Tikka TACT A1 muzzle brake issues.

[PTCX3]

Just picked up a T3X TACT A1 in 6.5 CM. When I was setting it up today, I could not get the muzzle brake to secure properly. The manual says to thread it all the way down and then back it off until it’s aligned. Then you just tighten an allen bolt to clamp it down. It calls for 8 Nm of torque but it’s not even close to being secure. It’s as if I’m missing some sort of shim ring or it’s for a larger diameter barrel. Anyone ran into this issue before?
I called customer service and the gunsmiths were gone for the day but they’re going to send me another one. I’m surprised they’d package the wrong one. Am I missing something here!?
Appreciate the help guys.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

I had this exact model (assuming 24" barrel) as my first "serious" precision rifle. If I recall correctly, you screw the brake on and tighten the Allen bolt to lock it in position, as you describe. Don't worry about the stated torque - just tighten the Allen bolt until you can't unscrew the brake by hand. Obviously, if the two clamping surfaces pulled toward one another by the Allen bolt actually tighten against one another and the brake is still loose, something is wrong. Hopefully you have a local smith you can consult, because in my experience Tikka service is slow and, for anything other than something obvious like you're describing, of questionable value.

The TAC-A1 is a great turn-key solution to get into precision rifle. I started five years ago with the TAC-A1 (not sure why the Tikka site calls it "TACT A1" now) and a T3X Varmint in .223. I moved on to customs because I could, and I'm happy with them - but the Tikka actions were at least as smooth, and accuracy was very comparable. Enjoy your rifle.

Edit: I'm not certain, but I think Tikka only ships one brake for all calibers, so not sure if "the wrong one" could -be- shipped...

Edit-2: Not sure which customer service number you called, but you can also call Mountain Tactical, whose web site is TikkaPerformance.com .

 

[PTCX3]

I had this exact model (assuming 24" barrel) as my first "serious" precision rifle. If I recall correctly, you screw the brake on and tighten the Allen bolt to lock it in position, as you describe. Don't worry about the stated torque - just tighten the Allen bolt until you can't unscrew the brake by hand. Obviously, if the two clamping surfaces pulled toward one another by the Allen bolt actually tighten against one another and the brake is still loose, something is wrong. Hopefully you have a local smith you can consult, because in my experience Tikka service is slow and, for anything other than something obvious like you're describing, of questionable value.

The TAC-A1 is a great turn-key solution to get into precision rifle. I started five years ago with the TAC-A1 (not sure why the Tikka site calls it "TACT A1" now) and a T3X Varmint in .223. I moved on to customs because I could, and I'm happy with them - but the Tikka actions were at least as smooth, and accuracy was very comparable. Enjoy your rifle.

Edit: I'm not certain, but I think Tikka only ships one brake for all calibers, so not sure if "the wrong one" could -be- shipped...

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes it’s the same model and first precision rifle for myself. Since they’re sending me a new brake and this one is essentially free, I torqued it down until the allen key bent. Still not tight enough. And the contact surfaces don’t seem to have moved any closer.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes it’s the same model and first precision rifle for myself. Since they’re sending me a new brake and this one is essentially free, I torqued it down until the allen key bent. Still not tight enough. And the contact surfaces don’t seem to have moved any closer.

Ok, that's weird. I'll be curious as to whether a replacement brake resolves the issue. Good luck. (Is there a bit of metal or debris stuck in the clamp adjacent to the Allen bolt that could preclude sufficient tightening?)

 

[PTCX3]

Here’s some pictures. First one shows that only a minimal amount of torque should be required for it to bite. In other words it’s not designed for the surfaces to meet in my opinion. Second shows the gap between the barrel and brake.

When it’s fully threaded on, it doesn’t jiggle at all but it isn’t aligned. When I back it off about an eighth of a turn to align the ports correctly, it jiggles and tightening the allen screw doesn’t help.

I tried giving it a little more pressure when I threaded it on to see if there was a dried factory bead of loctite or a spur on one of the threads I had to overcome but that wasn’t the case.

FYI That top screw is just for a mirage strap and doesn’t lock it down at all

 

[DownhillFromHere]

This is just odd. I can't think of any reason why you couldn't wind several turns of plumber's teflon thread tape onto the threads to give you temporary use of this brake until the new one shows up... although I guess it could make a mess.

There's also the option of a 3rd-party brake, but if I recall correctly the thread pitch used on the Finnish Tikka is different from the usual 5/8x24 US pitch for the mid-caliber barrels.

 

[a03]

I had the same issue. I had to back off the muzzle device by almost 3/4 of the final turn - felt like one full rotation. I used a Husky 1/4in torque wrench with a hex socket to torque down the screw. Torquing down this screw needed some strength. Provided Allen key are pretty useless for take level of torque.

 

[ma smith]

IMHO, $0.02 cents worth...

I'd Just skip using the OEM brake and send it back to Beretta for warranty.

Especially if you think you are going to mess up your threads.

Absolutely do not use the mirage strap as a grub screw.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

I had the same issue. I had to back off the muzzle device by almost 3/4 of the final turn - felt like one full rotation. I used a Husky 1/4in torque wrench with a hex socket to torque down the screw. Torquing down this screw needed some strength. Provided Allen key are pretty useless for take level of torque.

^^^ What he said. When I read your response (" I torqued it down until the allen key bent..."), I misinterpreted to understand the bolt head itself deformed or stripped.

Yeah, I used a ratchet wrench with a 1/4" hex socket to tighten the allen bolt.

 

[Johnerz]

The 5/8ths X 24 threaded barrels all come with the same muzz brake (for a 338 lap mag iirc) I nev found mine head to fit, but apart from weight was almost pointless on my 6.5 CM, I chose the moderator route

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

IMHO, $0.02 cents worth...

I'd Just skip using the OEM brake and send it back to Beretta for warranty.

Especially if you think you are going to mess up your threads.

Absolutely do not use the mirage strap as a grub screw.

Tell me you haven't dealt with Beretta CS without telling me you haven't dealt with Beretta CS.

You would be better off putting the message in a bottle and hoping a Mermaid is fucking a genie and can miracle you a new brake.

Just buy an aftermarket brake, the factory one is shit anyway. APA, A419, ACE. If it starts with an A, it will work.

 

[DrDeath]

Same issues