Tikka CTR .308 Rust Suggestions

[white_rushin]

Hello all.

I have a Tikka CTR in .308 that I’ve owned for about 3 years. There was a winter in 2021 where it was exposed overnight in freezing temperatures in a packing bag and I discovered some surface rust. I tried my best to clean it off and then made an effort to monitor it.

Fast forward to today, I took it out of my safe and discovered there was most rust, specifically on the right side of the action, left side of the barrel, and in the crown. The bolt looked completely fine.

I believe the cause is when I used it towards the end of summer for a long range day (110 degrees in SoCal desert), likely got a bit of sweat on it from my fingers, and then missed those spots when I oiled it. (Doesn’t explain the crown though)

I attached pictures of the damage. The first photo is of the action before I cleaned it. That wiped off fine. The follow up photos are of the side of the barrel and crown after I tried to do a thorough cleaning.

I plan to take this out on Friday and see how it performs or if the rust on the crown (or god forbid inside the bore) has degraded accuracy.

What do you all personally recommend I do? I am used to ARs and they have been relatively rustproof, so I do acknowledge I screwed up. I could take it to a gunsmith and have them borescope, cerakote the barreled action, and try to fix the crown. Or am I being over dramatic?

Thanks!

 

[Steel+Killer]

I have the same gun in 6.5MB my crown looks worse than that and it shoots great I wouldn't worry about it. Shoot the shit out of it and see what it does.

I will say though that is one of the reasons for my hunting rifle I went SS on my Tikka 300WM I have hunted with it in the rain and just leave it in the back seat of my truck usually until after deer season never a problem.

 

[JerkyFreak]

Well, whatever you use for oiling is not fit for purpose. What did you use for oil and with what did you clean it??

 

[white_rushin]

Well, whatever you use for oiling is not fit for purpose. What did you use for oil and with what did you clean it??

I’ve been using Hoppe’s Black Precision Oil which I thought would be better than that average CLP. But I can change it up and see how that fares

 

[white_rushin]

I have the same gun in 6.5MB my crown looks worse than that and it shoots great I wouldn't worry about it. Shoot the shit out of it and see what it does.

I will say though that is one of the reasons for my hunting rifle I went SS on my Tikka 300WM I have hunted with it in the rain and just leave it in the back seat of my truck usually until after deer season never a problem.

Thanks for the confirmation. Looking back it would be nice if this was SS and more resistant to corrosion. I figure that I’ll still shoot just as great this Friday. At the same time I don’t see this reoccurring problem going away on its own. The idea of cerakoting a bolt action and potentially screwing up the smoothness of the action is a little worrisome to me

 

[hafejd30]

I use rem oil and have had great luck over the years. Personally if it bothers you just rattle can the rifle in whatever color/camo fits your needs

 

[mark5pt56]

I use rem oil and have had great luck over the years. Personally if it bothers you just rattle can the rifle in whatever color/camo fits your needs

This, one example of painting it that serves a purpose.

 

[carbonbased]

This stuff works better than oil or anything else I’ve tried. I like the liquid (above) vs. the aerosol as it’s way less messy to apply. A little goes a long way.

Seems to stick around on the firearm for a long-ish time.

Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Protection Firearms 4.5oz Liquid

Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Protection is a great firearms maintenance tool that rapidly drives out moisture from metal pores and deposits a...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Those blued tikkas are pretty known for rusting. That and the SS barrels being not quite as slow are why I always suggest to go with the SS.

I personally wouldn’t worry about it though. Just try to control it getting worse and shoot the thing. If it really bothers you get it cerakoted or rattle can the thing.

 

[WB300]

Just had this happen to a T3x with the blue'd or black carbon steel.

After 5 years of no issues... I must have put it away with moisture in the bore. A few months later took it out to zero for a Mule Deer hunt and it shot like shit. Visible rust around the crown.

Cut past any visible rust, recrowned and tried again. Got flyers.

Having a stainless barrel put as we speak. Old barrel looks to have rust continuing creep from the muzzle.

 

[white_rushin]

Just had this happen to a T3x with the blue'd or black carbon steel.

After 5 years of no issues... I must have put it away with moisture in the bore. A few months later took it out to zero for a Mule Deer hunt and it shot like shit. Visible rust around the crown.

Cut past any visible rust, recrowned and tried again. Got flyers.

Having a stainless barrel put as we speak. Old barrel looks to have rust continuing creep from the muzzle.

Well this is unfortunate and frightening. How much does the barrel job cost you?

I’ll be sure to report back here this weekend and let folks know how it shoot. I don’t have a scope to check the barrel but it just looked to be around the edges of the crown

 

[white_rushin]

Those blued tikkas are pretty known for rusting. That and the SS barrels being not quite as slow are why I always suggest to go with the SS.

I personally wouldn’t worry about it though. Just try to control it getting worse and shoot the thing. If it really bothers you get it cerakoted or rattle can the thing.

Thanks for the input. I’m so used to anodized aluminum that I have to remember blued and steel based firearms have to be treated with a little more care.

I think my move is going to be to buy a can of Brownells Aluma-Hyde II and have a fun weekend coating the exterior and PVA muzzle brake. I don’t want to touch the internal action or bolt.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Some 0000 steel wool will make easy work of those spots, but don't wet the rust spot with oil and then rub it with the steel wool. Ideally, you want degrease the steel wool to remove the oils that they're packaged with and use the steel wool dry to remove the rust spots. Wipe any left overs from the steel wool, maybe degrease the areas so they're nice and clean and dry, and then follow up with a light oil.

 

[JerkyFreak]

The idea behind oil and steelwool is the oil penetrates underneath the rust allowing the steelwool to remove the rust easier. Also prevents the steelwool damaging the surface around the affected area.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

This.
And.
That.

Oil free steel wool and a light (<5W) mineral oil.
Rub lightly 'til the rust is gone. Wipe off excess.

No need for special products IMO.

 

[WB300]

Well this is unfortunate and frightening. How much does the barrel job cost you?

Got a factory stainless take-off barrel for $175. Being installed as we speak, but I'm also having it threaded for a can.

I'll let you know how it performs when I get it back.

 

[WB300]

Old barrel removed, new one installed, headspaced, touched up the crown, and thread for a can.... $250.

First 5 shots with Fed Fusion printed 3/4 moa. Barely any fouling upon cleaning.

This is a factory new stainless take off barrel that was never shot.

So far, very happy.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Flitz works really well for removing surface rust and getting into light pitting. I have a restored a ton of blued guns this way. Just don't go ham and wear down the bluing.

0000 Steel wool or polishing pads/cloths (less mess than steel wool) and flitz. Keep a oily rag with wd40 or something similar and just wipe it down. Keeping it dry and the humidity below 40% is how to keep rust away.

Or you could have the barreled action ceraktoed and not worry about it. Still need to maintain the bore however.

Also clean your fucking rifle. That much carbon buildup in the grooves at the end of the barrel means you have not been.

This is all basic rifle maintenance. If you can't handle that, you shouldn't own guns.