Tikka T1x barrel removal

[Kisssofdeath]

Since the IBI barrel is on its way, I thought I would go ahead and remove the barrel. So far I have one screw out and 3 broke bits.

Currently I have Kroil soaking the threads, and a 30 pack of T15 bits coming. If I break another I'm going with some heat.

Has anyone removed their barrel and if so what method did you use?

 

[Just Chuck]

I've tried my barrel as well and got about the same results. The barrel is still on - no give. I think heat may be the answer.

BTW - I like PB Blaster for loosening (most) bolt/nuts.

 

[srt-4_uk]

The magic mix for penetrating oil in the car world is a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid.

 

[Eoddave27]

Since the IBI barrel is on its way, I thought I would go ahead and remove the barrel. So far I have one screw out and 3 broke bits.

Currently I have Kroil soaking the threads, and a 30 pack of T15 bits coming. If I break another I'm going with some heat.

Has anyone removed their barrel and if so what method did you use?

In the T1x thread I posted a long post about this. I am having my barrel replaced. I took my to a Smith because I’m having mine fitted from a blank. My smith had to drill out and replace the screws. Both the T1x rifles I have are the same. The first screw came out and the next two had to be drilled. My smith said he was able to place over 100 in/lbs of force and the screws would not budge. After that he tried different compounds and heat with no luck. There is no thread locker on them either. They are just that tight.

 

[littlepod]

This is why I waited for KoD to get his done as I'm not a very handy person and I don't know of any good gunsmiths around here I trust to do the work. IBI said I could do it at home, but everyone I've heard had issues removing their T1X barrel.

The scope rails on a T3X CTR were also horrible to remove and people needed to use heat guns / torch, but maybe that was more of a loctite issue.

For the barrel, instead of trying to do sustained pressure, do hard wacks with a hammer kind of impact to loosen the screw. That's what I saw in the T3 threads.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

The magic mix for penetrating oil in the car world is a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid.

Good information, never heard of that mix.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

@ Just Chuck, never tried PB Blaster.

@ Eoddave27, if the heat from my butane torch and the tapping as littlepod mentioned doesn't work I will lock the barrel in my vice and use an "easyout" in my drill and see what happens. I would want to use every idea possible before drilling out the set screw.

I have a few ideas, just wanted to see what others might have done. I believe a lot of people may end up changing out their barrel in search for that extra little bit of accuracy or consistency. So, I'll follow my progress with photos and if successful I'll post on here.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

In the T1x thread I posted a long post about this. I am having my barrel replaced. I took my to a Smith because I’m having mine fitted from a blank.

Where are you at in your barrel swap?

 

[Eoddave27]

My new blank will be here tomorrow and I’m dropping it off to my smith. He tried everything he could to remove the barrel the first time I took it to him. After snapping off the second wrench he just went to drilling and replacing. He is a very good gunsmith so I think if he resorted to drilling it was the only option left. I know he tried heat and several other methods with no luck.

When I originally dropped of my rifle to have the barrel swap done I took him a 10/22 barrel for him to turn the tenon down and fit it like another member in the T1x thread did. The issue was the tenon on the 10/22 that fits into the receiver was .05” to small. He could have turned the tenon longer and fit it but I wanted it done right. If I’m going to switch the barrel I want to see an improvement in accuracy. So he put the factory barrel back on and I ordered another blank with the chamber cut and muzzle threaded but no tenon turned for the receiver. He said he will be able to turn it over for me pretty quick so hopefully I will be able to shoot it next weekend with the new barrel. Depending on how this shoots I may do the same thing with my CZ eventually. Honestly it shot so well with SK ammo last week I may not even rebarreled it. I’m ordering some more SK ammo to see if it was a fluke. It honestly shot so much better than I expected I think it was a fluke and the next lot will shoot more like I would expect a factory barrel to shoot. I probably just lucked out and had a magic lot of the SK ammo for that rifle. Unfortunately I only had one box of it.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

What barrel did you go with for the Tikka swap?

