• The Shot You’ll Never Forget Giveaway - Enter To Win A Barrel From Rifle Barrel Blanks!

    Tell us about the best or most memorable shot you’ve ever taken. Contest ends June 13th and remember: subscribe for a better chance of winning!

    Join contest Subscribe

Gunsmithing Tikka action wrench

IN a pinch, a square vise applied to the sides of the action will work. Also a Wheeler Mauser action wrench with the v notched flipped backwards will work too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rthur
Brownells Action Wrench with Universal head will work. I just used one and it performed the task just fine.

A rear entry inside action wrench are made by Bugholes/SPR, and PVA, and maybe others I’m unaware of. You can also use an inside rear entry action wrench for a Mausingfield (also from PVA) as they are the same except the Mausingfield has slot in it for ejector which the Tikka wrench doesn’t need.
 
Last edited:
I used the afore mentioned Brownells Universal wrench to remove a factory barrel, and it was stubborn.

Here’s the combination of materials and actions that ended up working for me:

- Brownells Universal action wrench (engages the top receiver flat nicely)
- Mech force barrel vise (a more spendy one might be better but this worked)
- a 36” section of 1-1/4” galvanized steel pipe to slide over top of the handle of the action wrench to use as a cheater
- brown sugar
- hammer
- Kroil

Let Kroil soak into receiver/barrel joint overnight.

Clamp the barrel in the bare aluminum vise blocks, with brown sugar on top and bottom of barrel surface.

With action wrench installed and cheater bar slid over handle, give a few swift whacks to the cheater handle with a big hammer. Make sure you’re hitting it in the right direction.

It’ll work.
 
Last edited:
I would not try to remove a factory barrel with a rear-insert internal style wrench, FYI. You're going to twist something (hopefully the wrench) unless you cut a relief on the shoulder before trying.

Yep - that’s what I was afraid of with mine, and why I wanted to use the Brownells wrench to remove... plan to use internal rear entry for new barrel on/off, since it won’t be torqued on so damn tight.
 
I would not try to remove a factory barrel with a rear-insert internal style wrench, FYI. You're going to twist something (hopefully the wrench) unless you cut a relief on the shoulder before trying.

Yep. Ended up just chucking up the whole action in the lathe (sans trigger of course) and cutting a relief with a parting tool just in front of the action face. Barrel practically came of with hand force.
 
the build in question is going onto a bare action that I had. No need for the excessive tikka barrel removal, thank god. We'll be using the internal wrench for the torquing of a new barrel only.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ledzep