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Tikka T3X Varmint stock

88magnum

Private
Minuteman
I just purchased a Tikka T3X Varmint in 6.5 Creedmoor. Is the synthetic stock decent for shooting long distance or will I need to replace it right away with something better? Is it as good as say...the HS Precision stock that comes with a Remington 700P? Thanks
 
Its decent enough. I know a lot of people that use it as is. For prone position shooting an adjustable recoilpad is nice, but you can get by without.
 
It was fine for me, but I did dremel it out to give the barrel more clearance - suggest doing that especially if you intend to run a bipod or rest her further forward on the stock. As long as the barrel was free, the stock didn't hinder bughole groups. I expect by the time you get a load or two worked up, you'll know if buying a new stock will be worth it for you (luxury rather than necessity imho).
 
I also just bought a Tikka T3 because I have heard rave reviews about their accuracy. I really like the rifle. It shoots beautifully and I haven't even finished working up a load. One of the best trigger I've ever squeezed....... But.... The synthetic stock is just horrible. The butt is way too light and the whole thing looks and sounds way too much like it is made by mattel.

Thinking about a decent wood or laminated stock for the thing.
 
Here's mine as a 6.5 Sherman Max in the std Tikka Hunter stock. It does feel better than the plastic, but the plastic geometry with the more vertical handle is nicer for prone. Different feel/comfort/balance, but both shoot the same for me.
PXL_20210326_234536759.jpg
 
KRG Bravo
MDT XRS

Both better than the garbage that comes on it. Wood or laminate stock def not worth looking at either. If you want a real stock get a McMillan or Manners but prepare to spend more. The Bravo will be a good starting point until you really figure out what you want from a stock/chassis without braking the bank
 
It was fine for me, but I did dremel it out to give the barrel more clearance - suggest doing that especially if you intend to run a bipod or rest her further forward on the stock. As long as the barrel was free, the stock didn't hinder bughole groups. I expect by the time you get a load or two worked up, you'll know if buying a new stock will be worth it for you (luxury rather than necessity imho).
I was going to say exactly what Chickentoast said above. I had no issues with mine. Take some plastic off it it touches your barrel of course.

If you're not running long ammo, the factory mag is reliable as I had 4 of them and they worked perfectly. Given the price of factory mags, you might be better of transitioning to the Bravo and running MDT AICS style mags which are much sturdier.

Never had an issue with factory magazines, but they are much less burly than the MDT or AI AICS. The diff in mags is the same as the diff between the factory stock vs a Bravo.

Only thing I didn't like was that there is no barricade stop, but accuracy wise it worked great if the LOP is right for you. It was for me.

I run a Bravo with a T3x Varmint and it has been flawless. I'm definitely a fan though I wish the grip wasn't so thick. Great for the $$$. Not convinced you get much better performance with a chassis or stock over the factory plastic unless it fits you better or PRS specific usage.

As long as nothing is making contact with the barrel the accuracy should be the same. .223 recoil is light but the heavier Bravo does absorb it better than the lightweight factory stock which feels unbalanced when used offhand/kneeling with a heavy scope.

If on a tight budget, stick with the factory stock. If you think you'll move it to a stock or chassis, do it earlier and skip the Dremel as the stock/mag might be able to net you some cash in a sale. Or just wait for a great deal and keep shooting.

Always budget for ammo. Ferrari or Miata... stupid to have mods on it but not have $ for gas to actually drive it.