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Tikka T3 Lite

Little Yoshi

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 29, 2010
120
0
54
Odenton, MD
I've been jones'ing for a 7mm for some time for LR steel shooting (+1200yds) 'cause I can't shoot 300WM due to neck and back issues. I have an opportunity to get a Tikka T3 Lite (7mm) for a great price and was wondering what y'all would consider the first upgrade to be? I am guessing the stock and bottom metal... Anything else? Or, can I shoot it as is with decent results?
 
You'll want to change the bolt shroud and recoil lug. Perhaps you can get a rail. Leave everything else as is.
 
I would just do a muzzle brake for now to soften the recoil for your back and neck. Just shoot it for awhile and let the rifle tell ya what ya need. My buddy has the .300 and it's a very accurate rifle with FGMM. I bet if ya reload for it, it will shock ya with how accurate it is. No reason to turn a $700.00 rifle into a 2,000 rifle if ya don't have to.
 
I just purchased a SS T3 Lite LH in 308. It's going to be my 1st attempt at putting together a sporter weight 'slip hunting' rig. To keep costs and weight down and I am using the factory stock, trigger, plastic bottom metal and magazines. I replaced the 1" scope rings, recoil pad, bolt shroud and bolt handle. I purchased a stock bedding kit (pillars-recoil lug-screws), Picatinny rail and 30mm rings. I'm going to bed the pillars/action with Marine-Tex.

An alloy bolt shroud is needed. A Limbsaver recoil pad as well if you're keeping the stock. It won't be optimal for prone long range work though, but then neither is the light weight barrel.

Anyone know a 'smith who is set-up to thread Tikka barrels while still on the action?



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Why all the fuss on the polymer bolt shroud? To me that is just a want not a need. If you break that your doing shit wrong! I'd say put a limbsaver pad on it and shoot the damn thing.
 
Why all the fuss on the polymer bolt shroud? To me that is just a want not a need. If you break that your doing shit wrong! I'd say put a limbsaver pad on it and shoot the damn thing.
what he said and get some good ammo.
 
There are lots of reports of the plastic shrouds cracking. Mine cracked on my 223AI and it was never dropped or abused, just shot. Last I checked that's what guns are for and shooting isn't doing something wrong.

OP, if you have neck and back issues you should look into a different rifle. I assume you're talking about a 7mm rem mag and if that's the case they kick like a mule in the T3 and it's not going to be an enjoyable gun to shoot. Even 308 in that rifle is too much for target shooting IMO.
 
Sounds like you need to do some more research. While the T3 Lite is a good HUNTING gun, its not something you want to put to many rounds through with it's thin barrel.

7Mag does not have much less recoil than 300WM, and your MUCH better of going with 300WM for LR shooting due to cost and availibity of parts. 260 should also get you out to 12-1400 depending on load/barrel.

While the T3 stock is servicable, its really not optimal. The other issue is LA and Mag Calibers cannot be fed into a Tikka action using AICS bottom metal, even though all tikka's are long actions.

So your best choices (if you want to stay with tikka/sako) are to wait for the .260 CTR to come out, Buy a .260 Sporter , Buy a .260 TRG or buy a 300WM TRG.


IF you REALLY want to shoot LR, invest in a 300WM TRG and go to town. You can find them used for less than a custom build. The other option is a 300 WM custom build ($1000 Stiller, $340 Barrel, $100 Rail, $1000 AICS + $500 or so in smith/install fees), and you have have AICS with a very solid action and great barrel for less than $3K. The weak link of the TRG is the Mags, and unless you want to TRG it out ($800 for stock and $250 for AICS conversion[short action only]).

There is also the AR-30, but the TRG-42 is hard to beat for the price.
 
I did do my reseach and know the Lite is a hunting rifle and looked at the charge weights for both the 7mm and 300wm. The 7mm came in at roughly 10grains less that the 300wm on average. Figured that would noticeably reduce the kick. Guess not. In addition, mainly looking at the Tikka T3 Lite for the action... In the end, it would get a new barrel, break, and stock. But, if it's not the caliber I've been looking for, I'll just stick to my .260. Was just looking for a "little something extra" for the extended distances.
 
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Like others have said, if this is for target shooting only, then get a big heavy gun with a long fat barrel and put a high quality brake on it. While the 7mmRM is a fantastic cartridge, it's going to pound you out of a sub 7lb. rifle. Look for something double that for a dedicated target gun.

What you need to do is get your needs in order first, then go looking for a gun. While I think the T3s are a fantastic platform for hunting and builds, they are not optimal for target shooting out of the box, but are for hunting.

Also if you are going to brake the gun (which you should if you have back problems), go with the 300WM as it will be like shooting a .308 or less when properly setup. For that matter, how about a braked .260. Maybe you don't need all the power of the magnums and will feel like a .223.

Oh, and read, read, read, read. When you get to the 100th tab, move to the "Ballistics & Range Report" forum below. More goodness there.

Edit (since your post posted before mine).
Since you have a .260, run it an see how well it does. If you need more, go with the magnum. Find the need before filling the void. That being said, if you just want a bigger boom.. go for it. I do.