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Tikka UPR - thoughts

rimfire22lr

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 24, 2018
205
300
I am liking the look of this one. I wonder how fat of a barrel the stock can accommodate?
 
For everyone else to have something to go off of since youve never heard of it before like me https://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-upr

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I thought I saw somewhere that it would be available with two different triggers. I assume that would be the standard single stage or the 2-stage from the TAC A1. I will likely buy one if the 2-stage is a reality but, I would definitely buy one if they would offer it in 6mm creed with the 2-stage. I'm guessing the big Tikka/Sako announcement is going to be new calibers.

Bob
 
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I would imagine it is inlet for the CTR barrel that is close to light palma.
 
I thought I saw somewhere that it would be available with two different triggers. I assume that would be the standard single stage or the 2-stage from the TAC A1. I will likely buy one if the 2-stage is a reality but, I would definitely buy one if they would offer it in 6mm creed with the 2-stage. I'm guessing the big Tikka/Sako announcement is going to be new calibers.

Bob

Okay, NOPE! No 2-stage trigger. It is the adjustable single stage or the set single stage. I think that is a huge miss on their part. Do the people who make these decisions even shoot? Who would want THIS rifle with a non-adjustable trigger?

Bob
 
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Okay, NOPE! No 2-stage trigger. It is the adjustable single stage or the set single stage. I think that is a huge miss on their part. Do the people who make these decisions even shoot? Who would want THIS rifle with a non-adjustable trigger?

Bob

I do believe that all Tikka triggers are adjustable, don't think they would change that now.
 
I do believe that all Tikka triggers are adjustable, don't think they would change that now.

They may need to explain what a "set" trigger is then. From their web page, "You can choose between single stage or set trigger."
If you go to the link Spife provided and select the triggers option box on the left, there are three choices but, 2-stage is not selectable. Whatever the "set" trigger is, it's apparently not the 2-stage from the TAC A1.

Bob
 
The set trigger is exactly what they say it is: a set trigger

Do you just not know what a set trigger is?

Its mostly historical but sako, cz etc still use them on some models. It allows you to have a heavier pull weight trigger by default while also allowing you to have a lighter pull weight trigger if you want it.
There are 2 styles.
The first is a single set trigger where you pull it for a heavy trigger or you can push it forward, usually, which turns it into a low pull weight.
The second version is called a double set trigger where you can just go straight to pulling the heavy second trigger or you can pull the first trigger and it enables the second for a really low pull weight.

In doing a little googling tikka has always had a set trigger but no one really ever imported them to the states in any appreciable numbers.
 
The set trigger is exactly what they say it is: a set trigger

Do you just not know what a set trigger is?

Its mostly historical but tikka, cz etc still use them on some models. It allows you to have a heavier pull weight trigger by default while also allowing you to have a lighter pull weight trigger if you want it.
There are 2 styles.
The first is a single set trigger where you pull it for a heavy trigger or you can push it forward, usually, which turns it into a low pull weight.
The second version is called a double set trigger where you can just go straight to pulling the heavy second trigger or you can pull the first trigger and it enables the second for a really low pull weight.

In doing a little googling tikka has always had a set trigger but no one really ever imported them to the states in any appreciable numbers.

I did not know what a set trigger was...but I do now. Thanks!

Bob
 
all i know is that the UPR is far from 'ultimate precision rifle'

theyd have been better off throwing a bull barrel on it, threading, and putting it in a KRG Bravo

Let's play how many different stocks can we put a CTR into and sell more of them. Give us a heavier barrel in a stock that you can bolt some accessories onto in some PRS popular calibers.
 
The first is a single set trigger where you pull it for a heavy trigger or you can push it forward, usually, which turns it into a low pull weight.

Just to clarify for those unfamiliar with single set triggers...…….
1. The normal trigger operation (close bolt, pull trigger) is not necessarily any heavier than a standard trigger.
2. The ultra lightweight trigger pull is activated by first pushing the trigger blade forward until it clicks (setting it) then pulling on the trigger

I used to have a CZ 550 with a single set trigger. The normal trigger was like 3 lbs and the set trigger was like 8 oz (crazy light).
 
Just to clarify for those unfamiliar with single set triggers...…….
1. The normal trigger operation (close bolt, pull trigger) is not necessarily any heavier than a standard trigger.
2. The ultra lightweight trigger pull is activated by first pushing the trigger blade forward until it clicks (setting it) then pulling on the trigger

I used to have a CZ 550 with a single set trigger. The normal trigger was like 3 lbs and the set trigger was like 8 oz (crazy light).
Good point of clarification. When I said "heavy" Im leaning towards my paper punching hobbies where a pound is pretty heavy. The heavier stages are all usual rifle pull weights, not a plastic 9lb glock trigger or anything ridiculous.
 