Do you have photos for the 457 and SK? My 457 Varmint is a 5/8" gun for now.

 

[Stooxie]

What the hell can drive in a screw that tight if there is no thread locker? What, are they dunking them in liquid nitrogen before screwing them in? How is it possible that they can't come out?

 

[Eoddave27]

I got a Feddersen. I have had fantastic luck with them. I have seen a few with what appeared to be flaws but all of them were great shooters.

I didn’t take any photos. The target was pretty chewed up from zeroing and testing different ammo. Once I get my new ammo in I will shoot some good groups and see what I get. If it continues to shoot the SK like it did the last box I had it will be significantly more accurate than my Tikka which is saying something. I guess we will see. I’m hopeful but very skeptical that it will continue to shoot like that.

 

[Eoddave27]

What the hell can drive in a screw that tight if there is no thread locker? What, are they dunking then in liquid nitrogen before screwing them in? How is it possible that they can't come out?

It didn’t make any sense to me either but both the T1x’s I have snapped off some pretty beefy torx wrenches and the bolts didn’t budge.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

What the hell can drive in a screw that tight if there is no thread locker? What, are they dunking them in liquid nitrogen before screwing them in? How is it possible that they can't come out?

It's the same way with the bolt handle. Not sure why Tikka thinks anything needs to be that tight.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

I got a Feddersen. I have had fantastic luck with them. I have seen a few with what appeared to be flaws but all of them were great shooters.

I didn’t take any photos. The target was pretty chewed up from zeroing and testing different ammo. Once I get my new ammo in I will shoot some good groups and see what I get. If it continues to shoot the SK like it did the last box I had it will be significantly more accurate than my Tikka which is saying something. I guess we will see. I’m hopeful but very skeptical that it will continue to shoot like that.

I wish mine would shoot that good.

 

[Eoddave27]

It's the same way with the bolt handle. Not sure why Tikka thinks anything needs to be that tight.

The bolt handle on my two rifles came right off. The one on my friends rifle was a different story. It wouldn’t come off no mater what I did. If he decides to switch it I guess we will try heat to take it off. For right now I Ground it down and cast him a new knob on it using a urethane resin. It is basically the same as the DIP bolt handle but basically cost nothing.

 

[Tomiboy]

+1 on PB blaster!!

 

[Eostech]

Since the IBI barrel is on its way, I thought I would go ahead and remove the barrel. So far I have one screw out and 3 broke bits.

Currently I have Kroil soaking the threads, and a 30 pack of T15 bits coming. If I break another I'm going with some heat.

Has anyone removed their barrel and if so what method did you use?

Are you sure it's a t15? My t1 uses a 3mm hex bit, into which a t15 bit will fit but most likely break because those screws are tight AF. Load a three mill Allen key up until it's got a fair bit of tension on the screw and then tap the end of it with a smallish hammer, sort of like a impact wrench. That broke the screws loose on mine (though I thought I'd break the key) now my main issue is that the barrel is really tight in the action. I had heard of people just pulling the barrel or rotating it to time the extractor cut in the action, this is not happening with my rifle.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Are you sure it's a t15? My t1 uses a 3mm hex bit, into which a t15 bit will fit but most likely break because those screws are tight AF. Load a three mill Allen key up until it's got a fair bit of tension on the screw and then tap the end of it with a smallish hammer, sort of like a impact wrench. That broke the screws loose on mine (though I thought I'd break the key) now my main issue is that the barrel is really tight in the action. I had heard of people just pulling the barrel or rotating it to time the extractor cut in the action, this is not happening with my rifle.

Eostech,

What barrel are you putting in yours? Are you in the process of installing the barrel now? Post some photos of your progress please.

I'm pretty sure it's a Torx screw. Here is a photo, I got one out and was testing my screw extractor on it in the photo in case I need to go that route. The center screw has a broken bit which I removed after the photo. The left screw is clearly evident that what I have is a T15 Torx screw.

