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Suppressors Tightening a direct thread suppressor ?

mdesign

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 2, 2004
2,134
10
Nebraska
How tight should you tighten a direct thread suppressor on a barrel and should you put any oil/grease on the threads? Is there such a thing as too tight (assuming you "hand tighten" ?

I have a 30 cal direct thread suppressor on an M24 contour barrel and it seems to tighten as I shoot it to the point where you have to give it a few wraps with a small dead blow hammer to get it to break loose when its time to clean. Threads look fine and it turns off with ease once it breaks loose but it appears to be locking into the shoulder engagement of the barrel. Just wondering if I need a different technique when installing.
 
Keep the shoulder clean or oiled with a thin low viscosity oil. Keep the threads coated with a thin layer of anti seize compound.

I have not seen a direct thread suppressor get tighter as you described. I do know that the larger barrel contours like the M24 lock a suppressor on tighter because of the larger shoulder diameter. When you put it on are you torquing it on as hard as you can or are you just bumping it into the shoulder? I'd be tempted to just snug it against the shoulder lightly and make sure that it stayed tight and see if that helped it come off after shooting.
 
I thread my DT 30p-1 until it shoulders up, then just give it a tight quick snug and call it good. Poi is the same every time. I keep anti seize on the threads for easy removal.
 
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The length of the threads on the barrel and suppressor match. I'll try some never seize and a little light oil but maybe I'm tightening it too by hand when I start. I have the same suppressor setup on other rifles with smaller diameter barrels (.750 vs .960) that do not have this issue so i'm thinking barrel diameter has a role.
 
I use copper anti-seize and torque them down hard; as I was taught. I’ve had to use a strap wrench on one that had dozens of mags run through it at once, but never had one come loose. As far as “failures” go I’ll take the strap wrench.
 
I use copper anti-seize and torque them down hard; as I was taught. I’ve had to use a strap wrench on one that had dozens of mags run through it at once, but never had one come loose. As far as “failures” go I’ll take the strap wrench.

I run mine until the accuracy falls off...usually about 500 rounds.
 
Two of mine have wrench flats that makes it easy and I bump with the heel of my hand to tighten as well as removal never needed a dead blow hammer. Small amount of anti seize is helpful.
H
 
There you go. Carbon build up on the thread exposed inside the can.
Yep. This is the cause of the problem.

If you get too much carbon on those exposed threads (which are now inside the can on the "wrong side" of the suppressor threads), you won't be able to get it off and it'll seize. That's why the muzzle threads are supposed to be no longer than the internal suppressor threads.
 
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Zak,

What are your thoughts on lube and antiseize for the threads?
 
A tiny bit of anti seize is not a bad idea on DT threads; don't overdo it and make sure it's not collecting grit/sand. It should not be required; I never used any on my DT threads, and I do not use it on my CB threads.
 
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Just changed from QD to direct thread on my Saker. One advantage of direct thread that I found is that it shortened the suppressor by more than an inch and reduced the weight by several oz (suppressor weight reduced and no muzzle device) and the perceived weight / balance by more because the suppressor is shorter so there is less weight and length out beyond the end of the barrel