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Tikka t1x or CZ 457 american?

athanasios23

Sergeant
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Minuteman
Dec 28, 2009
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New York, USA
Looking to pick up one of these rifles for a fun gun at the range. I'll probably use it to shoot squirrels and maybe a rabbit or two.

Looking to get peoples opinion who may have gotten some time with either of these rifles. Still undecided between 17hmr or 22LR.

Any experiences good or bad would be appreciated.
 
I have a T1X and love it. I don't have a 457, but I do have a 455 Varmint in 22LR and 17HMR. Both gun are good. In my area it would be what you could find, over what you want. As far as 22LR or 17HMR. The 17 HMR may be too much power for Tree squirrels , but would be my choice for ground squirrels.

Mark
 
I have a T1X and love it. I don't have a 457, but I do have a 455 Varmint in 22LR and 17HMR. Both gun are good. In my area it would be what you could find, over what you want. As far as 22LR or 17HMR. The 17 HMR may be too much power for Tree squirrels , but would be my choice for ground squirrels.

Mark
Why would you shoot “tree squirrels” anywhere but in the head? Caliber makes no difference with proper shot placement. The .17hmr is a dream at 100y across the lawn to the oak grove. The .22 is better suited to 25y away thinking they’re hiding in a tree. IMHO of course.
 
I have a T1x and have nothing but good things to say about it. It is true that there aren’t any aftermarket barrels available for it but the factory barrels are so accurate I don’t see there is a need at this point. The CZ’s I have seen are hit or miss with accuracy. Most of the guys I know who’s CZ’s shoot as good as my tikka have after market barrels.
 
I've had a truck load of CZ rimfires over the years. I've never seen accuracy to be hit or miss. I think they will shoot with anything in their price range. Proper care and break in as well as the ability of the shooter will determine how the owner thinks it shoots. As far as the aftermarket barrels go the guys that make them get paid well to make barrels. People that buy these barrels are not going to say they don't shoot better than the OEM barrel, that would admitting they screwed up buying the barrel. And if they don't shoot better the maker should be jailed.
 
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I love my T1X! It shoots better then a $500 dollar gun should. Below is a pick of my first ammo test done at 50 yards. These are after a put. 100 rounds through it.
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BFC0022C-6FB7-4906-8833-501B1772EED0.jpeg
 
Sorry for the double and full size image. First time I’ve posted one.
 
I have a CZ 457 MTR. I believe it’s the same as the American but a different stock. It shoots lights out for the first range trip I’ve had. It’s probably just a fluke but I shot a .64 group at 100 with center-x. The rain came in and shut that range trip down or I’d continued testing it. I’d say the CZ would be my choice, for the same reason many chose the 700 clones-accessories. The barrels will swap caliber/type which doesn’t force you to chose a caliber for the long term.

But that’s just my .02¢, take it for what you paid for it.
 
I am a huge fan of TIkka, but I am going to but a 457VPT as soon as I find a threaded one available.
 
I bought 457 American & Varmint MTR rifles; the American is a classic sporter, with a light 24" bbl, while the Varmint MTR has a heavy 20.5" un-tapered bbl with a tight chamber in a rather unique stock that's well-suited for competition. Unfortunately, my American hasn't shot very well at all, while the MTR is a good shooter. I pulled the American's bbl and cut a new 11* crown, which helped a little, but after450-500rds through it, I'm now working on finishing a Shilen select match ratchet rifled #5 bbl for it.

Would like to have been able to buy a Tikka T1x a few months ago, but after working with the two 457s, and finding the MTR to be as good as I'd hoped it would be, and working towards that level with the American, I think I'll stick with the CZs, and switch to my V-22s when I need something better than that.
 
