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Tikka t1x and ss sparrow issue?

SPAK

Stupid can be fixed
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 3, 2009
2,257
112
Alaska
Does Anyone running a SS sparrow suppressor on a t1x notice the back of the can doesn’t meet the shoulder or the barrel??? Anyone have repeatability/accuracy issues at all?
 
This is what I’m seeing... it shoots well but I haven’t taken it off and back on to see repeatability yet..
 

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Nvm... my sparrow is older I guess there is a spacer for it.
 
Better check your thread relief on your barrel. The suppressor should be shouldered...
 
I run one, and haven't had that issue. If you've used the can much at all prior to install, there may be some carbon or lead in the internal can threads that are preventing it from seating all the way. you shouldn't need a spacer. Actually, if you use the spacer that's hiding in the Sparrow box, you'll end up with very few threads engaging the can. I had a similar issue with a CF can, and that's what it was, some crud int he threads. A good cleaning and chasing the threads inside the can fixed it.
 
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Good info, it’s probably due for a cleaning for sure... I’ll try that. Thanks.
 
What he said about built up carbon and crud, happened when I tried installing my Spectre can to the T1x. I have taps and dies for all my popular muzzle threads just in case but solved it with CLP and installing/removing it multiple times and wiping off the crud. Now the can shoulders as easy as it should and comes off without any hassle.
 
You guys were right..... had some Crud built up.... thanks for the help.
 
Update: it’s actually the oring... when I cleaned it all out the threads are chewing into the o ring which is preventing it from shouldering up to the barrel.

Anyone shoot the sparrow without the oring?? Eventually I can see it cutting it up which may cause an obstruction at some point.
 
Update: it’s actually the oring... when I cleaned it all out the threads are chewing into the o ring which is preventing it from shouldering up to the barrel.

Anyone shoot the sparrow without the oring?? Eventually I can see it cutting it up which may cause an obstruction at some point.

I shot a few hundred rounds without that oring because I accidentally forgot to replace it. It seemed to shoot fine for me. I ended up buying a 100 of each ring in those bulk bags.

https://amzn.to/2TJ38Cv - 013 oring
https://amzn.to/38gGsP4 - 018 oring
 
This is what I’m seeing... it shoots well but I haven’t taken it off and back on to see repeatability yet..
Mine looks exactly like yours. I have shot thousands upon thousands of rounds that way with no ill effect.

This is how my Sparrow usually looks before cleaning it. Round count, at least 2,000.
0324191702.jpg


After cleaning.
0807191727.jpg


My cleaning solution. 50/50 mix in a small glass olive jar. Wear latex gloves use at your own risk. Dispose of any way you deem safe.
0807191730.jpg


O-Ring locations and who my o-rings are from. BTW, my hands look freaky because I have latex gloves on.
0807191726.jpg

0807191727b.jpg

0807191727a.jpg


Disassembly method.
0807191734.jpg

0807191734a.jpg

0807191733.jpg
 
Are you bottoming out on the o ring or threading through it until the shoulder meets the can?
 
Are you bottoming out on the o ring or threading through it until the shoulder meets the can?
Bottoms out on the o-ring. Turn it until it gets tight and stop. Never had an issue. If it is a concern you can always buy a pack of 1/2x28 spacers to take up the gap.
 
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KOD, buy some of the Dielectric grease discussed in the other thread and you won't need a hammer or screwdriver anymore to disassemble. Coat everything inside and out with it (except the outside of the outer tube, of course).
 
I’ve been using lubriplate grease on the internals of my sparrow for some time now. Works awesome and keeps things from sticking. Clean up seems easier too.

I ended up taking the oring out, it was so chewed up in there I could see pieces of it shredded. Pretty sure it won’t make a difference. Might just have to clean it more often..