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Tikka T3X TAC 1 question

Zatoichi66

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 23, 2018
189
25
I recently purchased the above in 6.5CM with 24” barrel. I put a Vortex Razor Gen II HD 4.5-27x 56mm scope on it.

My goal: long range 300+ to 1000 yard targets.

Prior to this purchase, the longest barreled rifle I have is 20” which came with a Smith muzzle brake. My M4 2000 causes about a 6” drop at 100 yards, so I quit using it & reserve it for my SBRs.

Is a rifle barrel more accurate without a muzzle brake? I would think not, otherwise competitive shooters wouldn’t use them. I don’t know how the Tikka factory brake fits in & is it worthwhile?

I prefer to shoot my rifles with a can, aka “silencer,“ my M4 2000 or G5 in .22 centerfire obviously won’t work with 6.5. cans cut down noise, blast and headaches. BUT a 24” barrel with a 7“ or 9” add-on can will be quite long, and I expect it will cause POA/POI shift. My research has led me to a Thunderbeast Ultra 7 or Ultra 9, but my guess is the added length will significantly drop the POI.

So, my questions:

1) Muzzle brake, yes or no? Factory Tikka or other?

2) Silencer on a 24” barrel—nuts or yes? Will POI shift so much it’s useless?

Thank you!
 
There are two ways a brake can worsen accuracy:
1. Changing barrel harmonics and moving accuracy nodes (just like a tuner)
2. Being manufactured poorly and deflecting has asymmetrically. This would be more likely to produce a repeatable POI shift though.

The first is certainly something that can happen although I don’t think it’s that common.
 
Length doesn't matter for PRS style comps. If your target is 300+ yards away, the length of your barrel won't matter.

Get the Thunderbeast Ultra 7 in .308 (you will have flexibility between calibers) if you always shoot with ear pro. The Ultra 9 isn't bad but adds a bit more length and weight for a few decibels saved.

Get an Ultra 9 in 6.5 if you hunt without ear pro

Always shoot with the can on. Don't worry about POA/POI if you're always using the can. Sight it in with the can on and always use it.

Save your hearing for the long run, some recoil mitigation, less blast all around, and people you shoot with like you more.

You will shoot slightly more accurately with a muzzle brake, but the overall training/hearing loss/blast isn't worth it for me as someone who has never placed.

I wouldn't recommend any other silencer at this time for bolt guns.
 
I have the 6.5 Ultra 9 on my TAC A1. Yes, there is POI shift but you'll have that with just about any can. I've shot out to 1000 yards just fine with the can on there. The POI shift on the TB is pretty repeatable. If you really want to switch back and forth between can and no can, you'll want to do your own testing to determine POI shift and repeatability. For me, as another poster noted, I just always shoot suppressed. I had one target I shot a 5 shot group as the last of one range outing. took of can and packed up the TAC. Two weeks later I was back. Screwed on the can and I shot at that same POA on the target and you'd never guess the groups were two weeks apart. All under 1/2" on target.
 
Is it best to simply screw the can onto the barrel, or is brake to attach the can & barrel required, like my G5 & M4 2000?

it would seem can to barrel threads would be best— one less area for error.
 
I have the 6.5 Ultra 9 on my TAC A1. Yes, there is POI shift but you'll have that with just about any can. I've shot out to 1000 yards just fine with the can on there. The POI shift on the TB is pretty repeatable. If you really want to switch back and forth between can and no can, you'll want to do your own testing to determine POI shift and repeatability. For me, as another poster noted, I just always shoot suppressed. I had one target I shot a 5 shot group as the last of one range outing. took of can and packed up the TAC. Two weeks later I was back. Screwed on the can and I shot at that same POA on the target and you'd never guess the groups were two weeks apart. All under 1/2" on target.

I second