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Here's a follow-up on the Shilen select match ratchet rifled #5 bbl I did for my CZ457 American. It's a glue-in - I didn't want to screw around with cutting the grub screw seats in the shank, so after I'd gotten the extractor grooves & the shelf for the feed tray cut in the breech of the Shilen, and finished it with 20ml graphite black/10ml tungsten CeraKote, I de-greased everything as good as I could with aerosol brake & parts cleaner, then spread some Loctite 609 over the shank & the interior of the action's bbl socket, then twisted them together. I put the action in the 4-jaw chuck of my lathe, jaws padded with leather belting, and ran the tailstock quill up against the face of the thread protector on the muzzle, put a little pressure on it, and left it sit overnight. After 14hrs, I pulled the bbl'd action out of the lathe, cleaned up any excess Loctite, then put it into the OEM stock, torqued the rear action screw to 25in/lbs, front to 20in/lbs, mounted the scope back on it, and went to shooting. Accuracy at 50yds was really close to as good as I'd hoped for with a good lot of SK Std+, and about the same with a good lot of SK LR Match. Everything else I shot in it was respectable, just not quite as good as those two lots of ammo. Overall, it's a big improvement over the factory bbl., and it now out-shoots my Varmint MTR by a fair margin, so the only thing I can do (besides selling the MTR) is to order another Shilen for it. Hope to have time to get the 2nd Shilen done before too long - went with another select match ratchet rifled blank, but this one's .850" dia straight, just .016" under the straight .866" OEM bbl on the MTR.
 
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Here's a follow-up on the Shilen select match ratchet rifled #5 bbl I did for my CZ457 American. It's a glue-in - I didn't want to screw around with cutting the grub screw seats in the shank, so after I'd gotten the extractor grooves & the shelf for the feed tray cut in the breech of the Shilen, and finished it with 20ml graphite black/10ml tungsten CeraKote, I de-greased everything as good as I could with aerosol brake & parts cleaner, then spread some Loctite 609 over the shank & the interior of the action's bbl socket, then twisted them together. I put the action in the 4-jaw chuck of my lathe, jaws padded with leather belting, and ran the tailstock quill up against the face of the thread protector on the muzzle, put a little pressure on it, and left it sit overnight. After 14hrs, I pulled the bbl'd action out of the lathe, cleaned up any excess Loctite, then put it into the OEM stock, torqued the rear action screw to 25in/lbs, front to 20in/lbs, mounted the scope back on it, and went to shooting. Accuracy at 50yds was really close to as good as I'd hoped for with a good lot of SK Std+, and about the same with a good lot of SK LR Match. Everything else I shot in it was respectable, just not quite as good as those two lots of ammo. Overall, it's a big improvement over the factory bbl., and it now out-shoots my Varmint MTR by a fair margin, so the only thing I can do (besides selling the MTR) is to order another Shilen for it. Hope to have time to get the 2nd Shilen done before too long - went with another select match ratchet rifled blank, but this one's .850" dia straight, just .016" under the straight .866" OEM bbl on the MTR.
You have not tried tuning your stock screws?
 
I bought a CZ based on good reviews, and I never could make it shoot worth a darn. My 10/22 with Green Mountain barrel shoots much better than it ever did.

It was a pretty gun, cycled well, and I wanted it to shoot, but it just didn't, and I tried several different things to no avail.

I guess what I'm saying is that I'd go witht he T1x. My CF bolt gun is a 6.5 CM Tikka CTR, and that thing is lights out, and it's just incredibly rare to hear of any Tikka that won't shoot. So that gets my vote.
 
I bought a CZ based on good reviews, and I never could make it shoot worth a darn. My 10/22 with Green Mountain barrel shoots much better than it ever did.

It was a pretty gun, cycled well, and I wanted it to shoot, but it just didn't, and I tried several different things to no avail.

I guess what I'm saying is that I'd go witht he T1x. My CF bolt gun is a 6.5 CM Tikka CTR, and that thing is lights out, and it's just incredibly rare to hear of any Tikka that won't shoot. So that gets my vote.

I bought one CZ and experienced the same thing.

I'm eyeballing a T1x in 17 hmr that's been unsold for months now hoping they'll put it on sale!
 
I bought one CZ and experienced the same thing.

I'm eyeballing a T1x in 17 hmr that's been unsold for months now hoping they'll put it on sale!

I’ve heard of stories like these, and all I can say I’m sorry you guys drew short straws. My CZ rimfires have been excellent, and my 455 American in .17hmr is as accurate as any rifle I own inside of 150yds.

That said, I drew the short straw on a CZ 527 micro Mauser, so maybe CZ just isn’t all that consistent.
 
I’ve heard of stories like these, and all I can say I’m sorry you guys drew short straws. My CZ rimfires have been excellent, and my 455 American in .17hmr is as accurate as any rifle I own inside of 150yds.

That said, I drew the short straw on a CZ 527 micro Mauser, so maybe CZ just isn’t all that consistent.

I had a facotry CZ455 Amercain that didn't shoot that well. I currently have a CZ 452 Lux and a CZ 513 (based on the 452) that are very accurate and consistent.