Does anyone know the screw size? I'd like to know I can easily get them before using this last resort method or drilling? Thursday or Friday I will go to Fastenal and see if they have the same size.

 

[Eostech]

The magic mix for penetrating oil in the car world is a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid.

This worked really well, strait through the action and down the barrel, tapped the barrel out with an aluminium dowel. still took a bit of hitting and it was definitely glued in with something like a thread locker, so a bit of heat would not go amiss though I'd use a heat gun around 150C to start and not a flame type torch.

 

[Eostech]

Yeah so that has to be a Torx screw, mine are not (maybe different dates of manufacture? not sure about the age of mine.)

Here is the receiver with whatever tikka uses.


Kisssofdeath
Just pulled the barrel to have a look, but maybe a Shilen select match grade just to try out or a IBI.
anything else?
I'll measure those screws now.

 

[Eostech]

The grub screws are m6x1, 6mm long.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

The grub screws are m6x1, 6mm long.

Thanks for the measurements, I'll be going to Fastenal today. Your screws look like Torx style also but with the edges rounded some.

Received an email from IBI tell me my barrel will be crossing the border today.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Well amazingly no one close by has this specific set screw. A Fastenal with a 30 minute drive has them but they are 10mm long. I got my 30 pack of T15 bits so let's see what happens.

 

[Hellbender]

Use one of these, you will also need to buy the correct size Torx bit with a socket end to fit. You smack it with a hammer and it turns the screw at the same time.

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[Eostech]

Thanks for the measurements, I'll be going to Fastenal today. Your screws look like Torx style also but with the edges rounded some.

Received an email from IBI tell me my barrel will be crossing the border today.

That got me seriously thinking lol, maybe I had mangled my torx screws with a hex key, I was using a set to break the rifle down and didn't think of it at the time. Double checked and they are 3mm hex screws, checked a new T15 screw and a 3mm hex driver will not fit so I could not have used one to damage the screws. (I think Tikka may have changed at some time.) The damage in the picture was because they were so tight to undo, I think it was at the edge of rounding off.

In a pinch you could always cut those 10mm ones down provided the driver hole isn't too deep.

Very interested in seeing how the IBI shoots.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Hellbender is on to something.

Eostech, you may be right. I know I have one Tikka that has different size (same type) action screws than my others.

BTW, barrel is off. No damage to the screws so I can still use them. With the right tools this really wasn't bad. Photos will come soon after I get everything together. But for now one photo.

 

[littlepod]

Hellbender is on to something.

Eostech, you may be right. I know I have one Tikka that has different size (same type) action screws than my others.

BTW, barrel is off. No damage to the screws so I can still use them. With the right tools this really wasn't bad. Photos will come soon after I get everything together. But for now one photo.

View attachment 7158510

So what is the conclusion in terms of the right tools/process to get the job done w/o damaging anything?

 

[Eostech]

Hellbender is on to something.

Eostech, you may be right. I know I have one Tikka that has different size (same type) action screws than my others.

BTW, barrel is off. No damage to the screws so I can still use them. With the right tools this really wasn't bad. Photos will come soon after I get everything together. But for now one photo.

View attachment 7158510

Nice work.
Was your barrel stuck in with a thread locker type product? Or did it just pull out?

 

[Kisssofdeath]

I have thought about how I should write this up. I don't want to make it a book so I'll just insert a photo and try to give a detailed explanation of what I used, did, or whatever above it.

Continuing from above, yesterday I got my 30 pack of T15 bits. The barrel has had almost a week to soak with the Kroil. Littlepod triggered my memory of having this tool which is a type of tool that Hellbender shows. It is a very heavy duty impact driver. I had to assemble adapters to neck down to the bit. I made two hard hits on each screw and ended up breaking another bit. Then I used a boxed in ratchet style wrench that is used to remove side mount battery cables and put that down on a bit until it touched the barrel. I applied pressure very slowly then let up and applied again and this method eventually broke both loose. A lot of tools will work for this but I recommend something that gets you down close to the screw as possible.