I think the new UPR stock was a good move on their part and making it available with a 20moa rail was also a good decision. Besides not offering the 2-stage trigger, their other big mistake was not using their existing varmint barrel and threading it. They have all the stuff they need right there in the inventory and just needed to put them together in the right combination.

Bob
 
I have the set trigger in my CTR. I installed the yo dave trigger spring and can adjust it just like the others.
 
I think the new UPR stock was a good move on their part and making it available with a 20moa rail was also a good decision. Besides not offering the 2-stage trigger, their other big mistake was not using their existing varmint barrel and threading it. They have all the stuff they need right there in the inventory and just needed to put them together in the right combination.

Bob
They also leave out the left handed market.
 
The UPR stock is just much a takeoff and trash stock as the CTR was.

20moa rail is the only worthwhile improvement...assuming it's actually a good rail.
I dont think the CTR T3x stock is takeoff trash by any means. I dont think the Tikka lite T3X stocks are either. These are plenty stiff and the rifles shoot well in them. Now the plastic stocks that come on Remingtons, Savage, etc are pure junk but do work.
 
The UPR stock is just much a takeoff and trash stock as the CTR was.

20moa rail is the only worthwhile improvement...assuming it's actually a good rail.

It doesn't sound like trash. Carbon fiber and fiberglass aren't a guarantee of a good stock but, I'd expect it's better than a lot of the factory offerings. I have to agree with wade2big, my CTR shot .7moa 5-shot groups out of the box. Might have done better if I'd adjusted the trigger but, I swapped for a Timney and put the BA in a different stock at the same time.

Bob
 
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I don't see the point of this rifle or it's intended purpose. If weight is a factor, you still get the CTR. If weight is not a factor, you want a thicker barrel. They really should have put their varmint barrel on this one.

The stock looks thoroughly unimpressive, I especially don't like the shape of the underside of the buttstock. There's too little material behind the butt hook, and it's angled the wrong way. For the MSRP of 1500 you'll be much better off with a CTR in a Bravo.
 
I don't see the point of this rifle or it's intended purpose. If weight is a factor, you still get the CTR. If weight is not a factor, you want a thicker barrel. They really should have put their varmint barrel on this one.

The stock looks thoroughly unimpressive, I especially don't like the shape of the underside of the buttstock. There's too little material behind the butt hook, and it's angled the wrong way. For the MSRP of 1500 you'll be much better off with a CTR in a Bravo.
This guys.

The stock is fine as a normal stock. But it's not a precision rifle stock by today's standards or even yesterday's. Its lacking tons of features. The shape is wrong. Theres just so much wrong about this compared to what it could have been had they put some market research into it. Theres a reason so many guys get CTRs and just trash the stock from the start.

I mean fuck you could get a defacto in a bravo for this price point.
 
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You guys keep saying the barrel should be threaded but the pic seems to show a thread protector. Website says the rifles are threaded 5/8x24. Am I missing something?
 
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IDK what folks are whining about. If you want plastic bucket with bedding block you can buy Bravo and be happy with it. For those who were looking at McMillan stocks this should be interesting. Notably there is already TAC A1 so no point to make another chassis.

For those who want to haul gigaton bull barrel, there's Varmint. The idea has clearly been to offer a precision shooting capable rifle that can do hunting as well as precision so the semi weight barrel makes lot of sense. Calling it UPR might be a bit of a stretch though.. maybe should've made it stand for universal precision rifle.
 
Tikka t3x stocks aren’t garbage, they are cheap functional plastic stocks. Every tikka I’ve owned (dozen or so) has shot well in the factory handle. For hunting or casual use no need to change the stock other than for aesthetics or personal preference. I don’t love plastic stocks, but popular aftermarket stuff like KRG bravo is largely/partially composed of polymer (plastic?) as well so..

This new tikka UPR looks interesting, seems like it is intended to compete with some of Bergaras stuff. If that stock is carbon/fiber and ends up retail priced right, they may sell. If they’re $1500 I’d much rather pair a CTR barreled action with a McM/manners/KRG stock of my choosing

Whether you want one of these or not (I don’t) they’ll probably sell..
 
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Tikka t3x stocks aren’t garbage, they are cheap functional plastic stocks. Every tikka I’ve owned (dozen or so) has shot well in the factory handle. For hunting or casual use no need to change the stock other than for aesthetics or personal preference. I don’t love plastic stocks, but popular aftermarket stuff like KRG bravo is largely/partially composed of polymer (plastic?) as well so..

This new tikka UPR looks interesting, seems like it is intended to compete with some of Bergaras stuff. If that stock is carbon/fiber and ends up retail priced right, they may sell. If they’re $1500 I’d much rather pair a CTR barreled action with a McM/manners/KRG stock of my choosing

Whether you want one of these or not (I don’t) they’ll probably sell..
Considering the prices in Finland, basic T3x CTR retails 1250€, UPR 1790€ and KRG Bravo 599€, I'd say this will become quite popular among those who don't want to dive into upgrades out of the box. For reference TAC A1 at local store is 2090€ so expect $300 less than A1.
 
