• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

To full length or neck size, much difference if any?

PotatoeTactical

Private
Minuteman
Feb 20, 2024
25
19
24
Southern Idaho
Getting dies for my Sako TRG 338 Lapua. Stuck between Redding S neck dies and full length dies (currently have RCBS FL die set but wanting better) curious what would be a better semi-off the shelf option? Maybe piece-meal a Set together?

Some say its fud to just neck size, its inconsistent, etc. “Full length ill just work harden or over work brass” from what I have been able to gather.

People who run both or either, mind shining some light? Is either really different or one more worthwhile? Saving brass, getting more consistent measurements and tension, etc

I already have bump gauges, Area 419 and redding comp shell holders, and know I can just bring up my FL sizer to act as an impromptu neck sizer and just FL to bump the shoulder back every 2-4 firings.

Have had great results with both styles of dies from .222 Rem to 340Wthby and 30-378 and curious if there really is a correct choice? Wanting insight from people who’re way more knowledgeable and up to date with “proper” reloading than what I am used to.
 
Another option would be to get a custom full length sizing due based on one of your fired cases. A properly set full length die for custom to your chamber, will not overwork your brass, especially if you anneal.

The issue with neck sizing that you are already aware of you is the need to full length size after a few firings, which will introduce inconsistency.

Now the problem is that custom dies are not cheap, and are not an off the shelf option. In your case with the price of 338 Lapua brass it may be worth it.
 
You must fl size magnum cartridges. The cases grow more than non magnum and you will have to full size every other firing which begs the question why would you neck size?

Skip the neck size and fl only - that’s what everyone with common sense and magnums are doing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alabusa
Eric Corina and other places have full length sizing dies that that have interchangeable bushings. Best of both worlds. Plus the EC die allows you to adjust shoulder bump in .001" increments by just turning the mirco dial. So easy.

Do you get a true .001" every time you dial ?
 
EC currently do not offer one in 338 Lapua, unless I want to go through with a custom die.

Have seen Whidden click adjustable FL bushing dies, best of both worlds? Any thoughts on those? Gimmicky adjustments/features?

Thank you,
PT
 
Just food for thought.... not the question you asked... keep or pitch....
Sako TRG 338LM is a nice rig, but if you are just starting out in bottleneck reloading you certainly jumped in with both feet.....
I would suggest getting with the best club/range that might offer an advanced reloading mentor.
Getting a live demo of several different brass prep techniques will save you from lots of wasted time and frustrations.
YMMV
 
Getting dies for my Sako TRG 338 Lapua. Stuck between Redding S neck dies and full length dies (currently have RCBS FL die set but wanting better) curious what would be a better semi-off the shelf option? Maybe piece-meal a Set together?

Some say its fud to just neck size, its inconsistent, etc. “Full length ill just work harden or over work brass” from what I have been able to gather.

People who run both or either, mind shining some light? Is either really different or one more worthwhile? Saving brass, getting more consistent measurements and tension, etc

I already have bump gauges, Area 419 and redding comp shell holders, and know I can just bring up my FL sizer to act as an impromptu neck sizer and just FL to bump the shoulder back every 2-4 firings.

Have had great results with both styles of dies from .222 Rem to 340Wthby and 30-378 and curious if there really is a correct choice? Wanting insight from people who’re way more knowledgeable and up to date with “proper” reloading than what I am used to.
I do both neck sizing and FL sizing for my .308 RPR and I have not seen any benefit one way or the other in terms of performance. When I neck size, I also use a die to bump the shoulder back to maintain consistency . . . so I'm not really neck sizing "only". My neck sizing tends to help extend the life of the cases and speed up loading, not having to clean off case lube.

If I were loading for a semi-auto, I'd be FL sizing to avoided issues with the cartridge being chambered, which can easily be an issue with neck sizing.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: RegionRat and Doom
I neck sized (308 and 223) for a long time and never had an issue. Seldom had to FLS due to hard bolt closure. Lately I have FLS and I see little if any difference. I did do a test and found that my neck sized brass ran about 30 fps faster with everything else being equal. What I will say is that my brass that was neck sized measured almost identical from case to case. Both shot to same POI at 100 yds.
.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RegionRat
full length size bumping should .002 is the way to go. I get 6-8 firing on my .300wm brass doing this.

Nice setup your working with. I too shoot a Sako but mine is a M995.