After getting the set screws out I had to find something to drive out the barrel. With what I have to work with I come up with this long 1/2" drive extension. It fit perfect for this use, not too tight and not too loose as to move around when hitting it. I also used my old as dirt BFH <-- "figure it out" to hit the extension. You can see where the barrel face is in the first photo and where it moved in the second. This took 3-4 hard hits but after it started moving it would move with each hit. No damage was do to anything by using this method. Some of you may prefer to use something else or put a piece of leather between the barrel and whatever but I wanted the full blunt force of the hammer and didn't want anything absorbing some of it.

And that pretty much sums it up as for the removal process. Below are some added photos.

There was a some type of glue or something used between the barrel and receiver. See photos. Also in the second photo, notice how the scope base screw are protruding through and one did make contact with the barrel. This scope base and screws are from Mountain Tactical. I will try to remember to contact them on Monday to let them know their forward screw is touching the barrel.

Contact shown on the barrel from the scope base screw.

Dried glue/residue on the barrel shank. Out of photo space.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Dried glue/residue on the barrel shank.

Cleaned up.

As an added bonus here is the magwell housing removed. Photos are before cleaning. I highly recommend cleaning this mainly because there is only one 5mm bolt holding it in place and it was easily removed. No adjustment needed, bolt off bolt on.

Also, in the background is the battery terminal wrench I used on the T15 bits.

Well, hopefully this will alleviate some stress or anxiety anyone may have when thinking about removing the barrel. If I had applied the slow, controlled pressure in the beginning instead of using a screwdriver handle I may not have broke 4 bits. I'm not sure how much of an impact the impact wrench did have. Obviously I didn't hit it hard enough to break loose the screws and when I did hit it hard enough it broke another bit. If anyone has questions or needs photos of anything let me know.

 

[littlepod]

Dried glue/residue on the barrel shank.

View attachment 7158565

Cleaned up.

View attachment 7158566

View attachment 7158567

View attachment 7158568

As an added bonus here is the magwell housing removed. Photos are before cleaning. I highly recommend cleaning this mainly because there is only one 5mm bolt holding it in place and it was easily removed. No adjustment needed, bolt off bolt on.

View attachment 7158569

View attachment 7158570

Also, in the background is the battery terminal wrench I used on the T15 bits.

View attachment 7158571

Well, hopefully this will alleviate some stress or anxiety anyone may have when thinking about removing the barrel. If I had applied the slow, controlled pressure in the beginning instead of using a screwdriver handle I may not have broke 4 bits. I'm not sure how much of an impact the impact wrench did have. Obviously I didn't hit it hard enough to break loose the screws and when I did hit it hard enough it broke another bit. If anyone has questions or needs photos of anything let me know.

Thanks! Oh by the way that mag well, I tightened that screw with the ejector wire and my rounds eject a lot better now.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Thanks for the tip. If I start having ejection issues I'll take a look at that.

Thanks! Oh by the way that mag well, I tightened that screw with the ejector wire and my rounds eject a lot better now.

 

[littlepod]

Also when you install the mag well back on, I noticed the mag well has a bit of movement, you can slide it fore/aft by 2mm. I bet this also adjusts how rounds feed. I know I slid it forward towards the barrel, and I had a harder time feeding my rounds. Need to go and adjust it rearward and see how that goes tomorrow.

 

[Hellbender]

After seeing how this gun's barrel is retained (the set screws mashing the barrel) I think it explains the very different accuracy some people are experiencing. I think how heavy handed the factory assembler is could vary how the bore is constricted at this most critical place on the barrel...ie...at the throat of the bore.