You guys keep saying the barrel should be threaded but the pic seems to show a thread protector. Website says the rifles are threaded 5/8x24. Am I missing something?

The heavy barrels on the Varmint rifles are not threaded. My point was that they should have used the barrel that they already have on the Varmint and threaded it for the UPR.

Bob
 
The heavy barrels on the Varmint rifles are not threaded. My point was that they should have used the barrel that they already have on the Varmint and threaded it for the UPR.

Bob
Gotcha. Agreed.
 
Good point of clarification. When I said "heavy" Im leaning towards my paper punching hobbies where a pound is pretty heavy. The heavier stages are all usual rifle pull weights, not a plastic 9lb glock trigger or anything ridiculous.

To elaborate on the set triggers, I had one on a CZ 550 and it could be adjusted down to around 8 ounces, but when pulled, there was such a long trigger movement that it seemed to jerk the rifle. I originally liked the lighter weight of it but I found that my paper groups were always tighter when I did not engage the set feature, even though the pull was around three pounds. I decided to replace mine with a Timney when I had it rebarreled. Not sure if Tikka's set triggers are better than the ones found on CZ's, but i would choose the standard trigger version if given the choice.
 
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That rifle is a CTR with a new stock.
I can handle one of these with my own hands in April, i can send you some shots, if you want then.
Im not that much heat about this rifle, i would toss that stock of and get KRG anyways :D
But i can say that Sako has announce a new rifle in next month.
All i can tell you is the name, i have seen the photo of it, and it is looking quite nice.
Not a TRG type, alloy chassis rifle, but a precision rifle shooting one.
It has a name and it is Sako S20.
 
That rifle is a CTR with a new stock.
I can handle one of these with my own hands in April, i can send you some shots, if you want then.
Im not that much heat about this rifle, i would toss that stock of and get KRG anyways :D
But i can say that Sako has announce a new rifle in next month.
All i can tell you is the name, i have seen the photo of it, and it is looking quite nice. Not a TRG type, alloy chassis rifle, but a precision rifle shooting one.
It has a name and it is Sako S20.
I’m curious to check the UPR stock out. It seems to be influenced by the trg. But April in Finland means June?august? in the US, who knows with Beretta.
 
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I like it that Tikka is moving forward and improving what is already an excellent product. Tikka is kicking goals worldwide!
 
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I'm interested in this gun but I wonder about the stock's barrel channel being wide enough to fit something like a proof prefit barrel eventually.

Also, at $1498 at Eurooptic, the stainless steel version is just $200 less than a Sako S20 precision, which has an improved trigger and safety mechanism, cerakoting, more adaptable and feature rich chassis, new action with three lug bolt and slightly less same weight. The Sako seems a better deal assuming there will be aftermarket support for pre-fit barrels, etc, down the line.

Unless you are in love with the particular stock on the UPR (granted it looks pretty nice and solid in videos), I would personally go either upmarket slightly for the Sako or just CTR plus aftermarket chassis.
 
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I looked at maybe buying one of these for long range or PRS. But went with the tac 1. This would probably be a hit if they would just drop the tac 1 package in it. To much left off of it. And if you don’t like the stock after you get it, you really in the hole
 
I'm interested in this gun but I wonder about the stock's barrel channel being wide enough to fit something like a proof prefit barrel eventually.

Also, at $1498 at Eurooptic, the stainless steel version is just $200 less than a Sako S20 precision, which has an improved trigger and safety mechanism, cerakoting, more adaptable and feature rich chassis, new action with three lug bolt and slightly less same weight. The Sako seems a better deal assuming there will be aftermarket support for pre-fit barrels, etc, down the line.

Unless you are in love with the particular stock on the UPR (granted it looks pretty nice and solid in videos), I would personally go either upmarket slightly for the Sako or just CTR plus aftermarket chassis.
Barrel channels are easy to open at home. Composite stocks like manners, mcmillans, and grayboe is very easy. Plastic is a little tougher.
 
What's your preferred method?
I used heavy grit sand paper wrapped around deep sockets. I used a socket that is sized slightly larger than the barrel shank and worked my way down smaller to follow the barrel contour. My first manners went from a ctr contour to a medium palma and looked professionally. I was surprised how good it turned out. Take your time, test fit often, and it is easy.
 
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I used heavy grit sand paper wrapped around deep sockets. I used a socket that is sized slightly larger than the barrel shank and worked my way down smaller to follow the barrel contour. My first manners went from a ctr contour to a medium palma and looked professionally. I was surprised how good it turned out. Take your time, test fit often, and it is easy.

Any tricks to keeping the channel straight and evenly spaced around the barrel?