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Tips for 300wm reloading

bobo

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 1, 2012
241
2
Northeast, Mississippi
I am about to start reloadin for my 300. I have some hornady, black hills and regular winchester brass. Otherwise, i have nothing. Leanin heavily towards beginning with 208 amax and h1000. Shooting a rem 700 5r with badger fte brake. Shooting to 1200.

Where and how does the belt come into play? Wat are the best dies to use n my rock chucker supreme? Am i dreaming this or have i read that you can make these headspace off of the shoulder rather than the belt?

Any other tips, equip, supplies or otherwise ?
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

The belt serves no purpose after brass is fire formed to your chamber. The fired brass should be sized to space off the shoulder, otherwise brass life will be very short and accuracy will be less than that of properly sized brass. H1000 w/ 190gr+ bullets is a great combo IMHO. Not required, but I like Mag primers with it; just keep in mind that some manuals (like Lyman) developed their data w/ standard primers.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

sorry but i am a newb on reloading. how specifically do you size the once fired brass to space off the shoulder? does that require a special die, like a neck sizing die only or something? if so, which do you recommend?
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MtnCreek</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The belt serves no purpose after brass is fire formed to your chamber. </div></div>

Sorry but you are incorrect. Belted cases headspace off the belt not shoulder. After your brass is fire formed to that rifle you only want to bump the shoulder back a slight bit to reduce working the brass, like you said to extend brass life. But it is STILL headspacing on the belt.

I too have a 700 5r. I didn't try H1000 but I use 72 grains of Reloader 22 under 208 amax's for sub moa groups. I use standard RCBS FL resizing dies. Don't over complicate things. Just get started shooting your reloaded rounds and you'll find that alot of the fancy stuff is all hype.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

usein an A-max and H1000 start at 74gn and work up.I would even put them in the lands for this is what I am doing for my 300wm in a 5R.or just back off say .010 from your rifels O.A.L.

some will say different but I all so use the Lee collet die for 3 of my firings then I FL size after the 4th along with anealing the necks.so fare I have got 8 firings on Remington brass.the necks are still good but the primer pockets a little loose.

bumping the shoulder back without a gauge is a feeling thing.thats if you don't have a gauge to cheack with.for me I just pull the firing pin out of the bolt.then after I'v set the FL die up for a first try I run a case in.( for me I turn the FL die in to just touch the case holder for a first try )after cleaning off the sizing wax I try the sized case in the chamber with the bolt.( firing pin removed )if the bolt doesn't fall or closes on its on then you will need to run the case in again.but only after you turn the die in a little.keep doing this till the bolt falls on its on or just will.for me I like to see the bolt fall almost all the way.when it does I go on and resize all my brass.( the die is set )

so fare I have yet the need for the full body collet die some will say to get.I will add that my load isn't a heavy/hot load.so this may be the reason for me not needing it.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry but you are incorrect. Belted cases headspace off the belt not shoulder. After your brass is fire formed to that rifle you only want to bump the shoulder back a slight bit to reduce working the brass, like you said to extend brass life. But it is STILL headspacing on the belt.</div></div>

I disagree. When I load a factory 300wm in the chamber, the bolt closes without resistance. After firing, 60k+ psi swells the case and when loaded without bumping the shoulder back, will have resistance when closing the bolt. The case now fits tighter from shoulder to bolt face than belt to bolt face. If the shoulder is pushed back just enough to allow a snug fit between shoulder/bolt, it’s now spacing off the shoulder.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

It usually takes me a few reloadings before I need to bump back the shoulders to allow the bolt to close easily.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

According to Hornady reloading manual, 8th edition, page 66, "belted cases headspace on the front edge of the belt."
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

I load a lot of different cartridges on my rock Chucker & for what ever reasons, the 300 WM gave me the most problems. Here were the two most common. A bulge in the brass above the belt after a couple of firings & loose neck tension. I solved both of those by going with RCBS Gold Medal FL bushing dies. Redding "S" dies are great also. I also added a Wilson gage for belted catridges to the mix. The Hornady reloading manual, 8th edition, page 66 states that "belted cases headspace on the front edge of the belt."
Next, I use 76 gr. of RL-22 & Hornady 180 gr. SST's. Finally, once you really want to experiment, measure OAL for your rifle. You'll find you can probably exceed published OAL lengths & even magazine lengths to get more accuracy. I think most folks just make sure their rounds will just fit in the mag & go with that.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

i have Lapua 300wm brass with 15+ reloads on them:

neck size only (if you can), the more sizing you do the more chance of case head separation. always check overall length and trim when needed.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

it only headspaces off the belt for the first firing.after that its off the shoulder for the most part.reason why because after the first firing the case has then been blown out to the chambers specs.so after the first firing you can then headspace off the shoulder.if one was to keep resizing the brass to headspace off the belt they would soon find out what head separation was all about.

for me I neck size as much as I can ( mostly about 3-4 firings ) then FL resize after annealing the necks.have yet had a reason to buy one of the body collet does.for some reason I haven't had a case to bulge like others say they do.
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pat M</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have Lapua 300wm brass with 15+ reloads on them:

neck size only (if you can), the more sizing you do the more chance of case head separation. always check overall length and trim when needed. </div></div>

Where did you find Lapua brass in 300wm??? I've been looking everywhere and can't find any.........
 
Re: Tips for 300wm reloading

and you want they din't make it any more.but if your lucky then you can get it.its just that some one has to put it up for sale these days.