If you slug a quality barrel you can feel ANY outside constriction (even a slightly over torqued tuner on the muzzle, or if a threaded bbl is over torqued to the receiver) in the bore. This is not as critical in a gun using a jacketed bullet, as brass has "spring" and will not be as affected by a tight spot in the bore.

BUT...pure lead (.22 RF) is "dead", ie...it has no "spring back" and ANY deformation of the bullet in the bore stays deformed after the constriction.

If it was me, I would not use the highly torqued set screws to install a new high end barrel (I would even fix this on a FACTORY bbl).

I would do the following:

1. Remove barrel, make sure ALL old adhesive is removed from receiver. Temporarily install new barrel, set headspace (.042 feeler guage), and LIGHTLY torque setscrews in proper location.

2. Check function, go out and shoot a couple boxes of shells and make sure everything works properly (fix/adjust as needed).

3. Tighten/loosen the REARMOST (the one only over the chamber) setscrew several times as to make a little divot in the barrel...just so you can put the bbl back in EXACTLY the same spot on reassembly (you'll be able to see and feel the setscrew go back into the divot upon reassembly).

4. Disassemble everything, clean everything with brake cleaner to degrease. I'd use Rocksett (or one of the proper Loctite compounds) and coat all mating surfaces, then install the barrel, and replace the setscrew (just to locate the bbl.). I like Rocksett, as you just have to soak overnight in water to remove, no heat needed.

5. When cured, loosen the setscrew.....I would probably reinstall the three setscrews with blue Loctite at very low torque (ie...only use short end of allen wrench to tighten).

This would relieve the bore mashing stress of the three setscrews. Might even make a factory barrel shoot better!

I think I'll post this in the main TIKKA thread as well.... Thanks Kissofdeath for the good pics that explains/shows the details of assembly!

 

[Just Chuck]

Just a thought - Anyone considered using cold (freezing) before trying to remove the barrel screws? I don't know if getting to say, 0 deg F would be of use with the impact driver.

Heat expands materials - cold contracts. If there are thread lock adhesives may not work.

 

[Hellbender]

Just guessing, I'd bet some of that bbl. adhesive is on the threads of the factory screws, causing the removal problems.

If so, a pencil tip torch or soldering iron held in the center of the screw for a while should soften it and then the impact driver will loosen.

Or sometimes a small hammer tapping the allen wrench as you turn it will help (after softening with the heat).

 

[Eoddave27]

Mine didn’t have any thread locker. I wish I could have got my hands on some liquid nitrogen like I have used for shrinking things apart in the past. I used to use it to get explosive charges out different containers. Chill the explosives and I could pop them right out most of the time. It is almost like these things were assembled cold and the metal expanded and fasteners tightened up when the metal warmed to room temperature. I even tried an impact wrench on it with no luck. I don’t see how they could possibly get the fasteners that tight with a driver without breaking the bits.

 

[Hellbender]

If you want to try cooling it off, buy a can of "compressed air" and turn the can upside down, the fluorocarbon will come out as a liquid and chill the screw quickly.
I would actually heat the receiver around the screws up first with a heatgun to 250 degrees or so (spit will quickly boil, if you don't have a temp reader).

 

[Eoddave27]

My gunsmith tried heat with no luck. Went up to just under 300 F.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Also when you install the mag well back on, I noticed the mag well has a bit of movement, you can slide it fore/aft by 2mm. I bet this also adjusts how rounds feed. I know I slid it forward towards the barrel, and I had a harder time feeding my rounds. Need to go and adjust it rearward and see how that goes tomorrow.

My bolt flange has a bolt head impression marked in the plastic flange, I'll put it back where it was by that indicator.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

After seeing how this gun's barrel is retained (the set screws mashing the barrel) I think it explains the very different accuracy some people are experiencing. I think how heavy handed the factory assembler is could vary how the bore is constricted at this most critical place on the barrel...ie...at the throat of the bore.

