're probably well aware. My EGW HD base is double pinned. It's not going anywhere either, but it's a lot more user friendly to get off.
Thanks for getting back to us...
John
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
Thanks John,
EGW rings & base are already here and waiting.
So how to get pools of Locktite off your gun...
It's already been mentioned on this site but Locktite Chisel is made for this job. The problem is it's nowhere to be found without ordering it. The active ingredient, Methylene Chloride, can be had at an Auto Paint Store. It's Aircraft Paint Remover, about $14.00 per quart. It's about as thick as corn syrup and I put it on with a Q-Tip. It bubbles as it works. Wait 10 to 15 minutes, wipe off and reapply as necessary (3 to 4 coats). Just use a toothpick to dig the gunk out of the ribs on top of the receiver. I see no ill effects on blueing.
Thanks John,
EGW rings & base are already here and waiting.
So how to get pools of Locktite off your gun...
It's already been mentioned on this site but Locktite Chisel is made for this job. The problem is it's nowhere to be found without ordering it. The active ingredient, Methylene Chloride, can be had at an Auto Paint Store. It's Aircraft Paint Remover, about $14.00 per quart. It's about as thick as corn syrup and I put it on with a Q-Tip. It bubbles as it works. Wait 10 to 15 minutes, wipe off and reapply as necessary (3 to 4 coats). Just use a toothpick to dig the gunk out of the ribs on top of the receiver. I see no ill effects on blueing.
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
I wonder if this stuff would work?
http://usaknifemaker.com/adhesives-c-23/1-oz-un-cure-cyanoacrylate-remover.html
We use a lot of different cyanoacrylates in the dental lab biz and this is available at the local hobby store. Not sure if LocTite Threadlocker is similar formulation as CA or not. But this stuff works *GREAT* on hardened CA.
John
I wonder if this stuff would work?
http://usaknifemaker.com/adhesives-c-23/1-oz-un-cure-cyanoacrylate-remover.html
We use a lot of different cyanoacrylates in the dental lab biz and this is available at the local hobby store. Not sure if LocTite Threadlocker is similar formulation as CA or not. But this stuff works *GREAT* on hardened CA.
John
Re: Tight Tikka Base Screws
Dunno but it's only 3 bucks to find out. With a quart of this other stuff, I think I'm set for life. With all the trouble I had getting the screws and base off, I couldn't believe how easy and well this aircraft paint remover worked.
I'd post pictures but can't do it the way things are set up. No matter. A thousand words are worth a picture.
Dunno but it's only 3 bucks to find out. With a quart of this other stuff, I think I'm set for life. With all the trouble I had getting the screws and base off, I couldn't believe how easy and well this aircraft paint remover worked.
I'd post pictures but can't do it the way things are set up. No matter. A thousand words are worth a picture.
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