I’ve been reading about recoil lugs , my question to all the experienced shooters out there who have changed from a stock to a chassis is the recoil lug supposed to touch the bottom of the pocket it sits into , and touch your allowed slot on the receiver. I put a thin layer of grease on the recoil lug sat the barrled action in and torqued to 40 inch lbs, took it apart and no contact from chassis to receiver, I’m new to all of this go easy on me, I’ve read wher they add aluminum tape to the recoil lug on the RRP in order to make it a tighter fit, the chassis manufacturer claims that there made not to touch?
- Thread starter Pipefitter I’m
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Thank you for replying I’m new to this precision stuff, i started down this rabbit hole about a year ago, read everything and anything i can find and i still know nothing lol . I wish I’d of started 50 years ago I’m really enjoying it
You’re welcome! It’s a fun and expensive rabbit hole haha
You do not want the recoil lug to touch the bottom of the pocket in the chassis AND the relief cut in the action, the upper most part, at the same time.
When you tighten the action screw, it would have the potential to act as a jacking bolt, so the receiver never truly locks into the chassis and is "balancing" on the recoil lug. Possibly lightly bending your receiver, which will have bad accuracy issues.
Plasticine is also a good tell-tale. Very tiny ball on a surface, tighten things down. Either flattens lightly, or smashed it into the size of a quarter, which means its bottoming out.
When you tighten the action screw, it would have the potential to act as a jacking bolt, so the receiver never truly locks into the chassis and is "balancing" on the recoil lug. Possibly lightly bending your receiver, which will have bad accuracy issues.
Plasticine is also a good tell-tale. Very tiny ball on a surface, tighten things down. Either flattens lightly, or smashed it into the size of a quarter, which means its bottoming out.