I should also receive a CZ 527 Royal in a few days. I hope it will shoot (the test target is pretty impressive). How was the test target on your 527 and how does it actually shoot? I suppose you've shot it with light grain bullets as it has a slow twist rate.
 
1:8 isn’t slow for Grendel, it’s pretty standard. It’s fine for the 100-123gr pills I’ve put through it.

Accuracy is not the issue, build quality and action smoothness are. I did an in depth review a year or two on the 6.5 Grendel forum (you can find it under my same username), and it hasn’t gotten any better another ~300rnds later.

I’ve got the test target in the storage unit somewhere, I’ll dig it out next time I’m over there. It didn’t stand out one direction or the other though.
 
I'd probably go with the tikka as I still have a bad taste in my mouth over the 455 I had for a while. It wouldn't shoot well with anything I bought for it regardless of different lot numbers. If I personally buy another 22 rifle it will be an Annie.
 
If I personally buy another 22 rifle it will be an Annie.
Yep

Only gun I REALLY regret selling was my 164 sporter that would shoot 1 hole at 50 yards and just under an inch at 100. Needed the money and the finish was wearing off bad, and a guy paid me way more than I paid for it, but I still wish I had it.
 
1:8 isn’t slow for Grendel, it’s pretty standard. It’s fine for the 100-123gr pills I’ve put through it.

Accuracy is not the issue, build quality and action smoothness are. I did an in depth review a year or two on the 6.5 Grendel forum (you can find it under my same username), and it hasn’t gotten any better another ~300rnds later.

I’ve got the test target in the storage unit somewhere, I’ll dig it out next time I’m over there. It didn’t stand out one direction or the other though.

I didn't know it's a Grendel. I wrongly assumed it's a 223.
 
I was torn between the Tikka/Bravo combo or the CZ 457 VPT. Since my CF rifles are all in Manners/MCM stocks, I went the CZ route. The first day out with it I shot a 6x5 and averaged .59x" @50yds with mid grade ammo (CCI SV and Federal match) I had some groups in the .3s and .4s, nothing over 3/4". I shot a few 25rd aggregates @ 100 yds and with Eley Target it held ~1.5" with 19 shots under 1". This was all done from an atlas bipod and rear bag in the wind. I am thinking it will tighten up as the bore breaks in and I plan to try some SK Rifle match and Lapua Center-X on my next days off if the damned wind would lay down for a few hours.

The trigger breaks @14oz and has no creep or over travel, it is a VERY nice trigger. Only complaint I have is that it does not have an adjustable comb. I have one on the way from Manners that I will install in the next week or so in order to get a cheek weld vs a chin weld. This probably wouldn't be necessary if the A419 rail wasn't so tall, I wish CZ would've just drilled and tapped it for a rail from the factory. I mea seriously no one is going to use cheapass 11mm dovetail rings on a tac trainer. The stock that manners is building for CZ is every bit as nice as my other PRS-1 and the inletting is very close to perfect, I'm probably going to skim bed it anyway, it already has pillars installed. After some minor polishing the bolt throw and lift is like glass. I have shot around 800rds through it and have had absolutely no failure of any kind, feeds and ejects like a champ.

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I love my Tikka rifles, those jokers just plain shoot, I went with CZ strictly based on stock options and I am not disappointed. I have a feeling the Tikka would not have disappointed either, infact my shooting buddy picked one up today, so we'll give 'er a try. After market is a little stronger for the CZ if you are interested in that sort of thing.
 
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Think either could be a good choice personally I am shooting for the 457 mtr from cz , if the store ever calls me back with one . They did say a month so I can be patient , no I can't .
 
Travclem - I bought a couple of 25 MOA scope rails for my 457 American & Varmint MTR from BScar - they're less than half as high as the 419 rail, and have four set screws that engage the drilled holes in the top of the 457's action. Very nicely done, and he charges only $35 shipped.
 
Travclem - I bought a couple of 25 MOA scope rails for my 457 American & Varmint MTR from BScar - they're less than half as high as the 419 rail, and have four set screws that engage the drilled holes in the top of the 457's action. Very nicely done, and he charges only $35 shipped.
I have heard good things, I just feel that from a strength standpoint, the 419 is a stronger mount with the clamping force distributed equally along the full length of the dovetail. It may be purely academic on a .22, but I'm paranoid. I'll just raise the cheek a hair.