If you slug a quality barrel you can feel ANY outside constriction (even a slightly over torqued tuner on the muzzle, or if a threaded bbl is over torqued to the receiver) in the bore. This is not as critical in a gun using a jacketed bullet, as brass has "spring" and will not be as affected by a tight spot in the bore.

BUT...pure lead (.22 RF) is "dead", ie...it has no "spring back" and ANY deformation of the bullet in the bore stays deformed after the constriction.

If it was me, I would not use the highly torqued set screws to install a new high end barrel (I would even fix this on a FACTORY bbl).

I would do the following:

1. Remove barrel, make sure ALL old adhesive is removed from receiver. Temporarily install new barrel, set headspace (.042 feeler guage), and LIGHTLY torque setscrews in proper location.

2. Check function, go out and shoot a couple boxes of shells and make sure everything works properly (fix/adjust as needed).

3. Tighten/loosen the REARMOST (the one only over the chamber) setscrew several times as to make a little divot in the barrel...just so you can put the bbl back in EXACTLY the same spot on reassembly (you'll be able to see and feel the setscrew go back into the divot upon reassembly).

4. Disassemble everything, clean everything with brake cleaner to degrease. I'd use Rocksett (or one of the proper Loctite compounds) and coat all mating surfaces, then install the barrel, and replace the setscrew (just to locate the bbl.). I like Rocksett, as you just have to soak overnight in water to remove, no heat needed.

5. When cured, loosen the setscrew.....I would probably reinstall the three setscrews with blue Loctite at very low torque (ie...only use short end of allen wrench to tighten).

This would relieve the bore mashing stress of the three setscrews. Might even make a factory barrel shoot better!

I think I'll post this in the main TIKKA thread as well.... Thanks Kissofdeath for the good pics that explains/shows the details of assembly!

You are welcome, sometimes I feel I should have included more detail.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

@ Just Chuck and hellbender, those are two great ideas. More than one way to get the barrel off for sure.

 

[wyocaddis]

Hello KOD, Great report looking forward to your range reports and how it compares to your factory findings.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Hey Wyocaddis, glad you could make it over here. I'm also looking forward to seeing how it does.

 

[Lt281]

Hello Gents first post! This morning I installed a IBI barrel on my Tikka T1x. Pb blaster a little heat. Those torx set screws came out with a little effort. (There was some type of epoxy on the screws).
I would like to know if you tried outyour barrel and how it’s doing. By tonight I should have a few rounds through it! I head spaced it by eye. However I think I’m only a hair from bottoming the barrel. Not sure first time I changed a barrel.

 

[littlepod]

Hello Gents first post! This morning I installed a IBI barrel on my Tikka T1x. Pb blaster a little heat. Those torx set screws came out with a little effort. (There was some type of epoxy on the screws).
I would like to know if you tried outyour barrel and how it’s doing. By tonight I should have a few rounds through it! I head spaced it by eye. However I think I’m only a hair from bottoming the barrel. Not sure first time I changed a barrel.

https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...re-maybe-first-in-the-us.6965390/post-8101169

 

[littlepod]

https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...re-maybe-first-in-the-us.6965390/post-8101169

I shot a few rounds of a friend's RWS Rifle Match today... it fed sooo smoothly. I might need to get some boxes to play around with it, but SK+ and Lapua Center-X shot so well that I have 7500 rounds of that stuff ordered... so maybe too late to order more rimfire..

 

[Lt281]

Unfortunately I got to the range late. they had the last call up. I shot a bunch of rounds at steel 100 yards. Wolf extra match. It’s a little tight. Sk long match ran smooth. Eley match and Eley practice 100. I could barely feel a round load. Super smooth. Federal premium hunter match smooth. American eagles bulk buy for 180 bucks would not load at all. Cci green label was a little tight. We have some snow coming the next couple of days. Not sure when I can see how this barrel groups.

 

[littlepod]

What's your barrel chambered in? Win52d or Eley EPS?