Tikka Bolt Help

[Dimefox]

Trying to get my Tikka action ready to headspace a new prefit barrel that should be arriving soon.

Info seems to be thin online regarding the removal of the ejector. From what I could gather you just knock the roll pin out. Did read one or two posts along the way saying you had to strip the bolt and take out the firing pin assembly before doing so.

Thought I would just try driving out the pin first. Didn't seem to want to go and didn't want to fuck it up by hitting harder so I decided to strip the bolt and try again.

When I was trying to remove the rear shroud and fumbling around the firing pin dropped. I did get the shroud rotated before this happened. Now the shroud seems stuck. I can't rotate it by hand anymore and it won't slide off.

Sticking with the theme of not wanting to fuck things up, I decided to ask for help. I'm guessing I have to figure out a way to recock it? Pic of the current state of the bolt attached. Can take more.

Also, what about the ejector? Hit the pin harder or strip it down? I did this on an AnTi and had keep the ejector depressed while driving out the roll pin. Do I need to do that?

 

[spife7980]

Hook the firing pin trigger interface sear on the edge of a work bench or something that you don’t mind possibly scraping material off of and push down to relief pressure and twist.
Or wrap it in a towel and twist with your hands like a man, I do it both ways (I only included that part for the lols)

It may be a one direction only pin, try it from the other way. A little soaking in wd40 or kroil etc may help.

 

[wade2big]

i use a fired case to help with removing plunger ejectors. Take the rim and snap it under the extractor and then use the leverage created to hold down the plunger ejector with the case head. Now take your punch and hammer and tap out the roll pin. Do this in reverse to reinstall. I do this on the edge of a counter top and can do it alone and I bet you can figure out how, but if you have someone to help it makes it a bit easier.

@spife7980 got you taken care of with your other problem.

 

[Dimefox]

Thanks guys. I'll give it a go tonight. Didn't think it was overly complex but also didn't want to force it without actually knowing what I'm doing

 

[Dimefox]

In case someone else ends up reading this, I just clamped the bolt into my vise, just holding it by the trigger interface sear. Then you can grab the bolt handle to pull and get a little more purchase on it. Made it easy.

@wade2big Do you normally have to beat on the roll pin pretty good? I tried your method of sticking a spent case under the extractor to hold the plunger down. I feel like I really beat the hell out of the punch and the pin didn't move. Maybe I'm being a pussy and need to keep hitting it but don't want to jack it all up either. Seems like the pin should have moved by now.

 

[wade2big]

In case someone else ends up reading this, I just clamped the bolt into my vise, just holding it by the trigger interface sear. Then you can grab the bolt handle to pull and get a little more purchase on it. Made it easy.

@wade2big Do you normally have to beat on the roll pin pretty good? I tried your method of sticking a spent case under the extractor to hold the plunger down. I feel like I really beat the hell out of the punch and the pin didn't move. Maybe I'm being a pussy and need to keep hitting it but don't want to jack it all up either. Seems like the pin should have moved by now.

I don’t know why that thing is giving you fits. It shouldn’t take much to drive out that little pin. As long as the correct size punch is used and it is being etapped at the correct angle, there isn’t anymore to it.

You should have went shouldered prefit. Wouldn’t need to do this.

 

[Dimefox]

Well at least I don't feel quite as stupid. I'm using the biggest roll pin punch that will fit in the hole. I haven't messed with it in a couple of days. Might have time tonight and I'll beat on it more, maybe give it a shot of kroil or something to help it along.

I did get a shouldered prefit. I'll feel much better about shooting it if I know the headspace is good. Better safe than sorry type of thing. It would be my luck to not check the headspace and actually have an issue and blow the gun up.

 

[wade2big]

Well at least I don't feel quite as stupid. I'm using the biggest roll pin punch that will fit in the hole. I haven't messed with it in a couple of days. Might have time tonight and I'll beat on it more, maybe give it a shot of kroil or something to help it along.

I did get a shouldered prefit. I'll feel much better about shooting it if I know the headspace is good. Better safe than sorry type of thing. It would be my luck to not check the headspace and actually have an issue and blow the gun up.

You don’t have to take out the ejector to use a headspace gauge. Just slip the rim of the gauge under the extractor and guide it into the chamber with your fingers as you are sliding the bolt home.

If it were a barrel nut prefit then you would have to remove the ejector to utilize the gauge and install the barrel correctly.

 

[FisherT&C]

To remove the ejector you have to first remove the firing pin assembly. You will drive the ejector pin into the firing pin and that's why it won't come out.
To remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt you have to remove the bolt shroud and then decock the firing pin so there is less spring pressure.
There is a tab on the on FP assembly you have to compress to remove the bolt handle. Then you can remove the ejector. I recommend reinstalling the ejector before the firing pin assembly so you can confirm the ejector pin is not protruding into the firing pin channel.

 

[carbonbased]

 

[FisherT&C]

I love that he's doing that for shooting out of a vehicle.

I should add that if you try to remove the ejector before the firing pin you are hitting the firing pin with the punch not the ejector pin.

 

[mark5pt56]

That ejector appears to be identical to an AR one?

 

[Dimefox]

To remove the ejector you have to first remove the firing pin assembly. You will drive the ejector pin into the firing pin and that's why it won't come out.
To remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt you have to remove the bolt shroud and then decock the firing pin so there is less spring pressure.
There is a tab on the on FP assembly you have to compress to remove the bolt handle. Then you can remove the ejector. I recommend reinstalling the ejector before the firing pin assembly so you can confirm the ejector pin is not protruding into the firing pin channel.

Thank you. This is what I couldn't make sense of. Some ppl say just pound the pin out, others say you gotta strip the bolt first. Glad I didn't have time to work on it. I'll strip the bolt then work on the pin.

I understand I probably don't need to do this with a shouldered prefit, I'll just feel better by checking.

 

[carbonbased]

I love that he's doing that for shooting out of a vehicle.

I assume you are not in favor?

I’ve never hunted in a state that allows this, but for destructive varmints I’d be for it (prairie dogs in particular). Anything else sounds lame.

 

[FisherT&C]

I assume you are not in favor?

I’ve never hunted in a state that allows this, but for destructive varmints I’d be for it (prairie dogs in particular). Anything else sounds lame.

I wasn't being sarcastic when I said I "loved" it.
Your assumption is incorrect.

 

[Dimefox]

Finally had time to dick with this and barrel is inbound. Posting for posterity sake.

Definitely had to strip the bolt, then remove roll pin for the ejector as suggested. My firing pin was slightly bent and had indentations from the roll pin from me whacking on it without stripping it first. I have no idea why/how some people say just hit out the roll pin with no mention of stripping or at the very least, indicating that it's not necessary. It was 100% necessary. Maybe there is a difference between T3 and T3x bolts? Mine is a T3x. Hopefully this will save someone else some heartburn.