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Tikka UPR stock…

hangunnr

Team Shutupnshoot
Full Member
Minuteman
May 7, 2002
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Flatlandia
Had one of these come in for a paint job, never handled one before. The line down the middle that bisects the stock is different than anything I’ve seen before. Is this typical of Tikka / Sako composite stocks? Is it strong, stable enough?

2rruEG.jpg

pSNo2Y.jpg

qVlyMH.jpg

3G8l1D.jpg


Other than the curious construction it’s pretty stiff and light for an adjustable stock. 29oz as it sits….
The cheek piece is all plastic construction and I don’t believe it would fare well if subjected to much of an impact.
 
There must be lots of UPRs around, and I haven't noticed people complaining about strength and stability.

The original color is really unappealing to me. I see that a bit of paint helps with that (y)
 
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There must be lots of UPRs around, and I haven't noticed people complaining about strength and stability.

The original color is really unappealing to me. I see that a bit of paint helps with that (y)

I agree the original paint is not very tactical or geared towards hunting. Seems to be a blank canvas by design?
 
I agree the original paint is not very tactical or geared towards hunting. Seems to be a blank canvas by design?
The original color might actually work somewhere....
The UPR is on my short list of rifles to get in my hands. If I decide to buy one, I'll definitely want to do something about the color. Just to make it look nicer in my eyes.
 
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The original color might actually work somewhere....
The UPR is on my short list of rifles to get in my hands. If I decide to buy one, I'll definitely want to do something about the color. Just to make it look nicer in my eyes.

I wonder if “Sako Green” is a proprietary color or it’s available as a spray paint.
 
I got my UPR in and honestly, finish looks pretty good as is. Stock is great and a certain upgrade to the plastic CTR stock.

34975BB9-0477-4562-AB6F-D8D786263461.jpeg
 
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Had one of these come in for a paint job, never handled one before. The line down the middle that bisects the stock is different than anything I’ve seen before. Is this typical of Tikka / Sako composite stocks? Is it strong, stable enough?
Each side of the stock is molded individually, then bonded together. It's not typical of Tikka stocks - most are fiber reinforced injection/compression molded. The UPR design adds rigidity and strength.
 
Had one of these come in for a paint job, never handled one before. The line down the middle that bisects the stock is different than anything I’ve seen before. Is this typical of Tikka / Sako composite stocks? Is it strong, stable enough?

2rruEG.jpg

pSNo2Y.jpg

qVlyMH.jpg

3G8l1D.jpg


Other than the curious construction it’s pretty stiff and light for an adjustable stock. 29oz as it sits….
The cheek piece is all plastic construction and I don’t believe it would fare well if subjected to much of an impact.

Do you paint stocks for customers that ship them to you?
 
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No sir I don’t, generally just for friends and family. I would be happy though to share what I used on the stock shown above if you would like.
 
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I am curious to hear what you used....as well as your method for the camo pattern....which is quite nice btw....

rk
 
No sir I don’t, generally just for friends and family. I would be happy though to share what I used on the stock shown above if you would like.
i would love to hear as will. did you use sponges? just picked up a green krg bravo and it is desperate for some paint imo. paint a lot fo my surfboards and even did a beater truck before. cant figure out if i want to do tan with gray or black as the second color. any pics of any other rifles youve done and technique would be appreciated
 
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Nothing really special about how I paint, anyone can do it.
The most important part is the prep work, make sure everything is as clean as you can get it. I prefer acetone.
I put the stock in my hot box set at 80 degrees to warm it a bit prior to spraying. I have found I don’t get runs in the paint if I get a little heavy with the spray if the stock is warmed a little.
I use Brownells Aluma-Hyde epoxy. The colors on the Tikka were matte black base coat with stainless and dark parkerized for the accents. The most important part of using the Brownells spray is giving it ample time to cure. At ambient temp it can take up to 2 weeks to fully cure, it’ll seem dry at 24 hours but it’s still gonna be a little soft and will easily mark. I made up a hot box to speed up the cure. I‘ve found 48 hours at 90 degrees will fully set the paint.
For the accent colors natural sponges are the best route, they are completely random shaped and pretty cheap. Most craft stores sell them. I use the ones from Joann fabrics.
After the base coat is cured you simply spray a puddle of your accent color on a paper plate and dab the sponge in it and apply as desired, just dab don’t smear it. Again, give it ample time to cure before handling.

The hot box…
oBsbdO.jpg

It uses a 150watt radiant element as a heat source.

Just started playing with the sponges, here’s a couple of the earlier efforts.
3YUZHR.jpg

m4bvB5.jpg

8UfrLY.jpg

The base coat colors on the Rem muzzle loaders are a Coyote on one and Magpul FDE on the other. The accents are earth brown and OD green.
 
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Just started playing with the sponges, here’s a couple of the earlier efforts.

m4bvB5.jpg
they all look fantastic thanks for sharing. Do you just use just normal kitchen sponges or anything in particular? really like the texture on this one